36 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  8,  1897. 
O  WOKK-FoutheWEEK..  ’ 
FEUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  {^Early  Houses). — The  trees  having 
been  cleared  of  the  fruit,  cut  away  the  wood  on  which  it  has  been  pro¬ 
duced  to  the  euccesiional  shoot  at  the  base,  and  stop  growths  making 
more  than  12  to  14  inches  of  wood  required  for  bearing  next  year, 
always  excepting  extensions,  which  may  be  allowed  to  grow  where  there 
is  room.  Finch  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf  and  to  subsequent  as  made, 
thinning  where  crowded.  Syringe  forcibly  to  expel  red  spider,  and  if 
necessary  apply  an  insecticide.  Admit  all  the  air  possible,  and  where 
practicable  withdraw  the  roof  lights  from  the  earliest  forced  houses. 
Maintain  a  proper  condition  of  moisture  in  the  outside  as  well  as  inside 
borders. 
Succession  Houses. — Where  the  fruit  is  ripening  syringing  over  the 
fruit  must  cease,  air  being  given  day  and  night  so  as  to  prevent  moisture 
being  condensed  on  the  fruit,  and  thus  inducing  “  spot”  to  affect  and 
spoil  the  finest  specimen.  Moderate  air  moisture,  however,  should  be 
secured  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
not  neglecting  to  afford  due  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots,  with  light 
mulchings,  especially  on  light  soils. 
Where  the  fruit  is  swelling  syringe  morning  and  afternoon,  not 
allowing  red  spider  to  get  the  least  footing,  or  it  will  increase  to  the 
prejudice  of  the  current  and  succeeding  crop.  Expose  the  fruit  to  the 
light  by  drawing  the  leaves  aside,  shortening  them  or  raising  on  laths, 
with  the  apex  to  the  sun.  Keep  the  growths  fairly  thin  and  tied  down, 
not  too  tightly,  as  they  advance,  stopping  next  year's  bearing  shoots  at 
about  14  inches,  if  they  exceed  that  length,  and  pinching  the  laterals 
to  one  leaf  as  made.  Extensions  may  be  trained  in  full  length  as  space 
permits,  but  avoid  crowding,  and  maintain,  as  far  as  possible,  an  even 
growth  throughout  the  tree.  Afford  liquid  manure  or  top-dressings  of 
fertilisers  after  making  the  border  moist,  and  wash  in  moderately  to 
weakly  trees,  not  neglecting  the  watering.  A  little  air  constantly  will 
do  much  to  prevent  scorching,  and  the  enlarging  of  the  openings  early 
in  the  morning  will  secure  a  long  day’s  work  of  elaboration,  always 
provided  the  temperature  be  not  lowered  but  advances  with  the 
sun  heat. 
Late  Houses. — It  is  only  possible  to  have  fruit  very  late  by  keeping 
the  houses  as  cool  as  possible  during  the  hot  summer  months,  ventilating 
day  and  night,  but  not  in  windy  weather,  this  causing  the  current  to 
rush  through  the  structure  and  dry  the  atmosphere  excessively.  Nothing 
is  gained  by  that,  but  often  a  rich  harvest  of  battered  leaves  and  a 
plentiful  crop  of  red  spider.  This  pest  must  be  laid  low  by  forcible 
syringings  in  the  morning  and  late  afternoon,  the  trees  having  also 
plehty  of  water  and  nourishment  at  the  roots,  with  mulchings  of 
partially  decayed  lumpy  manure,  and  these  kept  moist  will  keep  the 
roots  near  surface.  Avoid,  however,  heavy  mulching,  about  an  inch 
thickness  sufBcing,  adding  to  it  from  time  to  time.  Do  not  allow  too 
many  fruits  to  remain  for  the  crop,  but  thin  them  betimes,  leaving  about 
a  fruit  to  each  square  foot  of  trellis  covered  by  the  trees. 
Pines. — Starting  Sticlters. — In  order  to  accommodate  these  from 
the  early  section  of  summer-fruiting  plants,  a  fermenting  bed  in  a  low 
house  or  pit  must  be  got  ready,  and  its  heat  steady  at  90°  about  6  inches 
from  the  surface.  Take  the  suckers  from  the  parent  plants  carefully, 
trim  the  base  smoothly,  and  place  directly  into  5  or  7-inch  pots,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  suckers,  and  water  once  in  order  to  settle  the  soil 
about  them.  Good  fibrous  loam,  torn  up  by  hand,  without  any 
admixture,  is  the  most  suitable  compost ;  embed  it  firmly  in  the  pot,  so 
that  a  sturdy  growth  may  be  insured  in  the  plants.  Keep  the  suckers 
rather  close  and  shaded  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  sprinkling  through  a 
fine  rose  syringe  once  or  twice  a  day,  according  to  external  influences. 
When  growth  takes  place  ventilation  with  less  shade  is  desirable,  but 
this  must  be  proceeded  with  gradually  until  the  growth  is  well  decided 
and  inured  to  the  sun  ;  then  accord  them  ordinary  treatment. 
Placing  in  Fruiting  Pots. — When  the  suckers  are  well  rooted  they 
should  be  transferred  to  the  largest  pots  before  the  roots  become  matted 
together.  Queens  and  Black  Jamaica  should  be  given  10-inch  pots, 
other  sorts  11  or  12  inch,  using  fibrous  loam,  but  more  lumpy  than  for 
suckers,  adding  a  sprinkling  of  steamed  bonemeal ;  and  to  prevent  worms 
entering  the  pots  either  use  worm  excluders  or  a  handful  of  soot  or 
wood  ashes  sprinkled  over  the  drainage.  Pot  firmly,  and  accelerate 
growth  as  far  as  it  is  consistent  with  a  sturdy  habit. 
Strawberries  In  Pots. — For  securing  sturdy  runners  early  planted 
ones  of  last  year  afford  them  soonest  and  best,  especially  when  not 
overcropped  and  not  neglected  for  watering.  The  plant  should  have 
shown  blossoms,  because  runners  from  fruitful  plants  always  turn  out 
better  than  those  from  fruitless  strong-growing  parents.  The  runners 
may  be  (1)  layered  in  the  fruiting  pots,  (2)  on  turves,  and  (3)  in  small 
pots.  All  three  plans  are  good.  In  any  case  it  is  essential  that  the 
first  runners,  which  give  the  finest  plantlets,  should  be  selected,  and 
that  they  be  induced  by  watering  to  emit  roots  freely  at  once,  so  that 
they  may  by  judicious  attention  develop  into  sturdy  plants  and 
form  good  crowns.  If  layered  into  the  largest  pots  they  need  not  be 
detached  until  thoroughly  established.  Those  layered  in  turves  or 
3-inch  pots  should,  as  soon  as  rooted  properly,  be  detached  and  stood  ia 
a  shady  place  for  a  few  days,  preparatory  to  shifting  them  into  the 
fruiting  pots.  These  may  be  6-inch  for  very  early  work  and  6-inch  for 
succession,  with  7-inch  for  late  forcing.  Nothing  is  gained,  however, 
by  using  large  pots. 
For  very  early  use  La  Giosse  Sucr4e  is  unrivalled,  as  it  both  sets  and 
swells  the  fruit  well,  this  being  of  good  size,  colour,  and  quality. 
Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thnry  also  sets,  swells,  and  finishes  fine  glossy 
fruits  of  good  flavour.  Royal  Sovereign  cannot  well  be  termed  a  first 
early,  but  is  excellent  as  a  second,  or  where  few  are  grown  may  take  the 
former  position.  It  is  everything  that  can  well  be  desired  in  cropping, 
colour,  and  quality.  If  the  Keen’s  Seedling  be  had  true  it  has  merits 
that  are  always  appreciated  for  home  use,  the  deep  colour  and  fine 
quality  always  pleasing.  Similar  remarks  apply  to  Sir  Harry  and 
President,  but  neither  travels  well.  Noble  has  much  to  recommend  it  for 
cropping  and  size,  but  there  it  ends  ;  and  Auguste  Nicaise,  though  much 
brighter  in  colour  and  in  flavour,  is  considered  coarse  by  some,  but  both 
are  esteemed  for  supply  and  appearance.  Sir  Joseph  Paxton  yields  to 
no  other  for  affording  full  crops  of  large  and  first  quality  fruit  as  a  mid¬ 
season  or  rather  late  forcer.  For  brightness  of  colour  Sir  Charles  Napier 
stands  supreme,  not  any  shine  like  it,  but  it  belies  the  looks  in  quMity. 
Lucas,  a  very  compact  grower,  produces  abundance  of  the  choicest 
quality  fruit,  and  gives  a  fitting  foretaste  of  British  Queen,  as  also  does 
Gunton  Park.  Dr.  Hogg  and  Cockscomb,  with  La  Constante,  run  the 
“  Queen  ”  hard  for  quality,  yet  spite  of  all  it  remains  supreme.  Waterloo 
as  a  darkie  of  good  using  quality  may  have  place,  but  some  do  not, 
while  others  appreciate  very  dark-coloured  fruit. 
The  pots  must  be  clean  inside  and  outside,  have  a  large  crock  over 
the  opening,  three  or  four  of  lesser  size,  and  some  smaller  still,  so  as 
to  form  about  an  inch  of  drainage.  This  should  be  secured  with  the 
rougher  parts  of  the  compost  rammed  tightly  down.  Turfy  loam,  strong 
rather  than  light,  must  form  the  staple  of  the  compost.  Break  it  up 
roughly,  adding  about  half  a  pint  of  bonemeal,  pint  of  soot,  and  a  quart 
of  wood  ashes  to  each  bushel  of  soil.  If  these  are  not  at  hand,  the 
advertised  fertilisers  answer  equally  well,  following  in  each  case  the 
instructions  given  with  them.  Let  the  compost  be  moderately  dry  when 
used,  for  if  wet  it  will  shrink  after  potting,  leaving  the  sides  of  the  pot. 
Bring  the  soil  in  the  pot  up  to  the  required  height,  ram  it  firmly,  and 
finish,  so  that  the  base  of  the  crown  will  be  about  half  an  inch  below 
the  rim,  which  must  be  left  clear  for  watering,  allowing  a  little  more  for 
the  large  size  of  pot.  Stand  the  pots  on  a  hard  base  in  an  open  situation, 
but  sheltered  from  strong  winds,  with  sufficient  space  between  them  to 
allow  the  full  exposure  of  the  foliage.  Give  water  as  required,  and 
sprinkle  the  foliage  for  a  few  days  after  potting.  If  this  be  followed 
each  evening  it  greatly  assists  the  plants.  When  the  roots  are  working 
freely  in  the  fresh  soil  copious  supplies  of  water  will  be  needed,  and 
always  give  sufficient  to  moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  The 
plants  must  not  be  allowed  to  flag,  and  the  soil  ought  not  to  be  soddened 
by  needless  waterings.  Remove  runners  and  weeds  as  they  appear. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Asparagus. — Abundance  of  sunshine  has  so  materially  hastened 
the  crops  of  Peas  that  there  ought  to  be  no  further  excuse  for  continuing 
to  cut  Asparagus  shoots,  even  in  the  latest  districts.  It  should  always 
be  remembered  that  the  foundation  for  next  season’s  success  is  laid 
during  the  preceding  summer.  Unless  the  plants  form  strong  growths 
moderately  early  in  the  summer,  and  these  are  taken  good  care  of,  by 
roughly  supporting  with  stakes  and  raffia,  or  Pea  stakes,  if  need  be, 
there  will  be  no  strong  basal  buds  formed,  and  no  resulting  fat  shoots 
the  following  spring.  Where  growths  come  up  very  thickly  none  of 
them  will  be  extra  strong,  and  it  pays  to  thin  them  out  in  June  or  early 
in  July.  More  good  can  also  be  done  now  in  the  way  of  feeding  with 
liquid  manure  or  by  washing  in  a  surfacing  of  salt  and  guano  or  special 
manure  than  can  be  done  by  heavy  autumnal  or  spring  dressings  of 
manure.  A  summer  mulching  with  short  strawy  manure  acts  bene¬ 
ficially,  as  it  conserves  the  moisture  and  keeps  down  weeds.  Too  often 
these  are  allowed  to  get  the  upper  hand  during  a  busy  season,  and  the 
consequence  is  a  legacy  of  seeds,  that  proves  to  be  a  great  nuisance  in 
after  years.  They  must  be  kept  under  now. 
Runner  Beans. — On  no  account  delay  staking  the  late  rows  till 
the  plants  are  all  entwined  round  each  other.  Those  grown  thinly,  or 
nearer  12  inches  than  4  inches  apart,  will  be  found  to  be  the  last  to  fail 
in  hot  dry  weather,  and,  as  a  rule,  much  the  heaviest  croppers.  Regulate 
them  early,  and  if  comparatively  short  stakes  are  used  top  the  running 
growths  directly  they  have  reached  the  ends  of  these.  Those  to  be 
grown  without  stakes  ought  to  be  gone  over  every  week,  and  have  all 
running  growths  cut  hard  back.  Unless  this  is  done  they  will  quickly 
become  matted  together,  and  the  crops  will  be  of  little  value  accordingly. 
Mulch  with  strawy  manure  for  the  double  purpose  of  keeping  the  ground 
moist  and  the  pods  clean. 
Cabbage. — Leaving  old  stumps  to  form  fresh  heads  has  a  most 
impoverishing  effect  upon  the  ground,  and  is  also  objectionable  where 
perennial  weeds  are  apt  to  be  troublesome,  but  they  frequently  produce 
very  acceptable  supplies  of  tender  young  hearts  for  autumn  and  winter 
use.  Coleworts  or  small  quick-hearting  Cabbages  if  grown  in  quantity 
may,  however,  prove  more  profitable  and  less  impoverishing.  It  is  not 
yet  too  late  to  sow  seed  of  the  popular  London  Rosette  or  other 
favourite  small  varieties,  but  a  fortnight  earlier  would,  perhaps, 
have  best  met  the  case  ;  a  bed  of  small  plants  being  ready  to  plant 
thickly  in  close  succession  to  autumn-sown  Onions,  Garlic,  and  Shallots. 
The  plan  of  sowing  the  seed  where  the  bulk  of  the  Coleworts  are  to  grow 
