July  8,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
35 
fraiting  wood  aod  rank  growths.  Strong  growing  trees  should  be  root- 
pruned  in  the  autumn. 
Disbudding  the  growths  is  one  of  the  most  important  features  con¬ 
nected  with  successful  Peach  growing,  and  perhaps  the  most  neglected. 
It  should  be  done  at  intervals  of  about  ten  days,  beginning  as  early  as 
possible  ;  first  removing  those  growths  which  are  badly  placed,  and  also 
such  strong  growths  as  might  be  likely  to  develop  into  rankness, 
gradually  reducing  to  the  required  number,  erring  rather  on  the  side  of 
sparseness  than  overcrowding,  which  is  ruinous. — J.  L.  Gr. 
(To  be  continued.) 
Useful  Winter  Plants— Richardias. 
In  former  papers  I  have  treated  on  Salvias,  Chrysanthemums,  and 
Zmal  Pelargoniums  ;  I  will  now  continue  with  the  so-called  Arum  Lily, 
Richardia  asthiopica,  named  after  Mons.  Richard,  a  French  botanist. 
Richardia  or  Calla  tethiopica  is  the  best  known  and  most  grown  of  the 
genus.  It  is  also  called  the  Trumpet  Lily  and  Lily  of  the  Nile,  though 
why  the  latter  I  do  not  know,  as  the  plant  is  a  native  of  South  Africa. 
The  spathes  are  much  in  demand  for  church  decoration  at  Christmas 
and  Easter,  market  growers  often  obtaining  fancy  prices  at  those 
times.  Like  enterprising  men,  as  they  are,  they  try  to  have  as  many 
flowers  as  possible  at  such  seasons,  when  the  wholesale  price  is  a 
shilling  or  more  each. 
This  Richardia  is  a  most  accommodating  plant,  succeeding  well 
under  various  systems  of  culture.  For  growing  for  cut  flowers  I  find 
planting  out  in  trenches,  prepared  as  for  Celery,  the  best  method, 
though  they  need  scarcely  be  so  deep  and  less  manure  may  be  used. 
Stand  the  pots  of  Lilies  outside  in  a  sheltered  spot  in  May  to  harden, 
•  little  water  being  required.  The  time  to  increase  the  stock  is  when 
the  planting  is  done  by  dividing  the  crowns  of  large  plants.  Lifting 
is  done  about  the  first  week  of  September,  standing  the  plants  under  a 
north  wall  for  a  couple  of  weeks  after  potting;  They  may  then  be 
moved  to  a  warm  or  cold  house  according  to  the  time  a  large  number  of 
flowers  are  required. 
A  plentiful  supply  of  water  must  be  given  after  the  plants'  start 
growing  in  the  trenches,  liquid  manure  doing  good  if  used  a  few  times. 
The  soil  used  for  potting  the  plants  must  be  rich,  as  generally  the  roots 
nearly  fill  the  pot,  and  may  consist  of  loam  two  parts  and  a  part  each 
of  leaf  mould  and  horse  droppings,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal  and 
soot.  Liquid  manure  may  be  used  with  advantage.  Water  often  after 
the  pots  are  full  of  roots.  Market  growers  usually  use  5  and  6-inch 
pots  for  plants  with  one  growth,  and  it  is  surprising  how  many  flowers 
such  plants  give  in  a  season. 
For  specimen  plants  in  pots  and  tubs  I  prefer  to  dry  the  plants  off, 
reduce  the  old  ball,  and  repot  in  July,  placing  the  plants  where  heavy 
rains  may  be  warded  off  for  a  time.  By  placing  them  inside  before 
those  planted  out  flowers  in  quantity  may  often  be  had  very  early.  The 
soil  for  potting  specimens  need  not  be  so  rich  as  for  potting  those  planted 
out.  Loam  one-half,  leaf  mould  one-fourth,  and  a  fourth  of  horse 
droppings  with  a  dusting  of  soot  and  bonemeal,  or  any  of  the  artificial 
manures  advertised  in  the  Journal  answering  well. — W.  T.,  Ireland. 
Cucumber  Culture  (^continued  from  page  11). 
When  the  roots  of  the  plants  have  pushed  through  the  small  mounds 
they  are  planted  in,  more  compost  must  be  added,  and  this  should  be  of 
the  same  kind  as  before.  Continue  this  process  whenever  the  roots  show 
outside  the  soil.  Stop  the  plants  the  first  time  at  the  fourth  joint,  and 
afterwards  always  at  the  second. 
Never  allow  the  shoots  to  become  crowded,  but  keep  them  thinned  ; 
and  the  fruit  should  also  be  kept  thinned,  allowing  only  one  to  each 
joint.  All  male  flowers  and  tendrils  ought  be  removed.  The  night 
temperature  of  the  house  should  be  about  70°,  and  may  be  allowed  to 
rise  to  90°  or  100°  in  the  daytime. 
Winter  Cucumbers. — The  treatment  for  these  varies  somewhat 
from  the  summer,  but  the  compost  may  be  the  same  as  mentioned  for 
the  summer  plants,  with  a  little  charcoal  added. 
The  main  point  is  to  get  the  plants  well  established  before  the  winter 
months,  and  this  can  be  done  by  sowing  early  in  September.  Allow  the 
plants  to  grow  about  2  feet  before  the  first  stopping,  and  afterwards 
stop  at  the  second  joint.  Great  care  must  be  taken  that  the  soil  does 
not  get  too  wet,  or  the  plants  will  fail.  Syringing  should  only  be  done 
on  bright  days,  and  then  only  once,  for  damping  the  paths  will  afford 
suflScient  atmospheric  moisture.  A  night  temperature  ranging  from 
65°  to  70°  will  be  sufficient  for  them. 
Cultivation  in  Frames. — The  first  thing  is  to  prepare  plenty  of 
litter  and  leaves.  These  should  be  well  mixed,  and  a  bed  made  at  least 
3  feet  thick,  and  2  feet  wider  than  the  frame.  Tread  the  bed  firmly, 
and  set  the  frame  on  it  with  a  southern  aspect.  Place  a  ridge  of  soil  in 
the  frame,  and  in  this,  when  the  steam  from  the  bed  is  exhausted, 
insert  the  plants  at  a  distance  of  3  feet  apart.  A  light  shading  will  be 
necessary  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  and  adequate  air  must  be 
afforded.  Like  Cucumbers  in  houses,  they  require  plenty  of  atmospheric 
moisture,  and  the  frame  should  be  damped  morning  and  afternoon.  No 
trellis  will  be  required,  but  the  shoots  should  be  stopped  at  the  second 
joint,  and  also  kept  thinned  out. 
As  to  varieties  there  are  many,  and  each  grower  has  his  favourite, 
but  for  general  use  I  think  Telegraph  has  yet  to  be  excelled.  Green 
fly,  thrips,  and  red  spider  are  the  chief  enemies  of  the  Cucumber,  and 
as  soon  as  these  put  in  an  appearance  fumigate  with  tobacco,  or  syringe 
with  a  solution  of  quassia.  Eelworms  are  dreaded  enemies,  and  plants 
that  are  attacked  soon  succumb.  They  live  in  the  tissues  of  the  roots. 
and  from  thence  derive  their  nourishment.  The  safest  way  to  be  rid  of 
this  pest  is  to  take  the  plants  up  at  once  and  burn  them,  then  clear 
the  bed  thoroughly  out,  and  make  a  fresh  start. 
Whilst  visiting  a  friend  last  summer  he  took  me  to  see  a  house  of 
Cucumbers,  which  he  said  he  has  cleared  from  an  attack  of  eelworms. 
He  had  used  a  mixture  of  gas  liquor,  soluble  phenyle,  sulphate  of  iron, 
and  kainit.  The  plants  instead  of  being  “droopy”  presented  a  healthy 
appearance,  and  were  bearing  abundance  of  fruit. — Elveden. 
Humea  elegans. 
Humeas  rank  amongst  our  best  plants  for  decorative  purposes. 
Whether  in  the  conservatory,  flower  bed,  or  drawing  room,  they  show 
their  grace  and  beauty  to  advantage. 
The  seed  should  be  sown  in  July  or  early  in  August,  in  pans,  clean 
and  well  drained,  in  a  mixture  of  well  sifted  turf  and  leaf  mould,  with  a 
Fig.  7. — Oxylobium  callistachys. 
little  sharp  silver  sand  added.  Place  the  pans  on  shelves  near  to  the 
glass,  in  a  house  with  the  temperature  ranging  from  65°  to  70°,  As  soon 
as  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  prick  them  into  boxes,  and  when  well 
rooted  pot  singly  in  2J-inch  pots,  using  the  same  mixture  as  before. 
Keep  the  plants  near  the  glass  to  prevent  their  becoming  drawn,  and 
grow  them  steadily  in  a  cool  temperature. 
They  will  require  another  shift  later  on  into  5-inch  pots,  and  when 
these  are  well  filled  with  roots  they  may  be  transferred  into  the  pots 
in  which  they  are  to  flower.  For  the  final  potting  8-inch  pots  may  be 
used,  and  they  should  be  clean  and  well  drained.  Pot  firmly  in  a  com¬ 
post  of  fibry  loam,  leaf  mould,  with  broken  charcoal,  and  coarse  river  sand 
added.  Humeas  require  very  careful  treatment  in  the  way  of  watering. 
If  the  soil  become  in  any  way  sour  or  waterlogged  the  roots  decay, 
leaves  turning  to  a  sickly  yellow  colour  in  consequence,  and  flagging  ; 
when  this  occurs  the  plants  may  as  well  be  thrown  away  at  once,  as 
recovery  is  almost  hopeless. 
For  bedding  purposes  Humeas  are  well  adapted.  They  make  a 
charming  display  when  planted  alternately  with  Dahlias  Formosa,  or 
Lady  of  the  Lake,  or  in  sub-tropical  bedding.  After  they  have  served 
their  purpose  in  the  beds  or  conservatory,  the  plants  may  be  cut  down 
and  dried,  and  their  inflorescence  will  be  acceptable  for  room  decorations 
in  winter. — B.  J.  B. 
