477 
^  iTovetobet  li,  189(5.  JOURl^AL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDE  HER. 
t  sufficient  moisture  in  the  usual  luuk  pits  without  recourse  to  syringing, 
if.  but  a  very  arid  atmosphere  must  be  avoided. 
Cucumbers. — Plants  that  have  been  in  bearing  some  time  can  be 
invigorated  by  a  top-dressing  of  turfy  loam  to  which  has  been  added  a 
little  saperphosphate,  and  about  a  sixth  of  “  dust  ”  charcoal,  surfacing 
with  an  inch  thickness  of  sweetened  horse  droppings.  The  latter  must 
not  be  used  fresh,  or  the  foliage  may  be  injured  by  the  ammonia.  Afford 
copious  supplies  of  water,  but  let  the  soil  be  getting  dry  before  any  is 
given,  then  afford  enough  to  moisten  the  bed  through,  using  it  at  the 
same  temperature  as  the  house.  Thin  the  old  exhausted  growths  and 
lay  in  young,  by  which  means  the  plants  will  continue  fruiting  some 
time  longer.  The  autumn  fruiters  are  now  in  full  bearing,  and  must  not 
be  overcropped,  therefore  remove  the  fruit  as  soon  as  it  attains  a  fair 
size,  and  all  deformed  fruit  when  observed.  Examine  the  plants  at  least 
once  a  week  for  the  removal  cf  bad  leaves,  stopping  or  cutting  away 
surplus  growths,  keeping  the  foliage  fairly  thin,  yet  an  even  spread  on 
the  trellis. 
Winter  fruiters  should  be  allowed  to  advance  up  the  trellis  to  the 
extent  of  about  two- thirds  before  stopping  them,  training  the  side 
growths  evenly,  and  not  more  closely  than  to  allow  of  the  foliage  being 
exposed  to  light.  Stop  at  a  few  joints  of  growth,  or  to  one  or  two  leaves 
beyond  the  show  of  fruit,  but  if  the  plants  are  weak  allow  more  extension 
and  crop  lightly  at  first.  Eemove  all  or  most  male  flowers,  and  do 
not  allow  tendrils,  but  remove  them  as  fast  as  they  appear.  Keep  the 
beds  replenished  with  soil,  adding  fresh  and  warmed  as  often  as  the 
roots  appear  at  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks. 
Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  70®,  a  few  degrees  less  in  severe 
weather,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  advancing  to  80°  and  90°  with  sun 
heat.  Admit  a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  whenever  the  weather  is 
favourable,  affording  it,  however,  without  lowering  the  temperature, 
it  being  better  to  allow  the  temperature  to  rise  a  few  degrees  over  the 
ordinary  sun  heat  range  than  admit  air  to  keep  the  temperature  down 
when  the  sun  is  powerful,  and  the  external  air  sharp.  Judicious  ventila¬ 
tion,  however,  is  the  great  essential  in  carrying  off  accumulated  moisture 
and  vitiated  air,  giving  solidity  to  the  growths,  and  enabling  the  plants 
to  tide  over  the  trying  ordeal  of  prolonged  severe  weather,  when  plants 
with  thin-textured  leaves  often  succumb.  The  syringe  will  only  be 
necessary  for  damping  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  after¬ 
noon  in  blight  weather,  which  will  give  the  needful  moisture,  especially 
where  the  evaporation  troughs  are  kept  charged  with  liquid  manure. 
On  bright  afternoons  a  light  bedewing  of  the  plants  will  be  beneficial, 
but  care  must  be  taken  to  practise  it  early  and  not  make  the  foliage 
tender  by  its  too  frequent  recurrence.  All  water  used  for  damping, 
watering,  or  liquid  manure  applied  to  the  roots  must  be  of  the  same 
temperature  as  the  house  or  bed. 
Strawberries  in  Pots.— All  plants  for  early  forcing  should  be 
placed  in  frames,  with  a  view  to  protect  them  from  severe  frost,  heavy 
rains  and  snow ,  Severe  frost  does  the  plant  no  good ,  and  often  harm, 
by  destroying  the  tender  fibrous  roots,  while  heavy  rains  and  snow  often 
cause  the  drainage  to  become  much  choked.  In  the  frames,  and  plunged 
in  ashes  to  the  rims  of  the  pots,  the  plants  are  quite  safe,  only  take  care 
not  to  let  any  become  and  remain  dry  at  the  roots,  to  use  the  lights  only 
when  heavy  rains  prevail,  and  then  with  them  tilted  at  the  teck,  and 
cl  ised  when  snow  or  frost  occurs,  otherwise  drawing  off  the  lights.  If 
protection,  as  that  of  mats,  is  given  in  severe  weather,  the  plants  can  be 
removed  at  any  time  as  required  for  forcing.  One  of  the  commonest  and 
worst  practices  is  to  pile  the  pots,  plant  outward,  in  a  sort  of  half  cone 
against  a  wall,  packing  them  in  sawdust,  leaves,  or  soil,  and  the  con¬ 
sequence  is  they  get  frozen  through,  and  the  roots  injured,  whilst  not 
a  few  suffer  from  drought,  as  they  are  practically  unavailable  for  water¬ 
ing.  A  greater  mistake  is  made  in  placing  the  plants  on  the  borders  of  a 
Peach  house  with  open  ventilators,  where  the  currents  of  air  being 
constant  and  excessive,  provoke  evaporation  that  simply  wastes  the 
energies  of  the  plants,  and  mostly  destroys  the  roots  at  the  sides  of  the 
pots,  It  is  a  far  better  plan  to  stand  the  pots  on  a  foundation  of  ashes 
in  a  sheltered  situation,  and  surround  them  with  ashes  level  with  the 
rim  of  the  pots,  affording  them  a  light  covering  of  straw  or  bracken  in 
severe  weather  j  this  answers  very  well  for  midseason  and  late  forcing 
plants,  they  being  removeable  at  any  time,  and  take  no  harm,  only  if 
frozen  they  must  be  thawed  in  a  house  not  much  above  freezing  point. 
Where  there  is  the  convenience  of  a  Strawberry  house,  and  fruit  is 
required  early — say,  in  late  February  or  early  March — a  batch  of  plants 
may  now  be  introduced,  placing  them  on  shelves  near  the  glass,  and 
only  employing  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost  at  night  and  to  maintain  a 
temperature  of  50°  by  day,  at  and  above  which  ventilate  freely.  The 
plants  forming  this  batch  should  be  the  earliest  matured,  with  well 
formed  crowns  and  of  the  most  approved  early  forcing  varieties,  than 
which  we  have  not  found  better  than  La  Grosse  Sucr^e  and  Vicomtesse 
Hdricart  de  Thury.  The  old  Black  Prince  is  earlier,  but  very  liable  to 
mildew,  which  often  ruins  the  crop. 
Where  there  is  convenience  and  the  plants  are  late,  as  they  mostly 
are  this  year,  owing  to  the  drought  of  summer  and  the  recent  heavy 
rainfalls,  it  is  a  great  aid  in  early  forcing  to  afford  the  plants  the  benefit 
of  a  slight  warmth  at  the  roots  by  making  up  a  bed  of  leaves  about 
2  feet  in  height,  placing^tbe  plants  in  a  frame  or  house  upon  it,  packing 
the  space  between  the  pots  with  damp  leaves.  The  bottom  heat  at  the 
base  of  the  pots  should  be  65°,  the  top  being  kept  cool,  60°  not  being 
exceeded,  and  when  mild  draw  off  the  lights.  This  will  promote  activity 
at  the  roots,  and  the  crowns  will  push  little  or  nothing  ;  yet  the  plants, 
after  a  month  of  this  treatment — the  bed  then  being  cool  or  the  pots 
withdrawn  la  preparation  for  removal  to  a  vinery  just  being  start^— 
will  go  right  away  without  having  the  leaves  drawn  or  the  trusses 
weakened  by  being  placed  direct  from  cool  quarters  in  a  house  almost 
warm  enough  when  started  for  the  Strawberry  when  in  flower.  In  fact, 
plants  with  well  developed  crowns  and  abundant  roots  do  not  always 
eacceed  in  a  vinery  because  they  are  brought  into  flower  too  rapidly  ; 
but  treated  in  the  manner  advised  excellent  fruit  of  La  Grosse  Sucrde 
may  be  had  in  March  from  a  vinery  started  at  the  new  year. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Cabbage. — The  value  of  a  good  supply  of  early  spring  Cabbage 
cannot  well  be  over-estimated.  Every  effort  ought,  therefore,  to  be  made 
to  grow  this  important  crop  so  as  to  render  failure  with  it  wall-nigh 
impossible.  No  dependence  ought  to  be  placed  on  either  a  single  sowing 
or  planting.  This  season  the  earliest  raised  plants  are  more  forward  than 
desirable,  and  those  raised  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  may  perhaps, 
but  not  of  a  certainty,  give  the  best  results.  Plant  out  from  both  sow¬ 
ings  extensively,  and  also  leave  a  goodly  number  of  the  smaller  plants 
in  the  seed  beds  for  putting  out  in  the  spring.  It  should  be  remembered 
that  a  loose,  rich  root  run  is  conducive  to  the  formation  of  coarse 
Cabbages  and  more  outside  leaves  than  hearts,  whereas  neat,  closely 
grown  Cabbage  is  what  most  cooks  prefer.  Plant  on  firm  ground 
freely  manured  for  the  preceding  crop.  Cabbage  forms  a  good  succession 
to  Onions  and  Tomatoes,  and  all  the  preparation  needed  is  to  thoroughly 
clear  the  surface  of  weeds  and  rubbish,  digging  being  uncalled  for  and 
so  much  wasted  labour. 
Celery. — Good  progress  ought  ere  this  to  have  been  made  with  the 
earthing  up  of  the  main  crop  of  Celery,  completing  this  important 
work  before  severe  frosts  intervene.  If  not  first  enclosed  in  strong 
brown  paper  ba.:;dage8  gather  the  outside  leafstalks  well  np  together, 
either  keeping  them  in  that  position  with  the  hand  or  with  the  aid  of 
strips  of  raffia  while  the  soil  is  being  banked  up  around  them,  with  a 
view  to  preventing  soil  from  reaching  the  inner  stalks.  At  the  final 
moulding  finish  off  the  ridge  sharply,  cleanly,  and  smoothly,  so  as  to 
throw  off  as  much  water  as  possible.  The  plants  in  later  rows  ought  to 
be  cleared  of  suckers  and  small  outside  leaves,  and  enough  soil  placed 
about  them  to  keep  the  leafstalks  well  together.  Slugs  are  apt  to 
greatly  disfigure  late  Celery,  and,  on  heavy  soils  especially,  soot  and  lime 
should  be  freely  dusted  along  the  rows  prior  to  moulding  up  each  time. 
Celerlac.— If  kept  clear  of  suckers  the  Turnip-like  roots  of  these 
will  continue  to  increase  in  size  while  mild  weather  lasts.  They  keep 
freshest  where  they  are  growing,  but  are  not  proof  against  severe  frosts. 
Before  the  roots  are  injured  by  the  latter,  either  cover  heavily  with 
leaves,  ashes,  or  soil  only.  A  portion  of  the  crop  may  be  drawn  now,  the 
roots  lightly  trimmed,  the  tops  cut  off,  and  then  be  stored  in  a  heap, 
Turoip  fashion,  ^ith  a  covering  of  straw  and  soil.  Small  quantities  can 
be  kept  in  fine  soil  in  a  cool  shed  or  outhouse. 
Endive. — Showery  weather  has  promoted  a  strong  growth,  and  the 
more  forward  plants  will  need  protection  from  severe  frosts.  Any  fully 
grown  plants  that  are  arranged  in  isolated  or  long  rows  ought  largely  to 
be  lifted  with  a  good  ball  of  soil  about  the  roots,  and  packed  moderately 
closely  together,  either  where  they  cm  b?,  pro  ejted  with  rough  frames  or 
else  in  pits  and  frames.  Replant  firmly  in  rich  moist  soil,  avoid  coddling, 
and  see  that  they  do  not  become  very  dry  at  the  roots.  In  order  to  have 
a  good  supply  of  perfectly  blanched  hearts  withont  having  too  much  at 
one  time,  cover  a  breadth  in  the  frames  or  in  the  open  with  paper  and 
canvas  or  mats,  or  else  tie  them  up  together,  the  outer  leaves  enclosing 
the  hearts,  and  cover  with  inverted  flower  pots,  these  having  their 
drainage  holes  stopped.  Endive  half  grown  may  be  carefully  trans¬ 
planted  to  frames,  giving  them  the  benefit  of  rich  soil  and  good  room, 
and  they  will  then  continue  growing  strongly.  Protect  from  severe 
frosts  only.  Quite  small  plants  may  be  similarly  treated,  and  these  will 
then  attain  to  a  serviceable  size  by  the  spring.  The  Broad-leaved 
Batavian  is  the  best  variety  for  storing. 
Xettuce. — Much  that  has  been  advanced  concerning  Endive  also 
applies  to  late  Lettuce.  A  little  frost  spoils  those  that  are  nearly  or 
quite  fully  grown,  and  they  ought  to  be  covered  by  or  moved  into  rough 
frames.  Tie  them  up  together  before  moving,  and  also  at  other  times  to 
hasteu  blanching.  All  the  Year  Round  and  other  small  close-growing 
Cabbage  Lettuces  will  continue  growing  iu  frames.  If  the  late  sowings 
of  Lettuce  have  failed,  and  slugs  have  been  very  troublesome  during  the 
wet  weather  of  last  month,  sow  more  seed  broadcast  in  shallow  frames  j 
and  if  the  plants  resulting  are  kept  free  of  weeds,  and  protected  from 
the  severest  frosts  only,  they  will  be  quite  large  enough  to  plant  out 
early  next  spring. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Oladlolua  Colvlllol  Tbe  Bride.  —This  is  an  excellent  plant 
when  six  or  eight  corms  aie  placed  In  6-inch  pots  and  grown  for 
flowering  in  the  greenhouse.  The  corms  should  be  covered  with  half  an 
inch  of  soil,  and  then  stood  in  a  cold  frame,  covering  the  pots  with  about 
1  inch  of  ashes  or  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  allowing  them  to  remain  until 
the  plants  grow  through,  when  they  should  be  gradually  exposed  to 
light  and  placed  in  ^  cool  house  close  to  the  glass. 
Carnation  Miss  yoUlde.— Strong  layers  pjtted  early  and  given 
cold  frame  treatment  are  producing  a  central  flower  stem.  The 
strongest  may  be  placed  at  once  into  6 -inch  pjts  and  put  in  a  green¬ 
house  where  they  will  flower  freely  during  early  spring.  If  the  plants 
are  not  needed  for  this  purpose  the  points  may  ba  pinched  out,  which 
will  cause  them  to  branch  freely.  It  is  time  that  all  layered  outside  for 
growing  under  glass  were  potted,  so  that  they  can  become  established 
before  the  winter. 
