96 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  29,  1897; 
clear  for  the  draught  of  air.  Put  in  the  upper  one  a  few  pieces  of 
charcoal  ignited,  and  when  they  are  thoroughly  alight  tear  up  some 
brown  paper  and  put  in,  and  then  put  on  the  tobacco  or  tobacco  paper, 
which  will  consume  gradually  and  give  out  a  good  smoke.  Another  plan 
I  have  generally  adopted  with  regard  to  small  houses  or  frames,  is  to 
take  some  coarse  brown  paper,  steep  it  in  a  solution  of  saltpetre,  dry  it, 
then  spread  out  the  tobacco  on  pieces  6  inches  or  a  foot  square,  roll  both 
together,  and  tie  with  twine  or  matting.  Then  suspend  by  one  end  and 
light  the  other  ;  let  two  or  three  of  these  be  lighted  according  to  the  size 
of  the  house  or  pit,  and  let  them  smoulder.  If  properly  done,  this 
will  be  found  as  clean  and  effectual  a  method  of  fumigating  as  need 
be. — C. 
ABUTILON  CULTURE. 
These  plants  are  very  showy,  free  growing,  and  easily  cultivated. 
They  are  alike  useful  for  ornament  in  the  greenhouse  and  conservatory, 
for  affording  flowers  for  cutting,  and  for  forming  beds  in  the  outside 
garden.  The  taller  varieties  are  seen  to  great  advantage  trained  to  wires 
under  roof  rafters,  not  having  the  wires  further  from  the  glass  than  a 
foot,  whilst  as  pillar  plants  they  are  effective,  their  drooping  bell-shaped 
flowers  in  either  case  being  seen  to  singular  advantage.  Whether  as 
roof  or  pillar  plants  they  are  best  allowed  to  grow  rather  loosely,  so  that 
the  side  branches  may  drcop,  and  when  they  are  becoming  too 
numerous  they  may  be  thinned,  a  convenient  method  being  to  cut  the 
flowered  sprays  back  to  a  few  joints  from  their  origin,  which  serves  the 
purpose  of  keeping  the  plants  well  home  as  well  as  affording  a  succession 
or  continuance  of  bloom,  the  sprays  loosely  arranged  in  large  vases 
having  a  very  flne  effect.  Crowding,  however,  must  be  avoided,  timely 
thinning  and  regulation  of  growth  being  practised  in  due  course  and 
with  discretion,  avoiding  stiffness  or  formality  as  prejudicial  alike  to 
freedom  of  bloom  and  effect. 
As  roof  or  pillar  plants  Abutilons  are  perhaps  best  planted  out. 
They  succeed,  however,  very  well  in  pots,  which  must  be  proportionate 
in  size  to  the  plant  required.  They  give  much  less  trouble  in  watering 
when  planted  out  than  if  grown  in  pots.  In  the  latter  they  require 
feeding  with  liquid  manure  to  maintain  them  in  good  foliage,  and  even 
then  they  do  not  attain  to  the  freedom  of  growth  and  fulness  of  bloom  of 
those  planted  out.  A  border  of  2  feet  width  and  similar  depth  well 
drained,  as  abundance  of  water  and  food  supplies  is  required  when  they 
are  in  free  growth,  with  a  compost  of  equal  parts  flbrous  loam,  leaf  soil, 
and  peat,  with  about  a  sixth  of  drift  or  crystal  sand  put  in  rather  flrmly, 
so  as  to  induce  a  sturdy  free-flowering  habit,  will  grow  these  plants  to 
perfection.  Continually  pouring  on  water  is  not  watering  but  drown¬ 
ing,  making  the  soil  sodden  and  sour,  to  the  destruction  of  the  soft  roots 
and  small  fibres,  the  plant  becoming  sickly  and  collapsing.  Over-dry¬ 
ness  on  the  other  hand,  if  not  so  pernicious  as  over- watering,  causes  a 
check  to  growth,  a  loss  very  often  of  bloom,  and  always  a  loss  of 
foliage,  more  or  less  detracting  from  the  appearance  of  the  plants.  The 
right  time  to  supply  water  is  when  the  soil  is  becoming  dry,  and  before 
it  is  so  dry  as  to  cause  the  foliage  to  become  limp  or  flag  afford  a  thorough 
supply,  there  being  no  fear  of  over-watering  a  plant  when  it  is  dry. 
There  is  danger,  however,  of  giving  a  check  that  may  bring  down  all  or 
most  of  the  flower  buds  if  the  watering  is  delayed  too  long,  or  water  is 
applied  at  a  much  less  temperature  than  that  in  which  the  plants  are 
growing,  or  if  over-strong  manorial  matter  be  given,  which  destroys  the 
younger,  softer,  and  more  active  roots  or  feeders.  These  are  matters  that 
may  not  often  burden  the  careful  cultivator,  but  they  do  occur  never¬ 
theless,  though  the  cause  of  disaster  is  not  often  attributed  to  errors  of 
culture. 
Planted-out  Abutilons  will  flower  continuously  if  they  have  a 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°  assured  to  them,  the  situation  being  light,  and 
care  being  taken  to  keep  up  a  succession  of  flowering  wood  ;  but  they 
are  all  the  better  for  a  rest  in  winter,  the  soil  then  being  kept  dry,  but 
not  so  dry  as  to  impair  the  vitality  of  the  plants.  If  the  wood  shrivel 
it  is  too  dry,  which  is  not  resting  but  starving  plants  to  death.  It  is 
needless  expecting  such  to  break  as  strongly  and  make  as  vigorous 
growth  as  those  that  have  been  granted  rational  treatment.  In  February 
the  plants  may  be  cut  back,  each  growth  to  a  few  joints  of  the  old  wood, 
and  where  extension  is  required  firm  well-ripened  wood  can  be  trained-in 
to  fill  it,  merely  cutting  away  the  unripe  points.  Old  worn-out  wood 
may  be  displaced  in  a  similar  manner — Le.,  cutting  out  the  old  and 
laying-in  the  young  wood.  Plants  that  become  bare  at  the  base  may  be 
cut  down,  they  breaking  freely  from  the  old  wood.  After  pruning  a 
gentle  sprinkling  over  the  foliage  will  encourage  a  speedy  and  regular 
break,  and  when  fresh  growth  is  made  the  plants,  if  in  pots,  may  be 
repotted,  picking  away  the  soil  at  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  ball,  so  as 
to  reduce  them  about  a  third,  which,  if  they  are  to  be  returned  to  the 
same  size  of  pot,  will  admit  some  fresh  soil  at  the  base  and  sides,  the 
roots  being  cut  close  back. 
Those  planted  out  should  have  the  soil  removed  from  amongst  the 
roots,  not  disturbing  the  fibrous  or  main  roots  at  the  collar,  and  if  in 
compartments  the  soil  may  be  taken  out  at  the  sides,  the  roots  cut  back, 
and  fresh  soil  added,  in  all  cases  making  it  moderately  firm,  for  which 
it  must  be  in  a  medium  state  as  to  moisture.  Avoid  soil  that  is  very  dry 
or  very  wet.  Water  carefully  until  the  plants  have  made  fresh  roots, 
and  indicate  possession  of  the  soil  by  pushing  fresh  growths  freely,  then 
water  thoroughly  as  required,  and  feed  with  liquid  manure  or  artificials, 
applied  in  a  surface  dressing  of  light  lumpy  decompc^ing  material,  such 
as  old  cow  manure,  which  will  attract  the  roots  to  the  surface.  The 
foliage  and  bloom  will  show  the  benefit  in  due  course.  The  plants 
will  come  into  flower  in  a  few  weeks,  and  continue  through  the  summer 
and  autumn,  if  not  greater  part  of  the  winter,  the  house  of  course  being 
kept  as  before  stated  at  a  minimum  temperature  of  45“  to  50°. 
Abutilons  also  form  magnificent  standards.  The  plants  should  be 
trained  up  with  a  single  and  straight  stem  to  the  height  required,  they 
appearing  to  great  advantage  when  on  4  feet  6  inches  to  6  feet  stems  for 
conservatory,  whilst  plants  with  2  feet  stems  are  charming  for  table 
decoration.  Pots  of  8  inches  diameter  will  hold  sufficiently  large  plants 
for  table,  but  for  the  larger  and  taller  plants  12-inch  pots  are  little 
enough.  The  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  somewhat  taller  than  the 
intended  height  of  the  stem,  so  as  to  get  solidified  growth  to  where  the 
heading  is  to  take  place,  and  then  the  heads  are  cut  clean  off,  or  laterals 
or  side  growths  being  rubbod  off  on  the  stem  when  quite  young,  leaving 
the  leaves  at  their  base,  as  they  help  in  a  measure  to  thicken  the  stem  as 
it  advances  in  height,  relying  on  the  uppermost  two  or  three  growths 
for  the  formation  of  the  head.  Stop  those  when  they  have  two  or  three 
leaves,  merely  taking  out  the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  continue  this  as 
fresh  growth  is  made  until  the  plants  have  a  dozen  or  more  shoots, 
when  they  may  be  allowed  to  flower.  This  being  effected  by  midsummer, 
as  it  will  if  one-year  old  plants  are  selected,  they  being  trained  the 
previous  year  to  form  the  stem  desired,  the  plants  will  afford  a  fine 
display  of  bloom,  and  being  seen  on  a  level  with  the  eye  are  very 
pleasing,  and  will  keep  flowering  in  a  suitable  temperature  until 
winter.  It  is  desirable  to  give  them  a  few  weeks’  rest  by  keeping  them 
drier  and  cooler,  and  from  the  middle  of  February  to  early  March 
they  may  be  pruned,  cutting  back  to  well  ripened  wood,  the  weak  wood 
being  cut  away,  and  others  may  be  left  of  such  length  as  will  form 
symmetrical  heads,  two  or  three  joints  of  wood  being  ample  to  leave  on 
plants  that  have  well-furnished  heads,  or  when  a  compact  head  is 
desired.  The  plants  may  be  given  a  little  extra  warmth  to  start  them 
into  growth,  damping  occasionally,  and  when  pushing  fresh  growths 
disrooting  and  repotting 
Stopping  may  be  resorted  to  when  the  growths  are  a  few  inches  long, 
or  if  early  flowers  are  wanted  the  plants  may  be  allowed  to  flower  at 
once  ;  if  some  are  treated  that  way,  whilst  others  are  pinched,  a  succession 
ot  bloom  will  be  secured.  The  pinched  plants,  however,  form  the  finest 
specimens,  shifting  them  into  large  pots  immediately  after  they  push  a 
little  growth  after  the  last  stopping,  and  when  the  roots  have  possession 
of  the  fresh  soil  feeding  with  liquid  manure.  Other  plants  treated 
similarly  in  a  cool  or  ordinary  greenhouse  will  afford  a  fine  display  by 
August,  and  during  the  late  summer  and  autumn  months.  Neat  bamboo 
stakes  to  the  stems  will  be  necessary  for  the  support  of  the  heads. 
The  plants  intended  for  table  decoration  must  be  well  stopped,  and 
must  be  kept  in  comparatively  small  pots  and  firm  soil,  well  enriched 
with  some  fertiliser  to  induce  a  sturdy  well-furnished  floriferous  habit. 
Young  plants  of  the  previous  spring  or  autumn  rooted  stock  are  suitable 
for  this  purpose,  and  being  duly  stopped  will  form  heads  quite  large 
enough  by  August.  They  should  be  grown  in  a  low-roofed  house  or  pit 
where  they  can  be  accorded  plenty  of  light.  When  they  become  old  and 
stunted  they  may  be  discarded  for  young  plants,  but  the  older  plants 
are  more  floriferous  than  young,  and  in  every  way  preferable  for  early 
flowering,  as  young  plants  cannot  be  bad  with  a  sufficiently  furnished 
head  before  summer  is  well  advanced. — A. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
NAPHTHALENE. 
"  The  Patentee "  of  paraffin-naphthalene  emulsion  must  be  con¬ 
gratulated  on  his  commercial  acumen  with  regard  to  that  substance, 
for  nothing  more  or  less  may  be  found  in  his  critique  on  page  73.  This 
being  so,  it  is  only  necessary  to  allude  to  my  having  on  former  occasions 
referred  to  naphthalene  in  the  Journal  of  Horticulture  as,  in  soluble 
form,  a  very  effective  eelwormicide,  fungicide,  germicide,  insecticide, 
and  miticide,  and  also  mentioning  it  as  a  substance  out  of  which  not  one, 
but  several,  proprietary  preparations  might  be  made.  Then  the  chemical 
formula  of  naphthalene  passed  unchallenged,  and  even  the  question  of 
rendering  naphthalene  soluble,  raised  not  so  much  as  the  ghost  of 
“  patent  rights  ”  in  paraffin-naphthalene  emulsion. 
As  to  the  “  no  personal”  concern  of  your  correspondent,  there  does 
not  appear  a  word  until  my  reference  to  a  patent  in  respect .  of  paraffin- 
naphthalene  emulsion  on  page  48,  and  my  definition  of  it  as  simply  petro¬ 
leum  emulsion  naphthalenised— the  free  trade  soluble  petroleum  trans¬ 
formed  into  a  protected  article  by  the  addition  of  one  seventy-sixth  of 
naphthalene.  Then  arises  the  shadow  of  my  "  imperfect  quotations, 
muddled,  and  misrepresented  inslructions,”  to  which  I  must  take  excep¬ 
tions  in  toto,  for  if  there  has  been  any  of  those  things,  the  definition  of 
the  substance  paraffin-naphthalene  emulsion  must  have  been  “incom¬ 
plete.”  Besides,  what  does  “  imperfect  specification  ”  mean  in  the  matter 
of  a  patent  7 
I  disclaim  any  intention  of  infringing  “  patent  rights,”  for  beyond 
rumour  I  did  not  know  of  their  existence  in  paraffin-naphthalene 
emulsion,  and  had  I  been  in  possession  of  the  facts  as  stated  by  “  The 
Patentee  ”  on  page  73,  my  article  on  naphthalene  (page  47)  would 
have  been  modified.  Then  the  occasion  would  not  have  arisen 
for  securing  a  free  advertisement  for  a  special  article  in  which  the 
“  on-lookers,”  not  the  "  bowlers,”  are  mainly  interested  in  having  “  free.” 
As  for  text-books  on  chemistry,  I  have  only  to  say  that  not  one  to 
which  I  have  access  is  even  “  a  little  out  of  date,”  but  all  are  in  exact 
agreement  on  every  essential  point.  Hence,  I  do  not  mind  being  “  com¬ 
pletely  insulated.”  Even  the  naphthalene-potassium  of  “  The 
Patentee”  stands  clearly  as  OjoHjEj  in  chemical  text-books,  but 
apparently  “  Patentee”  lives  not  to  “  enlighten,  stimulate  and  amuse.”— 
G.  Abbey. 
