September  2,  1897, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
227 
Mignonette  in  Pots. 
This  sweet-scented  flower  is  appreciated  by  everybody,  and  never 
more  so  than  when  grown  in  pots  for  winter  flowering.  Many  growers 
sow  a  few  seeds  in  5-inch  pots,  and  after  thinning  the  plants  to  four  or 
five  grow  them  on  and  flower  them  without  giving  any  shift  whatever. 
This  method  is  a  good  one  if  only  a  small  ([uantity  of  bloom  is  desired, 
but  where  an  abundance  is  looked  for  the  following  method,  though  an 
old  one,  will  be  found  to  answer  well. 
Seeds  should  be  sown  the  first  week  in  July  in  4-inch  pots,  containing 
a  mixture  of  two  parts  rich  fibrous  loam,  one  part  broken  mortar  rubble, 
and  one  part  leaf  soil  and  sand,  the  whole  being  thoroughly  mixed 
together  and  made  fii’m  in  the  pots,  which  may  be  assigned  to  a  position 
on  a  bed  of  coal  ashes  in  a  cold  frame  having  a  north  aspect.  One  good 
watering  with  occasional  syringings  will  suffice  until  the  seedlings  are 
large  enough  to  thin.  This  should  be  promptly  done,  leaving  four  plants 
in  each  pot.  When  the  plants  have  made  six  leaves  stop  them,  the  result 
being  several  side  shoots. 
i\s  soon  as  the  roots  have  well  filled  the  pots,  and  before  they  become 
matted  together,  give  the  plants  a  shift  into  8-inch  pots,  this  time  using  a 
compost  consisting  of  loam  two  parts,  mortar  rubble  one  part,  sand  and 
old  Mushroom  bed  refuse  one  part,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  soot  and 
some  approved  artificial  manure.  The  mortar  rubble  is  an  important 
part  of  the  compost,  inasmuch  as  it  keeps  the  soil  open  and  sweet.  The 
potting  reijuires  to  be  firmly  done,  and  the  soil  should  be  in  just  such  a 
friable  condition  as  will  allow  of  its  being  rammed  without  any  fear  of  it 
adhering  to  the  potting  stick. 
Throughout  the  entire  season  of  growth  the  plants  ought  to  be  kept 
in  the  frame  quite  close  to  the  glass,  as  much  air  as  possible  being  given, 
and  the  lights  put  on  only  at  night  or  during  showery  weather,  and  thgn 
well  tilted.  Towards  the  end  of  September  remove  the  plants  to  a  shelf 
in  a  cool  house  where  they  will  receive  plenty  of  light.  M'atering  must 
at  all  times  be  carefully  done,  each  plant  being  examined.  As  the  plants 
gain  in  size  peg  them  down  until  the  pots  are  well  covered,  staking  as 
requii’ed  and  removing  every  flower  until  the  beginning  of  November. 
Liquid  manure  and  soot  water  is  useful  now  as  a  stimulant,  and  the  plants 
will  attain  to  almost  bush-like  dimensions,  covered  with  large  spikes  of 
flowers,  at  a  season  when  cut  flowers  are  none  too  plentiful  viz., 
November  onwards  for  many  weeks. 
The  essential  points  to  remember  are -timely  thinning,  cool  treat¬ 
ment,  firm  potting,  and  cautious  watering,  which  if  carefully  attended  to 
ai’e  certain  to  give  good  results. — Youngster. 
CUT/riTRE  OF  THE  (IRAPE  VINE. 
The  Grape  Vine,  botanically  named  Yitis  vinifera,  has  long  taken  a 
foremost  place  amongst  the  choicest  fruits  of  the  land,  not  only  for  use  as 
dessert,  but  from  its  tuice  we  get  our  best  wines.  It  is  not  intended  to 
give  an  historical  sketch  of  the  Vine,  although  that  might  be  very  inter¬ 
esting  to  readers  of  the  “  Domain,”  but  to  give  a  few  notes  on  the  cultivation 
of  this  grand  fruit  as  observed  by  the  writer.  Let  us  hope  I  shall  succeed 
in  my  endeavour,  but  should  I  err  in  any  of  my  statements  I  trust  I  may 
be  put  on  the  straight  path. 
Propagation. — There  are  many  ways  of  increasing  the  Vine 
namely,  by  budding,  grafting,  inarching,  layering,  cuttings,  eyes,  and 
seeds.  It  is  intended  in  this  article  to  deal  only  with  eyes,  as  that  mode 
of  propagation  is  mostly  practised  by  private  gardeners.  Commence  by 
preparing  a  sufficient  number  of  clean  3-inch  pots  by  well  draining,  and 
firmly  filling  with  a  compost  consisting  of  good  loam,  leaf  mould,  and 
sand.  Make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  pot,  so  deep  that  when  the  wood 
is  placed  in  it  the  eye  just  protrudes  above  the  soil.  In  preparing  the 
eyes  select  well  ripened  wood  with  prominent  round  eyes.  Cut  the  wood 
through  at  about  half  an  inch  from  the  eye  each  way,  the  cuts  being 
made  diagonally  from  the  top  downwards,  .^^bout  a  quarter  of  the  wood 
is  cut  off  from  the  side  opposite  the  eye.  All  is  then  ready  for  insertion. 
When  placing  the  eye  in  the  pot  it  is  better  to  let  the  wood  rest  on  sand, 
as  this  tends  to  keep  it  sweeter,  and  so  quicker  root  action  is  aided. 
Draw  the  soil  round  the  eye,  making  all  firm,  afterwards  sprinkling  silver 
sand  on  the  surface  of  the  pots. 
From  the  middle  of  January  to  early  in  February  is  the  best  time  to 
perform  this  operation.  When  all  the  eyes  are  inserted,  plunge  the  pots 
in  a  bottom  heat  ranging  from  75°  to  80°.  The  temperature  of  the  house 
should  be  about  70°  by  night,  with  a  proportionate  rise  by  day.  Should 
the  soil  not  be  thought  sufficiently  moist,  a^ord  a  light  watering,  care 
being  taken  not  to  get  the  compost  too  wet  or  failure  will  ensue.  ^Vhen 
the  3'oung  plants  are  well  rooted  and  growing  nicely,  remove  to  6-inch 
pots,  using  a  compost  as  before,  only  the  loam  should  be  rougher  and 
more  fibrous.  If  these  pots  can  be  plunged  in  bottom  heat  so  much  the 
better.  When  well  rooted  take  the  plants  from  the  plunging  material  and 
stand  them  as  near  the  glass  as  safety  will  permit,  in  order  that  sturdy, 
short-jointed  wood  may  be  formed. 
Use  the  syringe  freely  about  the  foliage,  both  in  the  morning  and  at 
closing  time,  not  only  to  keep  away  insect  pests,  but  to  aid  a  clean,  free 
growth.  Air  should  be  admitted  very  sparingly  at  first,  gradually  increas¬ 
ing  the  amount  as  the  days  become  brighter  and  warmer,  but  on  no 
account  allow  so  much  as  to  cripple  the  young  growths  and  tender  leaves. 
Pinch  the  laterals  when  they  have  made  one  leaf,  but  do  not  stop  the 
leader  ;  let  it  run  as  far  as  it'likes,  tying  down  to  avoid  entanglements.  _  As 
the  pots  fill  with  roots  an  occasional  application  of  some  proved  fertiliser 
is  very  beneficial. 
Assuming  the  plants  are  nicely  growing,  we  will  leave  them  for  a 
time,  and  turn  our  attention  to  structures  for  Grapes,  borders,  and 
planting.— Semrer.  continued.) 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — As  the  days  become  shorter  and  the  nights  colder, 
closing  the  house  earlier,  also  syringing  sooner,  must  be  attended  to  in 
order  to  secure  as  much  advantage  as  possible  from  sun  heat  and  prevent 
excess  moisture  on  the  foliage  during  the  night.  In  cold,  wet  weather 
fire  heat  becomes  necessary  to  secure  clean,  straight  fruits,  maintaining  a 
temperature  of  70°  to  75°  by  day  and  6.5°  to  70"  at  night.  Allow  the 
heat  to  rise  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  close  so  as  to  secure  the  latter 
temperature  to  95°  or  more  for  some  time  in  the  early  part  of  fine  after¬ 
noons.  Keep  the  growths  fairly  thin,  removing  old  shoots  so  as  to  make 
room  for  young  ones,  and  thus  provide  a  succession  of  bearing  parts. 
Stop^the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit  unless  growth  is  wanted,  then 
allow  more  e.xtension,  always,  however,  avoiding  crowding.  Encourage 
root  action  by  a  steady  bottom  heat  of  80°,  surface  di’essing  with  lumpy 
loam  and  sweetened  horse  droppings,  and  sprinkle  a  small  handful  of  soot 
on  each  square  yard  of  bed.  This  gives  the  fruit  a  fine  deep  green  colour 
— a  point  of  considerable  importance — besides  promoting  the  health  of 
the  plants,  and  with  liquid  manure  in  a  tepid  state  whenever  water  is 
required  secures  an  abundant  crop.  1  )o  not,  however,  overcrop  ;  but  the 
output  can  be  materially  augmented  by  cutting  the  fruit  directly  it  becomes 
fit  for  use. 
Autumn  Fruiters. — The  foregoing  remarks  apply  to  plants  in  bearing 
some  time,  and  to  these  in  measure  of  temperature  and  nutrition,  but  the 
autumn  fruiters  will  only  require  stopping  to  insure  an  even  spread  of 
foliage,  and  on  the  corresponding  bearing  growths  keeping  tendrils  and 
male  flowers  removed.  The  plants  will  now  bear  the  sun  unshaded, 
avoiding  morning  syringing,  and  only  using  it  on  fine  afternoons,  then 
lightly  and  early,  keeping  the  house  damp  as  required,  ^'entilate  in 
moderation,  avoiding  clraughts,  as  they  chill  and  stunt  the  growths  and 
fruits,  and  if  no  air  is  given  the  foliage  becomes  thin  and  flabby,  yet  a 
somewhat  close,  warm,  and  moist  atmosphere  is  necessary  for  clean 
growths  in  both  shoots  and  fruits.  Remove  the  first  shows  of  fruit  on 
weakly  plants,  and  seek  to  encourage  sturdy,  thoroughly  solidified 
growths  by  judicious  ventilation  and  gentle  fire  heat  when  needful. 
Winter  Fruiters. — The  plants  from  seed  sown  in  August  will  now  be 
ready  to  plant  out.  The  house  being  a  light  one,  the  heating  means 
adequate  to  maintaining  a  temperature  of  70''  to  75°  in  all  weathers,  with  a 
bottom  heat  of  80°  to  90°,  the  prospect  of  having  Cucumbers  in  winter  are 
favourable,  not  otherwise.  First  of  all  thoroughly  cleanse  the  house, 
removing  every  particle  of  old  soil,  and  scalding  the  whole  of  the 
interior  with  boiling  water,  then  wash  the  woodwork  with  petroleum, 
softsoap,  or  carbolic  soap,  water  and  a  brush,  cleansing  the  glass  with 
clear  water,  limewashing  the  walls  with  hot  lime  and  a  small  handful  of 
flowers  of  sulphur  in  each  pailful.  If  rubble  is  used  about  and  over  the 
pipes  for  bottom  heat  see  to  cleaning  it  by  taking  out  and  washing.  iSlake 
the  drainage  secure  with  a  layer  of  turves  previously  charred  or  scalded. 
Fut  in  hillocks  or  ridges  of  soil  2  feet  wide  at  the  base,  10  to  12  inches 
deep,  and  1  foot  across  at  the  top.  Turfy  loam  laid  up  until  the  grass  is 
killed  (and  with  it  14  lbs.  of  basic  slag  phosphate  and  7  lbs.  of  kainit  per 
cubic  yard),  chopped  up  rather  roughly,  two-thirds  ;  fibrous  sandy  peat 
one-third,  chopped  or  torn  up,  rejecting  any  woody  matter  ;  old  mortar 
rubbish  freed  of  laths  and  other  pieces  of  woody  substance,  the  rough 
broken  small,  form,  thoroughly  incorporated,  a  suitable  compost.  Being 
neither  wet  nor  dry,  it  may  be  made  moderately  firm. 
Plant  when  the  compost  is  warmed  through,  press  the  soil  gently,  and 
secure  the  plants  to  stakes  reaching  to  the  trellis.  Rub  off  the  laterals 
to  the  bottom  wire,  and  stop  the  leading  growth  at  about  the  second  or 
third  wire  of  the  trellis.  Shade  from  bright  sun  until  established. 
Syringe  on  fine  afternoons  lightly  and  early,  damping  in  the  morning,  at 
noon,  and  early  in  the  evening.  Maintain  a  day  temperature  of  70°  to 
75°,  85°  to  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  falling 
to  65°  or  even  60°  in  the  early  morning.  The  plants  thus  attended  to 
will  fruit  in  late  autumn,  but  they  must  not  be  cropped  too  much  if  they 
are  to  give  a  plentiful  sujjply  from  Christmas  to  the  spring. 
Where  seed  was  not  sown  in  August,  and  Cucumbers  are  required 
at  the  new  year  onward,  sow  early  in  this  month.  The  varieties  are 
legion  ;  none  is  better  than  Improved  Telegi’aph,  Rochford  and  Cardiff 
Castle  being  excellent.  Snow’s  Winter,  a  very  old  variety,  and  seen  in  the 
Syon  House  type,  may  not  now  be  procurable,  otherwise  it  has  no  equal 
for  swelling  in  the  winter  months.  Sow  the  seed  singly  in  small  pots  a 
little  more  than  half  filled  with  soil,  and  cover  half  an  inch  deep.  Keep 
the  plants  near  the  glass,  and  earth  them  up  as  they  grow,  and  transfer 
to  5-inch  pots  when  they  need  a  shift,  placing  a  stick  to  each,  to  which 
secure  the  growth  as  it  advances.  Train  with  one  shoot  by  rubbing  off 
the  laterals  as  they  show.  The  plants  will  be  fit  to  place  out  during  the 
first  fortnight  of  October. 
In  Pits  and  Frames.  —If  the  growths  are  trained  somewhat  thinljf,  water¬ 
ing  done  earl^  and  judiciously,  the  plants  will  continue  in  bearing  some 
considerable  time.  A  light  sprinkling  of  water  may  be  given  at  closing 
time  on  fine  afternoons,  but  it  will  not  be  much  needed  after  this,  or  very 
little  of  it,  the  plants  deriving  sufficient  moisture  through  the  decay  of 
