iuguRt  5,  189'7. 
JOUMAI  dP  tiORTlOULTrmP  and  cottage  gardener 
13^ 
October,  and  a  good  Bvccessioa  may  resnlt  if  other  beds  are  made  and 
spawned  a  month  later.  Neither  peat  moss  manure,  short  maanre,  nor 
nearly  all  horse  droppings  are  suitable.  All  the  short  stained  straw, 
to  the  extent  of  fally  one-third  of  the  bulk,  should  be  saved  with  the 
droppings  from  corn  and  hay-fed  horses,  and  all  be  thrown  into  a  heap 
to  ferment.  At  this  time  of  year  manure  heats  quickly  and  fiercely, 
and  unless  the  heaps  are  turned  inside  out  every  three  or  four  days  the 
centre  becomes  dry  and  mouldy — the  result  of  overheating — and  worth¬ 
less  accordingly.  The  manure  ought  to  be  kept  just  moist  by  gentle 
waterings  when  turned,  and  in  the  course  of  a  fortnight  it  should  be 
sufficiently  sweetened  and  freed  of  rank  heat  to  admit  of  a  ridge-shaped 
bed  being  safely  formed  of  it.  If  these  open-air  beds  become  violently 
hot  after  they  are  made,  as  they  are  liable  to  do  if  the  manure  has  not 
been  well  prepared,  they  are  unfit  to  produce  Mushrooms,  and  not  much 
need  be  expected  of  them  if  the  other  extreme  is  reached  and  no  heat  be 
generated. 
Forming  the  Beds. — Ridge-shaped  beds  should  be  formed  on  a  dry 
hard  base  where  they  will  not  be  unduly  exposed  to  cold  winds,  and 
where,  also,  rats  and  mice  can  be  excluded  or  kept  under.  They  may 
be  of  any  length,  and  should,  when  completed,  be  about  2^  feet  to  3  feet 
wide,  and  3  feet  high  in  the  centre,  which  ought  to  be  narrowed  to 
a  width  of  9  inches.  Thin  layers  of  well-separated  manure  should 
be  put  together  and  made  solid  by  beating  and  trampling,  finishing 
off  by  combing  down  the  sides  and  ends  so  as  to  give  the  bed  the 
appearance  of  having  been  thatched^  The  manure  at  the  time  ought  to 
be  moist  enough  for  it  to  bind  together,  but  must  not  be  so  wet  that  the 
moisture  can  be  squeezed  out  of  it. 
Spawning  and  Soiling. — When  the  heat  in  the  beds  has  declined 
sufficiently  for  the  inserted  ends  of  trial  stakes  kept  plunged  in  the 
manure  to  be  borne  comfortably  in  the  palm  of  the  hand  on  testing,  the 
time  has  arrived  for  spawning.  Give  the  preference  to  new  spawn, 
break  each  brick  into  eight  pieces,  and  insert  these  fiatly  slightly  below 
the  level  of  the  surface  of  the  bed,  and  about  8  inches  apart  each  way. 
Avoid  forming  deep  holes  for  the  lumps  of  spawn,  and  take  good  care 
to  pack  it  tightly  in  the  manure.  The  mycelium  should  commence 
spreading  from  the  spawn  in  three  or  four  days,  when  the  beds  may  be 
soiled  over,  but  previous  to  that  they  should  be  protected  from  rains  and 
cold  winds.  Case  over  with  the  best  fresh  loam  procurable  to  a  thick¬ 
ness  of  fully  inch  after  it  has  been  well  beaten  and  smoothed  over 
with  the  back  of  a  spade.  There  must  be  no  watering  and  plastering 
over  of  the  soil,  as  this  is  invariably  followed  by  shrinking,  cracking, 
and  injury  to  the  bed. 
Casing  over  the  bed  is  sometimes  followed  by  a  sudden  and  dangerous 
rise  in  the  temperature,  the  same  thing  happening  with  a  change  from 
comparatively  cool  to  moist  warm  weather.  It  is  necessary,  therefore, 
to  examine  the  trial  sticks  frequently,  and  in  order  to  obviate  the 
dangers  attending  a  great  increase  in  heat  pierce  holes  through  the 
centre  of  the  ridge  with  a  pointed  iron  rod,  this  letting  out  the  confined 
vapour.  As  soon  as  it  is  seen  there  is  a  tendency  to  an  undue  lowering 
of  temperature  rather  than  an  injurious  rise,  cover  the  bed  heavily 
with  the  longer  straw  litter  saved  when  the  droppings  were  separated 
from  it. 
Winter  Tomatoes. — ^Where  a  supply  of  Tomatoes  must  be  kept  up 
nearly  or  quite  all  the  year  round  a  number  of  plants  should  be  intro¬ 
duced  into  a  low  forcing  houne,  in  succession  to  either  Cucumbers  or 
Melons,  as  soon  as  possible.  The  fruit  fails  to  set  satisfactorily  during 
the  short  dull  days  of  the  late  autumn  and  winter  months,  and  must, 
therefore,  be  secured  earlier,  ripening  taking  place  slowly  all  through 
the  winter.  It  is  not  yet  too  late  to  sow  seed.  Comet,  The  Cropper, 
Ham  Green  Favourite,  as  well  as  others,  are  suitable  for  the  purpose, 
and  if  the  plants  are  raised  very  thinly  in  pans  on  greenhouse  shelves 
they  will  be  sturdy,  and  move  into  3-inch  pots  without  experiencing  any 
perceptible  check.  These  winter  orops  are  best  grown  near  the  glass. 
Plant  not  less  than  12  inches  apart  in  a  narrow  ridge  of  good  loamy 
soil,  and  train  to  a  single  stem.  The  alternative  plan  of  fruiting 
Tomatoes  in  10-inch  pots  answers  well.  If  prepared  in  the  open,  house 
the  plants  before  wet  cold  weather  sets  in,  or  they  may  become  diseased. 
If  possible  arrange  the  plants  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  and  allow  them  to  root 
out  into  these,  then  if  the  ashes  are  kept  moist  the  plants  derive  con¬ 
siderable  benefit  from  the  association. 
Old  plants  under  glass  may  be  made  to  produce  a  good  late  autumn 
and  winter  crop.  Lay  in  young  shoots  thinly  up  the  stems  and  over  the 
trellis,  and  top  these  beyond  the  first  bunch  of  fiower.  Fruit  will  set 
freely  on  these  shoots,  and  if  the  plants  are  well  attended  to  at  the  roots 
a  remunerative  crop  is  the  resnlt. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Stephaaotls  fforlbunda. — Plants  that  have  flowered  and  made 
good  growth  must  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sun.  Admit  air  liberally  to 
ripen  and  harden  the  wood.  This  is  the  secret  of  a  good  supply  of 
flowers  another  year.  Syringe  twice  daily  to  keep  the  plants  clean,  and 
do  not  allow  the  ends  of  growing  shoots  to  twist  together.  If  they  once 
get  into  this  confused  condition  and  mealy  bug  exists  upon  them  it  is 
impossible  to  keep  them  clean.  In  the  end  they  also  entail  double  the 
labour  to  remove  them  from  the  trellis  than  would  be  required  to  train 
the  shoots  properly  as  they  grow.  Plants  that  are  root-bound  and  still 
growing  freely  should  be  supplied  with  weak  stimulants  every  time 
water  is  needed.  Where  an  increase  in  the  number  of  plants  is  required 
it  is  a  good  time  to  insert  cuttings.  Growing  shoots  moderately  soft, 
with  the  soft  point  removed,  root  freely  in  heat  under  hand-lights.  If 
these  are  kept  in  a  temperature  of  60°  they  will,  if  potted,  make  good 
plABtB  by  the  end  of  next  season, 
Xxoras. — It  is  a  mistake  to  shade  these  plants,  they  ripen  their  wood 
and  flower  with  greater  freedom  when  fully  exposed  to  the  sun  than 
when  grown  in  mixed  stoves  and  are  shaded.  Plenty  of  cuttings  should 
be  looted,  soft-growing  ends  being  selected  for  this  purpose.  They 
should  be  inserted  singly  in  small  pots,  as  they  root  quickly  in  brisk 
heat.  Once  they  are  rooted  and  will  bear  full  exposure  place  them  on 
a  shelf  close  to  the  glass,  and  transfer  when  ready  into  4-inch  pots. 
These  plants,  where  plenty  of  heat  is  at  command,  are  easily  grown, 
and  for  general  purposes  they  are  more  effective  with  one  or  two 
trusses  of  flower  in  4-inch  pots  than  plants  of  a  larger  size.  Plenty 
of  heat  and  careful  watering  are  needed,  but  they  are  not  particular 
about  soil,  although  they  do  best  in  peat  and  sand.  We  have,  however, 
succeeded  in  growing  them  well  in  equal  proportions  of  loam  and  leaf 
mould  that  has  not  been  heated  and  coarse  sand.  Daring  the  winter 
the  atmosphere  should  not  be  kept  too  moist  or  the  syringe  used  over  the 
foliage.  The  old  Ixora  coccinea  requires  the  most  careful  watering 
perhaps  of  any. 
Begonia  semperflorens  carmlnea. — This  is  one  of  the  best 
Begonias  that  can  be  grown,  and  it  would  flower  all  the  year  round  if 
allowed  to  do  so.  It  will,  however,  flower  profusely  eight  months  out 
of  the  twelve.  Those  that  commenced  in  January  last  have  continued 
to  flower  up  to  the  present  time.  These  plants  should  be  cut  back, 
keeping  them  on  the  dry  side  until  they  break  into  growth,  when 
they  may  be  turned  out  of  their  pots  and  the  roots  partially  reduced 
and  replaced  in  the  same  size.  They  will  soon  commence  growth  in 
a  vinery  or  any  structure  where  a  little  heat  is  maintained.  Water 
carefully  until  they  are  rooting  freely.  Cuttings  may  be  inserted 
singly  in  2-inch  pots,  but  it  is  necessary  to  select  shoots  that  have  an 
eye  at  the  base.  Any  of  the  tops  will  root,  but  they  only  extend  and 
flower,  being  useless  after  they  are  pruned  back,  unless  by  accident  they 
force  a  growth  bud  at  the  base.  If  this  is  provided  when  the  cuttings 
are  inserted  all  will  go  well.  This  applies  to  many  evergreen  and  semi- 
tuberous  kinds. 
Allamandas. — We  saw  a  fine  plant  recently,  and  was  told  it  had 
ceased  flowering.  It  was  growing  luxuriantly,  but  had  not  a  single 
flower.  The  reason  for  this  was  the  plant  was  crowded  with  growths, 
and  the  house  shaded.  The  growths  of  Allamandas  should  be  evenly 
but  thinly  disposed  over  the  roof  of  the  house,  and  be  fully  exposed  to 
the  sun.  At  one  time  we  shaded  them  during  the  hottest  hours  of  the 
day,  but  have  ifound  this  practice  unnecessary,  and  they  make  short- 
jointed  wood  and  flower  more  profusely  without  shade.  From  three 
plants  not  eighteen  months  old  we  have  gathered  fully  500  blooms. 
Every  shoot  about  1  foot  from  where  they  branch  should  be  full  of 
flower  buds.  It  is  necessary  after  branching  two  or  three  times  jErom 
the  base  to  thin  the  shoots,  and  leave  only  those  that  are  required  to 
furnish  the  roof.  Allamandas  should  under  proper  treatment  begin 
flowering  when  the  growths  are  18  inches  long,  and  continue  as  long 
as  water  and  liquid  manure  is  supplied  if  they  are  grown  in  pots. 
1. 
% 
HE  BEE-KEESr. 
T  .  1 .  i  ■  1  ■  I  .  .1 .  .1  -ir- j .  '1  .  U  1  ^T-  1  - 1  -  t  -  J  ■  1  -  1  - 1  -  1  -  1  ^  1  -J 
AFTER  THE  HONEY  FLOW. 
Except  in  the  Heather  districts  there  will  be  little  honey 
stored  after  this  date,  although  to  the  casnal  observer  this  state¬ 
ment  may  appear  incorrect,  as  there  are  still  numerous  flowers  to  be 
seen  in  the  fields  and  hedgerows.  The  second  crop  of  White 
Clover  is  still  in  bloom.  It  is,  however,  not  much  frequented  by 
the  bees,  which  are  well  aware  there  is  not  muc  h  honey  to  be 
obtained  from  that  source  so  late  in  the  season. 
The  majority  of  the  flowers  in  the  meadows  are  now  over,  but 
many  in  the  garden  yield  either  pollen  or  honey,  on  which 
the  bees  work  freely.  Mignonette  is  one  of  the  best  honey-pro¬ 
ducing  flowers  at  this  time,  but  there  are  not  many  districts 
where  there  is  sufiicient  space  devoted  to  its  culture  for  the  bees 
to  derive  much  benefit  from  it.  Asparagus  is  another  plant  which 
blooms  freely  at  this  season.  Although  tlie  blooms  are  small  and 
insignificant  the  bees  are  very  partial  to  them.  From  this  source 
there  is  doubtless  a  bountiful  supply  of  pollen  obtained,  but  not 
much  honey.  Pollen,  however,  is  an  important  factor  in  the  hive, 
as  the  well-being  of  a  colony  largely  depends  on  a  good  store  of 
pollen.  Bees  should  be  encouraged  to  breed  throughout  the  autumn  ; 
and  if  the  weather  be  inclement,  so  that  they  are  unable  to  leave 
their  hive,  or  if  fine,  a  scarcity  of  flowers,  the  young  stock  of  bees 
will  be  daily  supplied  from  the  stored  up  pollen,  and  will  be  much 
in  advance  of  those  stocks  which  are  not  so  favourably  situated. 
Some  of  the  hedgerows  are  now  a  mass  of  Blackberry  flowers. 
If  the  weather  is  fine  the  bees  obtain  honey  from  them,  but  as  it  is 
dark  in  colour  it  is  useless  except  for  the  bees  to  store  for  present 
requirements  or  for  wintering.  A  small  quantity  of  honey 
obtained  from  this  source  will  soon  spoil  a  good  sample  of  White 
Clover  honey  that  may  have  been  previously  stored  in  the  hive. 
Many  bee-keepers  have  found  this  out  to  their  cost  when  too  late, 
BO  it  is  advisable  to  extract  a  good  sample  of  honey  as  soon  as  it  i^ 
properly  ripened  in  the  hive. 
