November  5,  1896. 
4i5 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
writing,  I  hope  every  young  gardener  has  derived  as  much  benefit  from 
your  paper  as  I  have. — A  Journeyman. 
Not  long  ago  a  story  was  published  of  the  Duke  of  Norfolk  being 
ordered  off  the  grass  in  his  own  park.  Major  Mostyn,  the  Duke’s 
steward,  states  that  it  was  he  who  ordered  boards  to  be  put  up  with  the 
words  “  Keep  off  the  grass,”  and  was  not  a  little  surprised  on  the  day  of 
the  excursion  to  find  the  Duke  going  round  and  removing  all  the 
boards  he  could  reach.  When  asked  his  reason  the  Duke  replied, 
“  Why,  many  of  the  old  ladies  have  corns,  and  I’m  sure  would  sooner 
walk  on  the  grass  than  on  the  footpath.”  Owing  to  the  insertion  of  the 
original  story  in  the  Journal  I  think  the  sequel  should  appear  also. — 
J.  F.  1). 
[This  and  other  young  gardeners  have  sent  creditable  and  useful 
articles  for  the  ”  Domain,”  but  they  will  keep  without  losing  value  till  a 
future  issue,  which  much  Chrysanthemum  matter  will  not.] 
FRITILLARIA  BREVICAULIS. 
This  Fritillaria  is  a  dwarf -growing  plant,  rarely  exceeding  a  height 
of  9  inches.  The  flowers,  as  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  illustration 
81),  are  rather  small,  and  produced  singly  as  well  as  in  pairs. 
They  are  of  a  tawny  colour,  and  although  not  particularly  attractive, 
•the  species  is  well  worth  growing.  Like  other  choice  Fritillarias,  the 
FIG.  81.— FEITILLAHIA  BREVICAULIS. 
species  under  notice  requires  a  sunny  and  sheltered  position,  a  deep 
eandy  loam  suiting  it  admirably.  It  can  also  be  grown  in  pots  for 
the  embellishment  of  the  greenhouse  in'spring. 
GARDENERS’  CHARITABLE  AND  PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. — Secretary, 
Mr,  G.  J.  Ingram,  60,  Parliament  Street,  London,  W.C. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society. — 
Secretary,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balbam,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  -Secretary ,  Mr.  A.  F.  Barron, 
'Tne  Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fond,  Chi8wlck,^W. 
O  WOKK-FoutreWEEK..  ' 
titi 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Fruit  Trees. — Where  practicable  planting  operations 
may  now  be  carried  out.  The  choicest  trees  should  be  planted  first, 
especially  those  intended  for  walls,  consisting  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  and 
Nectarines.  Though  leaves  are  falling  quickly,  and  wood  growth  has 
ceased,  yet  root  action  still  continues,  because  upon  the  whole  the 
temperature  of  the  soil  is  favourable  to  it.  The  advantages  accruing 
from  early  planting  are  based  upon  the  tendency  shown  by  trees  at  this 
season  to  form  new  root  fibres,  and  they  will  do  so  in  a  suitable  soil 
medium  which  combines  warmth  and  moisture  in  proper  proportions 
during  the  remainder  of  autumn. 
The  Soil. — Thorough  preparation  of  the  ground,  preferably  some 
time  previous  to  planting,  is  necessary.  All  soils  are  best  for  being 
deeply  dug,  though  it  is  not  essential  that  the  trees  be  planted  deeply, 
A  good  depth  of  soil  ensures  good  drainage  and  an  equable  distribution 
of  moisture  over  a  longer  period  than  shallow  prepared  ground  could  do. 
In  wet  seasons  superfluous  water  is  carried  beyond  the  immediate  reach 
of  the  roots,  providing  the  subsoil  is  favourable  to  its  passing  freely 
away.  In  dry  seasons  moisture  from  below  is  available  to  replace  that 
lost  by  evaporation  from  the  surface.  Improvement  is  also  effected  by 
the  thorough  mixture  of  the  surface  soil  and  subsoil  when  that  is 
desirable,  but  it  is  not  always  so.  When  the  latter  is  poor  it  should  not 
be  brought  to  the  top,  but  broken  up,  manured,  and  allowed  to  remain 
where  it  is,  treating  the  upper  layer  the  same,  adding,  however,  little  or 
no  manure  to  it.  If  well  prepared  to  the  depth  of  2  feet  this  will  be 
ample  for  medium  and  stiff  soils  light  and  dry  ground  requiring  deeper 
stirring.  The  addition  of  good  loam  of  a  clayey  or  calcareous  character 
improves  light  soils  and  those  required  to  grow  stone  fruits,  lime  scraps, 
chalk  or  marl  also  being  good  when  the  soil  is  deficient  in  calcareous 
matter.  Where  the  soil  may  not  be  in  a  suitable  condition  for  planting 
at  present  owing  to  the  heavy  rainfall  it  would  be  best  to  defer  the  work 
until  the  surface  dries. 
Treatment  of  the  Ttootn  before  Plant  ng. — It  is  very  important  that 
the  roots  of  fruit  trees  about  to  be  planted  are  not  exposed  to  the  drying 
influences  of  air  and  sun.  They  ought  to  be  kept  covered  from  the  time 
of  lifting  to  the  time  of  planting,  and  when  received  from  nurseries  laid-in 
1  in  damp  soil.  Should  they  by  mischance  become  dry  soak  them  well  in 
j  water  before  planting.  In  no  case  ought  the  planting  to  be  hurriedly 
i  performed,  nor  the  pruning  of  the  roots  neglected,  whereby  bruised  and 
I  broken  ends  are  left  instead  of  being  smoothly  cut  in  to  firm  and  healthy 
I  parts.  This  assists  largely  in  the  formation  of  fresh  fibres,  and  prevents 
i  the  origination  of  suckers,  which  in  some  trees — for  instance.  Plums — 
!  are  produced  from  injured  roots. 
Planting.— The  excavations  for  the  reception  of  the  roots  must  not 
be  deep,  but  ought  to  be  of  sufficient  width,  so  that  the  roots  can  be  laid 
out  in  them  to  their  full  extent  without  twisting  or  coiling.  The  proper 
depth  for  the  trees  may  be  ascertained  by  noting  the  eartn  marks  on  the 
!  stems,  which  should  not  be  buried  lower  than  before.  In  planting 
arrange  the  roots  horizontally,  spreading  them  as  much  as  possible  in 
layers,  which  secure  in  position  by  light  coverings  of  prepared  compost, 
carefully  sprinkled  over  them  outwards  from  the  stem,  so  as  not  to 
displace  or  alter  the  direction  of  the  fibres.  Continue  this  until  all  are 
finally  disposed  of,  the  upper  layer  of  roots  being  not  more  than  3  or 
4  inches  below  the  surface.  Planted  thus  the  trees  have  every  chance  of 
doing  well  and  starting  into  growth  freely.  The  soil  used  for  sprinkling 
over  the  roots  in  the  first  instance  may  be  of  a  light  fibrous  character, 
mixed  with  a  little  burnt  refuse. 
Staking. — Stake  the  trees  securely  immediately  after  planting,  so  as 
to  prevent  any  possibility  of  damage  by  wind.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
insert  the  supports  previous  to  planting,  which  will  obviate  injury  to 
the  roots  afterwards.  Standards  with  large  heads  may  require  two 
stakes,  one  on  each  side  Some  place  three,  triangular  fashion,  the  feet 
being  set  a  distance  outwards,  their  tops  meeting  with  the  stem  of  the 
tree  between.  Prevent  abrasion  of  the  bark  by  a  layer  of  soft  material 
round  the  stem.  Bind  effectually  with  strong  cord  or  copper  wire. 
The  trees  must  be  well  supported  in  this  way  until  thoroughly 
established.  Trees  against  walls  should  only  be  lightly  fastened  to  give 
opportunity  for  them  to  settle. 
Mulching. — A  dressing  of  short  manure  3  inches  thick  over  the  roots 
after  planting  is  the  best  means  of  protecting  them  from  frost,  and 
maintaining  a  uniform  temperature  and  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Pruning  the  Branches. — ‘Much  depends  on  the  condition  of  the 
roots  as  to  pruning  the  branches.  When  roots  are  few  and  not  fibrous 
branches  must  be  pruned  well  back,  or  there  will  be  an  unequal  balance 
between  the  roots  and  tops.  On  the  other  hand,  roots  being  abundant, 
and  but  few  destroyed  in  lifting,  severe  shortening  is  less  necesrory. 
The  multiplication  of  branches  for  furnishing,  however,  may  necessitate 
closer  shortening  than  would  otherwise  be  required,  in  order  to  obtain 
the  needful  extension  of  strong  wood.  Very  young  trees  require,  as  a 
rule,  close  shortening  to  bold  wood  bads,  in  order  that  sufficient  growth 
may  be  originated  for  furnishing  the  foundations  of  the  desired  shape  of 
tree. 
