December  10,  1886, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTTCULrURE  AND  COTTAGE  OARDENER^ 
555 
Tite  Pbeparation. 
The  soil  of  the  bank  was  mostly  a  heavy  loam,  approaching  a 
clay  in  places,  and  at  others  rendered  more  friable  by  the  growth  of 
turf.  We  should  have  liked  to  break  up  and  turn  in  the  whole  of 
the  turf,  bat  unfortunately  it  was  largely  composed  of  twitch,  and 
this,  in  addition  to  the  fact  that  the  tract  of  land  had  never  been 
under  cultivation,  induced  ui  to  adopt  a  more  thorough  system  of 
preparation  than  would  otherwise  have  been  attempted.  It  was 
resolved  to  trench  the  whole  border  two  spits  deep.  Where  the 
turf  was  suitable  it  was  pared  o£E,  chopped  up  with  a  spade  and 
incorporated  with  the  soil  in  the  process,  every  piece  of  twitch 
root  being  carefully  removed.  Decayed  vegetable  refuse  free 
from  weeds  was  added,  also  a  little  old  stable  manure  where  it  was 
intended  to  grow  the  stronger  plants.  Throughout  the  preparation 
stations  were  marked  off  at  intervals  for  plants  requiring  different 
kinds  of  soil.  For  instance,  several  stations  were  prepared  in  which 
peat  was  dug  in,  in  others  sand  or  sand  rock  was  used,  with  lime 
and  limestone  in  others.  Beyond  breaking  up  the  soil  thoroughly 
this  was  all  the  preparation  given,  and  a  considerable  extent  was 
left  without  stable  or  farmyard  manure  and  vegetable  refuse,  with 
a  view  to  testing  the  effects  of  some  of  the  principal  artificial  or 
chemical  manures. 
The  chief  difiBculty  in  regard  to  the  picturesque  appearance  of 
the  border  was  that  it  was  a  dead  level  from  end  to  end,  and  to 
obviate  this  to  some  extent  we  arranged  to  have  irregular  mounds 
raised  to  be  covered  with  the  roots  of  trees,  or  large  blocks  of 
sandstone  to  form  rockeries,  but  to  obtain  the  desired  diversity  of 
outline  we  had  to  rely  mainly  upon  the  selection  of  plants  notable 
for  distinct  habit.  Another  means  of  obtaining  some  variation 
from  uniformity  was  yielded  by  the  opportunity  to  throw  a  couple 
of  rustic  bridges  across  the  stream,  which  added  materially  to  the 
attraction  of  the  view  from  each  end.  By  cutting  away  the  bank 
in  places  and  making  steps  down  to  the  water  level  we  were  enabled 
to  prepare  stations  suitable  for  swamp  or  marsh  plants,  and  in  one 
instance  an  opportunity  was  presented  at  a  shallow  part  of  the 
stream  to  have  stepping  stones  conducting  across  to  a  similar 
cutting  on  the  opposite  bank.  All  the  corners  thus  obtained  have 
been  appropriated  to  special  plants,  and  the  diversity  of  positions 
has  assisted  greatly  in  permitting  the  extension  of  the  collection. 
Artificial  Manures  for  Hardy  Plants. 
It  is  customary  to  treat  borders  of  hardy  plants  in  a  very 
general  manner  as  regards  manures.  Farmyard  or  stable  manure  is 
dug  in  before  planting,  and  perhaps  annually  afterwards,  or  is 
applied  as  a  top-dressing.  Some  of  the  special,  mixed  artificial 
manures  are  also  used  occasionally,  but  little  attempt  is  made  to 
systematically  test  and  compare  the  effects  of  any  of  the  chemical 
manures  either  alone  or  in  compounded  form.  Four  substances 
offered  themselves  as  most  likely  to  be  serviceable  in  this  way — 
namely,  superphosphate  of  lime,  sulphate  of  potassium,  nitrate  of 
soda,  and  sulphate  of  ammonia,  of  which  dressings  were  applied  to 
four  plots  before  planting,  four  other  neighbouring  plots  to  be 
occupied  with  similar  plants  being  left  without  any  dressing.  Two 
mixtures  of  the  above-named  manures  were  also  used  in  comparison 
with  other  unmanured  plots,  and  afforded  some  noteworthy  results. 
Before  dealing  with  these,  however,  and  the  respective  quantiiies 
used,  something  must  be  said  about  the  plants  selected  for  the 
various  positions,  and  the  methods  of  increase  adopted,  which 
will  form  the  subject  of  another  letter. — A  Countryman. 
CTo  bi  continued.) 
CROTONS  FOR  EXHIBITION. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  at  the  present  time  there  are  many 
opportunities  for  growers  of  fine-foliaged  plants  to  make  their 
mark,  as  at  all  great  shows  liberal  prizes  are  offered  for  them,  and 
in  not  a  few  instances  some  of  the  prizes  are  unclaimed  through 
lack  of  exhibits.  Although  we  have  a  few  veteran  exhibitors 
whose  colours  it  is  very  hard  indeed  to  lower,  it  is  quite  impossible 
for  them  to  compete  at  aP  the  shows  where  good  prizes  are  offered, 
though  they  frequently  exhibit  at  two  or  three  simultaneously, 
which  division  of  their  forces  must  necessarily  weaken  them,  and 
therefore  give  a  rival  the  opportunity  to  score  a  win.  How 
different  is  the  case  with  exhibitors  of  Chrysanthemums,  Grapes, 
and  vegetables  !  Frequently  we  find  the  exhibits  of  the  former  so 
numerous  that  two-thirds,  and  sometimes  nine-tenths,  fail  to  gain 
an  award,  though  perhaps  in  many  cases  the  produce  staged  is 
scarcely  inferior  to  the  winning  examples. 
Crotons  invariably  prove  to  be  among  the  most  telling  plants 
in  the  big  classes,  and  as  I  have  at  various  times  bad  considerable 
experience  in  the  culture  of  large  specimens  for  exhibition,  I  will 
offer  a  few  remarks  on  the  subject,  which  I  feel  sure  will  be  of 
service  to  many,  and  I  trust  have  the  effect  of  spurring  on  to 
victory  some  young  aspirant  to  that  honourable  fame  that  awaits 
the  skilful  plant  grower.  The  present  is  a  capital  time  to  set  to 
work  in  earnest,  and  thus  lay  a  sound  foundation  for  the  develop¬ 
ment  of  a  future  giant.  When  the  necessary  expense  can  be 
incurred  it  is  sound  policy  to  purchase  half-specimens,  because  if 
properly  handled  in  the  course  of  a  year  or  two  the  exhibitor  may 
begin  to- make  his  mark  ;  whereas  if  a  start  is  made  with  small 
plants  several  years  mast  elapse  before  they  are  quite  up  to 
exhibition  size. 
I  will,  however,  begin  my  cultural  instructions  by  treating  with 
plants  in  a  small  state,  so  that  they  may  be  suitable  for  the  many 
whom  necessity  compels  te  start  with  young  plants.  The  healthiest, 
most  vigorous  and  bushy  ones  at  command  should  be  selected, 
and  if  possible  these  ought  to  be  free  from  insects.  If  they  are 
not  they  must  be  d’ppsd  in  a  solution  of  one  of  the  many  good 
insecticides,  and  after  a  few  days  given  a  thorough  sponging  with 
a  weak  solution  of  loftsoap.  Assuming  that  the  plants  are  well 
rooted,  they  will  then  be  ready  for  potting,  and  may  be  placed  in 
pots  three  sizes  larger  than  those  they  occupy.  Crotons  do  not 
require  a  complicated  mixture  of  soils  to  grow  them  to  perfection. 
I  have  tried  them  in  a  variety  of  composts,  but  found  succeed 
in  nothing  so  well  as  good  fibrous  loam  with  the  finer  portions 
knocked  out,  and  a  little  sharp  sand  and  charcoal  added.  The 
loam  should  be  cut  and  stacked  six  months  before  use,  and 
if  inclined  to  be  heavy,  or  rather  deficient  in  fibre,  one  part  of 
the  best  fibrous  peat  should  be  mixed  with  three  of  loam.  A 
compost  of  this  description  is  perfectly  suitable  for  both  small  and 
large  plants.  The  compost  should  be  used  in  rough  state,  and  be 
pressed  only  moderately  firm  with  a  blunt  stick.  Good  drainage 
must,  as  a  matter  of  course,  be  secured,  but  this  does  not  neces¬ 
sarily  imply  that  a  great  depth  of  it  be  given,  as  the  aim  of  the 
exhibitor  is  to  get  the  largest  poisible  well-developed  plant  in  a 
comparatively  small  pot. 
From  2  to  3  inches  is  an  ample  depth  of  drainage  for  a 
12-inch  pot,  and  so  on  in  proportion.  The  great  point  to  aim 
at  is  to  secure  a  free  outlet  for  water  which  cannot  easily  become 
clogged.  This  can  with  certainty  be  accomplished  by  using  large 
and  well  placed  crocks  at  the  bottom,  finishing  off  with  a  layer  of 
smaller  ones,  and  over  the  whole  placing  a  covering  of  fertilising 
moss.  As  soon  as  the  roots  have  permeated  the  soil  and  are  freely 
coiling  round  the  sides  of  the  pot  the  plants  should  be  repotted 
until  they  are  placed  in  the  largest-sized  pots  or  tubs  intended  for 
them  ;  and  at  the  final  potting,  a  few  lumps  of  charcoal,  about  the 
size  of  walnuts,  ought  to  be  worked  in  as  the  operation  proceeds. 
Crotons,  at  certain  seasons,  require  abundant  supplies  of  water,  ample 
space  should  therefore  be  left  to  hold  a  suffiuient  quantity  at  each 
watering  to  thoroughly  moisten  the  ball  throughout.  This  is  a 
matter  of  vital  importance  in  the  culture  of  large  plants  of  all 
descriptions.  After  potting  the  plants  may  with  advantage  be  plunged 
in  a  bed  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  where  a  bottom  heat  of  from  80° 
to  85°  is  at  command,  but  as  soon  as  growth  is  being  made  freely 
it  is  so  important  to  have  the  plants  near  the  glass  to  insure  good 
colour,  that  it  is  usually  necessary  to  raise  them  on  inverted  pots. 
Where  the  houses  are  low  the  pots  can  often  be  plunged  to  half 
their  depth  while  the  tops  of  the  plants  are  from  1  to  2  feet 
from  the  glass  ;  but  in  all  instances,  for  a  few  weeks  before  they 
are  required  for  exhibition,  they  should  be  lifted  above  the  plunging 
material. 
Abundance  of  heat  and  moisture  are  the  words  I  would  use 
were  I  asked  to  describe  in  a  single  sentence  the  outline  of  Croton 
culture.  The  rock  on  which  many  are  wrecked  is  in  giving  heat 
without  moisture.  In  such  cases  red  spider  and  thrips  play  havoc 
with  the  plants  by  ruining  and  disfiguring  many  of  the 
leaves.  The  temperature  in  winter  should  range  from  60°  to  70°, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  weather.  Under  such  conditions  a 
great  deal  of  damping  of  the  floors  and  the  stages  will  be  required, 
and  whenever  there  is  a  little  sunshine  at  midday  the  plants  should 
be  freely  syringed.  In  summer  the  night  temperature  must  be 
maintained  at  from  65°  to  75°,  and  from  75°  to  80°  by  fire  heat  on 
dull  days.  Little  air  should  be  given  in  the  early  summer 
months,  but  during  August  and  September  a  free  circulation  is 
necessary  to  solidify  the  gfowth  made.  A  slight  amount  of  shade 
is  beneficial,  but  it  should  not  be  given  except  when  absolutely 
necessary.  An  observant  cultivator  will  quickly  discern  exactly 
when  to  give  or  withhold  shade.  During  the  summer  months 
syringing  plays  a  most  important  part  in  Croton  culture.  When  it 
is  done  it  should  be  thorough,  so  as  to  moisten  every  part  of  the 
plant,  especially  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves,  bat  the  water 
must  be  directed  in  a  fine  spray,  so  as  not  to  deluge  the  soil  in 
the  pots,  otherwise  the  frequency  with  which  the  operation 
requires  to  be  performed  will  soon  result  in  sodden  soil  and  decay¬ 
ing  roots.  In  very  bright  weather  syringing  may  with  advantage 
be  performed  three  or  four  times  a  day,  and  sometimes  on  dull  days 
