July  29,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
107 
In  other  plants  Natare  has  resorted  to  an  entirely  different  kind  of 
propagation.  In  these  a  loose  trailing  branch  or  stem,  called  a  stole  or 
«tolon,  is  sent  forth  from  the  plant  at  the  summit  of  the  root,  just  where 
the  leaves  spring  from  the  stem.  This  branch  or  stem  proceeds  from  the 
original  plant  to  some  distance,  and  then  takes  root  downwards  and 
Bends  forth  leaves  upwards,  frequently  continuing  its  growth  beyond  the 
first  attachment  to  the  soil  and  rooting  at  intervals,  forming  a  new 
plant  at  each  rooting.  Plants  that  propagate  themselves  in  this  manner 
are  called  stoloniferous.  The  Strawberry  affords  a  familiar  example. 
Speaking  broadly,  natural  propagation  is  effected  by  the  development 
of  a  bud  which  proceeds  from  some  portion  of  the  plant,  either  root  or 
stem,  as  the  case  may  be — that  is,  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  or 
from  the  stem  proceeding  from  it  at  a  point  jast  above  the  surface. 
Examples  have  been  already  given.  No  matter  what  may  be  the  mode 
of  propagation  that  Nature  selects,  the  offset,  when  ultimately  separated 
from  the  parent  plant,  assumes  a  separate  existence,  and  becomes  an 
independent  plant,  similar  in  every  respect  to  that  from  which  it  sprang. 
Thus  the  suckers  thrown  up  from  the  root  of  a  Rose  or  any  shrub  that 
throws  up  shoots  of  this  kind  from  below  ground,  when  detached  with  a 
portion  of  the  root,  will  speedily  form  new  and  strong  plants. 
The  rhizome  of  the  Primrose  and  Polyanthus  may  be  removed  from 
the  parent  plant,  and  will  soon  send  forth  roots  under  favourable 
circumstances,  if  it  be  not  already  rooted  before  removal  ;  and  when  the 
new  plant  springing  from  the  stole  of  the  Strawberry  is  once  attached 
to  the  soil  by  roots  of  its  own,  the  connecting  link  between  parent  and 
offspring  may  be  cut  away,  rendering  the  latter  dependent  on  itself  for 
obtaining  a  supply  of  nourishment  through  its  own  roots.  Every  plant 
is  provided  by  Nature  with  a  suitable  means  of  reproduction,  whether 
by  seed,  sucker,  stole,  or  rhizome. — C.  W.  M. 
(To  be  continued.) 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
'Watering  and  IVIulcblng  Fruit  Trees. — Fruit  trees  and  bushes 
having  abundance  of  roots  near  the  surface  of  the  soil  are  benefited  at 
this  season  by  a  copious  watering,  followed  by  a  mulching  of  short 
manure.  It  is  not  advisable  to  water  fruitless  trees  too  freely,  providing 
they  are  well  established  and  making  satisfactory  growth.  Weakly 
trees  and  those  recently  planted  will  almost  certainly  need  the  soil 
moistening,  so  that  the  roots  may  have  a  chance  of  extending  and  multi¬ 
plying.  After  this  has  been  done,  immediately  apply  a  malching  in 
order  to  conserve  the  moisture  as  long  as  possible. 
Wall  trees  mostly  require  applications  of  water  frequently  ;  young 
trees  advancing  in  size  and  older  trees  bearing  crops  should  receive 
adequate  supplies  of  clear  water  first,  in  all  circumstances  where  the 
soil  is  very  dry.  If  more  support  is  needed,  either  to  increase  the 
growth  of  wood  or  to  improve  the  size  of  the  fruit,  liquid  manure 
may  be  given,  but  not  to  dry  soil.  Wall  trees  well  established  with 
their  roots  deeply  in  the  soil  do  not  suffer  from  dryness  to  the  same 
extent  as  the  more  surface  rooting  trees.  A  mulching,  however,  to  them 
will  be  beneficial. 
Destroying  Red  Spider  on  Wall  Trees. — Peaches,  Nectarines, 
Apricots,  and  Morello  Cherries  that  produce  their  fruit  on  young  wood 
which  is  reserved  one  season  for  fruiting  the  next  are  frequently  subject 
to  attacks  of  red  spider.  This  pest  infests  the  leaves,  abstracting  from 
them  their  juices,  preventing  the  buds  in  their  axils  receiving  the 
nourishment  and  support  required.  Trees  attacked  in  this  way  are 
evidently  dry  at  the  roots.  Possibly  they  may  be  crowded  with  other 
trees,  which  drain  away  food  and  moisture  from  the  soil.  Insects, 
including  red  spider,  soon  attack  impoverished  trees  The  best  remedy 
is  to  loosen  tbe  surface  soil  and  give  a  liberal  application  of  water  to 
reach  the  lowest  roots.  Then  syringe  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  2  ozs. 
of  softsoap  to  a  gallon  of  water,  mixing  in  a  little  sulphur  formed  first 
into  a  paste  with  water.  Syringe  the  trees  vigorously  with  this,  repeating 
the  application  several  times  ;  also  use  plenty  of  clear  water.  Thin  out 
crowded  growths. 
Strawberries. — Cleaning  Beds  and  Propagating . — As  the  fruit  is 
finished  gathering  from  Strawberries  proceed  to  clear  the  beds  of  weeds 
and  runners.  It  any  plants  are  required  for  forming  new  beds  the  most 
promising  plants  or  plantlets  should  be  retained.  The  latter,  not  having 
rooted  into  the  soil,  may  be  thrown  on  one  side  without  detaching  them 
from  the  parent  plants  while  the  ground  is  being  cleared  of  superfluous 
runners  and  weeds.  Loosen  the  soil  with  a  fork,  adding,  if  necessary,  a 
little  fresh  material  to  mix  with  the  staple.  Secure  the  plantlets  upon 
this  to  form  roots  ;  water  and  prevent  them  being  crowded,  eventually 
lifting  and  planting.  Those  already  rooted  must  have  the  surrounding 
runners  thinned  out,  giving  the  selected  plants  room  to  develop. 
Mulching. — After  the  clearance  of  superfluous  growth  from  between 
the  rows,  should  tbe  soil  be  bare  and  hard  slightly  break  the  surface, 
then  spread  a  layer  of  short  half-decayed  manure.  It  will  tend 
to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  retain  the  most  fibrous  near  the  surface. 
where  they  can  spread  in  the  rich  medium  furnished  by  the  mulching. 
Strong  and  healthy  fruiting  plants  will  be  benefited  by  the  additional 
support  which  this  treatment  affords,  and  it  would  materially  assist  any 
not  making  suflScient  growth. 
Young  and  vigorous  growing  plants,  however,  not  having  arrived  at 
a  fruiting  stage  might  be  induced  to  grow  too  vigorously  with  such  gene¬ 
rous  treatment,  and  it  may  be  advisable  to  app'y  it  to  them  but  sparingly, 
provided  they  were  planted  in  good  well  manured  soil,  but  a  thin  top¬ 
dressing  of  some  light  material  can  be  spread  as  a  summer  mulch  to 
prevent  evaporation  from  the  soil. 
Destroying  Old  Beds. — After  the  third  or  fourth  year  Strawberry 
beds  are  not  so  profitable  as  younger  plantations.  Hence  it  is  desirable 
to  plant  a  fresh  bed  every  year  and  destroy  the  oldest.  The  beds  for 
destruction  should  be  decided  upon  immediately  fruiting  is  over.  The 
plants  may  be  chopped  off  close  to  the  soil,  allowed  to  wither,  and  then 
be  burnt.  The  ground  they  occupied  will  be  greatly  improved  for 
whatever  crop  is  to  follow  by  trenching.  Avoid  planting  Strawberries 
immediately  on  the  same  plot  of  ground  if  possible. 
Preparing  Soil  for  Planting  Strawberries. — Deep  culture  and  liberal 
manuring  previous  to  planting  are  the  foundations  of  success.  Ground 
not  naturally  rich,  deep,  and  fertile  can  be  improved  by  trenching  and 
the  addition  of  manure.  In  trenching  a  hungry  subsoil  must  not  be 
brought  to  the  surface  and  the  good  soil  buried.  Preserving  the  layers 
of  soil  in  their  original  position  is  usually  the  best  plan,  but  the  whole 
ought  to  be  moved  and  the  bottom  well  broken  up.  It  is  best  to  prepare 
some  time  previous  to  planting,  in  winter  or  early  spring.  Some  early 
matured  crop,  such  as  early  Potatoes,  may  then  be  taken,  which  will 
leave  the  ground  in  excellent  condition  for  planting. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Vines.— Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — The  canes  for  starting  in 
November,  to  ripen  Grapes  in  March  or  April,  ought  now  to  have  the 
wood  thoroughly  ripe  and  the  buds  plump.  If  not,  keep  the  house 
rather  warmer  by  day,  80°  to  85°,  closing  early  so  as  to  raise  the  tempe¬ 
rature  to  90°  or  95°,  and  throw  the  house  open  at  night.  The  foliage 
must  be  well  exposed  to  light,  and  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  without 
touching.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure  in  the  case  of  Vines  not 
inclined  to  luxuriance  in  sufficient  quantity  to  prevent  the  foliage 
becoming  limp,  but  do  not  give  it  until  tbe  soil  is  getting  dry. 
Lateral  growls  must  be  kept  in  check,  leaving  no  more  than  are 
absolutely  necessary  to  appropriate  any  excess  of  sap,  and  so  prevent  the 
principal  buds  starting.  When  sufficiently  ripened,  as  they  are  when 
the  wood  becomes  brown  and  hard  and  the  eyes  are  prominent,  they 
should  be  removed  to  a  position  outdoors  in  the  full  sun,  stan  ling  them 
on  boards  or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  fence,  or  building,  securing 
the  canes  to  the  face  of  the  wall,  only  giving  water  to  prevent  the  leaves 
falling  prematurely,  and  having  some  waterproof  material  at  hand  to 
throw  the  water  from  the  pots  in  case  of  heavy  showers  occurring.  In 
this  position  they  will  rest,  even  if  the  leaves  are  not  actually  shed, 
provided  they  are  not  kept  too  moist.  When  the  leaves  turn  yellow 
commence  reducing  the  laterals,  and  when  the  foliage  is  all  down 
cut  them  close  to  the  cane,  but  without  injury  to  the  buds,  and  shorten 
the  Vines  to  the  length  required,  or  from  6  to  8  feet.  Dress  all  the  cuts 
carefully  with  styptic  or  patent  knotting.  The  Vines  should  be  placed 
in  any  cool,  airy,  dry  place  until  required  for  forcing.  Though  dryness 
at  the  roots  is  desirable,  the  soil  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dust 
dry,  and  the  pots  must  be  protected  from  frost  by  some  dry  material 
placed  round  and  over  them.  It  will  not,  of  course,  be  necessary  if  frost 
has  not  access  to  the  house. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Vines.  —  A  dry  atmosphere  is  now 
necessary,  not  so  much  to  ripen  the  wood  as  to  induce  rest.  All  laterals 
must  be  kept  stopped  and  the  house  cool,  with  moderate  dryness  at  the 
roots.  The  inside  border  may  require  water,  for  it  is  essential  that  the 
roots  be  kept  healthy,  and  the  soil  not  allowed  to  crack,  but  if  the 
border  has  been  mulched  watering  may  not  be  necessary.  A  moderate 
extension  of  the  laterals  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  principal  foliage 
in  health.  Where  the  Vines  are  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  prepara¬ 
tions  should  be  made  for  lifting,  getting  fresh  loam  and  clean  drainage, 
so  that  the  work  can  be  quickly  done  when  begun.  One  part  of  the 
border  only  need  be  operated  upon  at  once,  the  inside  one  year  and  the 
outside  the  next.  This  prevents  loss  of  crop.  The  roots  should  be  lifted 
and  laid  in  fresh  soil  nearer  the  surface  whilst  there  is  foliage  on  the 
Vines;  therefore  work  of  this  nature  ought  not  to  be  delayed  beyond 
the  early  part  of  September  in  the  case  of  Vines  that  ought  to  be  started 
early  in  December.  The  Vines  will  need  pruning  by  the  middle  of 
September  or,  when  lifted,  a  little  later. 
Houses  Reguired  for  Early  Forcing. — Vines  that  have  not  been 
forced  early  hitherto,  and  are  required  for  that  purpose,  will,  as  soon  as 
the  crops  are  off,  need  to  be  thoroughly  syringed  to  cleanse  them  from 
pests,  applying  an  insecticide  if  necessary,  and  if  there  is  any  doubt 
about  the  ripeness  of  tbe  wood  or  the  plumpness  of  the  buds  it  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  the  house  rather  close  by  day,  but  with  sufficient 
ventilation  to  cause  evaporation  and  allow  the  moisture  to  escape.  Give 
no  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp.  If  the 
weather  prove  wet  and  cold  employ  fire  heat  in  the  daytime  to  maintain 
a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°  with  moderate  ventilation,  and  turn  the  heat 
off  at  night  to  allow  the  pipes  to  cool,  increasing  the  ventilation  so  as  to 
induce  a  thorough  draught,  and  this  will  soon  cause  the  wood  to  harden 
and  the  buds  to  plump,  insuring  rest,  which  for  Vines  to  be  started  in 
December  should  be  complete  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  September. 
When  the  wood  is  ripe  ventilate  fully  day  and  night. 
