July  29,  1897, 
JOUmAL  OP  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDEKER. 
91 
wedge-shaped,  and  of  a  Queen-like  flavour.  The  plant  -is  of  a 
compact  habit  of  growth,  and  the  foliage  thick  and  leathery.  If 
only  one  variety  can  be  grown,  let  it  be  Monarch.  Scarlet  Queen 
18  bright,  handsome,  and  rich  flavoured,  and  on  that  account 
should  be  grown  as  a  second  early. 
^  Yeitch’s  Perfection  may,  I  think,  be  truly  described  as  an 
improved  British  Queen.  It  is  the  result  of  a  cross  between  that 
well-known  variety  and  Waterloo,  and  seems  to  retain  the  good 
qualities  of  both  parents.  Among  midseason  varieties  no  better 
one  can  be  found  than  Leader  ;  each  year  it  gains  in  favour,  and  I 
think  will  in  the  future  be  as  widely  popular  as  Sir  Joseph  Paxton 
has  been.  The  latter  good  old  variety  is  still  largely  grown  for 
market  purposes.  On  heavy  soils  it  is  extremely  prolific,  and 
its  handsome  fruit  always  takes  the  eye ;  the  flavour  also  is 
very  good. 
Sensation  will,  I  fancy,  supersede  President,  which  variety 
it  greatly  resembles,  but  is  much  larger.  Laxton’s  Mentmore, 
sent  out  for  the  first  time  this  season,  promises  to  be  a  good  thing. 
It  is  handsome  in  appearance,  and,  unlike  most  Strawberries  of 
recent  introduction,  has  a  smooth  external  skin,  carrying  an 
attractive,  polish . 
It  is  rather  surprising  that  Auguste  Nicaise  is  not  more 
generally  grown,  producing  as  it  does  fruit  of  enormous  size.  I 
have  seen  grand  crops  of  it  at  Wilton  in  Wiltshire,  where  Mr. 
Challis,  Lord  Pembroke’s  able  gardener,  grows  it  splendidly.  A.  F. 
Barron,  Bothwell  Bank,  and  Kitley’s  Goliath  are  also  good  main 
crop  varieties. 
Rich  Flavoured  Varieties. 
There  can,  I  think,  be  no  doubt  that  the  great  size  obtained  in 
Strawberries  of  recent  introduction  has  been  obtained  slightly  at 
the  expense  of  flavour  ;  I,  therefore,  give  the  names  of  a  few  of 
the  best  flavoured  ones  :  Dr.  Hogg,  suitable  for  heavy  soil  ; 
Empress  of  India,  Gunton  Park,  Latest  of  All,  and  Dr.  Roden’s 
Countess  ;  the  last  named  is  both  large  and  handsome,  and  in  every 
way  a  fine  variety. 
Late  Varieties. 
The  season  may  be  greatly  prolonged  by  planting  these  under  a 
north  wall  or  in  some  other  cool  position.  As  a  market  speculation 
such  a  practice  on  a  large  scale  would,  I  think,  prove  remunera¬ 
tive,  and  in  private  gardens  late  Strawberries  are  always  highly 
prized.  The  best  sorts  to  plant  for  the  purpose  are  Frogmore 
Pine,  Lord  Sufl&eld,  Latest  of  All,  and  Waterloo. — Pomona, 
PROPAGATION  OF  CONIFERS  AND  SHRUBS. 
It  is  not  often  that  gardeners  in  private  establishments  under¬ 
take  the  increase  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  Conifers,  but  the  propagation 
of  many  kinds  by  means  of  cuttings  is  easy,  as  they  can  be  readily 
rooted  and  quickly  grown  into  neat  little  bushes.  A  cold  frame  is 
all  the  protection  required  in  the  way  of  glass,  but  it  is  better  if 
two  smaller  ones  can  be  appropriated  instead  of  one  of  the  same 
size  as  the  two,  for  the  reason  that  some  sorts  require  a  longer 
time  to  root  than  others.  Those  that  need  more  time  can  have 
the  protection  of  the  extra  frame,  while  if  the  plants  are  kept 
together  at  the  time  of  insertion  the  early  rooted  plants  can  be 
transferred  to  other  positions  some  months  before  the  latest  varie¬ 
ties.  The  size  of  the  frame  must  be  regulated  by  the  require¬ 
ments  of  the  cultivator. 
A  shallow  frame  answers  the  best,  for  the  reason  that  when  new 
growth  commences  it  is  not  drawn  up  weakly  through  being  so  far 
from  the  glass.  The  bottom  of  the  frame  should  be  covered  with 
coal  ashes,  thorough  drainage  being  essential.  Over  this  have  a 
layer  2  inches  thick  of  decomposed  horse  manure  or  half-decayed 
leaves,  into  which  the  roots  penetrate,  as  the  soil  clings  better  to  the 
roots  when  manure  or  leaf  soil  in  a  rough  state  is  present.  Over 
this  lay  the  soil  3  inches  thick,  which  should  be  composed  of  equal 
parts  loain,  peat,  leaf  soil,  and  sharp  silver  sand.  Many  of  the 
plants  which  are  to  go  into  the  soil  are  really  peat-loving,  therefore 
it  is  necessary  that  peat  be  used  ;  while  some  of  the  kinds  would 
do  equally  well  without,  still  none  objects  to  this  mixture.  Make 
the  soil  quite  firm,  that  it  be  not  of  a  spongy  nature,  as  much 
depends  upon  the  firm  manner  in  which  the  cuttings  are  inserted. 
If  the  soil  be  moist,  as  it  should  be  when  used,  no  difficulty  will  be 
experienced.  Over  the  soil  place  half  an  inch  thickness  of  coarse 
silver  sand,  as  when  the  holes  are  made  for  the  cuttings  some  of 
the  sand  is  carried  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  hole  with  the  dibbler. 
Water  the  soil  with  a  fine- rose  waterpot,  when  all  will  be  ready  for 
the  cuttings.  This  preparation  should  be  made  before  the  cuttings 
are  obtained,  as  no  delay  in  inserting  them  must  occur  after  they 
are  severed  from  the  parent  plants. 
According  to  my  experience  the  best  time  to  take  the  cuttings 
it  during  the  early  part  of  September,  when  the  current  season’s 
growth  will  be  partly  ripened,  sufficiently  so  to  make  callosing  an 
easier  matter  than  if  the  insertion  of  the  cuttings  be  delayed  until 
the  following  month.  Where  it  is  possible  the  cuttings  should  be 
pulled  or  slipped  off,  retaining  a  small  portion  of  older  wood,  which 
is  more  suitable  for  forming  roots  than  the  parts  only  of  the  current 
yeai’s  growth.  Particularly  does  this  apply  to  Conifers.  The  length 
of  the  cuttings  must  be  determined  by  the  plant  under  consideration, 
as,  for  instance,  Retinospora  plumosa  may  be  2  inches  long,  and 
Thuiopsis  will  need  to  be  at  least  4  inches  long  to  obtain  the 
necessary  cut  at  the  base  containing  a  small  portion  of  firm  wood. 
Select  the  cuttings  in  the  manner  described,  cut  square  across  below 
a  joint,  trimming  off  the  lower  branches  or  feather  as  far  as  is 
required  for  the  cutting  to  go  into  the  soil.  Fix  them  firmly  at  the 
bottom  of  the  hole  with  the  dibbler.  Fill  the  holes  again  with  sand 
and  give  a  gentle  watering  to  settle  the  soil  about  tbe  cuttings. 
Unless  the  sun  be  very  powerful  after  this  time  no  more  water  will 
be  required  until  the  spring  beyond  a  light  sprinkling  should  the 
surface  become  dry,  which  will  depend  upon  the  state  of  the 
weather.  For  a  time  shade  the  cuttings  during  the  hottest  part  of 
the  day.  Ventilation  will  not  be  required  except  a  little  now  and 
then  to  evaporate  moisture,  which  will  otherwise  cause  the  cuttings 
to  suffer.  During  the  winter  protect  the  side*  of  the  frame  with 
manure  or  leaves  to  prevent  the  soil  in  the  frame  being  frozen 
too  hard,  as  this  has  the  effect  of  loosening  the  soil  about  the 
cuttings  when  it  thaws,  and  then  roots  are  not  so  quickly  formed. 
Double  mats  thrown  over  the  frame  in  severe  weather  will  be 
beneficial  in  this  respect. 
In  the  spring,  when  it  is  seen  that  new  growth  is  being  formed, 
air  should  be  admitted  freely  to  keep  the  plants  stocky,  as  much 
depends  on  this  for  their  future  welfare  in  forming  shapely  bushes. 
A  western  aspect  for  the  frame  answers  well,  perhaps  better  than 
a  southern  position,  for  the  reason  that  if  some  of  the  cuttings  do 
not  root  so  readily  as  others,  the  powerful  sun  sometimes  ex¬ 
perienced  during  April  and  May  will  dry  them  too  much.  As 
before  stated,  some  kinds  root  more  quickly  than  others,  and  are 
ready  to  be  removed  from  the  frame  during  the  early  part  of  the 
following  June,  and  be  planted  either  in  their  permanent  quarters 
or  be  transferred  to  a  nursery  bed  for  a  season.  When  removal 
from  the  frame  takes  place  tbe  advantage  of  a  layer  of  manure  or 
leaf  soil  will  be  seen  in  the  manner  the  roots  cling  to  it,  rendering 
the  process  much  easier  and  safer  to  the  plants.  The  position  for 
the  plants  the  first  year  may  either  be  on  an  east  or  west  border,  or 
any  open  space  may  be  selected,  planting  either  in  nursery  beds  or 
in  rows  9  inches  apart,  adding  to  each  a  portion  of  leaf  soil  if  the 
natural  soil  be  of  a  heavy  nature,  otherwise  the  addition  of  leaf 
soil  will  not  be  necessary.  Should  the  summer  be  hot  a  mulching 
of  partly  decayed  leaves  between  the  rows  will  be  of  great  advan¬ 
tage  in  keeping  the  roots  cool  and  moist.  I  purpose  naming  these 
kinds  which  root  the  most  readily  and  need  to  be  planted  the  first 
June  after  the  cuttings  were  taken,  as  such  sorts  may  go  in  at  one 
time,  thus  simplifying  the  matter  of  planting  and  frame  room 
later  on.  The  others,  which  require  more  time  to  make  roots, 
should  remain  in  the  cutting  bed  for  a  year,  when  they  could  safely 
be  planted  out  the  following  April.  During  the  summer  and 
autumn  take  the  lights  off  when  it  is  seen  that  all  that  are  going  to 
thrive  have  formed  roots,  as  some  varieties  after  taking  six  months 
to  callus  require  a  still  longer  period  after  that  to  make  roots 
freely.  The  advantage  of  using  two  frames  instead  of  one  is  now 
obvious. 
First  list  for  early  planting. — Retinospora  plumosa,  Cryptomeria 
elegans,  Thuiopsis  borealis,  Thuia  Lobbi,  Cupressus  erecta  viridis, 
Golden  Yews,  Thuia  occidentalis,  Escallonias  macrantha,  Veronica 
Andersoni,  Laurustinus,  Fabiana  imbricata,  Garryaelliptica,  Buddlea 
globosa,  Cotoneaster  Simmondsi,  Kerria  japonica,Lonicera  reticulata 
aurea,  Ampelopsis  Veitchi,  and  A.  hederacea. 
Those  which  require  a  longer  time  to  form  roots. — Welling- 
tonia  gigantea,  Cupressus  macrocarpa,  C.  gracilis,  0.  Lawsoniana, 
Thuia  Wareana,  Retinospora  plumosa  aurea,  Euouymus  japonica 
aurea  variegata,  Lonicera  fragrantissima,  Ceanothus  azureus, 
Jasminum  nudiflorum,  Pyracantha,  and  Myrtles. 
Aucuba  japonica  is  one  of  the  most  useful  evergreen  shrubs  we 
have.  It  is  best  propagated  in  this  manner.  At  the  end  of  Sep¬ 
tember  take  the  cuttings,  4  inches  long  ;  moderately  strong  side 
shoots  are  best,  retaining  a  small  heel.  Insert  them  firmly  in 
sandy  soil  about  eight  or  ten  in  a  7-inch  pot.  Water  gently  to 
settle  the  soil  firm  about  the  cuttings.  Plunge  the  pots  in  ashes 
in  a  cold  frame.  Little  air  will  be  required  in  the  winter  during 
the  time  they  are  callusing.  About  the  middle  of  March  plunge 
the  pots  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  where  roots  will  quickly 
form,  when  the  plants  should  be  hardened  and  planted  out  the 
following  early  part  of  June  along  with  the  rest,  where  they 
should  stay  the  first  year,  and  will  then  be  ready  for  their 
permanent  quarters. 
