July  If,  189?, 
JOURl^AL  OP  HORTlGULTURE  APR  COTTAGE  OARDEKER 
61 
will  soon  be  cleared  of  drapes.  They  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed' 
employing  an  insecticide  if  necessary,  and  the  foliage  be  preserved  in 
health  as  long  as  possible  by  occasional  syringing,  full  ventilation 
constantly,  and  due  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  at  the  roots. 
Muscat!  Ripening. — Unless  the  season  is  exceptionally  fine,  and  the 
Vines  started  early,  Muscats  require  fire  heat  to  insure  their  perfect 
Diaturation,  even  when  ripening  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  year.  The 
time  taken  by  Muscat  of  Alexandria  to  ripen  is  not  less  than  six  to 
eight  weeks  from  commencing  to  colour,  and  if  the  Grapes  are  extra  fine, 
and  the  Vines  in  vigorous  health,  perfect  finish  is  not  had  for  some  time 
longer.  They  require  time,  with  assistance  from  fire  heat,  so  as  to  secure 
a  night  temperature  of  70®,  75°  to  85°  by  day,  up  to  90°  or  more,  wit6 
abundance  of  air.  A  rather  dry  atmosphere  is  essential  to  the  attain¬ 
ment  of  that  golden  hue  characteristic  of  rich  and  full  Muscat  fiavonr. 
This  is  secured  by  free  ventilation,  a  little  constantly,  but  the  atmosphere 
must  not  become  arid,  damping  down  occasionally.  In  large  houses  the 
moisture  arising  from  the  borders  is  enough,  except  in  hot  weather,  then 
the  borders  and  paths  should  be  damped  daily.  Too  much  moisture  is 
fatal  to  Muscats  when  ripening,  causing  them  to  “spot,”  therefore  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes,  and  a  little 
air  constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries. 
Abundant  supplies  of  water  must  be  given  to  the  roots,  for  when  there 
is  a  deficiency  of  moisture  the  Grapes  shrivel.  With  the  borders  properly 
constructed,  and  the  drainage  thorough,  too  much  water  can  hardly  be 
given  at  the  roots,  after  the  leaves  are  full-sized,  until  the  Grapes  are 
well  advanced  in  ripening.  Needless  waterings,  however,  are  baneful, 
causing  shanking,  and  driblets,  mere  damping  of  the  surface,  very 
inefiective,  doing  quite  as  much  harm  as  good,  besides  being  deceptive  of 
the  right  indication  of  the  soil  beneath  as  regards  moisture. 
Young  Vines. — Canes  planted  this  season  should,  provided  they  are 
to  be  cut  down  to  the  bottom  of  trellis,  leaving  three  buds  there  for 
furnishing  a  continuation  of  the  rod  and  two  side  shoots  for  bearing  next 
year,  be  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  so  as  to  secure  a  good  root  for¬ 
mation  and  sturdy  stems.  Any  Vines  intended  for  producing  full  crops 
next  season  on  the  extent  considered  snfiSciently  stout  in  rod,  should  have 
the  laterals  issuing  from  the  side  of  the  buds  to  which  they  are  to  be 
shortened,  stopped  to  one  leaf,  and  the  principal  leaves  kept  free  of 
growths^  If  permanent  Vines  the  cane  need  not  be  shortened  till  it  has 
grown  to  the  top  of  the  house,  cutting  back  at  the  winter  pruning  to 
three  good  buds  from  the  bottom  of  the  rafter  or  trellis,  and  only 
allowing  the  side  growths  to  bear  each  a  bunch  of  Grapes  in  the  second 
year  to  prove  the  variety,  taking  the  leading  growths  forward  without 
croppingi  Supernumeraries  intended  for  next  year’s  bearing  and  then 
to  be  removed  should  be  stopped  at  a  length  of  7  to  9  feet,  pinching  the 
laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  snb-lateials  in  like  manner.  These  ought  to  be 
shortened  in  September,  and  by  degrees  cut  away  close  to  the  cane,  and 
in  a  fortnight  afterwards  the  Vines  should  be  pruned  to  the  first  plump 
bud  below  the  first  stopping,  leaving  the  old  leaves  to  die  off  naturally. 
Thorough  ripening  of  the  wood  is  important,  a  free  circulation  of  air 
being  necessary,  with  fire  heat  if  the  weather  be  cold  and  wet. 
Melons. — Stopping  and  Removing  Growths. — During  moist  and 
warm  weather  the  plants  grow  rapidly,  and  should  be  gone  over  at  least 
once  a  week,  and  in  the  case  of  vigorous  plants  twice,  for  the  removal  of 
Bupeifluous  shoots,  the  principal  growths  being  fully  exposed  to  light. 
Overcrowding  is  the  greatest  evil  in  Melon  culture,  because  the  excessive 
foliage  must  be  thinned,  and  its  removal  results  in  exudation  from  the 
wounds,  gangrene  sets  in,  and  the  affected  parts  perish  through  “  wet 
rot  ”  (bacterial  growths)  or  mould  (fungoid  developments).  To  arrest 
these  antiseptics  must  be  used.  The  best  for  the  purpose  is  quicklime, 
rubbing  it  well  into  the  affected  parts,  and  repeating  as  necessary.  But 
the  worst  effect  of  removing  a  large  quantity^of  growth  is  giving  a  check 
to  the  fruit,  not  unfrequeotly  causing  it  to  cease  swelling,  and  it  becomes 
hard  in  the  flesh.  Fungoid  growths  fasten  on  the  exudation,  and 
moisture  settles  on.  the  fruit,  commonly  at  the  blossom  end,  where  ripe 
rot  fungus  obtains  a  seat,  and  gaining  access  to  the  flesh  causes  it  to 
decay  when  it  should  ripen.  These  disasters  are  generally  preventible 
by  attending  to  the  thinning  and  stopping  of  the  growths.  Therefore 
when  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelling  the  laterals  should  be  pinched  to  one 
leaf,  and  if  this  results  in  too  much  foliage,  so  that  the  leaves  on  the 
primary  growths  are  crowded  or  shaded  by  them,  thinning  must  be 
resorted  to,  removing  a  little  at  a  time. 
Watering. — If  Melons  are  kept  too  dry  a  check  is  given  that  will 
cause  the  plants  to  collapse  before  the  fruit  is  fully  developed,  and 
that  ripens  prematurely.  The  great  point  is  not  to  allow  flagging  at 
any  time,  and  yet  not  to  give  water  until  the  soil  is  getting  rather  dry, 
when  a  thorough  supply  should  be  afforded.  Plants  with  a  large  extent 
of  rooting  space  usually  need  water  or  liquid  manure  once  a  week,  those 
with  lets  rooting  area  twice  a  week,  and  those  in  pots  or  boxes  once 
or  twice  a  day.  Eegard  must  be  had  to  the  weather  and  the  actual 
needs  of  the  plants.  When  setting  and  ripening  it  will  be  sufficient  to 
keep  the  foliage  from  flagging,  and  if  watering  is  necessary  it  should  be 
given  without  wetting  the  surface  more  than  can  be  helped. 
Damping  and  Syringing, — At  the  time  of  setting  and  ripening  mois¬ 
ture  must  be  entirely  withheld  from  the  atmosphere,  but  the  paths 
and  walks  of  bouses  may  be  damped  in  the  morning  and  early  after¬ 
noon,  or  occasionally  only  in  not  very  bright  weather.  When  the 
blossoms  are  about  expanding  withhold  water  from  the  foliage  or  the 
fruit  will  not  set,  and  when  the  fruit  is  ripening  it  must  not  be  we' ted 
or  a  close  moist  atmosphere  kept,  as  these  are  fatal  to  flavour  and 
often  the  cause  of  the  fruit  cracking.  With  the  fruit  swelling  syringe 
well  at  closing  time,  and  if  morning  syringing  is  practised  it  should  be 
doae  early  ;  but  the  liberal  damping  of  the  paths  is  better  than  wetting 
the  foliage.  Plants  in  frames  should  be  sprinkled  at  closing  time,  being 
careful  to  keep  the  water  from  the  neck  or  collar  of  the  plants. 
Temperature, — In  most  cases  fire  heat  is  not  now  required,  as  with 
due  regard  to  early  closing  the  night  temperature  may  be  kept  from 
falling  below  65°.  In  dull  periods,  however,  a  little  fire  heat  may  be 
desirable  to  maintain  a  buoyant  atmosphere  when  the  fruit  is  setting  or 
ripening.  Plants  at  those  times  are  better  for  linings,  so  as  to  allow  of 
a  circulation  of  air,  otherwise  the  temperature  will  be  ruled  by  external 
conditions,  yet  it  ought  to  be  maintained  at  65°  at  night  and  70°  to  75® 
by  day. 
Ventilating. — Nothing  answers  better  than  leaving  a  little  air  on  at 
night  to  prevent  excessive  moisture,  increasing  the  ventilation  early  in 
the  morning  of  fine  days  when  the  temperature  has  advanced  to  75°,  and 
gradually  increase  it  with  the  rising  heat,  keeping  through  the  day  at 
80°  to  90°,  and  closing  sufficiently  early  to  rise  to  95°  or  100°,  and  before 
nightfall  admit  a  “  crack”  of  air  at  the  top  of  the  house.  When  the 
fruit  is  ripening  admit  air  freely,  a  little  constantly,  as  it  is  moisture  on 
the  rind  and  pent  up  moisture  in  the  fruit  that  causes  cracking. 
Likewise  when  the  fruit  is  setting  allow  a  circulation  constantly,  as 
moisture  on  the  fructifying  organs  causes  their  destruction. 
Routine. — Put  supports  to  the  fruits  before  they  become  heavy  and 
kink  the  Vine,  letting  the  board  slant  so  as  not  to  hold  water.  Place  slates 
beneath  the  fruits  of  plants  in  frames,  raising  the  Melons  as  they 
advance  in  swelling  on  inverted  flower  pots  above  the  foliage,  but 
retaining  the  slates  for  the  fruit  to  rest  on.  After  a  period  of  dull 
weather  it  is  desirable  to  afford  a  slight  shade  for  a  few  hours  in  the 
hottest  part  of  the  day  to  prevent  the  foliage  flagging,  and  tender  fruit 
from  being  scorched.  A  slight  shade  is  useful  over  fruit  in  the  ripening 
stage  when  it  is  exposed  directly  to  the  sun,  especially  when  the  plants 
do  not,  from  indifferent  vigour,  supply  moisture  to  the  fruit  freely. 
Insects. — Black  aphides  sometimes  become  troublesome.  The  best 
remedy  is  fumigation  with  tobacco  paper  on  two  or  three  consecutive 
evenings,  taking  care  to  have  the  foliage  dry  and  to  deliver  the  smoke 
cool.  Avoid  an  overdose  and  mat  up  frames  to  keep  in  the  smoke. 
Thrips  also  yield  to  tobacco  smoke.  For  red  spider  there  is  nothing 
better  than  proper  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  and  soil.-  A  little  flowers 
of  sulphur  on  slates  so  that  the  sun  can  act  upon  it  gives  off  fumes  hate* 
ful  to  red  spider  and  fungous  pests.  Canker  is  caused  by  damp  in  many 
cases,  but  it  is  inherent  in  some  varieties.  It  is  averted  by  a  drier  atmo¬ 
sphere  and  keeping  water  from  the  stems  ;  to  arrest  it  rub  quicklime  into 
the  affected  parts  until  dry,  repeating  if  necessary.  By  those  means  the 
plants  can  generally  be  kept  alive  until  the  crop  is  perfected. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Carnations. — If  not  already  done  a  mulching  of  old  Mushroom-bed 
manure  or  leaf  soil  should  be  given  Carnations  after  very  lightly 
loosening  the  surface,  and  giving  a  good  watering.  This  will  serve  to 
prolong  the  display  considerably.  The  Margaret  Carnations,  if  raised 
moderately  early  and  duly  planted  out,  will  flower  strongly  in  August  or 
September,  though  not  if  they  are  topped ;  give  these  also  the  benefit  of 
a  mulch. 
Propagating  Carnations. — If  the  smaller  side  shoots  are  slipped 
off  now  these  will  root  quite  as  readily  ai  Pinks  in  a  frame  or  hand- 
lights  placed  at  the  foot  of  a  north  wall  or  fence.  In  warm  moist 
localities  bottom  heat  may  be  dispensed  with,  but  a  very  slight  hotbed 
is  of  good  assistance.  Pack  enough  material  inside  the  frames  to  raise 
about  4  inches  of  loamy  gritty  soil  well  up  to  the  light,  and  face  over 
with  sharp  sand.  Little  or  no  trimming  is  rtquiied  by  short  slips,  but 
longer  cuttings  or  any  upwards  of  4  inches  in  length  should  be  shoitened, 
not,  however,  by  cutting  with  a  knife,  the  better  plan  being  to  pull  them 
cleanly  apart  at  a  joint.  Fix  them  firmly  in  the  soil,  give  a  gentle 
watering,  and  keep  close  and  shaded  from  what  bright  sunshine  reaches 
the  frame  till  rooted. 
Saving  Pink  Seed. — Seed  if  ripe  may  be  either  stored  till  next 
spring,  or  else  be  sown  at  once.  When  quite  new  yet  properly  ripened 
it  germinates  quickly  either  on  a  well  prepared  border  or  in  boxes  set  in 
a  cool  shady  position.  If  not  sown  very  thickly  neat  little  plants  will 
be  formed  before  the  winter  arrives,  those  in  boxes  being  kept  in  cool 
frames.  Mrs.  Sinkins,  and  varieties  raised  from  that  robist  popular 
form,  come  quite  true  from  seed,  and  young  plants  partaking  somewhat 
of  a  perpetual  flowering  character  are  more  likely  to  flower  the  same 
season  they  are  planted  out  than  are  the  more  delicate  varieties. 
Bollybocks.— Red  spider  can  be  destroyed  by  mixing  a  handful 
of  flowers  of  sulphur  into  a  paste  and  then  mix  it  with  two  gallons  of 
clear  water,  and  with  a  syringe  thoroughly  wet  both  the  under  and 
upper  surfaces  of  the  leaves.  Black  fly  is  also  prevalent  on  Hollyhocks 
in  some  gardens,  and  this  may  be  got  rid  of  by  means  of  tobacco  powder 
or  strong  snuff,  puffing  this  well  over  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  No 
side  shoots  should  be  allowed  to  grow  on  any  of  the  plants.  They 
ought  to  be  kept  well  supplied  with  moisture  at  the  roots,  and  be  given 
a  mulching  of  short  manure.  If  leaf  buds  are  found  at  the  axils  of  the 
leaves  of  any  side  shoots  removed,  the  latter  may  be  cut  into  short 
lengths,  placed  singly  in  small  pots,  and  rooted  in  a  gentle  but  not  very 
moist  heat.  All  that  develop  into  plants  should  be  shifted  into  larger 
pots  before  they  become  much  root-bound. 
Dahlias. — Old  stools  push  up  very  many  more  shoots  than  should 
be  left  to  grow,  much  better  results  following  upon  the  practice  of 
confining  the  plants  to  a  single  stem,  or  at  the  most  two  stems.  These 
being  kept  properly  secured  to  a  strong  stake,  will  branch  strongly  and 
produce  either  a  few  extra  fine  blooms  for  exhibition  purposes,  or  an 
abundance  of  ordinary  good  flowers.  If  the  former  are  desired  about 
