156 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  12,  1897. 
Some  light  gritty  material  of  an  opening  character  proves  of  important 
service  by  improving  the  mechanical  condition. 
Trimming  Strawberry  Beds. — Frequent  opportunities  ought  to  be 
taken  t  j  cut  out  superfluous  runners  from  all  plants.  Those  from  which 
new  stock  is  not  being  cultivated  may  be  entirely  cleared  of  runners. 
Weeds  also  remove.  Loosen  the  surface  where  hard.  Excellent  plants 
may  be  found  rooted,  or  rooting,  naturally  into  the  soil  of  established 
beds.  These,  if  wanted,  can  be  preserved  for  shortly  lifting  and  plant¬ 
ing  in  a  permanent  bed.  Superflaous  growth  surrounding  and  over¬ 
crowding  them  must  be  carefully  removed.  Beds  left  too  long  after 
fruiting  before  clearing  become  a  mass  of  weeds  and  runners  difficult  to 
remove. 
Summer  Ttalnnlng:  and  Regulating  Fruit  Trees. — At  no 
season  of  the  year  can  a  better  judgment  be  formed  of  the  condition  of 
fruit  trees  as  regards  the  disposal  of  branches  than  during  the  season 
when  the  foliage  is  present.  Overcrowding  is  unmistakeably  shown  by 
the  interlacing  of  branches  and  the  rank  growth  of  shoots.  Through 
this  the  sun  cannot  properly  penetrate,  nor  air  gain  access,  especially  to 
the  remote  parts  of  the  trees.  Numbers  of  trees  grown  in  a  free  unre¬ 
stricted  form,  including  tall  and  dwarf  standards  and  open  bushes,  pay 
for  a  little  attention  at  the  present  time;  Thinning-out  and  regulating 
the  branches  is  important.  Dispose  them  in  the  best  possible  manner 
in  order  that  they  may  receive  the  full  benefit  of  the  summer  and 
autumn  weather. 
Pruning  away  branches  in  summer  does  no  harm  to  the  trees.  Of 
course,  very  severe  treatment  may  result  in  no  apparent  advantage  for 
a  time.  Trees  neglected  for  years  cannot  be  otherwise  than  severely 
dealt  with  in  attempting  renovation.  When  attended  to  annually  only 
a  limited  amount  will  be  found  necessary  to  remove  at  anyone  time. 
Cut  out  first  the  crossing  and  interlacing  branches,  then  the  useless 
interior  spray  or  wood,  which  is  usually  shaded  and  weakened.  All  the 
wood  intended  for  removal  cut  out  entirely,  close  to  older  branches, 
avoiding  shortening. 
Gooseberries. — The  same  principles  of  thinning  and  regulating  may 
be  extended  to  Gooseberry  bushes.  A  quantity  of  wood  is  produced 
during  the  growing  season  which  renders  the  bushes  overcrowded. 
Sucker  growth  from  the  base  is  prevalent  on  some,  and  this  ought  early 
to  be  dispensed  with,  low-lying  branches  near  the  soil  cut  out  and  shoots 
growing  towards  the  centre.  This  preliminary  treatment  being  com¬ 
pleted,  then  give  the  bushes  a  general  thinning  wherever  shoots  are 
unduly  crowded. 
Black  Currants. — Prune  out  the  old  bearing  wood,  which  will  leave 
room  for  the  young  strong  growths  produced  during  the  current  year  to 
develop,  these  alone  giving  the  best  results. 
Red  Currants. — The  main  branches  of  Red,  also  White,  Currants  are 
each  simple  cordons  extending  from  the  base  of  bushes  or  from  near  the 
main  stem.  The  summer  growths  are  freely  produced  from  the  main 
branches.  It  is  not  usual  to  thin  them  out,  but  to  shorten  them  at  the 
third  leaf  in  order  to  plump  up  their  buds  at  the  base.  This  ought  to  be 
done  now  if  not  previously  carried  out.  Any  old  worn  out  branches 
may  be  cut  out,  and  the  nearest  strong  young  growths  from  the  base 
allowed  to  take  their  place. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  ITectarines. — Burliest  Forced  House. — Trees 
started  in  December  may  be  falling  more  or  less,  yet  there  must 
not  be  any  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  affording  water  and  even 
liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees  as  necessary  to  maintain  the  soil  in  a 
moist  but  not  saturated  condition,  excessive  moisture  and  warm  weather 
being  apt  to  cause  premature  growth.  It  does  not  matter  so  much  about 
rain,  as  with  it  the  air  is  comparatively  cool,  and  then  has  a  beneficial  and 
invigorating  effect.  As  a  safeguard  against  starting  the  blossom  buds, 
allow  such  laterals  as  are  green  and  unripe  to  remain  as  an  outlet  for  any 
excess  of  sap,  and  they  are  equally  effective  in  maintaining  activity 
at  the  roots.  Early  forced  trees,  however,  do  not,  as  a  rule,  make  strong 
growth,  having  generally  a  larger  proportion  of  single  fruit  buds  than 
trees  grown  under  more  favourable  circumstances,  triple  buds  not  being 
nearly  so  frequent,  hence  in  pruning  it  is  not  desirable  to  cut  back  next 
year’s  bearing  wood  unless  of  great  length. 
Very  little  pruning  will  be  needed  provided  disbudding  has  been 
attended  to,  no  more  wood  being  trained  in  than  is  necessary  to  replace  the 
bearing  shoots  of  the  current  year,  and  to  renew  worn-out  growths,  as 
well  as  to  provide  for  the  extension  of  the  trees.  Trees  that  have  long 
been  subjected  to  early  forcing  seldom  grow  too  vigorously,  but  not 
infrequently  become  so  enfeebled  as  to  need  the  removal  of  the  weak 
growths,  which,  though  plentifully  furnished  with  blossom  buds,  are 
undesirable,  from  their  affording  much  smaller  fruit  than  is  yielded  by 
the  moderately  vigorous  and  well-ripened  growths.  Some  trees,  however, 
make  too  vigorous  or  long-jointed  wood,  pushing  laterals  difficult  to 
restrain,  if  they  do  not  frustrate  the  formation  of  fruit  buds  and  interfere 
with  an  equal  distribution  of  the  sap.  Any  trees  which  grow  too 
vigorously  must  be  lifted,  whilst  those  which  show  symptoms  of  weak¬ 
ness  may  have  the  old  soil  removed  from  amongst  the  roots,  supplying 
fresh  turfy  loam,  with  about  one-sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  added.  Give 
a  good  watering  both  to  the  lifted  trees  and  to  those  that  have  had  the 
soil  renewed  about  the  roots.  These  operations  require  to  be  performed 
as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  mature,  and  before  they  fall  from  the  trees. 
Succession  Houses. — Cut  out  the  shoots  that  have  borne  fruit  unless 
required  for  extension,  and  where  the  growths  are  crowded  thin  the 
shoots.  This  will  allow  the  foliage  to  be  more  readily  cleansed  by 
syringing,  repeating  that  as  necessary,  it  being  important  that  the 
foliage  be  kept  clean  and  healthy  as  long  as  possible.  With  free  acess 
to  light  and  air  the  bads  will  form  perfectly,  attention  being  given  to  a 
due  supply  of  water  at  the  roots.  When  the  fruit  is  ripening  a  free 
circulation  of  air  will  enhance  the  quality,  sufficient  water  only  being 
given  to  the  roots  to  prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp,  securing  air 
moisture  by  an  occasional  damping  of  the  paths  and  borders  for  the 
benefit  of  the  foliage,  also  fruit,  which  in  an  arid  atmosphere  is  liable 
to  become  mealy,  whilst  it  ripens  prematurely  if  the  trees  suffer  from 
an  insufficient  supply  of  moisture  in  the  soil.  Ants  in  some  cases  are 
troublesome,  eating  into  the  choicest  fruits.  Wrapping  a  little  cotton 
wool  round  the  stems  of  the  trees  hinders  their  ascent,  securing  it  with 
twine  in  the  middle  soaked  in  a  saturated  solution  of  camphor.  Saucers 
sunk  in  the  ground  level  with  their  edges  and  as  near  their  haunts  as 
possible,  and  pouring  some  treacle  or  syrup  into  each,  attracts  them 
from  the  fruit.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  dip  bits  of  dry  sponge  in  treacle 
held  tightly  in  the  fingers,  then  release  the  pressure  and  get  some  of  it 
into  the  sponge.  When  the  ants  are  at  these  the  bits  of  sponge  can  be 
dipped  in  boiling  water  for  the  destruction  of  the  pests.  Continue  this 
for  a  time  and  there  will  soon  be  a  difference. 
Late  Houses, — Attend  to  thinning  and  regulating  the  current  year’s 
growths,  and  if  they  are  laid  in  thinner  than  is  customary  with  trees  in 
early  houses  the  wood  will  have  a  better  chance  of  ripening,  and  the 
leaves  will  assimilate  more  food,  storing  it  in  the  bud  and  wood  for  the 
support  of  the  blossoms  and  embryonic  fruit  in  the  coming  season. 
Gross  growths  tend  to  the  impoverishment  of  the  weaker,  appropriate 
an  undue  amount  of  sap,  preventing  an  unequal  distribution  of  the 
nutrition,  and  favour  nothing  but  nnfruitfulness  and  gumming.  They 
must  be  stopped  or  removed  altogether.  Endeavour  to  secure  an  even  ‘ 
balance  of  moderately  vigorous  short-jointed  shoots,  and  to  insure  the 
wood  ripening  in  cold  districts  ventilate  freely  in  the  early  part  of  the 
day,  allowing  a  good  heat  through  the  day  from  sun,  closing  in'time  to 
run  up  to  85°  or  90°,  for  sun  heat  after  evaporation  has  been  going  on 
for  some  time  will  not  do  any  harm  if  only  care  is  taken  to  admit  a 
little  air  before  nightfall  to  allow  the  pent  up  heat  and  moisture  to 
escape  and  the  gradual  cooling  down  of  the  atmosphere,  thereby  secur¬ 
ing  rest.  The  early  day  and  night  ventilation  tends  to  the  solidification 
of  the  growth  and  its  ripening.  Keep  the  trees  free  from  red  spider  by 
forcible  syringings  until  the  fruit  gives  indications  of  ripening.  The 
borders  must  be  well  supplied  with  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  be 
mulched  about  an  inch  thick  with  short,  rather  lumpy  manure  from  the 
stables. 
Vines. — Early  Houses. — The  earliest  forced  have  the  wood  ripe  and 
some  of  the  leaves  falling.  Do  not  attempt  to  remove  them  forcibly  nor 
cut  the  laterals  close  in,  as  that  would  probably  cause  the  principal  buds 
to  start ;  therefore  remove  the  laterals  by  degrees,  and  shorten  some  of 
the  strong  shoots,  preserving,  however,  some  growth,  especially  when 
the  principal  leaves  are  down,  above  the  buds  to  which  the  Vines  are  to 
be  pruned,  deferring  the  final  pruning  until  the  early  part  of  September. 
The  old  soil  should  then  be  removed  from  the  surface  of  the  border, 
forking  some  of  it  from  amongst  the  roots,  taking  advantage  of  the 
opportunity  to  raise  any  that  are  deep  and  laying  them  in  fresh  material 
nearer  the  surface.  Good  calcareous  loam  is  the  most  suitable,  with  an 
admixture  of  opening  material,  such  as  old  mortar  rubbish  and  charcoal. 
A  little  approved  fertiliser  is  also  an  advantage.  When  the  Vines  are 
indifferent  in  health  lifting  may  be  carried  out  before  the  leaves  fall 
then  with  a  moderate  watering  the  roots  will  push,  especially  adven¬ 
titious  ones,  from  near  the  collar  into  the  new  soil  at  once,  and  be  in 
capital  condition  for  starting  when  the  time  comes  round.  When  lifting 
or  renovating  the  border  is  delayed  until  the  leaves  are  all  down  the 
trees  do  not  start  so  freely,  the  break  often  being  unsatisfactory. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  Grapes  upon  the  whole  have  been  satis¬ 
factory  as  regards  colour  and  bloom,  and  the  season  has  favoured  finish 
rather  than  size.  Red  spider  in  many  cases  has  been  very  troublesome. 
Copious  supplies  of  water  through  a  light  surface  mulching  of  sweetened 
manure,  along  with  fertilisers  or  liquid  manure  of  a  sustaining  nature, 
with  due  atmospheric  moisture,  appear  least  favourable  to  its  spread, 
and  contribute  to  a  satisfactory  result  in  the  crop.  A  good  array  of 
foliage  fully  exposed  to  light  seems  a  delight  of  the  Vine,  as  the  wood 
is  then  stout,  short-jointed,  and  the  leaves  thick  and  deep  green  in 
colour,  the  Grapes  swell,  and  the  buds  are  plumped  for  next  year’s 
bearing.  Fire  heat  is  often  necessary  to  ripen  midseason  Grapes 
perfectly,  but  with  ventilation  day  and  night  to  insure  a  circulation  of 
air  it  may  often  be  dispensed  with  in  warm  weather.  The  nights,  how¬ 
ever,  are  now  getting  cold,  and  fire  heat  may  be  necessary,  though  a  good 
rest  at  night  aids  Vines  wonderfully  that  are  carrying  heavy  crops  of 
Grapes.  Enough  fire  heat  should  be  given  to  maintain  the  temperature 
at  70°  to  76°  by  day  and  60°  to  65°  at  night,  allowing  5°  more  for 
Muscats.  Take  care  that  moisture  is  not  deposited  on  the  berries  of 
these  during  the  night  or  in  the  morning  for  lack  of  early  attention  to 
ventilation,  otherwise  spot  may  be  the  consequence. 
Late  Houses. — Afford  full  supplies  of  water  through  a  good  smrface 
mulching,  sweetened  horse  droppings  or  stable  litter  freed  of  the  straw 
answering  well  when  not  more  than  a  couple  of  inches  thick,  continuing 
the  supplies  of  nourishment  until  the  Grapes  are  well  advanced  in 
colouring.  Most  late  Grapes  take  a  long  time  to  perfect  thoroaghly, 
and  some,  particularly  Mrs.  Pince,  even  after  appearing  finished,  are 
not  so  up  to  the  shank.  This  is  often  a  consequence  of  too  short  supplies 
of  nourishment,  and  in  some  cases  a  consequence  of  too  early  stopping 
the  supplies  of  food  is  manifest  in  the  Grapes  shrinking,  as  not  unfre- 
quently  occurs  with  Muscats.  All  late  Grapes  require  time.  They  ought 
now  to  be  colouring,  or  advanced  therein,  and  they  must  have  a  fair 
