34 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  8,  1897. 
tition  on  that  occasion  amoanted  in  all  to  7200,  or  1450  more  than  the 
average  for  the  five  previous  metropolitan  shows  of  the  Society,  and 
100  blooms  more  than  at  the  largest  of  those  exhibitions — that  of  1892. 
There  were  over  100  exhibitors,  whose  exhibits,  arranged  according  to 
the  number  contributed  by  each  county,  were  as  follows  : — Essex  heals 
the  list  with  71  exhibits,  Surrey  comes  next  with  61,  then  Middlesex 
with  35,  Herts  34,  Kent  32,  Oxford  29,  Notts  26.  Somerset  20,  Sussex  20, 
Worcester  19,  Gloucester  15,  Suffolk  15,  Berks  12,  Leicester  10,  Wilts  8, 
Bucks  7,  Devon  6,  Hants  (including  Isle  of  Wight)  6,  Derby  5,  North¬ 
ampton  5,  Yorks  3,  Bedford  2,  Cambridge  2,  Shropshire  2,  Dorset  1, 
Stafford  1,  and  Warwick  1,  In  addition  to  the  English  contributions, 
seven  exhibits  came  from  Wales  and  eleven  from  Ireland^  but,  unlike 
last  year,  there  were  no  Scottish-grown  Roses.  Seldom,  if  ever,  has  the 
Society  held  a  more  enjoyable  exhibition. 
The  day,  although  dull,  proved  fine  and  cool,  thus  allowing  the 
blooms  to  continue  fresh  and  bright  during  the  whole  day.  The  general 
quality  of  the  flowers  was  remarkably  good,  and  particularly  was  this 
the  case  in  the  exhibits  from  many  of  the  smaller  growers.  Moreover, 
there  was  at  no  time  any  overcrowding,  so  that  the  blooms  could  be 
inspected  in  comfort  by  both  members  and  visitors. — E.  M.,  Berh- 
Jiampsted, 
DEATH  OF  MR.  W.  K.  WOODCOCK. 
We  much  regret,  as  will  many  of  our  readers,  to  hear  of  the  death 
of  this  well-known  excellent  gardener  and  worthy  man.  The  sad  event 
occurred  on  Friday  night 
last  at  the  Victoria 
Nurseries,  Leicester,  from 
pneumonia  and  a  compli¬ 
cation  of  diseases  following 
a  chill.  Mr.  Woodcock 
was  for  a  considerable 
time  gardener  to  Sir  F. 
Mappin  and  Mrs.  Mark 
Firth,  near  Sheffield,  where 
he  acquitted  himself  most 
creditably  and  well.  He 
took  an  active  part  in 
the  Horticultural  and 
Chrysanthemum  Society 
of  Sheffield,  as  well  as  in 
gardeners’  educational 
societies  in  the  West 
Riding  of  Yorkshire,  and 
his  services  were  much 
in  demand  and  willingly 
given  in  the  reading  of 
papers.  He  subsequently 
took  a  small  nursery  near 
Syston,  devoting  much 
attention  to  Chrysanthe¬ 
mums,  and  working  with 
great  diligence  generally,  eventually  taking  the  Victoria  Nursery, 
Humberstone.  He  was  at  the  same  time  horticultural  instructor  for 
the  Norfolk  County'Council,  a  position  which  he  filled  with  satisfaction 
to  all.  He  leaves  a  widow  and  grown  up  family,  who,  it  is  hope!, 
will  be  able  to  carry  on  the  business  as  before,  when  they  had  the 
supervision  of  the  experienced  head.  Mr.  Woodcock  was  a  genuine  type 
of  a  British  gardener,  and  we  do  not  think  was  sixty  years  of  age.  We 
reproduce  a  portrait  that  was  taken  a  few  years  ago. 
I  AM  sure  that  many  of  the  readers  of  the  Journal  will  be  sorry  to 
hear  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Woodcock.  He  caught  a  chill  while  delivering 
a  lecture  in  the  open  air  at  Norfolk,  and,  although  he  got  better,  he  had 
a  relapse  from  which  he  did  not  recover.  I  have  known  Mr.  Woodcock 
for  about  ten  years,  and  I  have  always  found  him  a  most  kind,  genial, 
and  true  friend.  He  was  well  up  in  all  horticultural  matters,  and 
always  tried  to  keep  abreast  of  the  times,  and  I  am  sure  he  will  be 
greatly  missed  by  a  large  circle  of  friends. — J.  Lansdell,  BarUhy 
Hall,  near  Leicester. 
RIPE  STRAWBERRIES. 
Illustratiitg  the  earliness  or  otherwise  of  the  seasons  by  the 
ripening  of  the  first  fruits  is  always  an  interesting  subject  to  me.  To  be 
brief,  I  will  mention  that  last  year  our  first  fruits  were  ready  for  picking 
on  the  6th  of  June  this  year  our  first  picking  took  place  on  the  23rd  of 
the  same  month,  just  seventeen  days  later. 
The  following  sorts  were  planted  on  the  same  day — namely.  Royal 
Sovereign,  Scarlet  Queen,  Noble,  King  of  Earlies,  and  John  Ruskin,  and 
for  all  practical  purposes  ripened  together.  Although  all  alike  in  this 
respect,  there  is  a  great  difference  in  the  quality  of  the  ripe  fruit. 
Royal  Sovereign  takes  the  first  place  here  for  size  and  flavour  ;  next  I 
prefer  Scarlet  Queen,  John  Ruskin,  King  of  Earlies,  and  last  of  all 
Noble.  These  remarks  may  not  coincide  with  other  growers  in  other 
districts  on  diversities  of  soils. 
Last  year  several  short  notes  appeared  in  the  Journal  on  this  subject ; 
a  few  more  this  year  would  be  welcome  if  the  districts  were  indicated 
by  the  writers. — J.  Easter,  Nostell  Priory  Gardens, 
OXYLOBIUM  CALLISTACHYS. 
This  ornamental  shrubby  plant  does  not  appear  to  be  so  generally 
well  known  as  it  might  be,  or  it  would  be  more  extensively  cnltivated. 
Either  as  small  plants  for  the  side  stages  of  the  conservatory  or  as 
plants  4  feet  high  in  large  pots  it  would  be  found  very  useful.  Like 
most  of  the  Australian  plants  Oxylobiums  require  only  ordinary  green¬ 
house  treatment,  but  to  make  them  flower  freely  allow  them  enough 
sun  to  thoroughly  ripen  their  shoots.  They  will  be  found  to  thrive 
best  in  a  compost  of  fibry  loam  and  peat  of  about  equal  parts,  with 
plenty  of  silver  sand  added.  Oxylobium  callistachys  (fig.  7)  has  bright 
yellow  pea-shaped  flowers  produced  in  dense  clusters,  and  is  very  showy, 
as  are  also  many  of  the  other  species.  The  genus  is  a  large  one,  but 
many  of  the  species  are  not  known  in  English  gardens. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Lilium  Harrisi. 
Plants  of  Lilium  Harrisi  which  have  been  forced  for  early  decora¬ 
tion  will  now  have  ceased  flowering,  and  many  of  them  will  be  starting 
into  growth  from  the  base.  Such  plants  as  appear  to  be  throwing  up 
strong  shoots  may  render  capital  service  later  in  the  season  by  cutting 
down  the  old  stems  and  repotting  in  smaller  sized  pots,  thus  giving  a 
fresh  start.  A  cold  frame  will  be  suitable  to  grow  them  in  and  make 
dwarf  plants,  The  stems  do- not  attain  much  height  when  treated  in 
this  way,  about  6  inches  being  the  average.  A  very  pleasing  effect  is 
obtained  during  the  late  season  of  the  flower  garden  if  they  are  plunged 
about  the  edges  of  herbaceous  or  mixed  borders. 
I  have  one  bulb  which  has  produced  three  stems,  each  bearing  two 
fairly  good  blooms.  It  was  forced  amongst  a  number  for  the  Whit¬ 
suntide  decorations,  but  as  the  flowers  were  malformed  it  was  cut  down 
and  allowed  to  start  again  from  the  bottom.  Perhaps  the  deformity  of 
the  first  blooms  and  cutting  down  the  stem  before  allowing  it  to  ripen 
would  tend  to  increase  the  subsequent  rapid  growth.— R.  A.  Anderson, 
Alnwick. 
Acalyphas. 
For  decorative  purposes  this  is  a  very  useful  class  of  plants,  their 
foliage  contrasting  effectively  with  Crotons  and  other  kinds.  If  possible 
the  tops  of  o’d  plants  should  be  selected  for  cuttings,  as  they,  being 
stronger,  grow  more  freely  than  side  shoots.  Insert  them  in  thumb 
pots  of  light  soil  in  early  spring,  and  place  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  where 
they  quickly  emit  roots.  The  plants  may  be  soon  afterwards  placed  in 
larger  pots,  using  a  compost  of  loam  and  peat,  with  a  little  leaf  soil  and 
sand.  Peat  is  not  used  by  some  growers,  bat  I  consider  it  enhances 
the  dark  rich  colour  of  the  foliage.  After  potting  place  the  plants  in  a 
stove  temperature  till  they  are  established,  when  they  may  be  either 
retained  in  the  stove  or  arranged  in  the  greenhouse.  They  last  longer 
and  assume  a  better  colour  with  cool  treatment  during  the  summer,  but 
they  require  a  stove  for  wintering  in.  Liquid  manure  is  very  beneficial 
when  the  plants  are  root-bound. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  insert  several  cuttings  at  intervals  during 
the  summer,  as  the  earliest  plants  get  too  tall  towards  the  end  of  the 
season,  while  the  latest  last  well  through  the  winter,  and  serve  for  stock 
plants  the  following  spring. 
Acalyphas  are  sometimes  employed  for  bedding,  but  the  plants 
require  to  be  strong  and  well  prepared  before  being  placed  outside  in 
the  beds.  Their  worst  enemies  are  thrips  and  mealy  bug.  A  sharp 
look-out  must  be  kept  for  these  pests,  and  some  approved  insecticide 
promptly  used,  as  the  leaves  are  soon  spoiled,  and  will  drop,  especially 
so  in  the  case  of  attacks  by  thrips. — Balcarres. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. 
Op  late  years  these  fruits  have  been  more  extensively  grown  outside 
than  formerly,  still  they  may  be  grown  a  great  deal  more  yet  with 
advantage  to  all  concerned.  Gardeners  are  becoming  aware  of  the  fact 
that  excellent  fruit  can  be  produced  by  attention  to  cultural  details  from 
south,  south-east,  south-west,  or  east  walls  in  various  parts  of  England- 
The  best  aspect,  of  course,  is  south,  although  the  finest  wall  of  trees  and 
fruit  I  have  seen  faces  east.  In  ordinary  seasons  good-flavoured  Peaches 
and  Nectarines  from  this  wall  have  turned  the  scale  at  12  ozs.  I  am  of 
opinion  that  more  failures  occur  through  neglecting  cultural  details 
than  from  aspects  of  walls.  This  is  not  so  much  a  matter  of  want  of 
knowledge  on  the  subject,  as  sparing  the  necessary  time  to  do  what  is 
needed  at  the  right  moment. 
Elaborately  made  borders  are  not  necessary  for  growing  Peaches,  as 
ordinary  garden  soil  will  in  most  cases  suffice  by  adding  clayey  loam  to 
light,  and  wood  ashes,  lime  rubble,  or  road  grit  to  heavy  soils,  rich 
borders  being  very  detrimental  to  good  fruit- bearing  wood.  The  best 
time  for  planting  is  the  autumn,  selecting  young  trees  without  any  trace 
of  gumming.  Plant  about  6  inches  from  the  wall,  just  deep  enough  to 
cover  the  top  roots  2  inches.  Make  the  soil  firm  by  treading,  and  mulch 
with  strawy  manure  to  prevent  radiation  and  conserve  warmth. 
The  mode  of  training  generally  pursued  is  fan-shaped,  which  is 
perhaps  the  best,  as  it  tends  to  arrest  what  would  otherwise  be  ex¬ 
uberant  growth.  It  is  better  to  secure  the  growths  and  stems  to  wires, 
than  to  nail  them  to  the  walls,  as  the  trees  can  be  cleaned  more 
easily,  and  the  walls  from  constant  nailings  soon  afford  harbour  for 
insects.  If  the  disbudding  is  done  properly,  and  sub-laterals  stopped, 
very  little  pruning  is  necessary,  with  the  exception  of  removing  old 
Fig.  6.— Mb.  "W.  k.  Woodcock. 
