December  24,  !896. 
JOUBNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
617 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peactaes  and  xrectarlnes. — Earlieitt  House, — The  trees  in  the 
house  started  at  the  beginning  of  the  month,  and  having  been  forced 
from  the  same  period  the  previous  season,  will  now  have  the  blossom 
bnds  well  advanced  towards  flowering,  when  syringing  the  trees  must 
cease,  but  maintain  a  genial  atmosphere  in  the  strcctiire  by  damping 
the  floors  and  borders  on  fine  mornings  and  in  the  early  part  of  bright 
afternoons.  If  inside  borders  are  found  upon  examination  at  all  dry, 
give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  at  a  temperature  slightly  in  advance  of 
that  of  the  house.  Weakly  trees  may  have  liquid  manure,  supplying  it 
rather  thick  after  the  soil  has  been  made  properly  moist  with  water. 
Where  there  is  a  redundancy  of  blossoms  remove  those  on  the  under  side 
or  back  of  the  shoots,  and  thin  them  elsewhere  where  too  crowded. 
Admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  this,  with  the 
warmth  in  the  hot- water  pipes,  will  keep  the  air  in  motion,  and  moisture 
will  be  deposited  on  the  glass  instead  of  on  the  blossoms,  as  frequently 
occurs  in  a  close  atmosphere,  to  the  prejudice  of  their  setting  fruit.  The 
temperature  may  l)e  maintained  at  56°  by  day  and  50°  at  night  in  mild 
weather,  but  .6°  less  in  severe  weather  is  more  favourable  to  the  trees 
than  the  higher  tern reratnre,  and  the  setting  is  not  prejudiced  if  the 
temperature  fall  to  45°  at  night,  or  in  very  sharp  weather  to  40"',  It  is 
necessary  when  the  flowers  show  the  anthers  clear  of  the  petals  that  the 
house  be  freely  ventilated,  avoiding  cold  draughts,  and  not  exciting  the 
trees  by  too  much  fire  heat. 
To  keep  them,  however,  in  steady  progress  the  temperature  must  be 
raised  early  in  the  day  to  60°,  and  kept  between  that  and  55°  through 
the  day.  The  aim  should  be  to  have  stout  blossoms,  sturdy  stamens  well 
raised  above  the  pistil,  loaded  with  abundance  of  pollen,  well  developed 
pistil,  and  properly  formed  ov.ary,  Tnese  all  require  time  to  develop, 
and  aeration  for  tiieir  perfecting,  then  recourse  can  be  had  to  shaking 
the  trellis  or  brushing  over  the  blossoms  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush  on  fine 
days  after  the  house  has  been  ventilated  for  some  little  time.  The  pollen 
by  either  of  these  processes  is  distributed  in  a  golden  shower,  visible  in 
the  sunlight,  and  when  this  is  the  case  the  set  is  generally  a  good  one, 
even  without  artificial  impregnation  ;  and  sometimes  the  disturbance  of 
the  air  by  lightly  syringing  the  trees  serves  to  effect  the  setting  in  a 
satisfactory  manner. 
Second  Early  House. — To  have  ripe  fruit  of  the  second  early  and 
midseason  varieties  at  the  end  of  May  or  early  in  June  the  trees  must  be 
started  without  delay,  but  it  is  desirable  to  merely  close  the  house,  and 
only  employ  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost  during  the  first  fortnight,  ventilat¬ 
ing  freely  at  and  above  50°.  This  will  gently  incite  the  sap  and  buds. 
Afterwards,  say  at  the  New  Year,  fire  heat  should  be  employed  to  main¬ 
tain  a  night  temperature  of  40°,  and  to  insure  50°  by  day,  above  which 
ventilate  freely.  This  will  bring  the  trees  on  suflficiently  fast  to  insure 
sturdy  blossom,  and  once  they  make  a  start  it  is  necessary  to  keep  them 
In  steady  progress.  Sprinkle  the  trees  on  fine  mornings  and  afternoons, 
but.in  dull  weather  omit  the  afternoon  syringing,  as  keeping  the  trees 
constantly  dripping  with  moisture  has  a  softening  and  weakening 
tendency,  favouring  wood  rather  than  blossom.  If  the  bouse  has  had 
the  roof-lights  removed  the  inside  borders  will  have  been  thoroughly 
moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  and  not  need  water  for  some  weeks ; 
but  where  the  roof-lights  are  fixed  the  border  may  need  a  thorough 
supply  of  water,  and  if  dry  it  will  be  necessary  to  repeat  the  applications, 
for  nothing  short  of  thorough  moisture  in  the  border  ought  to  satisfy  the 
Peach  grower.  Outside  borders  should  be  protected  against  frost,  a  fe  v 
inches  thickness  of  dry  leaves,  with  a  little  litter  over  them,  answers 
admirably. 
Suocession.  Houses. — The  trees  are  best  pruned  and  dressed  after 
loosening  them  from  the  trellis.  Cut  out  weak  attenuated  branches,  and 
where  weak,  thin  them  well,  leaving  eufiicient  of  last  year’s  growths  for 
l)earing,  with  space  between  them  for  training  in  those  intended  to  dis¬ 
place  them.  Thoroughly  wash  the  house,  the  trees  wit’n  soapy  water,  and, 
rf  necessary,  apply  an  insecticide,  for  aphides,  red  spider,  thrips  and  scale 
lurk  about  the  trees  in  some  form  ready  to  become  active,  and  multiply 
when  forcing  operations  are  commenced.  Secure  the  branches  at  once 
to  the  trellis,  leaving  space  in  the  respective  ligatures  for  the  swelling  of 
the  branches  and  shoots.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil  down  to  the 
roots  without  disturbing  them,  and  supply  good  turfy  loam  in  lumps  from 
the  size  of  a  nut  to  an  egg,  with  an  admixture  of  about  a  fourth  of  well 
decayed  manure,  not  covering  them  more  than  2  or  3  inches.  If  the  trees 
are  disposed  to  make  long-jointed  wood,  it  is  advisable  to  avoid  nitro¬ 
genous  manures,  also  potassic,  especially  in  nitrate  form,  and  supply  bone 
meal,-  which  will  furnish  phosphoric  acid  or  phosphate  of  lime,  tending 
to  promote  sturdier  growth,  and  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  lime  or 
tendency  to  soarness  in  the  soil,  sulphate  of  lime  or  gypsum  may  be  used 
advantageously  as  a  top-dressing  at  the  rate  of  Tibs,  per  rod.  These 
substances  are  useful  in  the  case  of  gummy  affections,  taking  equal  pro¬ 
portions  of  steamed  bonemeal  and  gypsum,  and  applying  at  the  rate  of 
half  a  pound  per  square  yard  at  the  time  of  pruning  the  trees — autumn 
or  early  winter.  This  will  give  time  for  the  elements  supplied  to  act  on 
the  soil  and  become  available  by  when  the  trees  start  into  growth.  On 
the  other  hand,  where  trees  have  made  too  little  wood,  and  are  more 
prolific  of  fruit  than  desirable  for  attaining  to  a  good  size,  the  borders 
may  be  dressed  with  a  combined  phospbatic,  potassic  and  sulphatic 
manure.  Carefully  examine  inside  borders  and  supply  a  thorough  soaking 
of  water  if  dry,  as  dryness  at  the  roots  will  cause  the  buds  to  fall  later 
on.  Keep  the  houses  as  cool  as  possible,  so  as  to  insure  complete  rest. 
Pigs. — 'Very  early  Figs  are  best  secured  from  trees  in  pots,  as  they 
can  be  given  slight  warmth  at  the  roots  and  be  kept  in  steady,  pro¬ 
gressive  growth.  There  are  not  many  that  force  well  in  their  first  crop, 
some  varieties  casting  theirs  wholesale  and  are  anything  but  reliable. 
Early  Violet,  Angelique  (Madeleine),  and  St.  John’s  have  small  fruit ; 
Pingo  <le  Mel,  Brown  Turkey,  and  White  Marseilles  have  medium  to  large 
fruits.  All  are  good  first  crop  varieties,  and  force  well  when  brought  on 
gradually  and  not  subjected  ti)  too  much  heat  in  the  early  stages.  This 
is  apt  to  occur  with  bottom  heat,  and  the  heat  about  the  pots  being 
more  than  70°  during  the  early  part  of  the  forcing  process  the  growth  is 
too  rapid.  The  embryo  Figs  also  swell  freely,  but,  not  having  time  for 
the  proper  development  of  the  floral  organs  they  are  cast.  This  defect 
can  only  be  avoided  by  thoroughly  ripened  growths,  sparse  or  no  second 
crops,  and  steady,  progressive  advancement  in  forcing.  Until  the  leaves 
are  unfolding  the  heat  at  the  roots  should  not  exceed  70°  at  the  base  of 
the  pots  ;  then  it  may  be  increased  to  75°,  giving  an  atmospheric 
temperature  of  70°  to  76°.  That  is  quite  sufficient,  the  fermenting 
material  being  added  to  as  required  to  maintain  the  heat  regularly. 
The  temperature  of  the  house  should  be  increased  by  degrees  to 
60°  at  night,  65°  by  day  by  artificial  means  in  severe  weather,  5° 
more  in  mild  weather,  70°  to  75°  with  sun  and  moderate  ventilation, 
closing  at  75°  ;  but  in  mild  weather  a  little  air  must  be  admitted  at  60° 
to  65° — just,  a  “crack”  at  the  top  of  the  house  to  let  out  pent-up 
moisture  and  insure  a  circulation.  In  cold  weather  the  pipes  radiating 
heat  will  keep  the  air  in  motion  and  the  moisture  will  be  condensed  on 
the  glass,  therefore  ventilation  is  not  then  required.  Be  careful,  how¬ 
ever,  not  to  bring  on  the  growth  too  rapidly,  especially  in  dull  weather, 
.as  foliage  produced  under  such  conditions  is  not  of  stout  texture,  but 
large  and  thin,  possessing  little  elaborative  power,  and  is  very  susceptible 
to  external  damage,  often  scorching  and  becoming  infested  with  red 
spider.  Afford  water  whenever  necessary — always  in  a  tepid  state. 
Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon,  so  as  to  have  the 
foliage  dry  before  nightfall,  but  avoid  excessive  moisture,  damping  the 
house  only  in  severe  weather. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — When  the  crowns  commence  swelling 
and  the  trusses  appear  the  temperature  may  be  advanced  a  few  degrees 
by  day,  but  60°  to  65°  is  sufficiently  high  at  night.  Syringe  the  plants 
lightly  in  the  early  part  of  fine  afternoons.  Examine  them  daily,  and 
supply  water  to  all  that  require  it.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides, 
and  if  any  appear  fumigate  the  house  on  two  consecutive  evenings.  It 
is  very  important  that  the  plants  be  perfectly  clean,  and  fumigation 
must  not  be  practised  when  they  are  in  flower.  Another  batch  of  plants 
should  he  placed  in  a  house  from  which  frost  is  excluded,  removing  the 
decayed  leaves,  and  the  surface  soil  should  be  loosened  and  a  top- 
dressing  supplied,  a  little  dissolved  bones  being-  excellent.  Attend  to 
the  drainage  ;  if  defective  rectify  it,  and  wash  the  pots.  The  plants  may 
be  introduced  during  the  next  three  weeks  to  a  Peach  house  or  Straw¬ 
berry  house  for  affording  ripe  fruit  early  in  April.  La  Grosse  Sucr^e, 
Royal  Sovereign,  Vicomteise  Hericart  de  Thury,  and  Noble  are  suitable 
varieties. 
Plants  for  starting  later  will  he  quite  safe  in  their  quarters  outdoors, 
plunging  in  ashes  to  the  rim  of  the  pots,  and  a  light  covering  of  dry 
fern  or  litter  may  be  given  in  severe  weather,  removing  it  when  the 
weather  is  mild.  If  the  plants  are  placed  in  frames  the  lights  should  be 
drawn  off  in  mild  weather,  but  in  cold  and  wet  the  lights  should  be 
tilted.  The  plants  cannot  be  kept  too  cool,  and  none  should  be  allowed 
to  suffer  for  want  of  water. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Summer  Bedding  Plants. — A  mild  winter  is  not  always  the  best 
as  far  as  keeping  tender  bedding  plants  is  concerned.  Damp  is  very 
destructive  among  .^onal  Pelargoniums  especially,  and  these  ought, 
therefore,  to  be  kept  rather  dry  at  the  roots,  and  all  decaying  leaves 
picked  off  whenever  seen.  They  keep  best  in  a  house  where  a  little 
fire  heat  is  maintained  and  the  top  ventilators  open  during  the  daytime. 
Give  shrubby  Calceolarias,  Yiolas,  Pentstemons,  Antirrhinums,  and  Car¬ 
nations  in  frames  abundance  of  air  with  a  view  to  checking  premature 
growth,  and  protect  well  from  severe  frosts.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to 
subject  any  of  them  to  fire  heat.  Carnations  ought  to  be  raised  well  up 
to  the  glass  in  pits  or  frames,  have  all  dead  leaves  picked  off,  and  be 
fumigated  occasionally  if  green  fly  is  seen  on  them.  Bedding  Lobelias 
also  object  to  much  fire  heat,  and  should  never  be  very  dry  at  the  roots, 
otherwise  the  growths  harden  and  flower  early,  whereas  the  young 
shoots  to  be  propagated  should  be  succulent  and  fresh.  A  warm  green¬ 
house  suits  Heliotropes  and  Ageratums,  and  only  old  plants  of  the 
former  should  be  kept  somewhat  dry  at  the  roots.  Such  heat-loving 
planta  as  Iresines,  Coleuses,  and  Alternantheras  winter  most  surely  on 
shelves  in  plant  stovss  and  forcing  houses,  receiving  only  enough  water 
to  keep  them  fresh  in  appearance. 
Transplanting  Bulbs. — Fine  weather  in  November  has  been  moss 
favourable  for  lifting,  dividing,  and  transplanting  established  clamps  of 
various  bulbs,  but  it  is  rot  yet  too  late  to  divide  and  replant  clumps 
that  are  either  becoming  crowded  or  present  a  sickly  appearance. 
