18C 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  19,  189;. 
for  which  it  is  intended.  It  is  then  placed  in  the  beds,  ramming  it  as 
firmly  as  possible. 
When  this  has  been  done  insert  a  “  dipping  ”  thermometer,  and 
after  the  temperature  has  reached  its  highest  point,  and  receded  to  about 
80®,  the  bed  may  be  spawned.  Break  the  spawn  into  lumps  about 
2  inches  square,  and  insert  them  2  inches  deep  in  the  manaie  at  a 
distance  of  6  inches  apart.  Two  or  three  days  afterwards  give  a  cover¬ 
ing  of  fine  loam  an  inch  thick,  making  this  level  and  firm  by  heating 
with  a  spade.  With  the  manure  properly  moist,  as  it  ought  to  be  when 
used,  the  beds  will  not  require  watering.  The  surface  soil  must  always 
be  kept  moist,  and  this  can  be  done  by  a  light  covering  of  li’ter  and 
occasional  syringings.  The  paths  and  walls  of  the  house  must  also  be 
kept  well  damped.  Keep  the  temperature  of  the  house  about  56°,  dispens¬ 
ing  with  fire  beat  as  much  as  possible.  Mushrooms  usually  appear  from 
five  to  six  weeks  after  spawning,  and  the  beds  continue  productive  for 
two  or  three  months. — Elveden. 
Thoughts  on  Colour. 
Some  praise  the  forms  of  flowers,  others  delight  more  in  fragrance, 
and  all  enjoy  their  many  tints  and  varied  colours.  We  shall  strive  of 
course  in  this  respect  to  please  everybody,  and  have  lovely  forms, 
deliciously  odoured,  and  pleasantly  coloured  joy  givers.  In  the  darkness 
of  a  black  midnight  hoar  have  you  ever  paused  in  contemplation  of  the 
awfulness  if  such  blackness  never  lifted  ?  With  these  thoughts  our 
thanks  of  gratitude  go  up  for  the  good  light  of  day  and  wisdom  to  see 
the  beauties  suKused  through  earth  in  a  thousand  hues. 
Unchanging,  yet  ever  pleasant,  is  the  universality  of  greenery  spread 
out  in  grassy  lands  and  swaying  foliage,  and  the  restful  blue  sky, 
enlivened  by  clouds,  shaded  with  tints  undescribable.  The  reasons 
assigned  for  the  preponderance  of  the  soft  ground-colour  green  are 
readily  apparent  and  conclusive.  It  is  of  all  colours  the  most  restful  to 
our  eyes.  It  is  quiet  and  sober,  but  not  dull,  harmonising  or  contrasting 
acceptably  with  most  other  shades  or  colours. 
Green  is  a  mixture  of  blue  and  yellow.  Ked,  blue,  and  yellow  are 
primitive  colours  and  cannot  be  got  by  admixture.  Purple  is  a  union  of 
red  and  blue ;  orange,  of  red  and  yellow,  and  so  the  list  proceeds. 
Black  or  white  are  not  strictly  colours,  yet  a  ray  of  sunlight  seen 
through  a  prism  gives  a  seven-coloured  spectrum  band  of  colours. 
These  are  red,  orange,  yellow,  blue,  green,  indigo  and  violet  colours  of 
the  rainbow. 
It  is  by  the  aid  of  the  prism  that  the  chemical  elements  of  any 
substance  from  the  sun  itself  down  to  tobacco  ash  can  be  unfathomed. 
Long  and  patient  labours  by  chemists  have  proved  that  all  chemicals 
which  barn  give  a  characteristic  colour  or  invariable  breadth  of  line 
(when  seen  through  the  prism)  on  the  spectrum.  By  careful  observation 
of  these  lines,  colour,  breadth,  and  position  the  elements  are  found  and 
named.  As  stated  previously,  the  prism  dissects  the  seven  colours 
composing  white  light.  Each  colour  shoots  upward  more  or  less,  red 
least  so,  violet  most,  the  others  between.  The  red  light  is  often  seen  at 
sunrise  and  set.  Before  the  sun  comes  in  view  some  few  rays  are 
striking  the  clouds  which  act  like  a  prism,  and  red  light  suffuseth  them, 
it  being  lowest  in  the  order  of  refraction. 
In  explaining  how  flowers  are  coloured.  Dr.  Brewer  states  that 
according  to  the  constitution  of  different  petal  surfaces  divers  lights  are 
reflected,  and  give  to  our  eyes  the  characteristic  hues  seen  in  flowers. 
A  Bose  was  red  because  that  ether — a  subtle  fluid  supposed  to  permeate 
space — undulated  so  many  millions  of  times  per  second  on  the  surface 
exposed.  Greater  or  less  speed  of  undulation  on  various  petal  surfaces 
■gave  other  colours.  These  colours  were  compared  to  a  scale  of  music  in 
which  deep  red  or  bright  red  might  be  likened  to  lower  “  C  ”  or  “  E 
stringed  or  wired  instruments  to  produce  those  sounds  having  to  vibrate 
at  the  same  rate  as  that  which  gave  the  red  or  other  colour  to  the  Eose. 
In  Professor  McNab’s  small  class-book  of  botany  we  find  the 
statement,  “  In  many  of  the  higher  plants  a  red  sap  exists  m  the 
epidermal  cells,  concealing  the  chlorophyll  cells  below.”  This  shall,  of 
course,  refer  to  foliage.  Coloured  crystalloids  are  met  with  in  petals.' 
I  have  a  book  on  “Gardening”  written  by  a  clergyman  so  long  ago  as 
1714.  In  a  chapter  on  “  Budding  ”  he  relates  “  of  a  noble  discovery  by 
virtue  of  inoculation.”  He  took  a  bud  “from  the  yellow  striped 
Jessamine,”  inoculating  it  “in  a  plain  Jessamine  tree,”  and  states  that 
every  shoot  gradually  became  yellow  “  by  virtue  of  the  circulation  of 
the  sap.”  (Sap  circulation  was  at  that  time  doubted  by  many.)  One 
hundred  and  .eighty-three  years  have  passed  since  then,  and  do  we  yet 
know  satisfactorily  the  causes  of  leaf  variegation? 
The  grouping  and  harmonising  of  colour  is  a  matter  of  importance 
among  gardeners.  Mr.  Loudon,  in  his  works,  .advocates  for  unity  of 
expression  massings,  reasoning  that  mixed  arrangements  confuse  the 
vision  and  disturb  the  sense  of  repose.  On  the  other  hand,  William 
Wildsmith,  Shirley  Hibberd,  and  Charles  St.  J.  Smith  unite  to  praise  the 
mixed  style.  For  myself,  I  prefer  the  massing  system,  it  being  pre¬ 
dominant  in  Nature,  and  most  impressive  and  lasting.  Linnaeus,  noble 
man,  on  seeing  an  English  common  all  ablaze  with  yellow  Gorse.  was  so 
affected  that  he  fell  on  his  knees  with  tearful  eyes  and  thanked  God  for 
80  glorious  a  sight. 
Whatever  laws  apply  to  garden  arrangements,  different  ones  are 
practised  in  floral-work  decorations.  In  Miss  Mailing’s  work  on  “  Flowers, 
and  how  to  arrange  them,”  advice  is  given  on  colour  choosing.  “  In 
floral  groups  there  should  be  no  conspicuous  colour — nothing  unduly 
prominent.”  Ground  colours  must  be  studied,  and  colours  chosen  which 
are  proved  to  harmonise.  “  In  all  arrangements  in  which  white  comes 
in  so  suitably,  a  caution  is  very  necessary  against  its  too  frequent  use, 
though  it  is  a  tempting  means  of  separating  antagonistic  colours.  White 
is  so  poverising,  that  even  brilliant  colours  are  made  poor  and  trivial  by 
its  superabundance.”  It  is  cold  and  chilling.  “  In  groups  of  white  a 
little  colour  gives  tone  and  relief.” 
Harmonising  colours  are  :  “  Rose  with  a  liitle  blue  ;  blue  with  a  little 
rose  ;  white  with  mauve  or  lilac,  and  sometimes  a  little  primrose  ;  dark 
purple  and  primrose ;  cerise  or  scarlet  and  white;  blue  shaded,  with  a 
mixture  of  white  and  rose  ;  rose  shaded,  also  with  blue  and  white  ;  ” 
brilliant  yellow  and  deep  black.  These  are  charming. 
The  flowers  themselves  should  be  light  and  free,  using  heavy  masses 
mainly  for  distant  effects.  Dark  green  is  usually  most  appropriate  with 
purely  tinted  heavy  flowers.  Grass  green  is  superb  in  artificial  light.  It 
is  worth  one’s  while  to  note  the  changes  wrought  on  colours  by  altered 
lights  ;  some  are  brilliant,  others  soft,  all  are  somewhat  affected.  I  have 
been  vainly  trying  to  understand  how  “stained”  glass  sends  forth  a 
light  coloured  like  itself.  It  must  be  by  polarisation,  and  polarisation 
is  a  change  produced  on  clear  light  by  a  series  of  reflections  or  trans¬ 
mission  through  crystals.  (Crystals  are  bodies  of  any  colour,  generally 
angularly  shaped.) 
The  colours  of  many  flowers  require  to  be  peered  into,  studied,  and 
reasoned.  If  we  have  a  cross  or  union  of  two  colours  then  at  once — 
when  describing — mentally  reason  whether  this  colour  or  that,  united, 
would  produce  a  hue  like  the  one  before  you,  and  thus  till  satisfied. 
Practice  alone  will  make  perfect.  If  you  wish  to  be  a  good  gardener, 
and  raise  the  profession,  then  you  must  consider  the  subject  of  “  colour  ” 
in  its  many  bearings.  Write  out  the  names  of  every  colour  you  have 
beard  or  read  of,  and  then,  as  “An  Old  Boy”  says,  “Be  inspired  to 
know  ”  and  remember  their  individuality  and  harmonious  arrangement. — 
A  Young  Scot. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Old  plants,  whether  In  houses,  pits,  or  frames,  which 
have  been  bearing  from  an  early  part  of  the  season,  produce  fruit  about 
this  time,  or  soon  afterwards,  knobby  ended,  and  essential  as  these  are  for 
seed,  they  are  indifferent  for  use.  Besides,  seed  bearing  is  fatal  to  the 
production  in  quantity  of  useful  fruit.  Old  plants,  however,  may  be 
kept  in  a  bearing  condition  by  cutting  out  the  old  growths  and 
encouraging  young,  so  as  to  insure  a  succession  of  bearing  wood,  yet  the 
fruit  is  more  or  less  liable  to  come  knobbed.  Train  the  young  growths 
thinly,  removing  old  leaves  to  afford  room  for  new  growths,  and  stop 
at  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Remove  the  surface  soil  where  it 
can  fee  done  without  injury  to  the  roots,  and  supply  fresh  lumpy  loam. 
Plants  in  frames  that  have  been  bearing  some  time  will  be  restored  to 
vigour  by  a  free  thinning  out  of  the  old  growths  and  the  addition  of  a 
little  fresh  loam,  giving  a  moderate  watering  and  a  sprinkling  over  the 
foliage  on  fine  afternoons,  closing  at  about  3  P.M.  With  linings  to  the 
beds,  and  the  protection  of  mats  over  the  lights.  Cucumbers  will  be 
produced  for  a  lengthened  period. 
Autumn-fruiting  Plants. — When  a  supply  of  Cucumbers  is  wanted 
in  late  summer  and  autumn  young  plants  afford  them  much  better  than 
old  ones,  either  in  frames  or  houses.  Therefore,  the  plants  raised  some 
time  ago  and  planted  out  should  be  encouraged  to  make  a  strong  growth 
by  earthing  the  roots  betimes,  applying  enough  soil  each  time  to  cover 
those  protruding,  and  taking  care  to  have  the  soil  moist  and  warm. 
Supply  water  to  the  roots  only  when  wanted,  and  give  a  thorough  supply 
each  time.  Syringe  about  3  p.m.,  damping  in  the  morning,  at  noon  and 
in  the  evening  in  bright  weather.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65° 
-to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  and 
close  suflSciently  early  to  rise  to  90°,  95°,  or  even  100°.  Train  the  growths 
ratker  thinly,  allowing  about  12  inches  between  the  side  growths,  and 
stop  them  about  every  foot’s  growth  to  give  the  needful  fruiting  and 
furnishing  shoots.  Remove  all  fruits  and  male  flowers  as  they  show  so 
as  to  Induce  a  sturdy  habit,  the  beginning  of  September  being  sufficiently 
early  to  allow  fruit  to  show  for  cutting  at  the  end  of  the  month,  then 
by  cropping  lightly  fruit  will  be  had  in  full  supply  later  on,  when  it  is 
most  wanted  ;  the  plants,  however,  will  give  fruit  from  the  early  part  of 
September  if  desired,  and  not  being  over  burdened,  keep  up  a  succession 
till  the  new  year  or  longer.  Avoid  overfeeding,  as  it  only  induces 
fungoid  diseases  and  favours  root  eelworm  attack.  Secure  plenty  of  roots 
by  sweet  compost,  and  sturdy  growth  by  top-dressing  of  fertilisers  and 
judicious  ventilation  with  full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  the  light. 
Houses  for  Winder  Fruit. — The  structure  must  be  light  and 
efficiently  heated  both  at  top  and  bottom,  and  means  of  ventilation  be 
provided  so  that  air  can  be  admitted  when  necessary  without  creating  a 
prejudicial  draught.  The  plants  will  have  been  raised  from  seed,  say 
about  the  10th  of  this  month.  Pot  the  plants  as  soon  as  ready,  keep 
them  near  the  glass,  transfer  into  larger  pots  as  they  require  more 
root  space,  and  place  a  small  stick  to  each  for  its  support,  growing  the 
plants  without  stopping,  but  rubbing  off  side  shoots  as  they  appear  to 
the  height  of  the  trellis.  lu  the  meanwhile  the  house  should  be  cleansed 
and  repaired  or  painting  completed.  Remove  all  the  old  soil,  and  mako 
everything  as  sweet  as  possible,  so  that  the  plants  may  have  a  chance. 
