Aagdst  ft,  ISftf. 
JOVmAL  OP  HORTIGULWRE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
115 
or  is  the  birthright  to  be  bartered  for  a  few  petty  frivolities  with  a 
dash  of  desultory  nufiaished  thioga  thrown  in,  resulting,  in  some 
cases,  io  a  life’s  regret,  or  in  others — the  worst  cases — into  the 
slavery  of  a  distorted  vision,  which  sees  the  whole  world  going 
wrong  with  some  vague  notion  of  setting  it  right  by  the  impotent 
lever  of  a  blind  and  biassed  mind  ? 
In  conclusion,  my  sentiments,  drawn  from  experience  of  life, 
are  clearly  expressed  by  one  who  said,  “  The  longer  I  live  the  more 
certain  I  am  that  the  great  difference  between  men,  between  the 
feeble  and  the  powerful,  the  great  aud  the  insignificant,  is  energy — 
invincible  determination — a  purpose  once  fixed,  and  then  death  or 
victory.”  Mark  the  sequel  extracted  from  the  above  by  another 
teacher,  “  That  quality  (‘  energy — invincible  determination  ’)  will 
do  anything  that  can  be  done  in  this  world,  and  no  talents,  no 
circumstances  will  make  a  two-legged  creature  a  man  without  it.” 
Success  is  heartily  wished  to  all  earnest  aspirants  by — An  Old 
Boy. 
BURNT  EARTH. 
Do  gardeners,  as  a  body,  fully  appreciate  the  value  of  a  large 
heap  of  "  burnbake  ?  ”  1  think  not.  I  admit  that  this  material 
is  most  efficacious  when  applied  to  soils  of  a  tenacious  clayey 
nature,  but  it  is  also  of  good  service  in  improving  soils  of  a  lighter 
nature.  It  is  not  of  ballast  or  hard  burned  soil  that  I  am  thinking ; 
but  even  this,  if  not  too  coarse,  may  be  employed  to  good  purpose 
on  strong  clayey  soil,  though  it  is  poor  stuff  for  fruit  trees  and 
vegetables  when  used  in  excess.  For  genuine  burnbake  fruit  tree 
roots,  especially  those  of  the  Tine,  have  a  great  partiality,  while  the 
borders  in  which  it  has  been  used  are  the  most  abundantly  tenanted 
with  root  fibres  and  the  last  to  become  soured. 
It  once  fell  to  my  lot  to  have  to  move  a  large  vinery  a  distance 
of  three  miles,  and  in  order  to  have  “something  to  show  ”  the  same 
season  all  the  Yines  were  transplanted.  About  one-half  had  appa¬ 
rently  been  treated  to  a  heavy  surfacing  of  burnbake,  and  these 
moved  remarkably  well,  actually  ripening  a  full  crop  of  small 
bunches  within  four  months  of  removal.  The  remainder  had  long 
naked  roots  with  few  or  no  fibres,  and  these,  although  they  grew 
fairly  well,  were  not  equal  to  maturing  any  bunches.  Much  the 
same  results  have  been  observed  when  dealing  with  Apricot,  Peach, 
Fear,  and  other  fruit  trees.  One  of  the  most  profitable  crops  of 
Strawberries  I  ever  grew  was  produced  by  strong  plants  lifted, 
after  the  fruit  was  set,  from  an  open  border  in  which  burnbake  had 
been  mixed.  It  is  practically  the  same  when  charred  refuse  is 
mixed  with  soil  in  which  a  variety  of  hardy  plants  are  temporarily 
bedded  out. 
Private  gardeners  are  so  accustomed  to  use  sharp  sand  in 
potting  composts  that  the  fact  of  charred  refuse  answering  equally 
well,  if  not  better,  is  lost  sight  of.  Especially  is  it  to  be  commended 
when  the  loam  used  is  deficient  in  root  fibres.  Given  the  choice 
of  either  light,  spongy  turves  and  silver  sand,  or  a  fairly  free- 
working  clayey  loam  from  a  cultivated  field,  I  should  probably 
“plump”  for  the  latter.  Quite  recently  I  was  offered  50  loads 
of  turf  from  a  black  soil  almost  for  the  cost  of  hauling,  but 
declined  it. 
The  compost  for  about  3000  Chrysanthemums  I  grow  consists 
of  clayey  loam  carted  from  an  open  field,  leaf  soil,  bonemeal,  horse- 
droppings,  and  burnbake,  and  if  they  succeed  as  well  as  they  did 
last  year  there  will  be  no  regret  that  the  loam  had  no  fibre  in  it, 
or  that  no  sand  whatever  was  added.  Pelargoniums,  Carnations, 
Bouvardias,  Arums,  Cyclamens,  Primulas,  Ferns,  and  a  variety  of 
other  plants,  all  have  burnbake  mixed  freely  with  the  soil,  and 
those  who  like  to  see  Cucumher  roots  in  a  network  should  try  the 
effects  of  charred  soil  and  ashes.  Some  fifteen  or  more  years  ago 
Dipladenias  were  shown  in  greater  perfection  than  now,  and  I 
sh^l  not  forget  a  house  the  whole  roof  of  which  was  draped  with 
choice  Dipladenias  at  their  best.  Among  other  hints  the  successful 
cultivator  gave  me  was  one  upon  the  employment  of  charred  soil  in 
the  potting  compost. 
It  is  at  this  time  of  the  year  when  rubbish  accumulates  the  most 
rapidly  in  gardens,  that  a  slow  fire  ought  to  be  started  with  a  view 
to  converting  much  of  this  unsightly  accumulation  into  valuable 
matter.  Everything  that  will  burn  either  slowly  or  rapidly  should 
be  roughly  separated  from  the  rest  preparatory  to  burning.  Start 
a  fire  with  old  Pea  stakes  or  coarse  dry  wood  of  any  description, 
on  this  disposing  first  the  drier  portion  of  the  rubbish,  following 
with  heavier  greener  materials,  banking  over  with  the  half-rotten 
weeds  and  soil.  A  slow  fire  is  essential  to  the  successful  produc¬ 
tion  of  a  valuable  residue,  no  fiame  being  allowed  to  break  through. 
Instead  of  leaving  the  heap  of  charred  wood,  soil,  and  ashes  exposed 
to  all  weathers,  as  is  often  done,  I  advise  that  it  be  stored  in  the 
dry,  as  when  much  exposed  to  rains  some  of  its  manurial  virtues 
are  washed  away. — W.  Iggulden. 
VEGETABLES  FOR  HOME  AND  EXBIBITION. 
Root  Crops — Onions. 
No  vegetable  holds  out  greater  possibilities  to  the  grower  for 
exhibition  than  the  Onion,  and,  as  is  well  known,  bulbs  varying  in 
weight  from  1  to  3  lbs.  are  staged  by  eminent  growers  at  the  most 
important  shows.  For  the  excellence  of  the  exhibition  Onion  of 
to-day  first  thanks  are  due  to  the  enterprising  firms  of  seedsmen 
who  have  looked  ahead,  and  seeing  there  was  capital  in  the  bulbs 
have  centred  much  of  their  attention  on  it,  with  the  result  that 
many  excellent  strains  have  been  produced.  Pedigree  horses  and 
cattle  have  been  known  for  a  long  period,  but  pedigree  Onions 
sounds  somewhat  paradoxical,  seeing  they  are  of  quite  recent  intro¬ 
duction  ;  yet  such  is  the  name  given  to  the  best  exhibition  strains 
which  are  sold  in  sealed  packets  direct  from  the  hands  of  the 
specialists,  to  whom  they  owe  their  origin. 
Credit  also  is  due  to  growers — gardeners  who  make  vegetables 
their  strong  forte.  They  have  not  been  slow  to  grasp  the  fact 
that  to  produce  Onions  of  exhibition  size  and  quality  a  good  strain 
is  indispensable,  and  having  obtained  the  approved  varieties  have 
brought  energy  and  experience  to  bear  on  their  cultivation,  the 
result  being  seen  in  the  enormous  bulbs  which  the  average  Onion 
grower  looks  at  and  marvels.  There  is  no  trade  secret  about 
growing  large  Onions.  Anyone  can  do  it  who  has  the  inclination, 
with  cultural  aptitude  and  facilities.  Special  treatment  is  of  course 
necessary,  and  if  this  is  given  in  conjunction  with  that  indispen¬ 
sable  item  to  true  success  in  all  gardening  operations — close 
attention  to  details — then  Onions  may  be  grown  in  most  gardens 
worthy  to  occupy  a  place  on  the  exhibition  table,  and  if  not  first 
prizewinners  they  may  still  be  a  credit  to  the  cultivator. 
Those  whose  aspirations  lead  them  to  the  cultivation  of  exhibi¬ 
tion  Onions  should  remember  three  rules  necessary  to  success.  In 
the  first  place,  a  suitable  soil,  as  all  are  not  conducive  to  the 
welfare  of  the  bulbs  ;  secondly,  as  I  have  already  intimated,  seeds 
from  the  best  stocks  that  can  be  obtained  ;  and  thirdly,  the  plants 
must  be  well  cultivated,  and  receive  constant  attention  at  the  hands 
of  the  grower  from  the  time  the  tiny  bulblets  are  formed  till  they 
have  reached  the  maximum  size  and  are  removed  from  the  ground. 
A  soil  in  which  clay  predominates  is  not  good  for  the  plants,  yet 
they  must  have  something  substantial  in  the  way  of  compost. 
The  benefits  of  deep  cultivation  should  also  be  observed,  and  the 
intending  exhibitor  must  select  bis  ground  in  the  autumn,  trench 
it  to  the  depth  of  2  feet,  and  place  in  the  bottom  a  good  dressing 
of  farmyard  manure.  Wood  ashes,  soot,  and  lime  may  also  be 
incorporated  with  advantage.  Some  growers  ridge  up  the  soil 
only,  thus  laying  it  open  to  the  influence  of  frost.  For  the 
ordinary  crop  this  is  often  all  that  is  necessary  if  the  ground  is  in 
good  heart,  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  if  exceptional  bulbs 
are  required  the  soil  must  be  rich  in  character  and  friable  in  tilth. 
The  brevity  of  our  summers  prohibits  the  full  development 
of  the  bulbs  if  the  seeds  are  sown  out  of  doors  in  the  ordinary  way, 
therefore  artificial  methods  are  adopted  by  the  enlistment  of  the 
services  of  a  cool  house  or  vinery  in  which  the  canes  are  resting. 
Propagating  boxes  form  good  receptacles  for  the  seeds,  which  may 
be  sown  in  ordinary  potting  soil  in  January  or  February.  When 
the  plants  have  grown  to  the  height  of  1  or  2  inches  they 
are  pricked  about  3  inches  apart  into  other  boxe.°,  and  placed 
close  to  the  glass  in  a  house  in  which,  a  genial  temperature 
can  be  maintained.  Care  is  taken  that  they  do  not  become 
drawn,  and  hence  weakly.  When  growing  sturdily,  and  about 
6  inches  high,  they  are  gradually  hardened  and  given  the  accom¬ 
modation  of  a  cold  frame  till  about  the  third  week  in  April,  when, 
if  the  weather  is  favourable,  they  are  transplanted  in  the  drills, 
allowing  a  space  of  about  a  foot  from  plant  to  plant.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  arrange  the  bed  so  that  there  are  two  rows  of  Onions,  and 
then  a  path,  by  which  means  all  cultural  operations  may  be 
performed  without  treading  among  the  bulbs.  It  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  during  the  preparatory  period  the  plants  are  subject 
to  attacks  of  mildew,  so  that  any  neglect  in  ventilating  and 
watering  materially  affects  the  after  welfare  of  the  bulbs. 
Constant  attention  with  abundance  of  stimulative  food  are 
the  chief  requisites  through  the  summer.  The  surface  soil  should 
be  frequently  stirred  during  dry  weather.  A  light  dressing  of 
soot  and  an  approved  chemical  manure  may  be  sown  broadcast 
every  three  weeks  or  so,  preferably  in  showery  weather,  and  if 
dry  then  it  must  be  washed  in.  Liquid  manure  from  the  farm¬ 
yard  may  be  used  with  advantage,  and  the  moisture  is  conserved 
in  dry  weather  by  a  mulching  of  weil-decajei  manure.  In  periods 
of  drought  a  bght  top-dressing  of  salt  is  good.  The  plants  must 
be  allowed  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun,  as  the  idea  is  to  build  up 
the  hulbs  thoroughly  sound  and  hard,  hence  the  necessity  of  soil 
containing  an  average  amount  of  mineral  matter.  Do  not  remove 
the  bulbs  till  the  foliage  ripens  and  dies,  as  this  is  an  indication 
