86 
Journal  or  mRRiGtJLRURR  and  OotRagr  gaRdMM. 
July  h,  1897 
away,  wrapped  up  in  carbolic  cloths.  The  combs  had  not  been 
sweetened  by  exposing  them  to  the  air  previous  to  being  used  on 
this  occasion. 
The  cause  of  the  bees  deserting  their  hive  was  at  once  appa¬ 
rent — the  combs  still  retaining  a  slight  smell  of  carbolic,  the  bees 
absolutely  refused  to  remain  in  the  hive.  Had  the  combs  been 
sweet  the  bees  would  not  have  left  them.  In  every  instance  that 
I  have  inquired  into  of  bees  leaving  their  hives,  I  have  always 
found  a  cause  for  them  doing  so.  If  the  interior  of  the  hive  is 
not  sweet  and  clean,  bees  cannot  be  induced  to  remain  in  it.  If 
disinfectants  have  been  used  on  either  frames  or  hive,  they  should 
be  well  exposed  to  the  weather  for  a  few  days  before  being  used, 
there  will  then  be  no  difficulty  in  getting  the  bees  to  remain  in 
their  hives. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,'*  S,  Rose  Hill 
Road,  Wandsworth,  London,  S.  IF.  It  is  requested  that  no 
one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking 
information  on  matters  discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing 
so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and  expense,  and 
departmental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer  any  letters 
they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects,  through  the 
post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular  subject  from 
any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named,  endeavour  will  be 
made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Oorrespondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions 
relating  to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should 
never  send  more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All 
articles  intended  for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of 
the  paper  only.  We  cannot,  as  a  rule,  reply  to  questions  through 
the  post,  and  we  do  not  undertake  to  return  communications 
which,  for  any  reason,  cannot  be  inserted. 
Canterbury  Bells  with  Deformed  Flowers  (^TilmaJi). — The 
flowers  are  what  is  known  as  “  blind,”  the  corollas  being  suppressed. 
This  is  considered  to  arise  from  using  old  seed,  which  may  in  some  cases 
have  that  effect  more  or  less,  but  the  anthers  are  affected  by  a  fungus 
(Ustilago  antherarum),  which  prevents  the  development  of  the  corollas. 
There  is  no  remedy  but  to  pull  up  the  plants  and  burn  them,  and 
in  future  secure  seed  from  a  fresh  source.  The  spores  of  the  fungus 
probably  go  over  with  the  seeds,  enter  the  plants  by  the  roots,  ascend 
the  stem,  and  develop  in  the  anthers  in  due  course.  This  takes  place 
without  destroying  the  host  plant,  but  completely  spoils  it  for  flowering. 
In  some  cases  seeds  are  formed  without  the  corollas,  and  with  these  the 
spores  of  the  fungus  ara  probably  transmitted. 
Rose  Iieaves  Diseased  (A.  IF.  H.'). — Badly  infested  are  the 
leaves  with  Rose  brand  fungus  (Coleosporium  pingue).  This  is  the 
perfect  stage,  which  may  ba  recognised  as  prevailing  where  the  dark 
brown  or  black  spots  appear,  the  orange  spots  being  the  earlier  condi¬ 
tion,  or  uredo  stage.  Both  occur  together,  the  latter,  however,  first ; 
but  there  are  abundance  of  both  on  the  leaves.  A  worse  case  we  have 
not  seen.  The  resting  spores  remain  over  the  winter,  giving  rise  to  pro- 
mycelia  andspores,  which  push  their  germ-tubes  into  the  tissues,  producing 
abundance  of  orange  coloured  uredo  spores  in  the  spring.  Dust  the 
plants  forthwith  with  a  powder  containing  10  per  cent,  of  sulphate  of 
copper,  such  as  in  the  fungicides  advertised — viz.,  fostite,  anti-fungi,  or 
anti-blight,  using  a  bellows  apparatus  so  as  to  coat  the  leaves  on  the 
under  side  ;  or  spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  taking  care  to  reach  every 
part  of  the  plants.  If  you  do  not  care  to  use  a  poisonous  oreparation 
obtain  permanganate  of  potash  from  a  chemist,  mix  1  oz.  in  3  gallons  of 
water,  and  apply  with  a  fine  rose  syringe,  or,  better,  with  a  spraying 
apparatus,  as  biiog  more  economical  and  effective.  Remove  fallen 
leaves  and  burn  them.  In  winter  use  sulphate  of  iron  ^  oz.  per  tquare 
yard  and  7  Ibe.  of  basic  slag  phosphate  with  If  lb.  of  kainit  per  square 
rod,  digging  in  after  the  leaves  are  down.  When  the  plants  are  quite 
dormant  dress  them  by  means  of  a  brush  with  a  solution  of  bluestone 
(sulphate  of  copper),  1  oz.  to  1.J  gallon  of  water.  Early  in  spring  supply 
4  ozs.  per  square  yard  of  the  following  mixture  Dissolved  bones  five 
parts,  nitrate  of  potash  three  parts,  and  sulphate  of  lime  four  parts, 
mixed,  pointing  in  lightly.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  the  appearance 
of  minute  yellow  spots  on  the  leaves,  or,  pieferably,  before  they  appear 
dust  the  plants  with  a  fungicide  or  spray  with  permanganate  of  potash, 
dissolving  I4  oz.  softsoap  in  each  gallon  of  the  water.  This  causes 
better  adherence  to  the  foliage;  Apply  when  the  first  leaves  are  about 
full-sized,  and  repeat  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks  up  to  the  middle  of 
June, 
Propagating:  Fomegrranate  (J.  T.  iS.).— Plants  may  be  increased 
by  cuttings  of  shoots  when  becoming  firm  at  the  base,  keeping  them 
rather  close  and  shaded  until  rooted.  Some  persona  prefer  inserting 
cuttings  of  ripe  wood  towards  the  end  of  summer  in  sandy  soil. 
Layering  is  a  sure  method  of  increase,  this  being  done  in  pots,  notching 
the  growths  where  they  are  to  be  inserted  in  the  soil,  and  making  each 
secure  with  a  peg.  The  pot  can  be  raised  by  means  of  sticks  to  the 
required  height.  Scarce  varieties  are  increased  by  grafting  on  stocks  of 
the  common  kind,  which  are  raised  from  seed,  usually  taken  from 
imported  fruit,  and  sown  in  sandy  soil  in  gentle  heat  early  in  the  spring. 
The  plants  are  ready  for  grafting  when  of  the  thickness  of  the  scion, 
operating  by  whip-grafting  before  the  grafts  commence  growing,  but 
the  stocks  in  activity. 
Duke  of  Buccleuch  Crapes  Splitting:  (IF.  7*.).— The  chief 
cause  of  the  berries  cracking  is  excessive  moisture  (for  the  variety)  in 
the  atmosphere,  with  too  liberal  supplies  of  nourishment  at  the  critical 
period  of  ripening.  There  is  no  preventive  other  than  allowing  as  good 
a  spread  of  foliage  under  such  circumstances  as  can  well  be  afforded, 
keeping  rather  dry  at  the  roots  and  affording  a  plentiful  amount  of  air, 
some  constantly.  Cutting  through  the  shoot  about  half  way  affords  some 
relief,  but  not  always  enough  ;  therefore  more  air,  so  as  to  induce 
constant  evaporation,  is  the  most  effectual.  Of  course,  this  is  difficult  of 
attainment  with  other  varieties  in  the  house  ;  but  even  the  extra  venti¬ 
lation  will  not  materially  prejudice  the  others,  but  the  border  cannot 
well  be  kept  much  drier  on  their  account.  You  may  notch  the  shoots 
below  the  bunches  still  more,  but  not  so  far  as  to  prejudicially  affect  the 
leaves,  or  not  more  than  to  make  them  a  little  limp  ;  but  air  with  a 
drier  atmosphere  is  the  best  preventive  of  the  evil  in  question. 
Peaches  Hollow  and  Decayed  (U.  S.  IF). — The  large  and  fine 
fruits  were,  as  you  say,  “  hollow  and  decayed  at  the  stone.”  It  is  a  very 
sirious  matter  to  have  smch  grand  fruit  go  wrong  on  a  six-years-old 
tree,  not  a  few  here  and  there,  but  “all  the  same  last  jear  and  this.” 
We  are  sorry  to  see  such  a  result  accrue  from  the  assiduous  attention 
vou  have  given,  and  sympathise  with  you  on  the  misfortune.  The  fruit 
are  what  is  known  as  “  split  at  the  stone.”  The  cause  has  been 
attributed  to  impeifect  fertilisation,  but  in  your  case  the  part  of  the 
kernel  inside  the  integument  was  perfect  in  embryo.  The  splitting  of 
the  stone  in  this  case  arises  from  excessive  development,  the  available 
mineral  elements  not  being  in  due  proportion  with  tbe  nitrogenic. 
Some  varieties,  however,  are  more  subject  to  it  ttau  others.  We  have 
found  lifting  a  complete  preventive,  the  work  being  done  carefully  in 
the  autumn  as  soon  as  the  leaves  give  indications  of  falling,  and  after 
lifting  applying  a  dressing  cf  basic  slag  phosphate,  two  parts;  and 
double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia,  one  part ;  mixed,  using 
4  czs.  of  the  mixture  per  square  yard,  and  pointing  in  with  a  fork 
without  material  prejudice  to  the  roots.  In  the  spring,  when  tbe  trees 
commence  growing,  supply  a  mixture  of  dissolved  law  bones,  dry  and 
crumbling,  three  parts  ;  and  muriate  of  potash,  one  part ;  mixed,  using 
4  czs,  per  square  yard,  covering  with  a  light  mulching  of  decayed  lumpy 
manure,  not  more  than  an  inch  thick.  This,  with  the  usual  cultural 
treatment,  gave  us  complete  immunity  from  “splitting  at  the  stone.” 
The  adveitised  feitilisers  would  answer  quite  as  well,  but  lifting  is  the 
most  needful  operation,  and  if  the  soil  be  deficient  in  lime  add  some 
old  mortar  rubbish,  broken  up  fine,  to  the  soil  as  the  work  proceeds. 
ItSalmalson  Carnation  Plants  Dying  {F.  O'). — The  plant  in 
the  24-8ize  pot  was  completely  decayed  and  dead  at  the  stem  where  in 
contact  with  tbe  soil,  and  in  the  decayed  substance  were  root  stem  eel- 
worm  (Tylenchus  obtusus).  This  was  the  cause  of  the  stem  decaying, 
and  the  “grass”  simplv  collapsed  in  consequence  of  the  supplies  of 
nutriment  being  cut  off,  but  gradually,  so  that  the  foliage  first  became 
pale  and  spotted  here  and  there  and  withered  on  the  plant  from  the  base 
upwards.  The  spots  closely  resemble  those  due  to  the  fairy-ring  spot  fungus 
(Hettrosporium  echinulalum),  which  was  discovered  and  described  by  the 
late  Rev.  M.  J.  Berkeley  twenty-five  years  ago,  butthere  are  neither  hyphse 
in  the  tissues  nor  outgrowths,  and  the  eel  worms  are  confined  to  the  root 
stem.  Even  the  plant  with  an  apparently  sound  root  stem  has  the  spots, 
and  the  stem  tissues  in  the  ground  are  affected  with  the  eel  worm.  The 
cutting  or  small  plant  had  entirely  tuccumbcd  at  the  base — its  trusses 
decay  ed  and  eelwnrm  in  them.  It  is  the  species  named,  not  the  ordinary 
stem  eelworm  (Tylenchus  devastatrix)  ;  but  this  also  attacks  Car¬ 
nations.  The  soil  is  too  open  and  fibrous  for  these  plants.  We  should 
add  to  it  at  hast  24  per  cent,  of  best  chalk  lime,  air-slaked,  or  only  using 
sufilcient  water  in  slaking  to  cause  the  freshly  burned  lime  to  fall  to  a 
fine  powder,  mixing  it  with  the  soil,  and  allowing  this  to  lie  for  a  few 
weeks  before  using.  For  direct  application  to  the  plants,  sprinkle  about 
half  of  a  small  teaspoonful  of  common  salt  on  tbe  soil  of  a  24-size  pot, 
and  water  so  that  the  water  shows  at  the  drainage.  The  next  time  the 
plants  need  water,  use  a  similar  amount  of  basic  slag  phosphate  per  pot, 
and  wash  in  as  with  the  salt.  When  the  plants  rt quire  water  again,  use 
a  similar  amount  of  this  mixture  :  sulphate  of  potash,  three  parts  ;  dis¬ 
solved  bones,  dry  apd  crumbling,  two  parts;  sulphate  of  ammonia,  one 
part ;  mixed,  washing  in  as  before.  The  plants  may  look  rather  sickly 
for  a  time  after  the  application,  but  they  usually  recover  when  not  too 
seriously  infested.  If  you  can  obtain  soluble  phenyle,  mix  at  the  rate  of 
a  quarter  pint  to  three  gallons  of  water,  and  apply  before  the  salt  and 
other  ingredients  are  used.  In  that  case  you  may  use  all  three  substances 
mixed  together — that  is,  one  part  salt,  one  part  basic  slag  phosphate, 
and  one  part  of  the  mixture  of  sulphate  of  potash,  dissolved  bones,  and 
sulphate  of  ammonia,  employing  a  thimbleful  at  intervals  of  a  fortnight 
or  three  weeks  to  a  plant  in  a  24-Bized  pot.  Burn  the  worst  of  thq 
plants,  and  use  less  vegetable  matter  in  the  soil. 
