December  17,  1806. 
.or^R^AL  OP  HORl'IOVLftyRP  AND  COfTAOP  GARDPNPR. 
595 
soluble  matter  from  the  turface  does  not  so  easily  reach  them  as  it  can 
the  roots  of  trees  vfhich  extend  in  the  upper  layers  of  soil.  Specimens 
requiring:  extra  support  mostly  make  but  little  annual  wood,  and  frait 
buds  develop  weakly.  This  is  a  clear  indication  that  food  in  the  soil 
is  limited  or  not  available,  probably  owing  to  dryness  in  the  soil  or  sub¬ 
soil  where  the  roots  extend.  In  such  cases  soakings  of  water  followed 
by  liquid  manure  or  sewage  prove  most  effective.  Young  trees  and 
others  forming  sufficient  wood  of  a  vigorous  character  are  not  benefited 
by  applications  of  a  stimalating  nature  in  winter,  but  when  the  extent, 
of  the  enrrent  year’s  wood  ir.  less  than  a  foot,  and  fruit  buds  form  at  the 
extremities  instead  of  the  base,  the  roots  are  not  so  active  as  desirable. 
Enriching  the  soil  either  with  liquid  man  are  or  mulchings  of  solid 
manure  may  probably  induce  freer  growth  n®xc  season. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines. —  Eaily  Forced  Vines  in  Pots. — If  the  pots  are  placed  on 
pillars  in  the  pits  the  fermenting  material  will  need  frequent  add!  ions 
as  the  beat  declines,  bringing  the  material  up  about  the  pots,  so  as  to 
maintain  a  steady  bottom  heat  of  Itf  to  75°.  Too  much  heat  at  the 
roots  is  injurious  at  this  stage.  A  gentle  warmth,  hov.^ever,  accelerates 
root  action,  and  admits  of  higher  feeding  than  when  the  roots  are  not 
excited  into  activity.  The  temperature  of  the  house  will  have  been 
gradually  raised,  so  as  to  have  it  fiO°  to  65°  at  night  by  the  time  the 
Vines  are  coming  into  leaf,  allowing  an  advance  of  6°  to  10®  by  day, 
admitting  a  little  air  at  70°  without  lowering  the  temperatnre  or 
causing  kn  inrush  of  cold  sharp  air,  and  closing  early  in  the  afternoon. 
Disbud  as  soon  ai  the  bunches  can  be  detected,  re.serving  the  most 
promising.  Stop  the  growth  about  two  joints  beyond  the  bunches, 
allowing  a  leaf  or  two  more  where  there  is  room.  Remove  the  laterals 
up  to  the  bunches,  and  allow  those  beyond  to  extend  as  space  permits 
without  crowding,  it  being  important  that  the  foliage  have  full  exposure 
to  light  and  air,  encouraging  that  amonnt  only.  Two  or  three  joints  of 
lateral  extension  are  sujfficient  for  fruiting  Vines  in  pots,  the  crop 
preventing  further  extension.  If  the  Vines  show  two  or  more  bnnehea 
on  a  shoot  remove  the  least  promising  before  they  flower,  and  do  not 
allow  more  to  remain  than  will  be  necessary  for  the  crop.  Damp  the 
floors  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon.  Where,  however, 
fermenting  materials  are  employed  the  nece.silty  of  damping  will  not  be 
so  great  as  where  the  heat  is  solely  derived  from  hot-water  pipes.  In 
the  latter  case  the  evaporation  troughs  should  be  filled  with  guano  water, 
1  lb.  to  20  gallons  of  water,  or  clear  liquid  manure  from  stables  or  cow 
byres,  and  that  may  also  be  employed  for  damping  the  floors  after 
closing  the  house  or  early  in  the  afternoon,  neat  drainings  requiring  to 
be  diluted  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water. 
Ear  y  Forced  Planted  ont  Vines. — These  start  less  promptly,  as  a 
rule,  than  Vines  in  pots  with  gentle  warmth  at  the  roots,  especially 
those  which  have  not  previously  been  subjected  to  early  forcing,  and 
they  should  not  be  hurried,  lime  being  allowed  them  to  insure  an  even 
break  and  sturdy  growifa.  The  buds  of  those  started  last  month  are 
now  moving,  and  another  good  watering  must  be  given  the  inside  border, 
unless  already  sufficiently  moist.  Raise  the  temperature  to  5.5°,  and 
increase  it  a  degree  or  two  daily,  so  as  to  have  it  60°  to  65°  at  night 
when  the  Vines  are  producing  their  leaves.  In  forcing  to  time  it  is 
sometimes  necessary  to  induce  growth  by  a  brisk  moist  beat  of  70°  to 
75°,  continuing  it  until  the  buds  have  fairly  started  growing,  then 
allowing  it  to  fall  to  60°  to  65°,  with  5“  to  10°  rise  in  the  daytime.  This 
is  important,  a  moderate  temperature  being  essential  to  secure  short- 
jointed  wood  and  stout  well  developed  foliage,  b.ut  a  dose  atmosphere  is 
very  prejudicial,  and  catting  currents  of  air  eqeally  disastrous ;  therefore 
ventilate  carefully  and  early,  seeking  advancement  and  solidification  of 
the  growth  under  sunshine,  closing  early,  so  as  to  husband  the  sun  heat 
as  much  as  possible.  Outside  borders  must  be  protected  against  cold 
rains  and  melting  snow.  A  6-inch  thickness  of  dry  leaves,  with  a  little 
litter  over  them  to  prevent  their  blowing  about,  is  effective,  especially 
when  covered  with  spare  lights. 
House  to  Aff  ,rd  Ripe  Fivit  in  May. — This  mast  be  started  at 
once,  as  five  months  are  required  from  commencing  to  finish  ;  quicker 
time  only  needlessly  strains  the  Vines.  A  bed  of  leaves  and  stable  litter 
placed  on  the  floor  of  the  house,  turning  a  portion  of  it  dally,  so  as  to 
supply  ammonia  vapour  to  the  atmosphere  ;  prevent  drying  of  the 
material  ;  a  steady  “soft  glow  of  moisture,”  is  a  saving  of  fuel,  and 
conduces  to  a  good  break.  Outside  borders  must  have  the  needful  pro¬ 
tection  from  frost.  A  few  inches  thickness  of  dry  leaves  and  a  little  litter 
over  them  answer  when  the  Vines  are  planted  inside;  but  wtcrethe 
border  is  all  outside  a  covering  of  warm  litter  is  preferable,  two-thirds  of 
leav38  to  one  of  stable  litter  affording  a  less  violent  but  more  lasting  heat 
than  manure  alone,  adding  fresh  as  necessary.  The  inside  border  must 
be  rendered  evenly  moist  by  appljii  g  tepid  water  or  liquid  manure. 
Start  with  a  night  temperature  of  50°  in  severe  weather,  55°  in  mild 
weather,  and  65°  by  day,  except  the  weather  be  cold,  when  55°  will'be 
more  suitable.  This  slow  work  is  better  than  a  forcing  heat,  which 
induces  a  weak  growth  ;  and,  except  for  special  purpose,  we  do  not 
advise  those  temperatures  to  be  exceeded  until  the  growth  commences. 
Depress  young  Vines  to  the  horizontal  line,  or  lower,  to  insure  the  regular 
breaking  of  the  buds.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by  syringing  daily, 
but  avoid  excessive  moisture  and  keeping  the  Vines  ufipping  wet, 
which,  excites  the  production  of  aerial  roots  from  the  rods, 
Mids  ason  House. — The  Vine*  should  be  pruned  and  at  rest ;  if  not, 
complete  the  work,  and  cleanse  the  house.  Where  the  Grapes  are 
partially  cut  the  remainder  may  be  removed  with  a  good  portion  of 
wood  attached,  and  if  the  stems  are  inserted  in.  bottles  of  water  the  ’ 
bunches  will  keep  admirably  in  a  dry  room  from  which  frost  is  excluded. 
Thua  the  Vines  will  be  liberated  for  pnining,  and  the  house  for  cleansing, 
repairs,  and  painting,  A  long  and  complete  rest  invigorates  Vines,  and 
early  pruning  effects  that  better  than  anything  else. 
Late  Houses. — Vines  that  have  the  foliage  all  off  will  only  require 
a  temperature  of  50°  for  Mnscats,  and  40°  to  50°  for  thick-skinned  Grapes. 
Black  Hamburghs  shrivel  in  dry  heat,  suffice  that  they  be  kept  from 
frost,  and  moisture  not  allowed  to  condense  on  the  berries. 
Cherry  House. — Houses  that  are  to  be  employed  for  supplying 
ripe  Cherries  from  the  middle  of  April  onwards  must  now  be  closed.  Be 
sparing  of  fire  heat  at  the  commencement,  not  employing  it  unless 
necessary  to  maintain  the  temperature  at  from  35°  to  40°  at  night,  and 
40°  to  45°  by  day,  ventilating  when  the  temperature  is  about  50°  to  5.5°. 
Close  the  house  when  the  temperature  is  at  60°.  Syringe  the  trees  and 
other  surfaces  early  on  tine  afternoons,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  buds 
becoming  dry  before  nightfall.  The  border  will  be  sufficiently  moist  for 
some  time  through  the  removal  of  the  roof  lights  ;  if  not,  it  must  have 
water  to  bring  it  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state.  Trees  in  pots,  if  at  all 
dry,  will  require  repeated  supplies  of  water  to  secure  the  thorough  mois¬ 
tening  of  the  soil  to  the  base  of  the  pots. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Freeslas. — As  these  start  into  growth  they  should  be  placed  on  a 
shelf  moderately  close  to  the  glass  wher6  the  temperature  does  not 
exceed  50°.  If  the  tubers  have  been  covered  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse 
until  they  started  into  growth  light  must  be  admitted  to  them  gradually 
until  the  stems  are  green.  This  is  best  done  by  standiug  them  at  the 
base  of  some  house  or  pit  where  the  temperature  is  suitable  If  required 
to  flower  in  succession  the  maj  irity  of  the  plants  should  be  allowed  to 
come  forward  under  cool  conditions. 
Primula  obconlca. — This  plant  does  better  where  the  temperature 
ranges  from  45°  to  50°  at  night  than  in  a  perfectly  cool  house  where 
frost  only  is  excluded.  In  the  latter  the  foliage  assumes  a  sickly  yellow 
appearance ;  in  fact  the  plants  are  starved.  By  the  aid  of  gentle  warmth 
growth  continues,  and  flowers  are  very  freely  produced. 
Chrysanthemum  Cuttings. —As  cuttings  can  be  obtained  they 
should  be  inserted  without  delay  before  they  become  drawn  or  weakly. 
All  kinds  needed  for  the  production  of  large  blooms  ought  to  be  inserted 
singly  in  thumb  pots  filled  with  a  light  sandy  soil.  They  root  so  freely 
that  scarcely  one  will  be  lost  if  placed  under  hand-lights  stood  in  a  cool 
Peach  house  or  vinery.  When  propagated  under  cool  conditions  there 
is  no  fear  of  the  young  plants  receiving  a  check  during  the  process  of 
hardening.  Those  needed  for  decorative  purposes  may  be  inserted 
thickly  together  in  hand-lights  lu  which  a  few  inches  of  light  soil  has 
been  inserted.  Directly  these  are  rooted  they  should  be  potted  singly, 
or  two  or  three  placed  together  in  each  pot.  Free-flowering  kinds  only 
should  be  selected  for  bushes  when  allowed  to  grow  and  flower  in  a 
natural  manner. 
Xtillum  candldum. — Plants  that  were  potted  will  be  now  showing 
their  flower  stems.  These  should  be  given  a  temperature  of  45°  to  50°, 
where  they  will  grow  slowly.  These  plants  must  not  be  hurried  in 
their  present  stage,  or  they  will  be  spoiled.  Give  air  dai;y  when  the 
weather  is  favourable  to  insure  steady  growth.  Watch  for  aphides,  and 
destroy  them  at  once  by  fumigating  with  tobacco  smoke. 
Xiillum  Harrlsl. — If  not  removed  from  the  ashes  in  which  they 
were  plunged  when  potted  these  should  be  taken  out  at  once.  Stand 
them  for  a  time  in  a  greenhouse  until  their  stems  are  green,  and  then 
place  them  on  a  shelf  close  to  the  glass.  We  find  these  plants  always 
start  best  in  a  frame  with  the  surface  of  the  pots  covered  with  2  inches 
of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse.  In  this  position  the  plants  remain  until  they 
grow  through,  and  then  they  can  be  removed  and  placed  direct  upon  a  shelf. 
Water  as  soon  as  the  pots  are  removed  from  the  plunging  material,  and 
be  careful  not  to  allow  them  to  become  dry  afterwards.  Select  from  the 
earliest  batch  the  most  forward  plants,  and  place  them  in  the  temperature 
advised  for  L.  caudidnm.  Under  these  conditions  the  plants  will  move 
forward  and  flower  early. 
Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  XtTarolssi. — These  and  other  bulbous 
plants  plunged  under  ashes  should  be  removed  if  ready  before  the 
material  in  which  they  have  been  placed  becomes  thoroughly  frozen. 
Those  not  ready  should  have  a  good  layer  of  litter  covered  over  them,  so 
that  they  can  be  examinel  and  removed  when  sufficient  roots  have  been 
made.  Those  thatare  removed  must  have  light  admitted  to  them  gradnally, 
but  be  careful  not  to  place  them  close  to  hot-water  pipes  that  may  be 
used  to  keep  out  frost.  In  such  positions  they  become  unduly  excited 
and  dried.  The  later  plants  of  the  early  Roman  Hyacinths  will  move 
forward  rapidly  enough  under  greenhouse  treatment,  unless  an  (xtra 
quantity  are  needed  for  any  special  purpose.  Early  Tulips  for  Christmas 
may  be  pushed  forward  in  the  forcing  house  if  sufficient  heat  is  main¬ 
tained  ;  if  not  place  them  in  the  propagating  house.  If  the  plants  have 
been  properly  prepared  and  are  well  rooted  heat  will  not  harm  them. 
TRADE  CATALOGUES  RECEIVED. 
Dicksons,  Ltd.,  Chester. —  ’’^rees  and  Shrubs, 
W.  Fell  &  Co.,  Hexham. — Trees  and  Shrubs. 
Hogg  Ac  Robertson,  22,  St.  Mary  Street,  Dublin.~7'W«^  Trees  and 
Conifers. 
J.  Sharpe  &  Son,  Bardney,  Lincoln. —  Wholesale  Seed  Catalogue, 
Stuart  &  Mein,  Kelso. — Amat  urs'  Oard-ning  Guide. 
Sutton  &  Sons,  Reading. — Amateurs'  Guide  to  Hor.icnltu.re, 
