22 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  8.  1897. 
Exceptionally  beautiful  were  the  Lselias  that  were  in  bloom 
when  this  visit  was  paid,  and  the  same  may  he  said  of  the 
Dendrobiums,  of  both  of  which  large  numbers  of  plants  are  grown. 
Masdevaliias  make  a  glorious  display  as  usual.  Of  these  the  stock 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country,  comprising,  as  it  does,  the 
majority  of  the  kinds  and  varieties  in  cultivation.  Of  the  Aerides, 
the  Vandas,  the  Coelogynes,  and  others  we  cannot  now  say  more 
than  that  they  are  in  the  most  excellent  condition — a  characteristic 
of  every  Orchid  on  the  place. — H.  W. 
Thunias. 
These  form  a  very  useful  class  of  Orchids,  especially  suited 
to  amateurs,  being  interesting  and  of  easy  culture.  The  requisite 
heat  being  at  command,  a  tyro  in  Orchid  growing  may  take  up 
their  culture  with  every  prospect  of  success,  but  without  this  they 
are  better  left  alone.  The  warmest  house,  or  what  is  usually 
termed  the  East  Indian  house,  is  most  suitable,  and  the  lightest 
and  sunniest  part  of  it  should  be  chosen.  They  require  even  more 
sun  than  deciduous  Dendrobiums — in  fact,  they  will,  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  thrive  well  in  an  entirely  unshaded  position. 
Imported  plants  come  to  hand  in  the  shape  of  dry  stems  from  a 
foot  to  over  a  yard  in  length,  and  these  require  very  little  to 
establish  them  if  collected  at  the  proper  season,  so  as  to  arrive  in  a 
fairly  plump  condition.  Stems  that  have  been  produced  under 
cultivation  may  be  potted  singly  as  early  in  the  new  year  as 
possible,  first  of  all  trimming  off  the  greater  part  of  the  old  roots, 
leaving  only  a  few  to  steady  the  stems  in  position.  Good  spikes 
may  be  grown  in  48-pots,  and  unless  it  is  specially  desired  to 
have  them  massed  one  stem  should  be  placed  in  each.  If  larger 
plants  are  wanted  suitably  sized  pots  may  be  used,  and  five  or  six 
placed  in  each,  the  only  fault  of  this  mode  of  culture  being  that 
they  do  not  always  flower  simultaneously. 
A  good  deal,  of  course,  can  be  done  by  choosing  stems  of  as 
nearly  as  possible  the  same  size,  and  with  the  young  shoots  at  the 
base  in  equally  forward  condition,  but  even  so  the  result  is  not 
always  satisfactory.  Good  drainage  and  clean  dry  pots  are 
essential  in  either  case,  as  the  plants  when  growing  freely  take 
a  lot  of  water.  For  compost  take  about  equal  parts  of  peat  fibre, 
loam,  and  sphagnum  moss,  a  little  of  the  rougher  portion  of  the 
latter  being  placed  over  the  drainage.  Mix  plenty  of  finely  broken 
crocks  with  the  compost,  but  sand  is  not  required.  A  little  dried 
cow  manure,  or  a  sprinkling  of  an  artificial  manure  of  not  too 
stimulating  a  character  may  also  be  added. 
The  surface  of  the  compost  for  cultivated  stems  must  not  be 
raised  above  the  level  of  the  rim,  but  kept  below  as  in  ordinary 
potting.  When  newly  imported  a  slight  rise  is  advantageous,  and 
in  neither  case  must  the  base  of  the  stems  be  deeply  buried.  Place 
a  neat  stake  to  each  stem  to  prevent  rocking  about,  tie  firmly,  and 
place  at  once  in  their  growing  quarters.  The  atmosphere  must  be 
kept  very  moist,  and  the  young  shoots  will  then  lengthen  rapidly. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  when  about  3  inches  in  length  these  com¬ 
mence  to  emit  roots,  and  until  this  occurs  no  water  should  be 
placed  on  the  compost,  though  light  dewings  over  the  old  stems 
may  be  allowed.  But  the  roots  advance  rapidly  in  ratio  with  the 
growth,  and  soon  a  full  supply  will  be  needed. 
When  they  are  well  rooted  and  taking  water  freely,  allow  them 
free  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  as  much  air  as  may  be  without 
lowering  the  temperature.  By  the  beginning  of  J une  the  white¬ 
looking  spikes  should  be  showing  at  the  apex  of  the  stems,  and 
they  rapidly  come  to  maturity.  The  blossoms  being  past,  the 
plants  may  be  removed  to  a  light,  airy,  and  warm  house  to  ripen 
their  foliage,  the  supply  of  water  to  the  roots  being  lessened  as 
this  falls.  During  warm  weather  they  may  be  placed  outside  with 
advantage,  but  an  eye  must  be  kept  on  the  weather  in  August,  and 
if  likely  to  be  cold  the  plants  must  again  be  taken  inside .  Any 
plants  that  are  not  showing  spikes  by  the  end  of  J uly  must  be 
gradually  ripened  off  as  recommended  for  plants  that  have 
bloomed. 
It  is  important  that  the  Thunia  stems  are  not  kept  too  cool 
during  the  winter,  for  like  deciduous  Calanthes  they  are  easily 
injured  in  this  way.  If  room  is  scarce  they  may  be  turned  out  of 
their  pots  and  hung  up  in  bundles  from  the  roof,  but  warm  and 
dry  they  must  be.  The  present  month  (June)  is  their  flowering 
season,  and  it  is  important  that  while  they  are  in  bloom  no  water 
is  allowed  to  touch  the  flowers.  Calanthes  even  are  not  more 
easily  damaged  in  this  way,  so  if  left  to  bloom  in  their  growing 
quarters  great  care  is  needful  with  the  syringe.  The  best  plan  is 
to  take  them  out  while  in  bloom,  and  arrange  them  in  a  drier 
house.  Thunias  are  readily  propagated  by  division,  one  stem 
often  breaking  into  two  at  the  base  in  spring,  and  if  a  more  rapid 
mode  is  desired  the  stems  that  have  bloomed  may  be  cut  up  into 
lengths  of  4  inches  or  so,  and  rooted  in  pots  of  sphagnum  moss. 
T.  alba  is  the  oldest  member  of  the  genus,  having  been  dis¬ 
covered  by  Dr.  Wallich  in  the  Himalayas  ;  it  was  introduced  to 
cultivation  a  few  years  after  by  Messrs.  Loddiges  of  Hackney.  It 
has  pure  white  blossoms,  marked  on  the  lips  with  purple  streaks. 
T.  Bensonise  is  a  native  of  Rangoon,  and  first  flowered  in  this 
country  in  1867  at  Kew.  The  variety  Winniana  is  more  highly 
coloured  than  the  type,  having  bright  rosy  purple  blossoms. 
T.  Marsballiana  is  perhaps  the  best  known  ot  all,  and  bears  pretty 
white  flowers  much  fringed  on  the  lips  with  golden  yellow  hairs, 
while  the  hybrid  T.  Veitchiana  was  raised  by  Messrs.  Yeitch  from 
T.  Marsballiana  and  T.  Bensonise.  It  is  synonymous  with 
T.  Wrigleyana  and  first  flowered  in  1885. — H.  R.  R. 
Di-^mond  Jubilee  Orchid  Trophy. 
On  Monday,  21st  ult.,  at  Messrs.  Wills  &  Segar,  South 
Kensington,  was  exhibited  a  magnificent  Orchid  trophy,  arranged 
by  them  for  Messrs.  F.  Sander  &  Co.,  which  consisted  of  a  basket 
made  of  wickerwork,  standing  on  a  polished  mahogany  base  ;  in 
shape  trifoliate,  beautifully  fluted  and  plaited.  From  the  three 
corners  arose  the  handle,  its  three  branches  forming  a  dome, 
surmounting  the  top  of  which  is  a  Royal  crown,  the  letters 
“  V.  R  I.,”  12  inches  in  length,  being  arranged  beneath  the  crown, 
which  consists  of  several  hundreds  of  flowers  of  Odontoglossum 
citrosmum,  the  letters  being  composed  of  Epidendrum  vitellinum. 
Spikes  of  many  of  all  the  best  and  rarest  Orchids  were  used, 
among  them  being  Cattleya  Empress  of  India,  Cattleya  Our  Queen, 
and  Cattleya  Yictoria  Regina.  Odontoglossum  Alexandrse  were 
prominent  in  magnificent  pure  white  spikes,  as  also  were  Den- 
drobium  Dalhouseanum.  The  sprays  of  the  Disa,  Stenoglottis, 
Burmese  Yandas,  Cattleyas,  Oncidiums,  Epidendrum,  and  Laelia 
served  to  illustrate  the  vast  floral  wealth  in  Orchids  indigenous  to 
many  lands  over  which  our  Queen  reigns.  The  handles  were  fitted 
with  flutes  or  sockets,  in  which  the  flowers  were  placed  with  the 
spikes  entire.  The  interior  of  the  basket,  which  had  to  be  specially 
constructed,  was  one  central  dome,  forming  a  solid  foundation, 
supporting  the  mass  of  blossoms,  which,  perfectly  finished  and 
arranged,  had  a  maximum  height  of  8  feet,  with  a  diameter  of 
6  feet.  By  command  of  her  Majesty  the  trophy  was  delivered  at 
Buckingham  Palace  on  Monday  afternoon. 
SWEET  PEAS. 
There  were  several  large  collections  of  these  charming  flowers  shown 
the  other  day  at  the  Drill  Hall,  and  selections  from  them  seemed  to  be 
exceedingly  diflSoult.  I  could  not  but  feel  that  had  one-half  of  the 
so-called  varieties  never  been  put  into  commerce  our  Sweet  Peas  would 
have  been  much  the  better,  and  gardening  none  the  poorer.  Far  too 
many  of  these  Peas  are  put  into  commerce  simply  to  sell,  but  to  assume 
that  they  merit  names  or  awards  is  ridiculous.  There  lies  before  me  a 
list  of  ninety-flve  so-called  varieties.  Talk  about  things  undreamt  of, 
who  would  but  a  few  years  since,  when  we  had  scarlet  and  black  Invin¬ 
cible,  Painted  Lady,  and  a  few  others,  the  best  not  exceeding  half  a 
dozen,  have  imagined  that  close  upon  100  named  varieties  would  ever  be 
evolved  1 
If  any  seedsman  would  have  the  courage  to  cut  his  list  down  to  a  fine 
selection  of  say  twelve  only,  eliminating  any  variety  on  which  something 
new  was  an  improvement,  what  good  service  would  be  rendered  to  those 
wishing  to  buy  and  have  the  best  only.  Who  can  grow  only  half  of 
ninety-five  varieties,  and  still  farther,  who  could  make  a  selection  from 
so  bewildering  a  list  ?  Practically  it  is  impossible.  Descriptions  are  florid 
and  enticing  ;  the  reality,  when  seen  in  the  flowers,  is  very  disappointing. 
At  the  recent  meeting  at  the  Drill  Hall,  with  so  many  of  these  so- 
called  varieties  represented,  I  endeavoured  to  make  a  rather  liberal 
selection  of  colours  which  pleased  me.  My  tastes  may  be  peculiar, 
but  I  prefer  the  seifs,  and  indeed,  in  all  cases  found  these  to  be  the 
most  attractive.  Some  edged  or  flaked  flowers  perhaps  catch  on  with 
other  people,  but  I  find  the  seifs  most  favoured.  The  best  whites  were 
Emily  Henderson  and  Blanche  Burpee.  Either  one  is  good,  they  scarcely 
differing.  Of  primrose  or  creamy  shades.  Queen  Victoria  and  Mrs. 
Eckford  resemble,  but  the  former  seems  to  have  rather  the  finer 
standard.  It  is,  however,  not  a  specially  attractive  colour.  Very 
beautiful  shades  of  pink  and  carmine  are  Lovely,  Royal  Robe,  Countess 
of  Paris,  and  Meteor.  This  is  one  of  the  loveliest  shades  or  hues  found 
in  Sweet  Peas,  and  all  the  four  named  are  worth  growing.  Of  mauve 
and  blue  shades,  New  Countess,  Captivation,  Dorothy  Tennant,  and 
Emily  Eckford  are  charming.  Captivation  is  particularly  beautiful, 
colour  of  a  rosy  blue  hue. 
Then  of  red  or  scarlet  shades,  Ovid,  Cardinal,  and  Mars  are  very  rich 
and  effective  ;  whilst  of  deep  purple  and  maroon  hues,  Sbazada,  Stanley, 
and  Duke  of  Clarence  are  of  the  best.  In  ordinary  collections,  however, 
about  one  of  these  heavy  coloured  varieties  suflSces  ;  good  blues,  pinks, 
carmines,  roses,  scarlets,  crimsons,  and  of  course  whites,  about  two 
shades,  or  slightly  diverse  coloured  varieties  of  each  giving  a  first-rate 
selection. 
Sweet  Peas  need  to  be  grown  thinly,  and  small  clumps  of  a  few 
plants  well  staked  and  mulched  usually  give  the  finest  flowers.  The 
harder  these  are  kept  cut  the  better,  but  where  grown  specially  for 
cutting  it  is  well  to  select  a  site  in  the  kitchen  garden.  Under  any 
circumstances,  seed  pods  should  not  be  allowed  to  form.  An  early  sowing 
may  be  made  in  pots  under  glass  in  January  to  plant  out  in  April.  A 
second  should  be  made  outdoors  in  April,  and  a  third  for  late  work  early 
in  June,  as  then  fine  fresh  flowers  are  had  for  a  long  season. — A.  D. 
