July  2J,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
93 
EPILOBIUM  OBCORDATUM. 
The  dwarf-growing  Epilobiums,  many  of  which  are  suitable  for 
growing  on  rockeries,  are  not  so  well  known  in  gardens  as  some  of  the 
taller  species  and  varieties.  Amongst  the  former  E,  obcordatum 
(fig.  14)  may  be  mentioned,  for  although  by  no  means  a  new  plant,  it  is 
worthy  of  extended  cultivation.  It  is  a  native  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
where  it  is  found  at  over  1000  feet  above  sea  level.  It  is  perfectly 
hardy  in  our  gardens,  flowering  incessantly  from  June  until  the  present 
time.  Dry  sunny  slopes  are  the  places  to  be  chosen  on  which  to  plant 
it.  It  soon  covers  the  place  allotted  to  it.  The  flowers  vary  from  three 
to  five  on  each  stem,  over  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  of  a  lovely  dark 
rose  colour.  It  is  easily  injured  by  damp  during  the  winter  season, 
and  should  be  protected  by  a  “  cloche  ”  or  piece  of  glass  raised  above 
the  plant,  so  as  to  allow  free  access  of  air.  A  diflBculty  is  often 
experienced  in  propagating  it,  but  in  heat  it  roots  readily  at  this 
season,  when  the  cuttings  have  been  thoroughly  ripened. 
CULTURE  OF  HERBACEOUS  CALCEOLARIAS. 
Cultivators  of  herbaceous  Calceolarias  find  the  month  of 
July  the  best  time  to  sow  the  seed.  A  portion  is  usually  sown 
about  the  beginning  or  middle  of  the  month,  and  a  late  sowing  at 
the  end.  This  gives  a  succession  of  plants,  varying  in  size,  the 
later  plants  prolonging  the  season  of  flowering. 
Calceolaria  seed  is  very  fine,  requiring  considerable  care  in 
transferring  it  from  the  packet  to  the  seed  pot  or  pan  prepared. 
Wide  seed  pans  are  the  best  receptacles.  They  should  be  perfectly 
clean  and  dry.  Crock  them  carefully  with  three  layers  of  potsherds, 
the  largest  at  the  bottom,  smaller  over  them,  lastly  a  sprinkling  of 
fine,  those  with  the  dry  dust  riddled  out  being  suitable.  On  this 
drainage  place  a  thin  layer  of  damp  moss.  The  pans  are  then 
ready  for  the  soil,  which  should  be  of  a  light,  fine  character,  a 
mixture  of  leaf  soil,  a  little  fresh  fibrous  loam  and  old  potting  soil, 
with  a  free  admixture  of  sand,  answering  well.  Use  the  compost 
in  a  slightly  moist  state,  making  it  firm,  fine,  and  level  on  the 
surface.  Give  a  gentle  watering  through  a  fine  rose,  allowing 
drainage  to  take  place  before  sowing  the  seed.  If  the  pan  is 
allowed  to  drain  half  an  hour  this  will  effect  the  purpose. 
Sprinkle  a  little  fine  sand  on  the  surface  in  order  that  a  regular 
distribution  of  the  seed  may  be  carried  out.  Avoid  sowing  too 
thickly.  Another  fine  sprinkling  over  the  seeds  will  suffice  to  cover 
them.  Place  a  square  of  glass  over  the  pan,  and  darken  it  with 
moss  or  paper.  No  heat  other  than  that  obtained  in  a  closed  frame 
is  necessary  for  insuring  germination.  This  will  take  place  in  about 
ten  days,  no  water  being  applied  to  the  soil  in  the  meantime.  The 
covering  of  glass  with  moss  or  paper  prevents  evaporation. 
As  soon,  however,  as  the  seedlings  appear  the  shading  material 
must  be  removed,  all  the  light  possible  then  being  given  other 
than  hot  sunshine,  from  which  the  seedlings  must  be  screened. 
Afford  air  by  tilting  the  glass,  which  in  a  short  time  may  be 
dispensed  with.  Stand  the  pan  on  a  pot  close  to  the  glass  of  the 
frame.  With  a  free  circulation  of  air,  avoiding  draughts,  the 
seedlings  soon  strengthen.  When  they  have  attained  to  a  size 
showing  the  second  leaf,  prick  them  2  inches  apart  into  pans  or 
boxes  The  compost  for  them  may  be  similar  as  for  sowing  the 
seed.  Return  to  the  frame,  lightly  syringing  the  seedlings  daily 
in  preference  to  heavier  watering  until  they  are  well  estab¬ 
lished. 
When  the  plants  begin  to  touch  each  other  they  will  be  ready 
for  potting  into  small  sized  pots,  using  compost  containing  a  little 
extra  leaf  soil  Shading  from  hot  sunshine  must  be  continued. 
The  next  shift  may  be  into  4J-inch  pots,  adding  to  the  compost  a 
little  decomposed  and  well  pulverised  cow  manure.  Pot  more  firmly 
each  time.  Drain  the  pots  effectively.  Subsequent  shifts  should 
take  place  as  the  pots  become  filled  with  roots . 
From  the  time  the  plants  are  transferred  to  pots,  a  moist  base 
for  these  to  stand  upon  must  be  provided,  but  it  ought  not  to 
be  far  from  the  glass.  The  cooler  Calceolarias  can  be  grown  the 
better,  because  a  cool  temperature  insures  a  moist  atmosphere, 
which  is  the  most  conducive  to  healthy  growth.  A  constant 
supply  of  air  is  essential,  but  it  must  not  be  admitted  in  the  form 
of  sharp  cutting  draughts  at  any  stage.  During  the  cool  nights 
of  early  autumn,  when  the  air  is  calm  and  the  dews  heavy.  Calceo¬ 
larias  are  much  benefited  by  the  night  exposure.  Heavy  rains  are 
not  beneficial,  as  they  saturate  the  soil,  preventing  free  root 
action.  In  the  daytime  place  the  lights  over  the  plants  again. 
An  excellent  base  for  the  plants  to  stand  upon  is  coal  ashes, 
inasmuch  as  it  holds  moisture  and  largely  excludes^ worms.  Water¬ 
ing  must  be  conducted  carefully,  supplying  just  enough  as  the 
plants  require  it  individually.  Ascertain  by  examination  of  the 
surface  soil  or  the  ring  of  the  pots  when  it  is  required.  Then  give 
a  fair  supply,  waiting  until  the  pots  again  ring  when  rapped  sharply 
before  supplying  more.  Lightly  syringing  the  foliage  is  helpful  to 
growth,  and  prevents  green  fly  obtaining  a  foothold.  Use  the 
coldest  water  possible  both  for  watering  and  syringing. 
Should  green  fly  appear,  even  to  a  small  extent,  vaporising 
with  nicotine  or  fumigating  with  tobacco  paper  ought  to  be 
resorted  to  for  destroying  the  pests.  With  good  treatment  on  the 
lines  indicated  during  the  early  stages  and  in  the  autumn  months 
the  foliage  usually  remains  perfectly  clean.  Poor  root  action,  checks 
to  growth  from  dryness  and  overwatering,  together  with  an  arid 
atmosphere,  are  the  chief  causes  of  green  fly  invasion.  Preventing 
the  pests  attacking  the  plants  severely  ought  to  be  the  rule.Xin 
the  winter  time  Calceolarias  are  moved  from  frames  to  greenhouses 
in  order  that  they  may  be  safe  from  hard  frosts.  They  will  endure, 
better  than  any  succulent,  soft-leaved  plants,  a  few  degrees  without 
Fig.  14.— Epilobium  obcordatum. 
injury.  It  is  on  their  removal  to  these  positions  that  aphides  are 
liable  to  appear  and  increase,  especially  if  the  structure  be  dry 
and  not  so  cool  as  it  ought  to  be. 
Frame  treatment  continued  throughout  the  winter  is  better 
than  transferring  the  plants  to  dry  shelves  in  houses.  If  in  frames 
the  plants  need  not  to  be  so  close  to  the  glass  as  in  summer  and 
autumn.  Rather  deep  frames  are  best.  Material  may  be  packed 
round  the  sides  to  ward  off  frost,  and  over  the  top  in  the  severest 
weather.  Dry  leaves  or  strawy  manure  are  useful  as  protection. 
The  two  dullest  months  of  the  winter  may  be  passed  without 
affording  any  shift,  but  in  February  and  March  those  intended  to 
attain  to  a  larger  size  should  receive  more  root  room.  A  substantial 
compost  formed  of  fibrous  loam,  leaf  soil,  and  cow  manure,  with 
sand  and  a  little  charcoal,  ought  to  be  prepared. 
In  potting,  the  compost  employed  is  best  moist,  but  not  wet. 
The  ball  of  roots  ought  also  to  be  thoroughly  moist  throughout. 
Make  the  new  compost  pressed  round  the  old  ball  as  firm  as  the 
latter.  It  is  desirable  to  give  liberal  but  not  large  shifts  ;  8-inch 
pots  are  suitable  for  the  final  shift. 
When  the  pots  in  which  the  plants  are  to  bloom  are  becoming 
full  of  roots  weak  applications  of  liquid  manure  will  give  an 
impetus  to  growth,  and  incite  strong  flower  stems.  Let  the 
