November  S,  1898, 
441 
JOURNAL  OB^  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
ia  this  way  are  certain  deatii  to  all  active  vegetable  as  well  as  animal 
life,  and  they  must  only  be  used  in  the  vinery  when  the  Vines  are  quite 
dormant,  or  as  near  that  condition  as  they  generally  are  in  the  month 
of  January  after  pruning.  Another  plan  of  producing  sulphur  fnmes 
is  to  slake  some  good  lime  and  sprinkle  sulphur  over  it  as  soon  as  it 
-commences  to  slake. 
Caebolic  Acid. 
To  return  to  the  art  of  killing  red  spider  in  the  summer  without 
injury  to  plant  life,  I  may  point  out  that  there  are  other  possible  agents 
than  sulphur  for  the  purpose,  as  the  following  extract  from  my  memo¬ 
randums  will  show — “  1^  oz  carbolic  acid.  Calvert’s  No.  5,  vaporised  in 
a  space  of  2000  cubic  feet,  killed  most  of  the  red  spider  on  Arums  without 
injury  to  the  plants,  but  slightly  Injured  French  Beans  and  young 
Tomatoes.”  In  a  second  experiment  2  ozs.  proved  too  strong  for 
Chrysanthemums  in  flower,  though  Arums  were  scarcely  injured.  The 
carbolic  acid  was  placed  in  two  large-sized  “  XL  All  ”  vaporisers,  with 
as  much  water  as  the  cups  would  hold,  and  the  lamps  placed  under  in 
the  usual  way.  I  think  I  have  tried  all  fumigants  and  vapourisers 
^idvertised  for  killing  insects,  but  although  some  of  them  are  perfect 
instruments  for  the  destruction  of  fly  and  thrips,  I  have  not  found  any 
cf  them  anything  like  effective  against  red  spider. — Wm.  Tayloe. 
LAUREL,  MUSTARD,  AND  PETROLEUM  AS 
INSECTICIDES. 
“  A  Single-handed  Cakdener”  (page  427)  seems  to  be  progressing, 
so  we  will  leave  the  hot-water  and  lime  if  his  “  master  ”  and  “  Mary  ” 
•will  “not  mind.”  He  seems  to  have  felt  the  suggestion  of  cribbing 
lather  keenly,  and  creditably  admits  it  is  not  right  to  use  information 
furnished  by  others  without  acknowledgement ;  he  then  turns  the  tables 
on  me  (not  bad  for  a  cheese  digger)  for  “  cribbing  ”  the  mustard  analysis, 
which  I  forgot  to  say  was  from  Dr.  Wolff, 
This  “Single-handed  Gardener  ”  &  Co.  ask  if  I  have  boiled  any 
Laurels  ?  I  have  not,  but  have  found  Laurels  bruised  and  spread  thickly 
cn  the  floor  of  the  house  in  the  evening,  and  shut  up  close,  make  havoc 
cf  thrips  and  red  spider  during  the  night.  Also  I  have  found  that  by 
bruising  fresh  Laurel  leaves,  filling  a  tub  with  them,  then  pouring  on 
boiling  water  so  as  to  cover  the  lot,  putting  on  the  lid,  and  leaviner  till 
morning,  that  excellent  tea  was  made,  and  found  “  splendid  stuff  for 
green  fly  and  all  that  tribe.”  How  eelworm  would  like  it  I  do  not 
know.  There  is  something  in  Laurel  leaves  that  ought  to  do  for  them — 
namely,  cyanogen  (CjN^),  which  is  a  normal  ingredient  of  mustard. 
When  water  is  added  to  raw  ground  mustard,  the  infinitesimal  cyanogen 
contained  unites  with  the  hydrogen  of  the  water  and  forms  the  deadly 
poison  liydroGyanic  or  prussic  acid.  If  mustard  is  boiled  the  cyanogen 
will  be  decomposed,  its  nitrogen  being  converted  into  ammonia.  This 
ammonia  makes  slugs  “sneeze,”  and  1  oz.  of  ammonia  to  a  gallon 
of  water  is  the  best  slugicide  I  know ;  also  I  have  an  idea,  as  before 
stated  in  the  Journal  of  Jlorticulture,  that  it  will  prove  an  effective 
celwormicide.  “  A  Single-handed  Gardener  ”  has  thus  two  strings  to  his 
bow,  the  cyanogen  if  he  uses  cold  or  warm  water,  and  ammonia  if  he 
boils  the  mustard  or  the  Laurel  leaves.  Both  kill  soil  pests,  the  difficulty 
being  to  get  the  decoctions  into  the  tissues  where  the  eelworms  are 
located.  If  the  eel  worms  were  free  the  case  would  be  different.  This 
Norfolk  digger  appears  to  know  more  than  he  has  a  mind  to  turn  up 
with  his  wonderful  spade,  hence  says  nothing  about  the  mustard  having 
long  been  used  for  worms  in  flower  pots — the  teaspoonful  to  a  pint  of 
warm  water  cure.  This  he  can  work  out  to  any  extent,  and  blister 
eelworms  to  his  heart’s  content  if  he  can  reach  them. 
Petroleum  is  both  a  fungicide  and  an  insecticide.  Raw,  it  is  more  or 
less  injurious  to  vegetation.  To  make  it  harmless  to  useful  crops,  not 
including  the  Mushroom  family,  take  softsoap,  IJ  lb. ;  petroleum,  J  pint ; 
soft  water,  4J  gallons.  Place  the  softsoap  in  an  iron  pan  with  a  gallon 
of  the  water,  dissolve  by  heating  to  boiling  and  stirring,  then  remove 
from  the  fire  for  safety,  and  pour  in  the  petroleum,  stirring  briskly 
till  thoroughly  amalgamated.  Add  the  remainder  of  the  water  hot, 
and  when  cooled  to  120°-130°  apply  by  means  of  a  spraying  apparatus 
to  every  part  of  the  plants  infested  with  insects  or  epiphytic  fungi.  If 
grubs  or  worms  attack  the  roots  of  plants,  apply  the  solution  to  the  soil 
at  a  temperature  of  90°-100°  with  a  rose  watering  can  when  the  soil  is 
moderately  moist,  such  as  when  needing  a  supply  of  water,  a  gallon 
sufficing  for  a  square  yard.  Repeat  -'once  or  twice,  alternately  with 
watering  in  the  usual  way.  If  wanted  for  disinfecting  soil  use  of 
double  strength,  and  moisten  the  soil  evenly  through. 
Cyanogen  again.  Attend  to  the  Laurel  leaves,  brew  well  and  strong, 
or  use  ammoniacal  liquor  from  gasworks.  It  is  a  variable  article  I 
admit,  so  also  is  that  of  the  Laurel  leaves,  but  both  are  generally  safe. 
Of  the  gas  liquor  take  one  part,  and  of  soft  water — not  water  containing 
much  lime — five  parts  ;  mix  and  apply  at  once,  having  the  soil  in 
proper  condition,  and  supply  a  gallon  per  square  yard  through  a 
moderately  fine  rose.  This  strength  will  not,  as  a  rule,  hurt  Cucumbers, 
but  it  is  always  advisable  to  try  the  solution  on  a  small  scale  before 
using  it  extensively.  Repeat,  alternately  with  the  watering,  once  or 
twice.  Tomatoes  will  usually  stand  watering  with  a  solution  of  one 
part  gas  liquor  and  three  or  four  parts  water.  This  preparation  is  for 
destroying  eelworm,  root  mites,  and  grubs,  while  its  value  as  a  manure 
is  worth  the  cost  of  the  article.  Soluble  petroleum  has  some  value  in 
that  respect,  but  it  is  not  material.  If  gas  liquor  is  used  for  disinfecting 
soil,  employ  the  liquor  in  the  proportion  of  one  part  to  two  parts  of  soft 
water,  moistening  the  soil  evenly  through,  and  let  it  remain  a  month  or 
six  weeks,  then  mix  through  it  2|  per  cent,  of  air-slaked  best  chalk 
lime,  and  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days  it  is  ready  for  use.  The 
gas  liquor  must  not  be  used  over  the  foliage  unless  reduced  considerably 
in  strength,  for  plants  are  much  more  tender  at  the  head  than  at  the 
roots, 
’  Now,  Mr.  “  S.  H.  G. by  way  of  warding  off  the  assegai,  let  me  suggest 
how  you  may  obtain  a  good  cup  of  tea  for  “  Mary  ”  without,  like  most 
people,  going  to  Assam,  Ceylon,  Canton,  and  Hoag  Kong  for  leaves, 
when  they  might,  if  they  only  knew  it,  and  would  prefer  home  produce 
to  foreign,  brew  better  and  more  sustaining  tea  from  the  British  Holly. 
You  are  welcome  to  the  “  Laurels.”— -G.  Abbey. 
NOTES  ON  NEW  DAHLIAS. 
The  following  notes  taken  from  the  plants  growing  in  an  open  field 
in  Scotland  may  be  of  use  to  those  who  do  not  care  to  purchase  expensive 
varieties  the  first  year  they  are  sent  out.  The  weather  during  the  planting 
season  and  throughout  June  was  extremely  dry,  then  from  the  middle 
of  July  cold  wet  weather  has  prevailed,  and  although  the  Dahlias  are 
still  in  bloom  many  of  the  Cactus  varieties  are  now  semi-double.  I 
notice  a  great  improvement  in  the  habit  of  the  latter  type.  Nearly  all 
the  new  varieties  have  long  flower  stalks,  so  that  the  plants  make  fine 
objects  for  decoration  in  the  garden.  In  the  older  sorts  this  good  quality 
was  absent.  Of  the  sorts  noted  below  from  five  to  twenty  plants  of  each 
were  planted,  so  that  the  test  is  a  good  one. 
Show  and  Fancy  Varieties. 
The  standard  of  the  double  Dahlia  is  at  a  very  high  mark  at  present, 
and  raisers  must  show  something  very  good  now  to  beat  the  older  sorts. 
Of  this  season’s  introductions  the  following  are  very  good  indeed,  and 
may  be  added  to  any  first-class  collection  : — 
Yellow  Gem. — Deep  yellow,  edged  with  red.  A  fine  flower,  good 
centre  :  attains  considerable  size  ;  height  about  3  feet. 
Yellow  Globe, — A  deep  yellow.  A  fine  globular  flower,  very  deep 
good  centre  ;  one  of  the  best  yellows  ;  height  3  feet. 
Mr.  J.  Chamberlain. — Deep  maroon.  A  dwarf  grower  ;  good  darks 
are  scarce,  so  this  one  is  very  welcome. 
Florence  tranter. — Blush  white  edged  with  purple.  Of  fine  form, 
and  dwarf  habit. 
The  Reverend. — After  the  style  and  colour  of  Mrs.  Stancombe,  but 
larger,  and  deeper  in  colour.  Splendid  form,  good  every  way  ;  height 
3  feet. 
Cactus  Dahlias. 
Cactus  Dahlias  now  absorb  most  of  the  public  interest,  and  Dahlia 
specialists  seem  to  devote  most  of  their  energies  to  that  class  and  to  raising 
new  Pompon  varieties,  which  also  are  more  appreciated  than  formerly. 
Mns.  Wilson  Noble. — Salmon  pink,  of  true  Cactus  form.  Bears  the 
flowers  well  above  the  foliage.  Certainly  one  of  the  best ;  3|  feet  high. 
Mrs.  Montejiore. — Glowing  crimson.  A  magnificent  colour,  but  is 
not  of  quite  the  true  Cactus  form.  Fine  habit ;  4  feet  high  ;  moderately 
free  flowering. 
Mrs.  Gordon  Sloane. — Terra  cotta,  shaded  with  pink.  Fine  habit, 
throws  the  flowers  well  above  the  foliage  ;  is  of  true  Cactus  form,  and 
one  of  the  best  introductions  of  1896  ;  4  feet  high. 
Mrs.  Leopold  Seymour. — Golden  yellow,  shading  to  pink.  Although 
this  obtained  a  certificate  recently,  it  is  of  very  little  use  here.  It  has 
the  merit  of  floweringr  on  long  stems. 
Mrs.  Broughton  Stirling, — Cerise,  very  bright.  The  petals  are  long 
and  narrow,  and  flowers  are  produced  freely  and  well  displayed  ;  about 
4  feet  high.  A  fine  variety, 
Arthur  Crimson  purple.  Fine  bushy  habit;  produces  its 
flowers  on  long  stalks,  but  is  not  a  true  Cactus  variety.  Very  useful  for 
cutting  purposes. 
Fusilier. — Coral  pink,  of  true  Cactus  shape.  Long  flower  stalks  ; 
very  free  flowering.  This  has  proved  the  best  Cactus  variety  I  have  yet 
grown.  Between  3  and  4  feet  high. 
Ccesar, — Red  ;  though  described  by  the  raisers  as  without  shading, 
with  me  it  has  a  distinct  crimson  stripe  down  each  petal,  has  short 
flower  stems,  and  is  first-rate  ;  4  feet. 
Beatrice  Martin, — Lighter  in  colour  than  the  old  favourite  Asia.  It 
is  not  a  Cactus,  and  persistently  came  semi-double  all  the  season. 
J.  E.  Frewer, — Certificated  as  Grenadier,  and  it  was  a  great  mistake 
to  change  the  name.  Vermilion  in  colour  ;  very  double ;  the  flowers 
are  produced  in  profusion.  Certainly  one  of  the  best  Cactus  yet  raised  ; 
scarcely  3  feet  high.  Fine  sturdy  habit. 
Royal  George. — A  very  peculiar  and  distinct  colour,  pink  with  a 
purple  tinge.  The  flower  stalks  are  shoit,  but  the  flowers  are  of  the 
best  possible  shape.  No  doubt  with  judicious  thinning  the  flower  stalks 
can  be  lengthened  ;  3  feet  high,  and  very  bushy. 
Miss  Jane  Basham. — Rather  stiff  flat  flowers.  Not  a  very  good 
Cactus,  but  the  stems  are  stiff  and  long.  The  colour  is  brick  red,  lighter 
at  the  base  of  petals.  The  habit  is  good  ;  3^  feet  high. 
Miis  Annie  Jones. — Bright  scarlet.  The  flowers  are  something  like 
Gloriosa  in  shape  but  much  smaller;  The  stems  are  long  and  the  flowers 
are  borne  well  above  the  foliage.  Of  good  Cactus  shape  and  fine  habit ; 
4  feet. 
Mits  Annie  Nightingale. — This  is  not  a  true  Cactus,  but  the  colour 
is  so  unusual  as  to  make  it  a  most  desirable  variety.  The  base  of  the. 
