JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
July  22,  1897. 
cS4 
a  minute  “  red  spider,”  and  this  only  quite  close  to  the  hot  water  pipes. 
This  comparative  freedom  from  insect  pests  may  be  attributed  to  the 
peculiar  smell  which  the  foliage  possesses. 
The  plant  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds  and  cuttings,  the 
former  being  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  the  latter  inserted  as  soon  as  pro¬ 
curable  in  small  pots  filled  with  sandy  peat  and  loam,  and  kept  in  brisk 
heat. — Y  oungstee. 
Cultivation  of  Oranges. 
Although  Oranges  are  not  grown  for  dessert  purposes  so  much 
now  as  in  former  times,  fruiting  plants  or  trees  are  almost  indispensable  for 
winter  decoration.  Specimens  may  be  obtained  from  cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  wood,  under  a  bell-glass,  in  a  bottom  heat  of  75°,  growing  the 
plants  well  for  two  or  three  seasons. 
During  growth  they  must  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry  at  the 
roots,  and  frequent  syringings  are  necessary  to  keep  the  foliage  clean 
and  healthy.  Abundance  of  light,  and  a  free  circulation  of  air,  are 
essential  conditions  for  producing  the  sturdy  growth  and  large  glossy 
leaves  which  betoken  good  health.  By  judicious  pruning,  and  stopping 
strong  growths,  trees  2  feet  high,  and  brought  into  bloom  in  February 
or  early  March,  will  bear  sufficient  fruit  to  ripen,  and  help  to  make  the 
conservatory  attractive  in  the  depth  of  winter.  Tying  and  twisting  the 
branches  in,  with  the  object  of  showing  the  fruit  better,  should  be 
avoided  as  much  as  possible  ;  allowing  them  to  appear  in  natural  freedom 
is  decidedly  more  artistic. 
Should  mealy  bug  attack  the  plants  petroleum  and  water  sprayed  on 
by  a  careful  operator  is  an  effectual  method  of  dealing  with  it,  or  if  red 
spider  and  thrips  show  themselves  sponging  with  softsoap  will  eradicate 
the  pests. — R.  A.  Anderson,  Alnwick. 
[Our  correspondent  will  oblige  by  allowing  fully  twice’  the  amount 
of  space  between  the  lines  of  hia  generally  well-written  communications.! 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
rigs’. — Trees  in  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — Red  spider  is  the  worst 
enemy  of  the  Fig,  barring  scale,  and  must  be  subdued  by  forcible 
syringing  at  least  once  a  day,  in  hot  weather  twice,  directing  the  force 
of  the  water  against  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  and  if  this  is  not  suffi¬ 
cient  an  insecticide  must  be  used,  as  it  is  important  that  the  foliage  be 
kept  clean  and  perform  its  functions  to  the  last.  Scale  does  not  yield 
to  water,  but  requires  treatment  with  an  insecticide,  than  which  there 
is  nothing  better  than  soluble  petroleum.  This  is  easily  made  by 
dissolving  one  part  of  softsoap  in  eight  parts  water  by  boiling,  and  then 
adding  petroleum  to  any  extent  not  greater  than  the  extent  of  the 
dissolved  soap  and  water,  stirring  well.  For  syringing  use  a  wine- 
glassful  of  the  soluble  petroleum  to  3  gallons  of  water,  and  for  applying 
with  a  brush  to  scale  on  wood  that  amount  to  1  gallon.  It  is  best  to 
use  hot  water  for  mixing,  and  apply  when  cooled  to  90°  to  100°.  Afford 
liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  not  to  the  extent  of  causing  exuberance,  but 
to  insure  a  due  supply  of  nourishment  and  the  storing  of  assimilated 
matter  in  the  wood.  Pinching,  with  a  view  to  induce  a  neat  habit  in 
young  plants,  with  fruitfulness,  must  be  attended  to,  regulating  the 
stopping  by  the  vigour  of  the  plants  and  varieties.  Strong  growing 
sorts  will  need  to  be  more  closely  pinched  than  those  of  moderate 
growth,  but  in  all  cases  avoid  overcrowding  the  shoots,  for  fruitfulness 
is  not  so  much  dependent  on  ample  foliage  as  on  a  legitimate  proportion 
duly  exposed  to  light.  The  trees  must  not  be  huddled  together,  but 
each  have  space  essential  to  the  proper  development  of  the  tree  under 
all  the  light  possible,  and  free  ventilation  to  solidify  the  growth  as  it  is 
made.  For  early  forcing  the  small  varieties  Early  Violet  and  St.  John’s, 
with  Pingo  de  Mel  and  Brown  Turkey  to  follow,  are  suitable. 
Second  Crops. — Planted-out  trees  started  about  the  new  year  will 
have  the  second  crop  in  an  advanced  state,  and  must  have  a  final 
thinning  if  not  already  effected,  reserving  those  fruits  near  the  base  of 
the  growths,  which  finish  better  than  those  near  the  points.  Thinning 
is  of  vital  importance,  because  fruit-bearing  is  an  exhausting  process,  and 
the  first  crop  having  to  be  borne  on  the  young  growths  of  the  preceding 
year,  that  part  must  not  be  enfeebled  by  carrying  a  heavy  load  of  fruit. 
First  crops  are  the  most  valuable.  Any  cultivator  can  grow  second 
crops,  and  the  chief  cause  of  the  failure  of  the  first  is  imperfect  ripening 
of  the  wood.  Nor  must  the  energies  of  the  trees  be  taxed  too  severely 
by  the  second  crop  if  they  are  intended  to  afford  fruit  early  next  season. 
Attend  regularly  to  training  and  stopping  the  shoots,  keeping  the  points 
well  exposed  to  the  light.  Train  thinly,  tie  loosely,  and  leave  plenty  of 
space  in  the  ligatures  for  the  shoots  to  swell.  Stop  side  shoots  at  the 
fifth  leaf,  and  rub  off  those  not  required,  for  spur  growths  to  the  extent 
of  crowding  are  fatal  to  fruitfulness. 
Afford  water  copiously  through  a  light  mulching  of  short  lumpy 
manure,  not  any  surpassing  horse  droppings  duly  sweetened.  If  used 
fresh  and  too  abundantly  there  is  danger  of  injury  to  the  young  growths. 
Such  dressing  admits  air,  and  contains  ammoniacal  elements  of  great 
benefit  to  the  trees.  Liquid  manure  will  be  necessary  according  to  the 
vigour  of  the  trees  and  the  extent  of  the  rooting  area.  Trees  in  narrow 
borders  may  need  it  every  day,  others  at  longer  intervals.  They  can 
hardly  have  too  much  water  in  hot  weather,  and  they  stone  more  in  a 
week  of  fine  weather  than  in  a  month  of  dull.  The  border,  however, 
must  be  of  sound  material,  and  the  roots  active.  Forcibly  dislodge  red 
spider  by  syringing  twice  a  day,  which,  with  proper  feeding,  will 
occasion  little  need  of  insecticides  ;  but  scale  must  be  removed  with  a 
brush  and  a  soapy  solution.  Admit  a  little  air  constantly,  increase  it 
early  and  close  early,  with  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture,  allowing  the 
heat  to  rise  to  90°,  and  the  fruit  will  swell  to  a  good  size.  Then  a  circu¬ 
lation  of  air  constantly  will  enable  the  grower  to  produce  Figs  of  the 
highest  quality,  which  are  wholesome,  nutritious,  and  much  appreciated 
at  dessert. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines, — Early  Forced  Trees. — Where  trees 
are  grown  in  pots  of  the  very  early  varieties,  such  as  Alexander,  Early 
Beatrice,  Early  Louise.  Hale’s  Early,  Dr.  Hogg,  and  Stirling  Castle 
Peaches  ;  Cardinal,  Early  Rivers,  Advance,  and  Lord  Napier 
Nectarines,  they  may  be  placed  outdoors  as  soon  as  the  wood  has  become 
firm,  assigning  them  a  sheltered  sunny  situation,  keeping  duly  syringed 
and  supplied  with  water.  They  will  then  not  be  liable  to  over- maturity 
of  wood  or  buds,  and  buds  will  form  on  the  laterals,  which  usually  set 
freely.  Planted-out  trees  started  at  or  before  the  new  year  have  been 
cleared  of  fruit,  and  the  wood  on  which  it  was  borne  removed.  This, 
and  the  taking  out  of  any  superfluous  shoots,  admit  light  and  air,  so 
that  the  wood  retained  becomes  brown  and  hard,  and  the  buds  attain 
perfect  formation,  but  this  is  contingent  upon  clean  foliage  and  proper 
supplies  of  nutriment.  The  trees,  therefore,  must  be  syringed,  and,  if 
necessary,  have  an  approved  insecticide  promptly  applied,  supplying 
water,  and  in  the  case  of  weakly  trees  liquid  manure,  to  the  roots  so  as  to 
keep  the  soil  healthfully  moist.  Mulching  with  light  rather  lumpy 
manure  a  couple  of  inches  thick  will  keep  the  surface  moist,  the  roots 
active,  prevent  the  soil  cracking,  and  assist  in  the  retention  of  the 
foliage  in  health.  The  buds  will  be  sufficiently  advanced  and  the  wood 
matured  to  allow  the  roof  lights  to  be  removed,  and  this  should  not  be 
further  delayed.  This  secures  a  sort  of  rest,  has  a  most  beneficial  effect 
on  the  trees,  while  the  soil  becomes  well  moistened  by  the  autumn  rains. 
Succession  Houses. — The  grand  varieties  Dymond,  Royal  George, 
Grosse  Mignonne,  Noblesse,  Bellegarde,  and  Goshawk  Peaches  ;  Lord 
Napier,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Dryden,  Humboldt,  and  Pineapple  Nectarines 
are  now  ripening  on  trees  started  in  February,  and  leave  very  little  to  be 
desired  in  size,  form,  colour  and  quality.  As  the  fruit  is  cleared  off  the 
trees,  cut  out  the  wood  that  has  borne  it,  thinning  the  growths  where 
they  are  so  close  that  the  foliage  cannot  have  exposure  to  light  and  air. 
Cleanse  the  growth  by  means  of  the  syringe  or  engine  with  water  of 
dust  and  red  spider  or  other  insects,  using  an  insecticide  if  necessary. 
Keep  the  borders  moist,  not  soddened,  affording  liquid  manure  if  the 
trees  are  weak,  have  borne  heavily,  and  the  buds  are  not  developing 
well,  but  keep  it  from  those  inclined  to  over-luxuriance.  Stop  all 
laterals  to  one  joint,  but  where  the  buds  are  in  an  advanced  condition 
allow  a  little  lateral  extension,  which  prevents  the  premature  ripening 
of  the  foliage  by  continuing  the  root  action  with  at  the  same  time 
growth  on  which  to  expend  it  without  danger  of  starting  the  principal 
buds.  When  the  buds  are  well  formed,  the  fruit  having  been  cleared 
off  the  trees,  remove  the  roof  lights.  If  under  fixed  roofs  ventilate  to 
the  fullest  possible  extent. 
Trees  Swelling  their  Crops — Those  started  in  March  have  stoned, 
and  are  taking  the  last  swelling.  Draw  the  leaves  aside  and  raise  the 
fruit  by  means  of  laths  with  its  apex  to  the  light.  Water  the  inside 
border  and  outside  if  inclined  to  dryness,  affording  liquid  manure  and  a 
mulch  of  lumpy  manure.  Avoid  a  close  surface,  for  it  excludes  air,  and 
that  it  be  open  is  essential  for  the  assimilation  of  food  for  taking  up  by 
the  roots  as  its  elaboration  by  healthy  foliage.  Ventilate  early,  in  fact 
leave  a  little  air  on  all  night,  syringing  by  7  A.M.,  and  through  the  early 
part  of  the  day  ventilate  freely.  When  the  sun  loses  power  in  the 
afternoon  reduce  the.  ventilation  and  raise  the  temperature  to  85°  to  90° 
about  4  pm.  with  a  good  syringing  and  damping  of  surfaces,  but  it 
must  be  done  with  judgment,  for  when  water  hangs  for  any  length  of 
time  on  the  fruit  during  the  last  swelling  it  is  apt  to  damage  the  skin, 
causing  it  to  crack,  and  imparting  a  musty  flavour ;  therefore  have  the 
fruit  dry  before  night,  and  if  the  day  is  dull  omit  the  morning  syring¬ 
ing.  Directly  the  fruit  commences  ripening  cease  syringing,  but  afford 
air  moisture  by  damping  the  paths,  and  especially  the  border,  whenever 
it  becomes  dry,  ventilating  rather  freely,  and  admit  a  little  air  through¬ 
out  the  night. 
Late  Houses. — If  it  is  desired  to  accelerate  the  ripening  ventilate 
rather  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  and  up  to  the  early  part  of  the 
afternoon,  then  keep  the  heat  obtained  by  reducing  the  ventilation  so  as 
to  secure  80°  to  85°,  and  at  about  4  p.m.  close,  syringe  well,  and  no  harm 
will  come  if  the  temperature  rises  to  90°  or  95°,  ventilating  a  little  at 
the  apex  about  six  o’clock  so  as  to  let  the  pent-up  moisture  escape  and 
the  temperature  gradually  cool  down.  Regulate  and  tie  down  the 
shoots  as  they  advance,  allowing  no  more  than  are  necessary  for  next 
year’s  fruiting  or  for  furnishing  the  trees.  Let  all  have  space  for 
development,  keeping  laterals  stopped  to  one  leaf,  and  retain  growths  to 
attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit.  Any  gross  shoots  pushing  laterals  from  the 
leaf  buds  may  be  cut  back  to  where  the  buds  remain  intact,  or,  if  likely 
to  disarrange  the  equilibrium  of  the  trees,  cut  them  out  altogether. 
They  only  tend  to  promote  gumming,  imperfect  setting,  and  certain 
casting  of  the  fruit  in  stoning.  Draw  the  leaves  aside  from  the  fruits, 
which  raise  from  the  under  side  of  the  trellis  and  expose  to  the  sun.  If 
the  fruit  is  required  retarded  ventilate  freely  day  and  night ;  but  do  not, 
as  a  rule,  have  recourse  to  shading,  though  a  slight  shade  obtained  by 
drawing  herring  nets  over  the  roof  lights  is  beneficial  than  otherwise 
where  the  panes  of  glass  are  large.  Observe  the  conditions  laid  down 
