December  3,  1896. 
547 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
Society  to  undertake  that  duty.  An  hour’s  careful  study  every  evening 
from  now  to  the  6th  of  April  next  will  enable  young  gardeners  to  lace 
the  R.H.S.  examination  with  pleasure  and  confidence.  The  old  advice, 
“  Never  prophesy  unless  you  know,”  seems  applicable  in  the  present  case, 
and  1897  may  see  more  practical  gardeners  in  the  lists  than  ever. — 
Peactice  with  Science. 
[We  admit  this  letter  into  the  ”  Domain,”  because  of  its  excellence, 
relevancy,  and  cogency.  It  is  fair  to  say  that  the  writer  is  no  longer 
“  young,”  but  as  his  object  is  clearly  to  help  those  who  are,  and  also 
commendably  striving,  we  permit  him,  so  to  say,  to  address  the  class  this 
week.  A  short  address  will  be  given  by  another  senior  on  another 
subject  in  a  future  issue.] 
Potting  L.<elia  anceps  and  Cattleya  labiata. 
I  HAVE  been  at  work  in  the  Laelia  and  Cattleya  house  this  week.  I 
notice  that  the  Laelia  anceps  are  making  fresh  roots,  and  I  have  wondered 
why  the  potting  or  top-dressing  is  put  off  till  the  spring.  Those  without 
flower  spikes  could  be  done  now  without  injury  to  the  roots,  and  the 
remainder  when  the  flower  spikes  are  cut. 
The  same  with  Cattleya  labiata,  which  will  soon  have  finished  flower¬ 
ing,  and  will  be  making  fresh  roots  by  the  new  year.  I  had  to  assist  in 
potting  some  labiatas  the  first  week  in  February  of  this  year,  and  when 
the  pans  were  broken  we  found  a  number  of  new  roots,  but  the  eyes 
were  only  just  beginning  to  swell. 
I  am  in  another  situation  now ;  it  is  a  small  place,  and  I  have  to  do 
all  the  potting.  I  wished  to  do  the  “anceps  ”  at  once  before  they  make 
much  root,  and  the  “  labiatas  ”  in  December.  My  superior  likes  to  see 
the  eyes  pushing  before  he  pots  them  ;  but  when  it  is  put  off  till  that 
time  we  cannot,  if  we  are  ever  so  carbful,  avoid  injuring  the  soft  points 
of  some  of  the  roots,  and  when  these  are  damaged  it  is  some  time  before 
the  old  roots  send  out  any  more  rootlets. 
Perhaps  one  of  the  young  gardeners,  or  preferably  an  experienced 
cultivator,  will  tell  me  when  those  plants  should  be  repotted,  and  if  1 
am  wrong  as  regards  their  rooting  season  1 — Second  of  Three. 
[A  compliment  is  due  to  our  youthful  correspondent  on  the  neatness 
of  his  writing,  and  the  space  he  has  left  between  the  lines  for  editorial 
revision,  though  in  this  case  little  was  needed.  The  subject  being  one 
for  an  expert  we  have  consulted  one  of  the  best  in  the  kingdom,  and  he 
favours  with  the  following  reply : — 
”  Second  of  Three  ”  is  quite  right.  One  of  the  most  frequent  mistakes 
in  Orchid  growing  is  to  repot  when  the  annual  flush  of  roots  is  too  far 
advanced  to  admit  of  the  work  being  done  without  injury  to  them.  1 
have  not  found  as  a  rule  that  Lmlia  anceps  when  grown  in  a  suitable 
temperature  commences  to  root  before  the  new  year,  but  if  growing  in 
the  same  house  as  Cattleyas  the  plants  will  doubtless  by  now  be  on  the 
move.  In  this  case  they  should  be  repotted  without  delay  ;  the  young 
roots  will  then  enter  the  new  compost  freely,  and  prove  of  the  greatest 
assistance  to  the  forming  growth.  In  the  case  of  Cattleya  labiata,  too, 
observation  of  the  roots  is  of  the  utmost  importance.  If  these  are  active 
after  the  flowers  are  past,  and  the  plants  are  in  bad  condition  at  the 
root,  by  all  means  repot.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  old  material  is  in 
fairly  good  order  and  the  drainage  right  they  will  be  better  left  until 
the  young  shoots  are  about  4  inches  high  and  just  commencing  to  root 
on  their  own  account.  Our  correspondent  will  be  wise  in  cultivating  this 
faculty  of  observation  which  he  has  formed,  for  only  thereby  is  success 
in  Orchid  growiag  attained.] 
Looking  Forward. 
Yes,  we  are  looking  forward  to  the  commencement  of  another  year 
in  the  horticultural  world.  Everything  around  seems  to  tell  us  that  we 
are  entering  upon  a  series  of  quietude  and  rest  ;  yet  with  what  pleasure 
we  look  abroad  over  the  woods  and  valleys  1  Trees  with  their  autumnal 
change.  Ferns  with  their  decaying  tints  of  brown  and  yellow,  all  these 
tell  us  we  have  come  to  the  end  of  another  year,  and  so  we  look 
forward  for  the  next. 
With  what  interest  do  we  go  through  the  garden  and  watch  every 
fruit  tree  to  see  what  prospect  there  is  for  the  coming  season’s  crop  ! 
and  as  we  look  at  the  plump  fruit  buds  we  say,  Yes  ;  there  is  enclosed 
in  that  bud  the  result  of  all  our  labours  for  months  past ;  and  so  we 
watch  and  wait  to  see  what  the  coming  year  will  bring  forth. 
The  flower  garden  again  presenting  a  dismal  appearance.  As  we  pass 
along  we  say  to  ourselves,  Gan  this  be  what  we  saw  a  few  weeks  ago, 
when  everything  looked  as  bright  and  charming  as  a  summer’s  morn  1 
But  the  shrivelling  plants  have  done  their  season’s  work,  and  we  shall 
next  look  for  the  pearly  Snowdrop  and  bright  Crocus  which  we  always 
welcome  in  the  first  days  of  spring. 
Young  gardeners,  too,  look  forward  for  something  in  the  greenhouse 
as  well  as  the  garden.  Every  day  brings  its  work  ;  as  one  batch  of 
plants  seems  to  have  done  its  service  another  takes  its  place.  We  some¬ 
times  wonder  what  our  superior  will  find  to  take  the  place  of  that  useful 
and  beautiful  plant,  the  Chrysanthemum  ;  but  when  we  look  ahead  we 
see  Primulas,  Cyclamens,  Bouvardias,  Zonal  Pelargoniums,  Hyacinths, 
and  Crocuses  coming  into  flower  ;  and  what  a  brilliant  display  they 
make  1  In  the  fruit  houses  we  are  looking  for  the  starting  of  the  first 
crop  of  the  season,  and  what  is  more  beautiful  and  interesting  than  a 
vinery  putting  forth  its  buds  or  the  Peach  house  in  full  blossom  ?  All 
these  seem  to  throw  new  vigour  into  our  life  ;  and  as  seasons  come  and 
go  we  learn  that  as  fades  the  leaf  and  flower  so  one  day  we  shall  do  the 
same. 
I  always  look  forward  to  the  new  year  with  interest,  because  I  can 
turn  over  and  begin  a  fresh  page  in  my  diary.  It  is  a  good  plan  for 
beginners  to  note  every  operation  that  has  been  transacted  during  the 
day,  and  at  the  end  of  the  year  what  a  number  of  useful  notes  we 
have  to  refer  to.  I  am  careful  to  note  the  different  methods  practised  in 
different  gardens,  for,  as  a  rule,  we  do  not  often  find  two  gardeners 
adopt  exactly  the  same  plans,  and  our  head  gardeners  are  interested  in 
a  young  man  who  carries  his  pencil  and  pocket  book,  and  is  always  on 
the  look  out  to  learn  all  he  can. 
Again,  we  are  looking  forward  to  the  time  when  we  hope  to  rise  to 
the  same  position  as  our  superiors.  We  have  every  opportunity  for 
doing  so.  Books  are  cheap,  and  a  few  shillings  spared  oat  of  our  earn¬ 
ings  will,  I  am  sure,  well  repay  us.  Then  what  a  pleasure  it  is  to  roam 
the  fields  and  hedgerows  on  a  summer’s  evening  in  search  of  wild 
flowers  and  Ferns,  of  which  numbers  of  them  well  deserve  a  place  in 
the  flower  garden,  bat  I  am  afraid  there  are  many  young  gardeners  (and 
old  ones  too)  who  are  quite  ignorant  of  their  names  and  locality.  ' 
By  steady  perseverance  in  acquiring  knowledge,  educating  our  eyes 
to  business  and  our  hands  to  work,  we  shall  by-and-by  reach  the  goal. — 
Fair  Oak,  Bassaleg. 
[Will  oUr  correspondent  when  next  he  sends  an  equally  well  written 
and  easily  revised  communication  oblige  by  numbering  his  sheets  ?] 
Training  Fruit  Trees. 
At  present  everyone  connected  with  gardening  seems  to  be  affected 
with  the  Chrysanthemum  fever.  Still  we  mast  not  overlook  other  parts 
of  the  season’s  duties.  The  weather  is  at  present  very  suitable  for  tree 
pruning,  nailing,  and  tying  outside.  We  can  sometimes  see  the  effects 
of  delay  regarding  this  kind  of  work.  As  long  as  mild  weather  lasts 
many  gardeners  will  be  kept  busy  with  planting,  though  it  may  be  late 
enough  for  autumn  planting.  However,  should  we  be  favoured  with  a  mild 
winter,  the  extra  work  of  spring  planting  will  be  greatly  helped  by  the 
advanced  state  of  the  work  done  now,  and  nothing  bat  good  will  come  from 
the  present  early  planting.  But  to  return  to  the  training  of  fruit  trees. 
Everyone  will  admit  that  the  milder  the  weather  the  more  work  will 
be  done.  It  is  not  work,  however  industrious  we  may  be,  to  keep  the 
body  comfortable  when  a  cold  biting  wind  blows.  It  is  in  such  weather 
that  time  is  wasted. 
At  tne  present  time  the  garden  looks  rather  bleak  and  dull  out  of 
doors,  but  how  interesting  it  is  to  see  a  wall  covered  with  well  trained 
trees.  This  kind  of  work  takes  the  whole  skill  of  a  man  to  effect  any 
way  near  perfection.  Most  skill,  Lthink,  can  always  be  displayed  with 
a  Peach  or  Morello  Cherry  tree.  A  watchful  eye  has  to  be  kept  on  every 
part  so  that  the  tree  may  be  equally  balanced,  and  have  every  shoot 
running  straight  in  the  proper  direction.  Nothing  looks  worse  than  a  tree 
unequally  balanced,  and  its  shoots  crooked  and  running  into  each  other. 
So  long  as  the  sides  of  a  tree  are  kept  well  furnished  there  is  no  fear 
for  the  centre,  for  it  is  on  rare  occasions  that  wood  cannot  be  produced 
for  it.  It  is  also  a  great  mistake  to  nail  shoots  in  thickly,  as  they 
crowd  the  others  and  make  demands  on  the  roots  which  are  quite 
unnecessary.  A  well  trained  tree  is  always  a  pleasure,  and  is  a  monu¬ 
ment  to  the  young  workman  who  has  had  it  to  train. — S.  Junior, 
Hints  on  Bouvardias. 
The  main  object  in  growing  Bouvardias  is  to  keep  them  cool  after 
they  are  well  rootedj;  once  they  get  established  they  are  very  easy  to 
cultivate.  I  will  endeavour  to  give  the  treatment  of  those  I  have  had 
under  my  charge.  First,  after  the  old  stools  have  had  a  rest,  they  are 
brought  into  a  temperature  of  about  60°,  giving  those  that  need  it  a 
good  soaking  through  with  tepid  water,  keeping  them  well  syringed  on 
bright  days  with  plenty  of  moisture  about  the  house,  and  they  will  soon 
commence  breaking.  When  the  cuttings  are  large  enough  to  handle, 
take  them  off  with  a  sharp  knife  and  a  little  old  wood,  and  insert  them  in 
small  thumbs  previously  filled  with  light  sandy  soil  with  a  good  dash 
of  cocoa-nut  fibre.  Plunge  the  pots  under  a  hand-light  or  bell-glass,  in 
cocoa-nut  fibre  with  a  good  bottom  heat,  keeping  close  and  well  shaded, 
avoiding  a  too  humid  atmosphere  until  rooted,  which  will  be  in  about  a 
fortnight.  After  that  they  are  taken  out  and  stood  on  a  shelf  close  to 
the  glass,  keeping  them  shaded  for  a  few  days,  being  careful  not  to  over¬ 
water  them,  A  great  point  in  growing  Bouvardias  is  careful  watering, 
for  once  a  plant  becomes  soddened  it  will  hardly  if  ever  regain  its  lost 
health.  Pinch  out  the  points  of  each  plant  as  soon  as  it  has  made  two 
or  three  joints. 
Repot  when  necessary,  using  a  compost  of  good  fibry  loam,  part  leaf 
soil,  and  a  good  sprinkling  of  coarse  sand.  When  they  are  shifted  into 
.54’s  or  48’s,  place  in  a  cold  frame,  keeping  it  close  for  a  few  days  ;  then 
gradually  harden  by  the  admission  of  air.  On  bright  days  the  lights  may 
be  removed  altogether.  About  the  beginning  of  August  stand  the  plants 
in  full  sunshine  to  get  well  ripened,  attending  to  the  stopping  of 
them  as  required.  A  little  liquid  or  artificial  manure  will  help  them 
considerably. 
Old  stools  that  are  not  wanted  for  cuttings  may  be  started  into 
growth  any  time  during  March  or  April.  After  they  have  commenced 
breaking,  turn  them  out  of  their  pots,  shaking  some  of  the  old  soil  off, 
placing  them  in  a  smaller  size,  and  when  well  started  into  growth  pinch 
them  as  previously  advised.  They  grow  freely  in  a  temperature  of  60°, 
keeping  them  well  syringed,  afterwards  removing  to  a  cold  frame  and 
treating  as  aforesaid.  When  wanted  for  autumn  or  winter  flowering 
they  may  be  safely  pinched  back  till  about  the  end  of  July.  Bouvardias 
like  a  good  amount  of  drainage. 
When  housed,  which  will  be  about  September,  arrange  them  on  a 
stage  with  plenty  of  moisture  about  them,  as  they  are  very  subject  to 
the  attacks  of  red  spider  and  thrips.  Fumigate  occasionally  against  green 
fly.  Scale  when  once  established  on  Bouvardias  is  difficult  to  get  rid  of,  so 
must  be  looked  sharply  after,  and  destroyed  in  its  early  stages. — Dunelm. 
