"  w 
\ 
594  JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  December  ir,  isas. 
written  Ubel  placed  in  the  pot  of  each  variety  of  plant,  or  in  the  case  i 
of  fruit  trees  securely  fastened  on  with  copper  wire  (galvanised  wire 
should  never  be  used  unless  thickly  painted)  in  each  a  position  that 
the  names  may  be  easily  read  from  the  path  or  footway,  care  being 
taken,  however,  that  the  labels  are  not  tied  too  tightly.  I  have  seen 
instances  of  fruit  trees  being  mined  through  an  error  of  this  kind,  the 
wounds  laying  the  foundation  of  canker  and  gumming. — A  Youngster, 
Winter  Flowering  Plants — Euphorbia  tacquiniatflora. 
I  think  a  discussion  on  winter  flowering  plants  would  prove  both 
interesting  and  beneficial  if  young  gardeners  would  express  their 
opinions  on  the  various  plants  in  cultivation. 
Euphorbia  jacquiniaeflora  well  deserves  a  more  prominent  position 
among  oar  winter-flowering  plants  on  account  of  its  free  flowering  habit 
of  growth  and  easy  culture.  This  plant  is  of  great  value  where  cut 
flowers  are  in  demand,  as  the  bright  sprays  last  well  when  placed  in 
water  as  they  do  when  allowed  to  remain  on  the  plant.  At  this  time  of 
the  year  its  intense  scarlet  flowers  are  unsurpassed  by  any  plant  in  culti¬ 
vation.  It  may  be  successfully  grown  in  a  stove  where  the  temperature 
does  not  fall  below  60°  by  night. 
Cuttings  ought  to  be  selected  from  the  young  growths  when  about 
3  inches  in  length  in  spring,  and  removed  with  a  heel  from  the  old 
plants.  They  may  be  inserted  in  small  pots,  well  drained  and  filled 
with  silver  sand,  plunging  these  in  a  bottom  heat  of  70°  to  75°,  keeping 
them  close  for  a  few  weeks  and  well  shaded  from  the  sun.  When  they 
have  taken  root  air  must  be  admitted  freely  yet  thoughtfully.  When 
the  plants  are  well  established  they  may  be  transferred  to  4 -inch  pots, 
placing  them  on  shelves  near  the  glass,  otherwise  their  naturally 
straggling  habit  will  bo  increased.  A  compost  of  three  parts  good 
fibrous  loam,  one  of  peat,  and  one-fifth  of  silver  sand  is  suitable,  but 
when  placing  them  into  their  flowering  pots  a  little  sweet  decayed 
manure  may  be  usefully  added. 
As  the  plants  are  not  disposed  to  branch  much,  it  is  therefore  neces¬ 
sary  for  obtaining  good  specimens  that  the  shoots  be  stopped  or  bent 
down  when  they  are  growing  freely.  By  the  end  of  June  they  should 
be  ready  for  their  final  potting.  Six-iuch  pots  will,  in  many  cases,  be 
found  large  enough.  Soon  afterwards  again  stop  the  shoots,  or  bend  the 
points  down,  which  causes  more  eyes  to  break  into  growth.  As  the 
autumn  advances,  reduce  the  temperature  to  60°  by  night,  allowing  an 
advance  from  5°  to  10°  by  day.  When  the  pots  are  fairly  filled  with 
roots,  give  an  occasional  top-dressing  of  some  approved  artificial  manure, 
and  the  flowers  will  be  greatly  benefited. 
After  flowering,  the  plants  should  be  dried  somewhat,  then  cut  back 
and  placed  in  a  temperature  of  65°  by  night,  giving  only  sufiScient  water 
to  prevent  the  foliage  shrivelling  until  they  have  made  a  few  inches 
of  growth,  when  the  shoots  may  be  taken  off  as  cuttings,  or  if  allowed  to 
remain,  they  will  give  a  succession  of  flowers.  This  plant  is  less  subject 
to  insects  than  many  stove  plants.  Red  spider,  thrips,  scale,  and  mealy 
bug  will  sometimes  attack  Euphorbias,  and  the  best  means  of  destroying 
these  pests  is  by  fumigating  or  syringing,  using  the  XI  All  vapourising 
fnmigator,  or  the  liquid  insecticide. — J.  F.  D.,  WarwicTisMre. 
R.H.S.  Examination. 
“  Young  Gardensr,  ’  on  page  569,  begs  the  question  and  misses  the 
point  which  I  hoped  to  impress  upon  those  who  would  like  to  present 
themselves  for  examination.  I  ask  them  not  to  be  discouraged  by 
adverse  criticism,  but  to  follow  the  example  of  those  practical  young 
gardeners  who  are  high  in  the  lists.  Personally,  1  know  that  one  of  those 
placed  first  in  the  second  division  had  very  little  time  for  study,  never 
more  than  two  honrs  a  day,  and  as  he  missed  the  first  class  by  only  five 
marks  I  conclude  that  others  can  do  the  same.  To  be  in  the  first  twenty 
out  of  152  candidates  seems  to  mo  a  very  respectable  performance.  Is  it 
not  somewhat  rash  of  “  Young  Gardener  ”  to  assume  that  none  of  those 
in  the  first  division  is  practical  gardeners  ? — Practice  with  Science. 
E.H.S.  Exams — Where  There’s  a  Will  There’s  a  Way. 
As  a  working  gardener  I  should  like  to  say  a  few  words  on  the  subject 
broached  by  a  “Young  Gardener  ”  (page  524) — viz.,  E.H.S.  Examina¬ 
tions — college  coaching.  College  coaching  is  useful  as  far  as  it  enables 
one  to  answer  questions  on  paper.  This  is  good  exercise  in  composition, 
which  certainly  tells  in  the  exam.  Given  two  persons  equally  conver¬ 
sant  with  practical  gardening,  the  one  who  is  versed  a  little  in 
theoretical  teaching  and  in  the  art  of  correctly  expressing  his  thoughts 
will  certainly  have  the  better  chance. 
But  there  is  another  side  to  look  at — namely,  the  practical.  Unless 
one  understands  this,  theory  is  of  little  value  ;  but  with  the  practice  of 
daily  work,  combined  with  evening  study  and  perseverance,  I  think  it 
possible  to  become  competent  to  answer  fairly  well  the  questions  asked 
at  the  E.H.S.  examinations. 
With  regard  to  the  length  of  working  hours,  your  correspondent  says, 
“  How  can  men  who  have  to  work  from  6  a.m.  to  6  p.m.,  and  often 
longer  in  summer  time,  expect  to  compete  against  college  students  who 
are  coached  for  the  purpose?”  I  think  I  can  show  him  that  this  is 
possible.  We  (myself  included)  work  from  6  am.  to  6  p.m.  in  summer 
time,  and  I  have  often  been  working  until  8-30.  This  does  not  give 
much  time  for  study  in  summer  ;  but  there  are  the  long  winter  even¬ 
ings,  in  which  there  is  time  for  study. 
If  a  “  Young  Gardener  ”  works  until  6  p.m.  he  can  then,  if  he  tries, 
have  two  or  three  hours  each  evening.  This  time,  made  the  most  of, 
will  make  its  mark.  The  examinations — coming,  as  they  do,  in  May — 
should  be  prepared  for  during  the  winter  by  reading  good  works  on  all 
branches  of  horticulture,  the  life’s  practieal  work  doing  the  remainder. 
This  is  the  time  I  have  had  to  prepare  fcr  the  R.H  S.  examination,  with 
better  results  than  a  “  Young  Gardener  ”  thinks  possible. 
During  previous  winters,  after  working  until  6  p.m.,  I  studied  for 
and  obtained  certificates  in  geometry,  botany,  and  chemistry,  although 
partly  discountenanced  hy  the  head  whom  I  then  worked  under,  I  may 
say  that  I  was  at  the  same  time  qualifying  for  another  subject,  which  'j, 
has  since  led  to  a  certificate  which  is  likely  to  prove  a  help  also.  These  ‘ 
are  a  few  thoughts  which  the  letter  I  have  referred  to  suggested  to  me.  •. 
I  hope  they  will  'nelp  the  writer  of  it  and  others  to  see  that  the  E.H.S. 
examinations  are  a  possibility.  I  also  hope  that  he  will  go  in  and  win,  s 
and  remember  that  “  Where  there’s  a  will  there’s  a  way.”  Should  he  be  | 
successful,  none  will  be  more  pleased  to  hear  of  it  than — Henri.  t 
An  excellent  letter  ,*  both  in  tone  and  in  style  a  credit  to  the  writer,  t 
Sd.1  V 
Apricot,  Peach,  and  XTectarlne  Trees. — The  general  pruning  of  I 
these  stone  fruits  is  best  deferred  until  February,  just  prior  to  the  swell-  1 
ing  and  opening  of  the  flower  buds.  This  should  not  deter,  however,  the  j 
removal  of  branches  or  shoots  which  obviously  rpquire  cutting  out  because  j 
of  their  useless  character.  Reference  is  made  to  crowded  or  exhausted  i 
main  or  secondary  branches,  also  to  younger  wood  or  shoots  that  have  ’ 
borne  the  crop  during  the  current  season,  but  may  not  have  been  removed  j 
earlier.  The  clearing  out  of  the  above  mentioned  is  all  that  should  be  ( 
carried  out  sow  in  the  form  of  pruning  ;  but  the  whole  of  the  remaining  j 
branches  and  growths  may  be  loosened  from  the  wall  or  trellis,  tying  j 
them  in  convenient  bundles  away  from  the  wall  surface.  Not  only  will  " 
this  complete  the  ripening  of  the  bearing  wood,  but  it  prevents  the  pre-  * 
mature  swelling  of  the  flower  buds  later  on.  When  the  trees  are  trained  I 
on  very  sunny,  warm  walls,  the  shelter  afforded  has  a  tendency  to  incite  \ 
early  growth,  whereby  it  may  become  nipped  by  cutting  spring  frosts.  , 
Displacing  the  branches  from  the  wall  now,  and  re-training  as  late  as 
really  safe  without  destruction  to  buds  in  spring,  largely  prevents  pre¬ 
mature  excitement  of  growth 
Strawberries.  —  Any  delay  in  trimming,  dressing,  or  manuring 
Strawberry  beds  should  now  be  overtaken.  It  will  be  necessary  to  fork  i 
out  the  larger  weeds  and  runners  rooted  between  the  rows.  Many  of 
the  older  useless  leaves  may  be  cut  off  wii:h  the  runners,  avoiding  complete 
defoliation.  Afterwards  spread  between  the  plants  a  layer  of  half- 
decayed  farmyard  manure. 
Raspberries. — The  removal  of  old  dead  canes,  and  the  weaker  of 
new  ones  beyond  four  to  six  of  the  strongest  to  each  stool,  may  be  carried  ' 
out.  Tie  in  the  reserved  canes,  shortening  to  5  feet  as  a  rule,  but  some 
of  the  number  may  be  reduced  to  feet,  and  others  to  2  feet,  so  that 
fruit  may  bo  produced  lower  than  is  usually  the  case.  On  trellises, 
spread  out  the  canes  to  equally  cover  the  space.  Cleanse  the  ground 
of  weeds,  and  only  fork  up  the  central  space  between  the  rows  where 
there  are  no  fibrous  masses  of  roots  ;  follow  with  a  liberal  mulching  of 
rich  farmyard  manure.  The  bulk  of  Raspberry  roots  being  so  near  the 
surface  appreciate  this  supply  of  food  material  within  their  reach,  and 
multiply  abundantly,  insuring  good  crops  and  strong  growths  for  the 
future. 
Gooseberries  and  Currants. — The  pruning  of  these  on  walls  or 
on  trellises  In  the  open  may  now  be  completed,  the  lateral  growth  being 
reduced  to  an  inch,  the  leading  shoots  closely  also  if  space  is  filled, 
otherwise  leave  8  or  9  inches  of  the  new  growth  for  extension.  Where 
birds  are  troublesome  to  the  bads,  bush  trees  may  advisedly  be  left  for 
late  pruning.  If  necessary  to  fork  and  manure  the  ground  this  should 
preferably  be  accomplished  now  in  order  to  impart  a  finished  and  tidy 
appearance  to  the  quarters.  In  forking  or  digging  avoid  the  mutilation 
of  roots.  A  fork  is  a  better  implement  than  a  spade  for  use  among 
fruit  trees  and  bushes. 
Apples  and  Pears. — In  pruning  standard  and  half-standard  trees 
the  branches  only  require  regulating,  so  as  to  admit  air  and  sunshine 
freely.  The  importance  of  hush  and  pyramid  trees  having  *he  main 
branches  equally  distributed  is  apparent  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
spurs  take  up  considerable  space,  especially  if  closely  originated,  or  by 
age  have  elongated.  The  annual  pruning  of  such  trees  should  not  only 
be  directed  to  shortening  the  current  year’s  shoots  to  two  or  three  buds, 
but  to  reducing  gradually  the  spurs  within  reasonable  bounds,  thus 
encouraging  the  fruitful  buds  to  develop  near  the  main  branch.  The 
individual  branches  of  espaliers  and  cordons  are  treated  on  similar  lines. 
The  leading  shoots  of  young  trees,  where  extension  of  branches  is 
necessary,  may  in  many  cases,  especially  cordons,  be  left  full  length. 
Those  which  need  shortening  may  be  reduced  to  half  their  length,  the 
maturity  of  the  wood  being  a  good  guide  as  to  the  length  it  is  desirable 
to  leave. 
Applying  Xilqnld  Manure.  — Liquid  fertilising  material  ought 
not  to  be  applied  indiscriminately  to  all  trees.  Large  old  trees  that 
I  need  considerable  support  are  benefited  most.  The  roots  are  deep,  and 
