JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTDRL  ANI'y  OOTTAGF  GARDFL...., 
m 
Dcpembc''  31, 
to  have  a  few  good  blooms  than  a  quantity  of  small  flowers.  On  each 
side  of  a  bad  wiil  be  a  shoot  which  serves  as  a  background  for  the  bloom. 
If  the  tip  of  this  shoot  be  pinched  oat  much  finer  blooms  are  had. 
Gardenias  should  if  posKible  have  a  house  to  themselves.  They  are 
subject  to  various  insects,  especially  mealy  bug.  I  find  the  best  method 
of  eradicating  this  pest  is  to  go  carefully  over  the  plants  with  a  soft 
brush  and  a  little  methylated  spirit.  One  touch  with  this  spirit  means, 
instant  death  to  the  bug.  Frequent  syringing:  with  Fir  tree  oil  and  a 
small  quantity  of  petroleum,  kept  well  mixed  with  the  water,  keeps  the 
plants  clean  withont  iajuring  them  if  followed  by  clear  water.  When 
they  are  much  infested  by  all  means  turn  them  on  their  sides,  and 
syringe  thoroughly  with  a  wineglassful  of  petroleum  to  a  large  can  of 
water.  It  is  safest  to  syringe  again  with  clear  water,  also  to  shade  for  a 
few  holers  after  syringing  with  paraffin  (petrolenm),  as  the  plants  are 
liaole  to  be  scorched  if  exposed  to.  the  hot  sun. — Dunelm. 
Try  A(.ain. 
“  Try  again.”  Thank  you  very  much  for  your  kind  Invitation.  I 
will  try  again,  and  let  me  hope  yet  again,  many  times.  It  must  be  a 
pleasure  to  old  as  well  as  young  gardeners  to  see  signs  of  energy  in  our 
ranks.  No  doubt  this  page  is  the  first  sought  after  by  young  gardeners 
as  they  take  up  the  Journal.  Let  us  hope  it  will  be  the  means  of  their 
becoming  more  assiduous  in  duty  and  at  the  same  time  more  studious. 
We  mast  not  neglect  reading  and  mentally  digesting  the  many  fine 
articles  by  our  elders  that  are  published  week  by  week.  We  must  study 
those  articles  very  closely,  so  that  in  time  to  come,  when  difficulties 
present  themselves,  we  may  be  able  to  surmount  them.  We  cannot 
know  what  future  is  in  store  for  us  ;  for  some  it  will  be  bright,  but  for 
others,  sooth  to  say,  it  may  be  the  reverse.  This  page  in  the  Journal 
will,  it  seems  to  me,  be  the  means  of  developing  brains,  which  wou’d 
perhaps  have  remained  dormant.  It  will  set  us  thinking  more,  and  our 
thoughts  may  lead  to  action. 
No  doubt  many  of  us  have  said  to  ourselves,  “  I  should  like  to  send  a 
contribution  to  the  Journal,”  but  from  lack  of  confidence  and  fear  of 
criticism  the  one  small  spark  of  thought  had  almost  died  out,  bat  now 
it  is  active.  We  need  fear  no  harsh  criticism,  and  we  shall  gain  confi¬ 
dence  by  experience.  Endeavours,  too,  to  impart  information  shouid 
stimulate  to  great  7;eal  in  our  daily  work,  and  those  to  whom  we  are 
responsible  will  then  place  more  trust  in  ns.  Let  us  be  diligent  in  duty, 
in  self-improvement  persevering.  Let  us  try  and  picture  to  ourselves 
what  the  Journal  will  be  like  twelve  months  hence ;  what  the  domain 
will  be ;  whether  any  of  us  will  be  entitled  to  leave  it  and  enter  tbe 
wider  literary  arena,  where  we  shall  be  open  to  criticism,  and  able  to 
cope  with  any  friendly  antagonist. 
Remember,  young  gardeners,  that  some  of  us  will  be  the  custodians 
of  tbe  ancient  honours  of  gardening  when  our  elders  are  no  more.  Tbey 
will  not  always  be  with  us.  May  we  so  prepare  ourselves  by  diligence,, 
attentiveness  and  industry,  that  we  shall  follow  worthily  in  tbeir 
footsteps,  overcoming  difficulties,  as  they  have  done,  and  are  doing  now. 
I  have  tried  again,  shall  I  succeed  this  t-^me  ?  Young  gardeners,  if  you 
have  sent  a  contribution  to  the  .Journal,  and  have  uot  as  yet  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  it  published,  do  not  be  down-hearted  ;  but  try  again. 
Let  us,  in  fact,  keep  on  trying — trying  to  inaprove  in  all  things  worthy, 
in  the  hope  that  we  shall  coma  out  victors  at  last.  —  Semper. 
[A  creditable  “  try  again.”  The  young  aspirant  will  learn  in  time  to 
avoid  the  undue  repetition  of  ideas  and  terms  of  expression  (eliminated)  ; 
then,  with  sound  knowledge  and  good  judgment,  he  may  eventually 
hope  to  cope  with  the  critics  he  at  present  fears  in  the  wider  literary 
arena.  The  old  warriors  are  too  chivalrous  to  attack  him  in  bis  own 
domain.  The  compositors  have  this  time  omitted  half  tbe  signature  of 
our  correspondent ;  very  intelligent  men  are  these — tbey  see  that  this 
second  contribution  puts  the  first  half  of  the  nom,  de  plnmi;  out  of  date. 
We  believe  they  also  regard  the  writing  of  good  English  as  a  condition 
precedent  to  indulgence  in  Latin.  If  “  Semper”  is  a  man  of  metal  he 
wiil  endeavour  to  profit  by  correc’ion,  and  try  “yet  again.”] 
.  PREtJERVINO  THE  BEST. 
“  The  Young  Gardeners’ Domain  ”  is  a  novel  feature — a  bold  step 
onward  from  the  timeworn  path,  and  many  may  benefit  by  it  if  they 
will. 
To  insure  preservation  of  the  well- written  articles  of  the  “Old  Boy” 
I  have  cut  them  out.  and  pasted  in  a  spare  sixpenny  exercise  book  for 
future  reference.  I  purpose  entering  in  another  bock  articles  on  plant, 
fruit,  and  vegetable  culture  from  the  pena^  of  experienced  men,  then  as 
occasion  permits  testing  their  teaching  'by  practice,  and  recording 
results.  This  manipulation  may  not  be  appreciated  by  the  Editor,  but 
“  a  bird  in  the  hand  is  worth  two  in  the  bush  ;  ”  and  who  can  estimate 
the  value  of  a  book  of  concentrated  facta  on  various  professional  topics 
from  the  best  writers  ?  It  may  prove  to  the  young  gardener  a 
veritable  mine  of  wealth.  However  pri;'."d  weekly  periodicals  may  be, 
we  cannot  preserve  them  in  entirety  as  we  move  hither  and  thither  in 
search  of  experience,  hence  my  endeavour  to  preserve  what  I  think  the 
best  portions. 
May  I  tender  to  Editor  and  contributors  best  wishes  for  a  bright 
and  prosperous  New  Year. — H.  T. 
[The  Editor,  on  behalf  of  young  gardeners,  reciprocates  the  good 
withes,  and  has  no  objection  to  the  proposed  method  of  “  preserving  the 
best.”  If  every  young  gardener  would  do  so  be  would  be  the  gaimr, 
Tbe  chosen  articles  should  be  dated,  and  in  due  time  indtxed  for 
reference.] 
T(A.UDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Cleanislngr  yrult  Trees. — As  a  geceral  cleanser  for  trees  inf  .-sted 
with  mossy  and  lichenous  growt’us,  red  spider,  eggs  of  insects,  scale,  and 
fungoid  gor.os,  Coates’  soda  and  potanh  solution  is  the  best  if  carefully 
applied  with  a  spraying  machine.  The  solution  is  made  by  Jiasolving 
lb.  each  of  caustic  soda  (Greenbank’s  1(8  per  cent)  and  commercial 
potash  (pearlasb)  in  hot  water,  addding  to  the  solution  5  gallons  more 
water.  Apply  it  to  the  trees  in  the  form  of  spray  at  a  temperature  of 
120°  to  180°.  Young  trees  especially,  whether  they  have  been  attacked 
by  insects  or  not,  should  have  a  dressing  of  this  effective  wash,  as  it  is 
very  important  that  their  more  tender  bark  and  growths  be  kept  free 
from  attack.  Gishurst  compound  and  other  effective  insecticides  may 
also  be  used  with  good  results. 
American  Klight. — This  pest  requires  special  treatment  in  order 
to  exterminate  it  from  Apple  trees,  which  it  chiefly  attacks.  Uepruned 
and  neglected  trees  are  the  most  frequently  overrun,  but  all  are  liable  to 
it  and  injured  by  it,  especially  young  trees,  the  bark  of  which  is  tende' 
and  easily  pierced  by  the  insects.  The  blight  is  conspicuous  by  tbe 
wo  lly  bunches  of  white  co'tony  substance  congregated  in  scars  and 
cracks  in  the  stem  and  branches.  This  is  most  evident  in  summer.  In 
the  winter  season  the  white  substance  largely  disappears,  but  the  insects 
are  present.  Examination  of  the  patches  in  summer  reveals  colonies  of 
aphides  in  active  condition.  Those  in  the  more  actively  advanced 
stages  of  existence  pierce  the  tender  tissues  of  the  trees  wherever  cracks 
or  wounds  in  the  bark  afford  opportunity  for  the  suckers  of  the  insects 
to  penetrate  and  feed  on  the  sap.  This,  in  time  gives  rise  to  warty 
growths,  and  excrescences  of  various  sizes  occur  on  the  stems,  brancheF., 
young  growths,  and  even  the  roots.  In  all  places  where  they  tecome 
established  the  insects  breed  and  increase  freely. 
llem‘dieis. — In  regard  to  old  trees  attacked,  first  all  gnperflnous 
growth  must  be  cut  out,  burning  the  material  as  soon  as  possible.  Then 
dress  the  infested  parts  with  a  mixture  of  h  Ib.softsoap,  I  gal'on  of 
petroleum,  and  B'  gallons  of  water.  Dissolve  the  soap  in  hot  water 
first,  add  the  petroleum,  mixing  well,  and  finally  the  rest  of  the  water 
(10  gallons),  churning  the  whole  with  a  syringe  or  fotce  pump.  Work 
into  the  infested  parts  with  a  brush,  Calvert’s  carbolic  soap  lb.,  hot 
water  one  gallon,  soluble  petrolenm  one  pint,  mixed  with  a  little  clay, 
is  also  a  good  remedy,  applying  it  with  a  stiff  painter’s  brush  worked 
well  into  ail  infested  scars  and  cracks. 
Planting  and  Pruning  Wall  Trees. — Trees  of  wbatevei  form 
for  walls  are  of  the  beststee  for  planting  in  permanent  positions  when 
in  their  second  or  third  year’s  growth  from  tbe  maiden.  At  these  ages 
tbe  .foundation  of  the  particular  form  of  training  desired  has  been 
originated  skilful'y  by  the  nurseryman,  and  there  seldom  remains  more 
than  a  little  judicious  shortening  of  main  or  leading  branches  to  enable 
suitable  growth  emtinuing  on  the  lines  laid  down. 
Svil  Preparation.— Tiiox  to  planting  break  up  the  soil  well  and 
deeply,  carrying  out  a  method  of  draining  if  nocessary,  so  that 
water  does  noi  remain  at  or  immediately  below  the  dfipth  to  which  the 
roots  may  penetrate  for  any  length  of  time.  The  generality  of  soils  where 
fruit  trees  succeed  best  are  naturally  drained.  These  rt quire  no 
attention,  but  in  situations  where  cold,  heavy,  retentive  subroils  exist 
the  superfluous  water  accumulating  must  be  drained  away.  In  special 
circumstances  it  may  be  desirable  to  plant  a  little  above  the  .surrounding 
level.  Make  the  soil  equally  fertile  by  adding  loamy  material  in 
preference  to  manure  which  promotes  luxuriant  growth,  whereas  a 
free  growth  only  of  moderate  strength  is  desirable. 
Planting. — Secure  well  grown,  healthy  trees,  having  a  fair  quantity 
of  fi brous  roots,  as  well  as  some  oi  stronger  character.  The  latter  tre 
usuHlly  broken  in  the  course  of  removal,  a..d  before  planting  these  and 
other  mutilated  roots  must  be  carefully  cut  smooth,  Fonn  semi¬ 
circular  holes,  fiat  at  the  base,  shallow,  and  of  sufficient  width.  Tbe 
rots  require  to  be  spread  out  to  their  full  extent,  the  soil  worked  in 
among  them,  distributing  it  from  the  stem  outwards,  covering  tbe  upper 
most  about  4  inches.  Render  the  material  about  the  roots  fairly  firm, 
but  not  stamping  it  down  with  the  feet,  which  injures  the  roots  at  the 
collar.  8ecu re  tbe  trees  loosely  until  they  and  the  soil  settle  together. 
Afford  a  layer  of  half-decayed  manure  as  a  mulch  for  the  roots. 
(  Prv.nmg. — The  pruning  of  newly  planted  wall  trees  consists  in  so 
reducing  the  previous  season’s  growth  that  the  shape  already  fQr.med 
may  be  enlarged  on  the  same  lines.  The  main  leader  on  horizontal 
shaped  trees  must  be  shortened  to  a  foot  for  forming  a  fresh  upright 
and  two  side  branches.  Maiden  trees  planted  for  forming  single  cordons 
need  not  be  shortened  unlees  the  terminal  bud  is  a  bloESom  bud.  Fun- 
shaped  trees  ought  to  have  good  long  basal  branches  before  the  central 
growths  increase  in  strength,  therefore  it  is  not  desirable  to  shorten  the 
former  much  unless  they  are  very  weak,  when  of  course  the  growths 
issuing  from  them  the  following  season  must  be  encouraged.  The 
Cl  ntral  parts  of  the  trees  usually  grow  very  freely,  and  on  the  extension 
system,  in  the  case  of  stone  fruits,  the  available  space  is  soon  occupied. 
