108 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
July  29.  1897. 
Vines  Cleared  of  Grapes, — Through  crops  hanging  after  being  ripe 
the  Vines  often  become  infested  with  red  spider,  and  by  growing  plants 
in  the  house  they  are  sometimes  attacked  by  scale  and  mealy  bup,  the 
dry  atmosphere  encouraging  thrips.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  Vines, 
fumigate  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  for  the  thrips,  and  repeat 
in  a  week  or  ten  days  ;  syringe  forcibly  two  or  three  times  to  eject  red 
spider.  Mealy  bug  and  scale  may  be  eradicated  by  syringing  with  the 
following  solution : — Softsoap,  lb,  ;  water,  J  gallon.  Dissolve  by 
boiling,  and  while  hot  add  1  gill  (J  pint)  petroleum,  stirring  briskly  till 
emulsified ;  then  dilute  6  gallons  with  hot  water,  and  when  cooled  to 
100°  apply  with  a  syringe,  wetting  every  part  of  the  Vines.  Repeat  in 
the  course  of  four  days  or  a  week,  and  again  at  a  similar  interval.  Have 
the  laterals  fairly  in  hand,  not  closely  pinched,  unless  the  Vines  are  very 
vigorous  and  not  ripening  the  wood  kindly,  when  keeping  the  house 
rather  dry  at  night,  with  all  the  ventilation  possible,  and  somewhat 
close  and  warm  by  day.  will  promote  the  ripening  of  the  wood  and  buds. 
In  stopping  vigorous  Vines  regard  must  be  had  to  the  principal  leaves 
and  buds,  for  when  all  the  growth  is  removed  as  made  and  the  leaves 
injured  it  may  cause  the  pruning  buds  to  start,  which  must  be  avoided 
by  allowing  a  little  lateral  growth  and  keeping  the  soil  dry  at  their  roots 
to  the  extent  of  causing  the  foliage  to  become  limp;  Weakly  Vines  may 
be  fed  with  liquid  manure  and  the  laterals  allowed  to  extend,  but  what¬ 
ever  extension  is  permitted  the  extraneous  foliage  must  not  in  any  way 
interfere  with  the  free  access  of  air  and  light  to  the  principal  leaves, 
which  must  be  kept  healthy,  and  thus  appropriate  some  of  the  food  and 
store  it  in  the.  buds  and  adjacent  wood.  Free  ventilation  will  be  neces¬ 
sary  day  and  night. 
Grapes  Ripening,— V^h.i\6t  ripening  Grapes  swell  considerably,  there¬ 
fore  do  not  allow  any  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the  border.  Give  if 
needed  a  good  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  in  the  early  part 
fif  the  day,  so  that  superfiuous  moisture  may  be  dissipated  before  night. 
Heavily  cropped  Vines  require  time  and  copious  supplies  of  liquid 
manure,  which  if  it  does  not  help  the  current  crop,  will  prevent  the 
exhaustion  of  the  Vines.  A  good  rest  at  night  in  a  temperature  of 
60°  to  65°  with  air  is  a  great  aid  to  Vines  taxed  to  the  utmost  by  weight 
of  Grapes.  A  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  also  is  essential  to  the 
health  of  the  Vines,  sprinkling  the  paths  and  borders  occasionally,  and 
if  possible  allow  the  laterals  to  extend,  but  full  or  overcropped  Vines 
rarely  can  cater  for  more  than  the  principal  leaves  and  Grapes.  Admit 
air  constantly,  enough  with  a  gentle  heat  in  the  pipes  to  insure  a  circu¬ 
lation,  and  maintain  a  temperature  by  day  of  70°  to  75^  keeping  through 
the  day  at  80°  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun  and  full  ventilation. 
Melons. — Late  Fruit. — A  sowing  should  be  made  to  afford  very 
late  Melons.  The  plants  will  be  fit  to  plant  out  in  about  a  month,  they 
will  set  fruit  in  September,  and  that  will  be  ripe  in  November,  A  light 
airy  structure,  well  heated,  is  essential  with  high  culture  for  this  crop. 
Bottom  heat  is  necessary,  and  is  best  afforded  by  hot-water  pipes,  but 
if  had  from  fermenting  materials  they  must  be  thrown  into  a  heap, 
watered,  and  turned,  so  as  to  insure  the  needful  fermentation,  and 
escape  of  rank  steam. 
Early  Autumn  Fruit. — Good  looking  fruit  is  always  esteemed,  if 
only  from  a  decorative  point  of  view,  and  when  the  quality  is  of  a  high 
order  the  advantage  is  duly  appreciated.  To  have  fruit  in  October  the 
plants  must  be  planted  out  at  once,  giving  them  about  a  barrowload 
each  of  soil  made  into  a  flattened  cone  or  ridge  about  10  to  12  inches 
deep  in  the  centre.  Rather  strong  loam,  with  a  fifth  of  sweetened  horse 
droppings,  and  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  form  a  suitable  compost. 
Make  this  quite  firm,  aud  have  it  in  a  moist  state  before  planting. 
Turn  the  plants  out  carefully,  watering  them  overnight,  so  that  the 
roots  may  come  freely  from  the  sides  of  the  pots,  and  make  the  soil  firm 
about  the  ball.  Keep  the  stem  slightly  raised,  and  water  to  settle  the 
soil  about  the  roots.  The  plants  must  be  encouraged  to  make  a  free 
growth  by  syringing  at  closing,  and  damping  the  paths  ard  walla  in  the 
morning  and  evening  of  hot  days.  Ventilate  between  70°  and  75°,  and 
keep  the  temperature  through  the  day  at  those  degrees  by  artificial 
means,  85°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  close  so  as  to  raise  to  95°  or  100°. 
Through  the  night  the  temperature  may  fall  to  65°. 
Fruit  Swelling . — The  ultimate  result  must  be  kept  in  view  from  the 
start,  as  sturdy  plants  only  can  produce  fine  fruit,  and  this  may  be 
spoiled  by  overcropping  the  plants.  When  the  fruit  is  fairly  swelling 
the  crop  should  be  reduced  to  two  on  a  weakly,  three  on  a  moderately 
vigorous,  four  on  a  strong,  and  six  on  a  large  plant.  Overcropping  is 
very  prejudicial  to  the  plant’s  health,  and  unless  the  foliage  is  kept  in 
good  condition  to  the  finish  high  quality,  which  mainly  depends  on 
solidity  through  the  high  elaboration  of  the  juices,  cannot  be  expected  ; 
therefore  keep  the  foliage  fairly  thin,  all  having  full  exposure  to  light. 
Earth  the  roots,  giving  copious  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  and 
damp  the  paths  with  liquid  manure  twice  a  week,  but  it  is  best  to  give 
it  often  and  weak.  The  drainage  of  stables,  not  containing  washings, 
should  be  diluted  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water. 
Fruit  Ripening. — The  atmosphere  should  be  kept  dry,  and  a  top 
heat  maintained  of  70°  to  75°  by  artificial  means,  admitting  a  little  air 
constantly,  a  circulation  of  rather  dry  warm  air  greatly  improving  the 
quality  and  finish  when  the  fruit  is  ripening.  Water  should  be  withheld 
from  the  house  unless  there  is  fruit  advanced  in  swelling,  when  an 
occasional  damping  will  be  necessary  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames. — The  latest  plants  will  be  setting  their 
fruit,  it  being  important  that  the  fruit  be  set  at  the  close  of  July  or  early 
in  August  to  allow  time  for  its  swelling  and  ripening.  Give  a  good 
watering,  if  necessary,  before  the  flowers  open,  and  line  the  sides  of  the 
bed  and  frame  with  hot  dung,  or  the  mowings  of  lawns,  and  give  a  little 
ventilation  constantly  at  the  top  of  tne  lights  until  the  fruit  is  set  and 
commences  swelling.  This  prevents  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the 
blossoms  and  insures  a  good  set.  Fertilise  the  flowers  daily,  and  when 
sufllcient  are  set,  and  the  fruit  swelling  of  about  equal  size,  remove  all 
flowers,  and  keep  the  growths  thin  and  well  stopped,  maintaining  a 
warm  moist  atmosphere,  but  not  stagnant,  by  early  closing  with  sun 
heat.  Sprinkle  the  foliage  on  fine  afternoons,  and  afford  water  in  bright 
weather  about  twice  a  week. 
Cucumbers. — Where  it  is  desired  to  have  fruit  in  the  autumn  and 
onward  through  the  winter,  seeds  may  be  sown  early  in  August,  and  the 
plants  being  ready  for  planting  early  in  September,  they  will,  in  a  light, 
well-heated  structure,  with  a  good  bottom  heat,  give  fruit  through  the 
autumn  months,  and,  not  then  being  overcropped,  continue  in  bearing 
during  the  winter,  a  succession  of  bearing  wood  being  maintained  by 
cutting  out  exhausted  and  training  in  young  for  the  purpose.  The  soil 
for  growing  them  where  eelworm  has  been  troublesome  should  be  dis¬ 
infected,  there  not  being  anything  cheaper  or  better  than  soaking 
with  boiling  water.  This  acts  admirably,  so  also  does  mixing  with 
the  soil  about  5  per  cent,  of  best  chalk  lime,  using  it  when  freshly 
slaked,  and  mixing  with  the  soil  as  evenly  as  possible.  Allowed  to  lie  a 
month  to  six  weeks,  it  renders  the  turf  mellow  and  in  excellent  condition 
for  use. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Bedding  Antirrhinums. — The  white  bedding  variety  forms  a  very 
attractive  bed,  the  flowering  period  being  fully  equal  to  that  of  the 
majority  of  other  plants  used.  Several  newer  forms  suitable  for 
bedding  have  also  been  introduced.  In  order  to  have  strong  plants 
ready  for  planting  early  next  season,  and  which  only  can  be  depended 
upon  for  a  good  effect,  propagating  should  commence  now.  Short 
flowerless  shoots,  slipped  off  from  old  plants,  will  root  readily  in  a 
cold  frame  or  hand-lights  at  the  foot  of  a  north  wall  or  other  cool  and 
not  too  dark  position.  Dibble  three  or  four  of  the  cuttings  round  the 
sides  of  3-inch  pots  filled  with  gritty  loamy  soil,  give  a  gentle  watering, 
and  keep  close  and  shaded  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  day  till  they 
are  rooted.  Some  could  be  wintered  in  pots,  and  the  rest  planted  in 
sheltered  nursery  beds. 
Antirrhinums  from  Seed. — The  white  bedding  and  other  named 
Antirrhinums  come  quite  true  from  seed,  and  this  is  the  readiest  means 
of  raising  a  large  number  of  plants.  Now  is  a  better  time  for  sowing 
than  early  next  year,  and  this  season’s  seed  will  germinate  more  strongly 
than  older  seed.  Sow  the  seed  thin/y  on  the  surface  of  previously 
moistened  pans  of  light  sandy  soil  and  very  lightly  cover  with  fine  soil. 
Cover  with  a  square  of  glass  and  either  moss  or  paper,  and  place  in  a 
cool  frame  or  hand-light  at  the  foot  of  a  north  wall  or  fence.  When 
the  seedlings  are  large  enough  prick  out  in  boxes  of  light  soil.  Being 
fairly  hardy,  some  may  be  planted  out  in  nursery  beds  and  the  rest  be 
wintered  in  a  cold  frame. 
Pentstemons. — These  again  are  seldom  very  effective  the  same 
season  they  are  propagated,  but  plants  raised  now  from  either  cuttings 
or  seed  would  do  remarkably  well  next  summer.  Both  cuttings  and  seeds 
should  be  treated  exactly  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Antirrhinums.  Where 
hardier  bedding  plants  are  preferred  to  the  more  tender  kinds,  Pent¬ 
stemons  ought  certainly  to  be  given  a  place.  Strong  old  plants  are  most 
suited  to  mixed  borders,  but  late  summer  or  autumn  raised  plants  placed 
out  tarly  into  large  well  prepared  beds  and  lightly  staked  up  would 
prove  quite  a  feature  in  the  display.  A  mixture  of  Pentstemons  and 
Nicotiana  affinis  is  both  bold  and  pleasing.  As  many  as  are  wanted 
should  be  wintered  in  cold  frames  or  pits,  as  a  very  severe  winter  is 
sometimes  fatal  to  most  of  the  exposed  plants. 
Tuberous  Begonias. — If  short  fiowerless  side  shoots  of  these  are 
made  into  cuttings,  dibbled  rather  thickly  in  pans  or  boxes  of  fine 
sandy  soil,  set  in  the  full  sunshine  and  sheltered  from  heavy  rains,  the 
majority  will  strike  root  and  form  tiny  tubers  before  the  tops  die  down. 
Left  where  they  are,  and  stored  in  a  dry  cellar  or  shed  where  severe 
frosts  cannot  reach  them,  these  small  tubers  will  winter  well  and  be 
very  handy  for  bedding  next  season.  Now  is  also  a  good  time  to  sow 
seed  with  a  view  to  having  abundance  of  small  tubers  to  make  an 
early  start  with  next  season.  Quite  new  seed  will  germinate  very 
quickly  and  strongly,  and  this  should  be  preferred,  though  last  season’s 
seed  will  not  fail  if  sound  at  the  time  of  sowing.  Prepare  several  pans 
or  boxes,  by  careful  draining  and  filling  up  with  fine  light  sandy  soil. 
Make  the  surface  very  level  and  firm,  but  do  not  sand  over,  give  a  gentle 
watering,  and  about  one  hour  later  sow  the  seed  thinly,  quite  on  the 
surface,  no  covering  over  being  attempted.  Place  in  a  cold  frame  on 
inverted  pans  or  pots  with  a  view  to  excluding  worms,  cover  with 
squares  of  glass,  and  shade  heavily.  The  soil  must  be  kept  uniformly 
moist,  not  by  waterings,  but  rather  by  partial  immersion  in  a  tub  or 
tank  of  water,  the  one  thing  to  avoid  being  the  disturbance  of  the 
germinating  seed.  The  seedlings  will  not  make  much  growth,  but  if 
undisturbed  will  form  tubers  near  the  size  of  Radish  seed.  Such,  if 
kept  plump  till  next  March,  will  be  available  for  growing  into  strong 
plants  by  the  time  they  are  wanted  for  the  flower  beds. 
Cbrysanthemums. — If  there  are  any  bad  failures  in  the  flower 
garden,  and  the  late  hot  and  dry  weather  proved  very  trying  in  many 
cases,  some  of  these  might  be  made  good  by  either  planting  out  or 
transplanting  Madame  Desgrange  and  Mrs.  Hawkins.  Both  of  these 
varieties  are  very  sturdy  and  floriferous  this  season,  and  perhaps 
would  do  better  service  in  the  flower  beds  than  under  glass.  If  planted 
in  a  sloping  direction,  the  tops  well  spread  out,  and  lightly  pegged  or 
