JOURNAL  OP  PORTtOULTtiRP  AND  COTPAGP  GARDENPR. 
November  58,  1858. 
5S(5 
Sxtalbltlngr  {Precise  Amateur). — Yoh  cite  a  class  entitled  thus  ; — 
"  Cottagers  and  allotment  holders. — Open  to  any  cottager  whose  rent 
does  not  exceed  £13  a  year  then  aek  if  you  can  exhibit  in  the  class 
without  disqualification  if  your  rent  exceed  that  limit,  contending  that 
the  rent  only  applies  to  cottagers  and  not  allotment  holders.  Our  reply 
is  that  in  all  cases  of  doubt  as  to  the  interpretation  of  terms  and  con¬ 
ditions  application  sbou  d  be  made  to  the  secretaries  of  shows  for 
information  and  guidance  prior  to  exhibiiiog.  In  this  case  we  are  of 
opinion  that  the  terms  cottagers  and  allotment  holders  are  synonymous, 
and  that  the  words  “  open  to  any  cottager  ”  practically  covers  “  and 
allotment  holder.”  While  it  is  impossible  to  make  schedules  too  clear, 
quibbling  over  terms  when  their  meaning  is  generally  understood  is  not 
particularly  edifying. 
Ziggs  on  Plum  Shoots  {Southern  Gardener), — The  minute  black 
eggs  at  the  base  of  the  buds  on  the  shoot  are  those  of  the  Plum  aphis 
(A  pruni),  and  differ  materially  from  those  of  Hop  aphis  (A.  or  Phorodon 
humuli),  though  there  is  a  general  similarity.  The  eggs  are  deposited  in 
the  late  summer,  and  from  these  hatch  out  the  viviparous  aphides  in  the 
spring,  which  increase  at  a  marvellously  rapid  rate  and  infest  the  growing 
tender  shoots,  seriously  crippling,  and  sometimes  ruining  the  crop  by 
their  filthy  excretions,  as  well  as  abstracting  the  juices  of  the  growths, 
causing  them  to  become  distorted .  The  best  means  of  destroying  the 
eggs  is  to  spray  the  trees  with  Coates’  solution  of  caustic  soda  and 
commercial  potash  (pearlash),  half  pound  each,  dissolving  separately  in 
a  small  quantity  of  hot  water,  then  mix  and  dilute  to  6  gallons  with  hot 
water,  applying  by  means  of  a  spraying  apparatus,  when  the  weather  is 
mild  and  the  trees  dry,  so  as  just  to  coat  every  part  with  a  thin  film  of 
the  solution,  which  is  most  effective  when  at  120°  to  130°.  The  trees 
must  be  quite  dormant.  We  are  much  obliged  for  the  specimen,  as  it 
enables  us  to  verify  certain  points  in  the  aphis  history. 
IVZagnolia  grandlflora  not  Flowering  {F.  D).  —  It  is  not 
unusual  lor  this  noole-foiiaged,  large-flowered,  sweet-scented  tree  to 
grow  strongly  and  flower  little  or  not  at  all  until  aged,  especially  when 
growing  in  rich  and  deep  soil.  We  should  try  what  effect  root-pruning 
had  upon  the  tree,  taking  out  a  trench  about  one-third  the  distance  from 
the  stem  the  tree  covers  in  extent  of  wall,  and  cutting  the  roots  there. 
This  we  have  generally  found  successful  especially  when  any  straight 
down  roots  are  cut  off  somewhat  close  to  the  stem.  Root-pruning,  how¬ 
ever.  must  not  be  carried  too  far,  or  it  will  seriously  affect  the  growth, 
if  not  cause  the  death  of  the  tree  ;  indeed  Magnolias  are  somewhat 
impatient  of  root  disturbance,  so  that  you  must  exercise  care  and 
judgment  in  the  matter  of  root-pruning.  We  suppose  the  growths  are 
sufficiently  thin  to  expose  them  to  light  and  air,  this  being  important 
to  secure  well-ripened  wood  and  a  free-flowering  habit.  We  have  heard 
o'  sterile  forms  of  this  evergreen,  but  have  not  seen  any,  as  those  (so 
called)  have  flowered  well  after  root  restriction,  while  some  do  not 
flower  through  not  having  sufficient  space,  being  cut  and  kept  continu¬ 
ally  making  growth,  so  that  the  wood  does  not  ripen  sufficiently. 
Fungoid  Diseases  of  Tomatoes  {T.P.R.), — “  Sleepy  disease,” 
“  black  spot,”  and  *■  black  stripe”  are  all  one,  being  caused  by  Fusarinm 
solani  syn.  lycopersici,  which  hybernates  in  winter  in  the  soil  in  the 
resting  stage  or  spore,  and  is  certainly  frost,  wet,  and  drought  proof, 
pushing  germinal  tubes  in  the  spring,  and  entering  a  Tomato  plant’s 
root  penet'-ates  between  the  bark  and  woody  tissue,  ascending  by  the 
stem,  and  causing  the  disease  with  the  above  popular  names.  The 
fungus  lives  both  as  a  saprophyte  and  as  a  parasite,  hence  is  frequently 
introduced  in  fibry  soil  and  stable  or  farmyard  manure.  We  mention 
this,  as  disinfecting  the  house  is  sometimes  ineffectual,  or  apparently  so, 
through  the  resting  spores  being  reintroduced  as  described,  and  the 
disinfecting  processes  nullified,  the  advisers  then  getting  nothing  but 
unmerited  denunciation  for  endeavouring  to  profit  growers.  The  best 
thing  we  have  u  ed  as  a  soil  disinfectant  for  this  disease  is  quicklime. 
In  ordinary  cases  about  2^  per  cent.,  quarter-inch  thickness  of  best 
(atone)  lime,  freshly  burned  and  slaked  just  before  use,  using  only 
sufficient  water  to  oiuse  it  to  become  floury,  and  mixed  with  the  soil  to 
a  depth  of  an  ordinary  digging  fork,  taking  small  slices,  so  as  to  better 
insure  the  mixing.  When  there  is  reason  to  use  more  lime,  as  when  the 
soil  is  very  fibry  or  contains  much  organic  matter,  such  as  roots  of 
plants  or  rough  manure,  5  per  cent,  of  lime  should  be  used,  say  ^-inch 
thickness  to  10  inches  depth  of  soil,  while  in  bad  oases  or  where  there 
has  been  infection,  10  per  cent,  of  lime  or  1  inch  thickness  to  10  inches 
depth  of  soil  can  be  employed.  The  lime  does  not  kill  the  resting 
spores  of  the  fungus,  but  it  converts  the  organic  matter  into  nitrate  of 
lime  by  certain  ch4;mical  and  micro-organic  processes,  and  thus  cuts  off 
the  nutrition  of  the  germinal  tubes,  which  neither  in  soil  nor  anywhere 
can  live  on  anything  but  organic  matter,  either  obtained  from  dead  or 
living  plants,  or  from  solution  in  the  soil.  This  is  the  whole  and  sole 
object  of  the  lime,  and  it  is  equally  effective  against  diseases  in  various 
plants  set  up  by  slime  fungus,  which  in  no  case  can  exist  where  the  soil 
contains  the  amounts  of  lime  quoted.  For  the  walls  you  cannot  have 
anything  better  than  hot  limewash.  Nothing  answers  better  for  wood¬ 
work  than  soluble  petroleum,  using  similarly  to  softsoap,  with  water 
and  a  brush  on  painted  wood.  Any  unpainted  wood  may  be  painted 
when  quite  dry  with  Stockholm  tar  thinned  to  the  consistency  of 
ordinary  paint  with  petroleum.  This  is  the  best  fungicide  and  the  best 
preserver  of  wood,  two  coats  being  necessary,  and  unlike  creosote  does 
not  give  off  fumes  injurious  to  plants.  We  have  not  advised  anything 
for  killing  resting  apores,  for  some,  as  gas  lime,  sterilise  the  soil,  and 
such  things  require  to  be  used  long  in  advance  of  using  the  soil,  to  allow 
of  their  deleterious  properties  passing  off.  Frost,  so  far  as  we  have 
experience,  has  no  effect  whatever  on  the  resting  spores  of  fungi. 
Chemical  IMtaunre  for  Fruit  Trees  {F.  J.), — The  best  for 
Apple  and  Pear  trees  that  we  have  tried  is  composed  of  dissolved  bones 
(bone  superphosphate),  twelve  parts  or  lbs. ;  nitrate  of  potash  (saltpetre, 
crushed),  ten  parts  ;  chloride  of  soda  (common  salt),  four  parts ;  sulphate 
of  magnesia  (Epsom  salts),  two  parts  ;  sulphate  of  iron  (green  vitriol), 
one  part ;  and  sulphate  of  lime  (gypsum),  eight  parts,  mixed  and  used  in 
late  winter  or  very  early  in  the  spring  at  the  rate  of  4  oks.  per  square 
yard.  It  is  Mr.  Tonks’  mixture  advised  as  a  cure  for  canker  in  Apple 
and  Pear  trees,  and  a  perfect  one  it  is  for  that  form  of  canker  arising 
from  defective  nutrition.  If  you  want  a  cheaper  use  7  lbs.  of  basic  slag 
phosphate  and  If  lb.  of  kainit  per  square  rod  now,  pointing  in,  and  in 
the  spring  supply  |-lb.  of  nitrate  of  soda  when  the  buds  commence 
swelling,  repotting  toe  dose  if  a  good  crop  of  fruit  sets  when  the  crop 
is  fairly  swelling.  If  a  poor  crop  of  fruit  and  there  is  plenty  of  growth 
omit  the  second  application  of  nitrate  of  soda. 
Pear  Borgamotte  Hertrlcb  {W.  C.  3)  Sons). — Your  specimen 
more  closely  resembles  this  variety  than  any  we  know,  but  as  it  was 
hard  and  unripe  we  cannot  be  positive  that  it  is  correct.  It  is  a 
delicious  Pear,  the  flesh  being  yellow  and  juicy,  with  a  rich  flavour  re¬ 
sembling  the  Swan’s  Egg.  It  is  an  excellent  keeping  Pear,  indeed  this 
is  one  of  its  valuable  qualities ;  at  the  same  time  it  is  easily  brought 
FIG  91.-^pear  bekoamotte  hektkich. 
forward  in  a  warm  room.  Itdoesnot,  of  course,  rank  so  high  as  GIou 
Mot 93au  or  Winter  Nelis  as  a  January  Pear,  but  it  keeps  much  longer 
than  either.  Most  growers  find  Bergamotte  Hertrich  (fig.  01)  hardy 
and  a  great  bearer. 
K°epliigr  Apples  {F.  J.). — The  generality  of  Apples  are  keeping 
excellently  this  year,  there  being  very  little  ”  bitter  rot,”  even  in  the 
American  samples,  and  less  in  the  English  ;  but  some  have  the  tracks  of 
the  parasite  fairly  defined  in  the  flesh,  and  may  any  day  go  wrong,  as 
we  have  seen  Pears  that  would  fetch,  if  sound,  3d.  each  rotting  by  the 
bushel,  the  fungus  entering  by  the  eye  (mostly)  and  causing  the  fruit  to 
decay  at  the  core.  The  plan  you  adopt  is  the  correct  one,  keeping  cool, 
dark,  and  not  too  dry.  We  do  not  know  of  any  system  that  would  other¬ 
wise  help  to  keep  the  fruits,  as  when  fruits  begin  to  ripen  in  the  store 
only  cold  will  stop  them. 
Ferns  tTnhealthy  {E.  C.J). — We  have  examined  the  Adiantums 
very  carefully,  and  find  nothing  of  either  an  insect  or  fungoid  character 
to  account  for  their  condition  ;  indeed,  we  failed  to  discover  anything  of 
either  a  visible  or  microscopic  nature  in  those  respects.  It  is  not 
unusual  for  Maidenhair  Ferns  to  have  the  tips  of  the  fronds  in  a 
browned  condition,  and  the  whole  gradually  becoming  greatly  disfigured. 
We  have  found  this  to  frequently  arise  from  noxious  fumes,  such  as 
escape  of  smoke  from  flues  or  furnaces,  and  commonly  in  result  of 
fumigation  with  tobacco  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine  essence.  It  may 
also  arise  from  the  atmosphere  being  excessively  damp  and  moisture 
condensing  in  the  fronds,  then  air  being  admitted  so  as  to  suddenly  dry 
the  atmosphere  or  produce  a  chill,  the  tender  tissues  suffer  and  die 
more  or  less.  The  misfortune,  however,  may  occur  from  soil  condition. 
In  your  case  the  rhizomes  are  quite  healthy  and  pushing  young  fronds, 
so  that  there  is  not  a  case  made  out  of  “  poison  ”  having  been  applied, 
but  there  is  evidence  of  defective  nutrition  essential  for  healthy  develop¬ 
ment.  This  is  near  akin  to  what  is  known  as  sourness  of  soil,  and 
though  slight,  is  sufficient  to  account  for  unhealthy  fronds.  In  such 
cases  we  have  found  a  moderate  use  of  air-slaked  chalk  lime  of  great 
service,  a  little  being  sprinkled  on  the  pots  or  soil  from  time  to  time, 
theusual  waterings  washing  it  in.  This  arrests  the  sourness,  liberates 
'  ammonia,  and  this  with  the  lime  as  a  base  is  converted  into  nitrate  of 
