548 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  3,  1896. 
HABDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Winter  Pruning  Fruit  Trees. — The  prsning  of  fruit  trees  should 
be*csrried  on  whenever  there  is  a  favourable  opportunity  throughout 
the  winter,  but  preferring  if  possible  to  commence  and  complete  the 
work  early.  The  advantages  of  doing  this  are  obvious.  The  superfluous 
wood  being  removed  early,  cut  or  wounds  caused  are  soon  healed  over. 
Opportunity  is  also  aflford^  to  effectively  dress  the  trees  with  insecti¬ 
cides  for  the  destruction  of  insects  and  fungoid  pests.  On  the  com¬ 
pletion  of  these  operations  the  ground  beneath/'  the  trees  can  be  forked 
over,  or  cleaned  and  dressed  with  manure  for  completing  the  winter 
treatment. 
Winter  pruning  requires  good  judgment  and  knowledge  to  carry  it  out 
effectively.  It  is,  as  a  rule,  the  last  stage  in  the  year’s  management,  and 
decides,  according  to  the  method  of  procedure,  whether  fruitfulness  shall 
be  insured  or  wood  growth  promoted.  Restricted  trees  that  have  been 
properly  summer  pruned  so  as  to  check  the  exuberance  of  the  current 
year’s  shoots  and  induce  them  to  build  up  fruitful  buds  at  the  base,  are 
those  which  seem,  apparently,  most  benefited  by  the  winter  treatment. 
This  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  previous  attention  was  given,  and  the 
strength  of  the  shoots  modified  by  judicious  shortening. 
Bash  and  Pyramid  Trees. — It  depends  whether  the  trees  are 
fully  formed  or  not  as  to  the  details  of  pruning.  Young  trees  that  have 
not  become  furnished  with  the  full  number  of  branches  ought  to  be  so 
shortened  to  strong  wood  buds  that  vigorous  shoots  will  be  originated  in 
the  desired  positions  or  near  at  hand.  Similar  treatment  is  given  when 
branches  have  not  extended  to  their  full  length.  The  younger  wood  at 
the  points  requires  to  be  shortened  to  about  two-thirds  or  half  length, 
according  to  the  situation  of  prominent  wood  buds,  for  continuing 
vigorous  growth.  •  One  of  the  upper  buds  will  form  the  fresh  leader, 
while  the  majority  of  those  below  form  fruit  buds  and  spurs.  Some 
may  not  have  arrived  at  such  a  highly  organised  condition  as  to  do  this 
the  first  season,  but  throw  out  side  or  lateral  shoots  instead,  which  may 
be  summer  pruned. 
Trees  fully  established  in  size  and  height  must  in  the  first  place  have 
the  main  branches  arranged  distinctly  wide  enough  apart.  A  foot 
distance  is  ample  for  many  trees,  but  some  will  be  better  for  at  least 
15  inches.  Next  give  attention  to  the  spurs,  it  frequently  happening 
that  these  are  too  rankly  placed,  in  a  manner  which  crowds  the  trees  ; 
if  BO,  apply  a  little  judicious  thinning,  selecting  for  removal  the  oldest 
or  worn-out  portions  and  those  which  project  unduly,  thus  shading  or 
spoiling  others  below  on  adjacent  branches.  The  young  summer  shoots 
upon  the  remaining  spurs  ought  then  to  be  cut-in  to  two  or  three  buds  ; 
but  if  fruit  buds  have  formed  or  are  promised,  cut  back  to  them.  These 
remarks  apply  chiefly  to  bush  and  pyramid  Apples  and  Pears. 
Standard  Trees. — Standard  trees  require  but  simple  pruning.  It 
consists  in  regulating  the  branches,  so  that  abundance  of  light  and  air 
can  reach  every  part  of  the  trees.  Not  only  on  the  outside,  but  in  the 
interior,  a  comparatively  free  access  of  light  is  necessary  in  summer 
when  the  foliage  is  abundant,  so  that  assimilative  processes  may  proceed 
equally  as  far  as  possible.  To  this  end  examine  well  each  tree,  and 
dispense  with  branches  that  cross  others,  especially  such  disposed  in  the 
centre.  All  dead  wood  should  be  noted,  and  cut  out.  In  dealing  with 
trees  that  have  been  neglected  for  a  long  period  considerable  care  and 
attention  is  needed  to  improve  them.  It  is  not  always  possible  to  effect 
a  complete  renovation  in  one  season.  In  such  cases  seek  principally  to 
afford  access  of  light  by  gradual  thinning.  It  is  not  possible  to 
improve  trees  in  the  best  manner  when  they  stand  too  closely  together, 
owing  to  being  originally  planted  at  incorrect  distances.  Standard 
trees  cannot  succeed  well  when  the  branches  at  any  point  grow  into 
those  of  adjacent  trees.  This  shows  the  wisdom  of  planting  free-growing 
specimens  20  to  30  feet  apart.  Shapely  trees  planted  at  this  distance 
have  every  chance  of  developing  naturally,  and  assuming  the  most 
desirable  contour  by  which  a  fruitful  character  is  perpetuated. 
Small  Bush  Fruit. — Gooseberries. — Young  annual  wood  bears 
good  crops  if  well  ripened  and  not  retained  too  thickly.  Cut  away  the 
shoots  freely  near  the  ground  and  in  the  centre  of  crowded  bushes, 
leaving  the  rest  fairly  evenly  disposed.  The  pruning  may  be  completed 
now,  if  protection  can  be  afforded  to  prevent  the  buds  being  attacked 
by  birds.  Stringing  cotton  over  the  bushes,  or  dustiug  with  lime  are 
preventives.  Some  prefer  late  winter  pruning  on  account  of  bird 
depredations . 
Black  Currants, — Prune  these  on  the  principle  of  retaining  strong 
young  shoots  issuing  from  the  base  of  the  bushes  or  as  suckers.  These 
are  annual  shoots,  the  older  or  fruit  bearing  portions  being  cut  out. 
Red  and  White  Currants. — The  main  branches  of  these  must  be 
retained  permanently,  the  side  shoots  being  annually  spurred  in  to 
within  an  inch  of  their  origin.  The  leading  shoot  on  each  branch  is 
shortened  to  9  inches  of  the  annual  growth  until  full  length  is  secured. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vlnea. — Houses  Started  Early  in  November, — Whether  the  Vines 
are  in  pots  or  planted  in  inside  borders  the  temperature  will  need 
to  be  increased  to  60°  at  night  in  mild  (55°  in  severe)  weather  after  the 
buds  break,  gradually  increasing  it  from  that  stage  to  60°  at  night  when 
the  Vines  are  in  leaf,  65“  by  day  in  severe  weather,  and  70°  to  75°  in  ’ 
mild  weather.  Ventilation  should  be  given  at  70°,  just  a  little  to  insure  * 
a  change  of  atmosphere,  increasing  it  with  the  sun  heat,  having  it  rather 
free  at  75°  and  above  that  temperature,  for  it  is  important  that  the 
foliage  be  well  formed  and  solidified;  Avoid,  however,  sharp  and  drying 
currents  of  air,  as  that  cripples  the  foliage,  stunting  the  growth. 
Sprinkle  the  Vines  in  the  afternoon  of  fine  days,  and  damp  the  floors  j.' 
twice  a  day  according  to  external  influences,  avoiding  a  saturated  jf 
atmosphere  on  the  one  hand  and  a  dry  one  on  the  other.  If  there  be  t 
evaporation  troughs  charge  them  with  liquid  manure,  the  clear  drainings  j'J 
of  stables  and  cow  byres,  but  avoid  those  of  pigstyes.  Guano,  1  oz.  to  a  ^ 
gallon  of  water,  is  suitable  for  filling  the  troughs,  also  for  watering  .y 
Vines  in  pots  or  planted  out,  the  liquid  being  applied  at  the  same  y 
temperature  of  the  house,  Disbuddding  must  not  be  practised  until  ^>1 
the  bunches  show  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  but  the  Vines  should  be 
tied  in  position  as  soon  as  the  growth  has  well  commenced,  and  before 
the  shoots  are  so  long  as  to  be  liable  to  be  damaged  in  the  operation. 
Houset  to  Afford  Ripe  Grapes  in  May. — The  Vines  that  are  to  /. 
produce  Grapes  fit  for  table  at  the  time  stated  must  be  started  at  once,  o 
these  having  had  a  few  weeks’  rest  after  being  pruned  and  the  house  -i 
cleansed,  and  everything  put  into  proper  order.  To  insure  an  even 
break,  the  atmosphere  must  be  kept  moist — nothing  insures  this  better 
than  a  bed  of  stable  litter  and  leaves  properly  sweetened,  placing  the 
materials  on  the  floor  and  turning  daily,  adding  fresh  as  requisite. 
Outside  borders  should  have  the  needful  protection  from  cold  rains  and 
snow  ;  two-thirdi  leaves  and  one  of  stable  litter  afford  a  lees  violent  but  . 
more  lasting  heat  than  manure,  yet  it  is  not  advisable  to  use  fermenting 
material  on  outside  borders  unless  they  can  be  properly  attended  to 
afterwards  in  removing  the  spent,  and  replenishing  with  fresh  as  required, 
then  they  are  useful,  not  otherwise.  Where  outside  borders  were  covered 
with  leaves,  bracken,  or  litter  early  in  autumn,  so  as  to  throw  off  the  wet, 
the  temperature  will  be  considerably  warmer  than  of  exposed  borders, 
and  in  that  case,  covering  with  fermenting  material  may  be  dispensed 
with  ;  but  where  the  roots  of  Vines  are  wholly  outside,  a  covering  of 
warm  litter  is  preferable.  Such  Vines,  however,  are  not  suitable  for 
early  forcing,  as  for  that  purpose  the  roots  should  be  inside  mainly,  if  . 
not  wholly,  the  outside  border,  if  any,  being  properly  protected  from 
cold  and  wet.  Inside  borders  must  be  brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist 
state  by  applying  water  in  a  tepid  state.  Avoid,  however,  making  the 
soil  very  wet,  as  that  is  unfavourable  to  the  emission  of  fresh  fibrelets. 
Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by  syringing  two  or  three  times  a  day  ia 
bright  weather,  occasionally  only  on  dull,  avoiding  excessive  moisture  and 
a  close  atmosphere,  as  these  excite  the  emission  of  aerial  roots  from  the 
rods.  The  temperature  should  be  50°  at  night  in  severe  weather,  55°  when 
mild,  and  65°  by  day,  except  the  weather  be  severe,  thea  maintain  at  65°, 
not  exceeding  those  figures  until  the  Vines  commence  growth.  Young 
Vines  will  need  the  rods  depressed  to  the  horizontal  line,  or  below  it,  to 
insure  the  regular  breaking  of  the  buds,  without  this  they  push  growths 
from  the  upper  buds  only. 
Early  Muscat  Houses. — Where  Muscat  of  Alexandria  Grapes  are 
required  ripe  at  the  end  of  May  or  early  in  June  the  house  must  now  be 
started.  The  Vines  must  have  the  roots  wholly  inside,  and  the  soil  be 
brought  into  a  fairly  moist  but  not  wet  condition.  The  temperature 
should  range  from  55°  to  60°  at  night,  65°  to  70°  by  day,  the  lower  heat 
representing  the  severe,  and  the  higher  the  mild  weather  rate.  These 
temperatures  should  be  maintained  until  the  buds  break,  when  the  heat 
will  need  to  be  raised  gradually,  so  as  to  have  it  65°  to  70°  at  night  by 
the  time  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  70°  to  75°  by  day  in  dull  weather, 
and  10°  to  15°  rise  from  sun  heat ;  the  house  therefore  must  be  well  heated, 
and  means  provided  for  admitting  air  without  causing  cold  currents.  ' 
With  these  contrivances  and  good  management  Muscat  of  Alexandria 
Grapes  always  command  good  prices  early  in  the  season,  but  unless  they 
are  well  done  the  Grapes  are  not  satisfactory  in  returns,  considering 
that  the  expense  is  much  greater,  taking  the  cropping,  as  compared  with 
Black  Hamburgh,  into  consideration.  Madresfield  Court  is  an  excellent 
black  companion  to  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  and  forces  splendidly. 
Midseason  Houses. — Prune  the  Vines  directly  the  leaves  have  fallen. 
This  is  advantageous  in  securing  complete  rest  and  a  good  break  at  the  i 
proper  time.  Thin-skinned  Grapes  keep  better  cut  and  bottled  than  on 
the  Vines,  especially  under  a  leaky  roof,  and  with  plants  in  the  house. 
The  Grapes  should  be  cut  with  sufficient  wood  for  placing  in  bottles  of 
clear  rain  water,  with  a  piece  of  charcoal  in  each.  In  a  suitable  room 
the  Grapes  have  a  more  equable  temperature  than  it  is  possible  to  accord 
them  in  vineries,  and  they  keep  longer  and  quite  as  plump.  Keeping  | 
late  Grapes  on  the  Vines  to  mature  after  the  leaves  have  fallen  certainly 
improves  those  having  a  coarse  earthy  flavour,  such  as  Gros  Colman,  and 
the  Grapes  from  their  leathery  skins  are  not  so  liable  to  injury  from 
damp  as  the  thiu-skinned  Grapes,  therefore  they  are  left  on  the  Vines  .  - 
until  the  new  year,  or  later,  before  cutting  and  bottling  ;  but  in  the 
case  of  the  midseason  Vines  it  is  well  to  prune  them  directly  all  the  ' 
leaves  are  down,  and  cut  and  bottle  any  Grapes  at  that  time  remaining. 
Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  dress  the  Vines,  top-dress  the  border  after 
removing  the  loose  surface  soil,  and  keep  the  house  as  cool  as  possible. 
Late  Houses. — Take  every  possible  precaution  against  damp.  Drip 
is  fatal  to  late  Grapes,  a  single  drop  getting  inside  a  bunch  being 
sufficient  to  spoil  it,  as  the  decay  rapidly  spreads.  Drip  is  often  caused 
by  keeping  the  house  closed  and  the  pipes  cold,  so  that  moisture  con¬ 
denses  on  the  glass  and  falls  from  the  rafters  or  sashbars  on  to  the  } 
Grapes.  This  is  common  where  early  ventilation  is  neglected  on  fine  ' 
days,  the  moisture  being  condensed  on  the  berries.  A  little  air  and  ;j 
gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  dissipate  the  moisture  and  prevent  decay 
