August  19,  iSyf. 
JOmil^AL  OF  tiOt^TlVULflTRF  AM  COTTAOF  GA&DmM. 
Winter  Cncumber  growing  in  much  easier  to  write  about  than  to 
practise  snccessfully. 
Plsra* — Earliest  Forced  Trees. — For  the  earliest  crops,  trees  in  pots 
are  the  most  suitable,  and  the  most  reliable  varieties  are  Early  Violet, 
St.  John’s,  Pingo  de  Mel,  and  Brown  Turkey,  as  they  give  the  best 
returns  and  are  surest  in  the  first  crop.  The  trees  may  now  bo  planted 
outside  if  the  wood  be  ripe ;  but  if  there  is  any  doubt  about  it,  continue 
them  under  glass  with  a  free  circulation  of  air.  These  are  matters  on 
which  the  cultivator  will  need  to  exercise  judgment.  In  either  case  the 
trees  must  not  suffer  for  water  at  the  roots,  and  any  of  these  extending 
beyond  the  pots  should  be  cut  off,  affording  water  only  to  keep  the  foliage 
fresh. 
The  earliest  forced  planted-out  trees  will  now  be  ripening  the  young 
wood,  and  air  may  be  given  very  liberally,  watering  being  confined 
to  keeping  the  foliage  from  becoming  limp.  If,  however,  the  second 
crop  is  not  yet  ripened,  moderate  in  the  soil,  and  even  atmosphere  will 
be  necessary,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air  to  insure  high  quality  in  the 
fruit.  When  the  fruit  is  all  gathered,  the  wood  not  further  required 
should  be  cut  away  in  favour  of  the  successional  growths,  and  these  being 
allowed  to  point  towards  the  light  will  become  well  matured  at  their 
extremities,  which  is  the  chief  thing  to  secure  a  full  first  crop  another 
season. 
Unsatisfactory  Trees, — If  any  of  those  planted  out  in  house  grow  too 
rampantly,  root-pruning  should  be  resorted  to  and  the  roots  confined  to  a 
narrow  border  not  more  than  half  the  width  of  the  trellis,  grand  crops 
being  bad  from  trees  in  3  to  4  feet  width  of  border.  But  to  secure  a  satisfac¬ 
tory  first  crop  another  season  it  is  necessary  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  wood. 
Trees,  therefore,  which  are  unsatisfactory  in  cropping  should  nave  a 
trench  taken  out  as  deeply  as  the  roots,  at  a  distance  of  3  or  4  feet  from 
the  stem,  and  all  the  roots  being  detached  the  tendency  to  a  late  growth 
will  be  checked,  and  the  wood  will  ripen  if  thinly  disposed,  and  the 
points  of  the  shoots  allowed  to  grow  up  to  the  light  instead  of  being 
closely  tied  down  will  form  embryonic  Pigs.  This  should  be  attended 
to  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  gathered,  and  the  trees  may  be  lifted  as  soon  as, 
the  leaves  give  indications  of  falling,  replanting  in  fresh  soil.  If  the 
drainage  be  defective,  place  in  12  inches  of  rather  rough  brick 
rubble,  and  3  inches  thickness  of  old  mortar  rabbish,  using  the  finer  parts 
to  the  extent  of  a  fifth  with  the  soil,  which  may  consist  of  any  good,  rather 
strong,  but  porous  loam  with  a  fair  amount  of  grit  or  small  gravel  in  it. 
Incorporate  thoroughly  and  ram  the  soil  well  in  replanting  the  trees  so 
as  to  secnre  short-jointed  wood.  A  dip  of  24  inches  suffices,  or  if  the 
border  be  somewhat  wide,  18  inches.  Where  the  drainage  is  efficient  and 
the  border  in  good  order,  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  confine  the  roots 
to  the  narrow  border,  removing  some  of  the  old  soil  from  amongst 
them,  relaying  them  in  fresh  soil,  or  even  the  old,  with  an  addition 
of  old  mortar  rubbish  well  solidified. 
Late  Houses, — In  wall  cases  the  fruit  ripens  about  this  time  onwards 
into  September.  Brown  Turkey  stands  unrivalled  for  general  purposes, 
but  Brunswick,  where  there  is  room,  cannot  well  be  beaten,  and  a  similar 
remark  applies  to  White  Marseilles.  The  great  point  to  aim  at  is  sturdy 
growths,  securing  them  by  keeping  thin  and  the  roots  restricted  to  a 
border  of  compact  materials.  Unless  thoroughly  solidified  growths  are 
made  it  is  useless  expecting  abundant  crops  of  fine  fruit ;  it  only  comes 
on  short-jointed,  well-ripened  wood.  Keep  up  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly,  expose  the  fruit  as  much  as  possible  to  the  sun,  and  afford 
no  more  water  at  tbe  roots  than  sufficient  to  keep  the  foliage  in  health. 
If  the  trees  are  too  luxuriant  and  the  wood  does  not  ripen,  treat  them  as 
advised  for  unsatisfactory  trees. 
Melons  In  Houses. — The  plants  require  less  water  as  the  days 
shorten,  only  giving  sufficient  to  keep  the  foliage  healthy  and  the 
fruit  swelling.  When  this  is  completed  afford  no  more  than  to  keep 
the  leaves  from  flagging.  Stop  laterals  to  one  leaf  on  successional 
growths,  rub  off  all  superfluous  shoots  as  they  show,  thin  the  laterals 
where  crowded,  not  allowing  them  to  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves 
or  to  retard  the  swelling  of  the  fruit.  Plants  with  fruit  advanced  for 
ripening  should  be  kept  drier  at  the  roots  and  have  air  liberally,  avoiding 
a  close  atmosphere,  as  that  frequently  results  in  the  fruit  cracking,  and 
generally  causes  the  flavour  to  be  inferior.  Keep  the  night  temperature 
at  G5°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and  10°  to  15°  rise  from 
sun  heat.  Place  out  the  latest  plants  without  delay,  and  give  every 
encouragement. 
Plants  in  Pits  and  Frames, — The  latest  Melons  are  set  and  swelling, 
and  will  be  the  better  for  good  linings  to  tbe  beds,  so  as  to  insure 
steady  progress  and  the  free  admission  of  air.  Those  in  hot-water 
heated  pits  will  be  the  better  for  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  on 
cold  nights  and  on  dull  days.  Gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  affords 
facilities  for  ventilation,  a  little  being  given  to  insure  elaboration  of 
the  juices.  The  plants  may  be  sprinkled  on  fine  afternoons,  always 
early,  avoiding  tbe  stems  or  collars,  and  closing  before  the  temperature 
has  receded  to  80°,  so  as  to  raise  the  heat  to  90°  or  95°,  or  e^en  100°. 
Admit  a  little  air  at  75°,  increase  it  with  the  advancing  sun  heat,  and 
keep  through  the  day  at  85°  or  90°  by  that  means.  Employ  covering 
over  the  lights  on  cold  nights,  but  remove  early  in  tbe  morning,  so  as  to 
let  the  sun  act  on  the  frames  or  pots  and  thus  secure  a  long  day’s 
work. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
frenob  and  Fancy  Pelargoniums. — Plants  that  have  hard, 
well-ripened  wood  may  be  pruned  back  closely,  and  stood  in  a  frame 
until  they  commence  growth.  If  they  are  syringed  twice  daily,  and  the 
frame  closed  early  in  the  afternoon,  they  will  soon  start,  and  no  water 
will  be  needed  at  their  roots  before  they  reach  this  stage.  When  they  have 
well  broken  into  growth  the  old  soil  may  be  shaken  from  amongst  their 
roots  and  the  p'ants  repotted  in  a  smaller  size.  The  soil  may  consist 
of  good  loam  three  parts,  one  part  leaf  mould,  one-seventh  decayed 
manure  and  sand.  Syringe  lightly  and  water  carefally  until  they 
commence  rooting  freely  into  the  new  soil.  The  frame  may  be  kept 
moderately  close  at  first,  then  admit  air  abundantly  to  insure  sturdy 
growth.  Young  plants  that  are  just  rooted  in  small  pots  may  be 
placed  into  4^ -inch  pots.  Give  abundant  air  from  tbe  first,  but 
water  carefully,  and  they  will  soon  commence  rapid  growth.  Cold 
frames  are  the  most  suitable  structures  for  them,  so  that  the  lights  can 
be  thrown  off  after  active  growth  has  commenced.  Good  cuttings  may 
still  be  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  and  stood  in  cold  frames  until  they  are 
rooted. 
Roman  Hyaclntlia. — For  early  flowering  bulbs  may  be  potted  at 
once.  They  can  be  placed  thickly  together  in  pots,  pans,  or  boxes, 
according  to  individual  requirements.  We  have  found  them  to  succeed 
well  in  equal  quantities  of  old  refuse  soil  from  the  potting  shed  and 
good  loam,  to  which  is  added  leaf  mould,  sand,  and  a  little  decayed 
manure.  The  bulbs  after  they  are  potted  should  be  placed  outside 
and  covered  with  ashes  4  inches  deep.  Select  for  them  a  position 
moderately  sheltered  from  the  sun,  as  when  fully  exposed  the  soil  in  tbe 
pots  is  liable  to  become  too  dry.  Bulbs  may  be  potted  at  intervals  of 
three  weeks  until  the  end  of  October. 
Snowdrops  and  Crocuses. — Where  these  are  required  to  flower 
early  they  should  be  potted  at  once,  and  not  delayed  until  October  and 
then  subjected  to  undue  forcing  in  spring.  Failure  is  certain  to  follow 
such  a  course  of  treatment.  If  home-grown  bulbs  are  prepared  for  this 
purpose  where  they  do  well,  and  are  potted  now,  it  will  found  that 
the  pots  are  full  of  roots  by  the  time  imported  roots  can  be  obtained. 
These,  if  never  removed  from  cold  frames,  will  precede  those  outside  in 
flowering. 
Primulas. — All  but  the  latest  should  be  in  their  largest  pots.  Be 
careful  to  grow  them  on  a  cool  moist  base  where  they  can  be  protected 
from  strong  sun,  but  where  they  can  enjoy  abundance  of  light.  Provide 
ventilation  most  liberally  to  insure  sturdy  growth.  These  plants  are 
frequently  spoilt  by  keeping  thern  too  close  ;  they  draw  up  weakly,  and 
are  a  prey  to  damp  in  autumn.  Give  the  earliest  plants  soot  water  in  a 
clear  state,  and  a  little  artificial  manure  on  the  surface  once  a  fortnight. 
Double  varieties  should  also  be  in  their  largest  pots.  These  do  better 
close  to  tbe  glass  where  they  can  be  shaded  from  the  sun  provided  they 
stand  on  a  bed  of  ashes  or  gravel. 
Petunias. — Plants  for  early  flowering  in  5-inch  pots  next  season 
may  be  rooted  at  once  and  then  transferred  to  3-inch  pots.  After  they 
are  rooted  pinch  out  the  points  to  induce  them  to  branch,  and  grow 
them  as  cool  and  sturdily  as  possible.  Any  good  varieties  from  amongst 
the  seedlings  that  were  raised  in  spring  may  also  be  perpetuated  by 
cuttings  inserted  at  the  present  time.  The  cuttings  of  Petunias  are 
liable  to  damp  if  they  are  placed  in  too  warm  and  too  close  a  structure. 
A  cold  frame,  that  can  be  kept  shaded,  will  be  found  the  best  place  for 
them. 
Fuchsias . — Cuttings  of  these  may  also  be  inserted  now,  and  they 
root  freely  in  cool  frames  if  dibbled  thickly  into  boxes.  They  should  be 
potted  singly  after  they  are  rooted,  and  encouraged  to  make  firm  growth 
by  potting  them  moderately  firm  and  growing  them  as  cool  as  possible. 
The  Weather. 
The  bright  weather  experienced  throughout  the  country  during 
the  whole  of  July  and  the  first  week  in  August  has  had  the  effect 
of  drying  the  pastures,  and  little  honey  has  been  obtained  from 
the  second  crop  of  white  Clover.  It  is  many  years  since  the  pas^ 
tures  in  this  locality  (South  Yorkshire)  have  been  parched  so 
badly  as  at  the  present  time  ;  nor  is  this  to  be  wondered  at  when 
we  take  into  consideration  the  deficiency  in  the  rainfall.  During  the 
month  of  J uly  less  than  three-quarters  of  an  inch  was  registered, 
in  marked  contrast  to  what  is  usually  our  wettest  month  ;  the 
temperature,  too,  being  much  above  the  average.  On  several 
occasions  the  maximum  shade  thermometer  registered  86°  ;  but  at 
noon  on  the  5  th  inst.  the  highest  shade  temperature  recorded  for 
many  years  was  reached — namely,  91°.  The  heat  was  almost 
unbearable.  Some  combs  that  were  exposed  to  the  sun  were 
quickly  melted  ;  hives  were  all  shaded,  and  free  ventilation  was 
given  at  the  entrances.  It  is  during  a  spell  of  hot  weather  when 
the  advantage  of  having  loose  floor  boards  to  all  the  hives  is  fully 
appreciated,  as  the  bee-keeper  is  then  enabled  to  wedge  up  tbe  front 
of  all  hives,  and  thus  provide  ample  ventilation  ;  but  even  with 
full  air  space  and  shade  it  is  surprising  the  combs  are  not  more 
often  melted  than  they  are.  Tbe  bees,  however,  keep  up  a  circu* 
lation  of  air  by  fanning  at  tbe  entrance. 
Since  tbe  above  date  there  has  been  heavy  thunder  locally,  but 
very  little  rain.  The  temperature  is  now  lower,  but  tbe  days  are 
fine  and  bright.  The  bees  are  busy  storing  what  the  country 
people  call  honeydew,  being  mostly  caused  by  the  aphides, 
which  at  this  season  infest  the  foliage  of  many  of  our  hardy 
