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JOURNAL  OF  HORTTCULTUnE  ANT)  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  2,  1897. 
the  fermenting  beds.  Line  the  beds  with  sweetened  stable  litter,  and 
admit  a  little  air  at  the  back  to  allow  of  any  r.ank  steam  escaping.  The 
night  temperature  should  be  kept  at  05°,  a  little  air  given  at  75°,  and 
keeping  through  the  day  between  that  and  90°.  On  cold  nights  employ  a 
covering  of  mats  over  the  lights. 
Melons. — The  fruit  ripening  is  improved  in  flavour  by  a  brisk  heat  in 
the  daytime,  and  with  sufficient  ventilation  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly.  Keep  water  from  the  house  and  the  soil  somewhat  dry  as 
soon  as  the  fruit  commences  ripening,  supplying  moisture  only  to  prevent 
flagging.  Melons  are  really  good  in  September  if  well  ripened,  and  so 
also  are  (October  ones.  The  later  fruiting  plants  have  the  Melons  in  an 
advanced  swelling  condition,  and  will  be  assisted  by  a  little  weak  liquid 
manure.  Keep  the  laterals  welt  in  band,  but  not  very  closely  pinched 
where  the  old  leaves  are  not  in  a  healthy  state,  and  have  a  sharp  eye  on 
red  spider,  applying  a  little  sulphur  to  the  pipes;  vapourising  with  nicotine 
essence  or  fumigating  with  tobacco  paper  for  aphides  and  thrips,  while 
for  canker  rub  quicklime  into  the  affected  parts,  repeating  as  neces¬ 
sary.  If  cracking  occurs  cut  the  lateral  about  half  through  a  little  below 
the  fruit.  It  will  check  the  flow  of  sap  and  afford  some  relief  if  accom¬ 
panied  by  a  circulation  of  air  constantly.  But  the  chief  cause  of  cracking 
is  stunted  growth  in  the  early  stages  of  swelling  and  when  nearing  ripen¬ 
ing,  a  moist  soil  and  a  close  moist  atmosphere  causing  the  deposition  of 
moisture  on  the  fruit  during  the  night.  Ventilate  freely,  and  keep  the 
air  moderately  dry  by  a  little  ventilation  constantly  as  a  preventive  of 
canker  and  cracking. 
Latest  Melons. — The  plants  now  are  well  up  the  trellis  and  showing 
fruit  blossoms  ;  these  should  be  fertilised  daily,  keeping  the  atmosphere 
rather  dry,  a  little  ventilation  being  given  at  night  so  as  to  insure  a  cir¬ 
culation  of  air  and  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  upon  the  blossoms. 
.Stop  the  shoots  at  the  time  of  impi-egnation  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit. 
As  soon  as  a  sufficient  number  of  fruits  are  set  on  a  plant,  remove  all 
staminate  and  pistillate  flowers,  reducing  the  fruit  to  three  or  four  on  a 
plant,  or  according  to  their  vigour.  Earth  up  the  plants  after  the  fruit 
is  fairly  swelling,  and  be  careful  in  syringing  the  foliage,  only  using  it  on 
bright  afternoons,  but  maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by 
damping  in  the  morning  and  afternoon.  Be  careful  not  to  give  too  much 
w’ater,  but  encourage  healthy  root  action  by  moderate  moisture  in  the 
soil.  IMaintain  the  temperature  at  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  80°  to  90°  from 
sun  heat,  with  65°  to  70°  at  night. 
Melons  in  frames  and  pits  will  not  require  further  damping  over  the 
foliage,  and  should  only  have  sufficient  moisture  in  the  soil  to  preserve 
the  plants  in  health,  keeping  the  foliage  thin,  and  the  fruit  well  raised 
above  it  on  flower  pots,  each  fruit  resting  on  a  piece  of  slate.  Apply  good 
lining  for  affording  the  requisite  heat  to  finish  the  fruit  pi’operly,  and 
maintain  a  dry  atmosphere  with  free  ventilation.  Damp  ruins  Melons  in 
frames  late  in  the  season. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — Eunners  not  over  early  rooted  on  account  of 
the  dry  weather  may  now  be  placed  in  5  or  G-inch  pots,  and  getting 
well  hold  of  the  soil  and  given  due  exposure  in  the  autumn,  the  plants 
will  produce  some  good  fruit  in  April  and  IMay,  though  not  so  plentifully 
and  large  as  those  potted  eai’lier.  For  introducing  to  heat  in  .lanuary 
and  February  we  have  found  them  excellent,  especially  Noble,  Viconitesse 
Ilericart  de  Thury,  Eoyal  Sovereign,  Sir  .Toseph  Paxton,  Lucas,  Gunton 
Park  and  British  Queen. 
Plants  potted  some  time  ago  should  be  examined  and  if  making  side 
buds  too  numerously,  they,  where  fine  fruits  are  desired,  should  be 
removed  with  a  piece  of  hard  wood,  so  as  to  throw  the  vigour  into  the 
central  crown.  If  the  plants  grow  vigorously  liquid  manure  will  not  be 
required,  but  those  that  are  weakly  should  have  supplies  of  it  twice  a 
week.  Eemove  all  runners  as  they  appear,  and  loosen  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  especially  round  the  sides  of  the  pots,  so  as  to  secure  the  more 
thorough  and  even  moistening  of  the  ball.  As  the  plants  grow  set  the 
pots  wide  apart.  _  If  red  spider  attaek  the  plants  hold  each  inverted  with 
one  hand,  and  -with  the  other  dust  the  under  sides  of  the  leaves  with  a 
mixture  of  air-slaked  chalk  lime,  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  soot  in  equal 
parts,  finely  sifted  and  applied  by  means  of  a  dredger. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Ageratums  and  Heliotropes.— Sowing  seed  in  the  spring  is  the  best 
way  to  raise  Ageratum  plants.  Those  obtained  from  cuttings  are,  how¬ 
ever,  the  most  compact,  and,  if  desirable,  a  stock  might  yet  be  propagated 
with  a  view  to  having  abundance  of  cuttings  next  spring.  Select  soft, 
flowerless  tops  from  the  best  plants,  and  dibble  them  thinly  in  5-inch  pots, 
placing  in  gentle  heat.  Old  plants  of  both  Ageratums  and  Heliotropes 
often  fail  to  lift  well,  but  if  a  number  of  the  latter  have  been  kept  for 
flowering  in  pots  during  the  autumn  and  winter,  these  will  produce 
abundance  of  cuttings  next  spring.  Failing  these  root  a  good  number  of 
tops  as  advised  in  the  case  of  Ageratums. 
Verbenas. — There  is  no  lack  of  soft  clean  cuttings  on  Vei’benas,  and 
abundance  of  these  must,  if  not  already  done,  be  taken  off  and  rooted. 
It  is  the  young  flowerless  shoots  that  should  be  preferred,  and  these  ought 
to  be  shortened  to  the  third  joint,  dibbling  them  before  they  flag  badly 
in  well  drained  5-inch  pots  filied  with  a  mixture  of  fresh  loam,  leaf  soil, 
and  sand.  A  partially  exhausted  hotbed  is  the  best  place  to  root  them 
on,^  and  they  should  be  kept  close,  shaded  from  bright  sunshine,  and 
moist  till  rooted.  Much  dry  heat  ruins  either  cirttings  or  well  rooted 
plants. 
Zonal  Pelargoniums. — If  cuttings  are  soft  and  sappy  they  arc  some¬ 
what  difficult  to  root  and  save.  The  old-fashioned  plan  of  preparing 
the  cuttings  for  pots  and  pans,  and  then  spreading  them  out  in  the 
sunshine  to  flag  and  dry  for  a  whole  day  or  two,  gets  rid  of  much  super¬ 
fluous  moisture,  and  has  much  to  recommend  it.  Late  rooted  cuttings  can  be 
wintered  most  surely  in  4-inch  or  slightly  larger  pots,  as  these  can  be 
stored  thickly  on  shelves  in  cool  dry  houses.  In  these  the  cuttings  may 
be  dibbled  in  quite  thickly,  giving  them  more  room  in  the  spring.  At 
this  late  date  they  must  not  be  exposed  to  showery  weather  and  heavy 
fogs  and  dew,  but  should  have  the  benefit  of  glazed  coverings,  and  all  the 
light,  air,  and  sunshine  possible.  No  water  ought  to  be  given  at  first,  and 
only  enough  later  to  keep  the  stems  from  shrivelling  badly. 
Iresines,  Coleuses,  and  Alternantheras. — Rooted  cuttings  are  pre¬ 
ferable  to  lifted  old  plants,  even  when  the  latter  recover  well  from  the 
check.  The  first  frost  will  cripple  these  delicate  bedding  plants,  and  no 
time,  therefore,  should  be  lost  in  rooting  a  number  of  young  tops.  Use 
5-inch  pots  well  drained  and  light  soil.  Place  six  cuttings  in  each  pot 
and  root  them  in  heat.  All  are  liable  to  damp  wholesale,  and  the  frames 
or  glass  covering  them  will  require  to  be  well  dried  every  morning. 
Fuchsias. — These  are  now  very  popular  as  bedding  plants  and  also 
for  plunging  separately  on  the  turf.  If  young  flowerless  shoots  can  be 
had,  these  might  be  rooted  in  pots  or  pans  in  heat,  much  as  advised  in 
the  case  of  Verbenas.  Instead  of  wintering  them  in  the  cutting  pots  the 
better  plan  would  be  to  pot  them  separately,  and  keep  them  steadily 
growing  all  through  the  winter.  They  sometimes  make  good  pyramids 
without  any  pinching  other  than  stopping  the  side  shoots,  but  more  often 
they  require  to  be  stopped  frequently  in  order  to  form  a  good  bottom, 
after  which  a  strong  central  leader  may  be  trained  to  a  stake,  this  and  the 
side  shoots  being  pinched  back  as  often  as  flowering  threatens.  A  moist 
gentle  heat  suits  Fuchsias,  and  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  badly 
root-bound  prior  to  shifting  into  larger  sizes. 
Narcissi  and  Daffodils. — These  are  rightly  extremely  popular,  and  no 
class  of  bulbous  flowered  plants  better  repays  for  the  little  trouble  neces¬ 
sary  to  take  with  them.  The  commoner  kinds,  notably  of  the  Polyanthus 
Narcissus  intended  for  the  flower  beds,  must  perforce  be  kept  out  of  the 
ground  some  time  longer,  but  there  should  be  no  further  delay  in  the  case 
of  the  choicer  sections.  In  many  positions  the  latter  succeed  well  when 
not  disturbed  oftener  than  every  third  year,  but  some  few  of  the  delicate 
species  require  to  be  moved  more  frequently.  If  single  bulbs  of  rare  or 
expensive  varieties  are  planted  from  4  inches  to  5  inches  deep  in  good 
loamy  soil  they  will  flower  next  spring,  and  also  form  several  offsets, 
which  will  attain  a  flowering  size  in  the  course  of  two  seasons,  always 
provided  they  are  not  detached  from  the  parent  bulb  too  quickly.  The 
present  is  also  a  good  time  for  lifting,  sorting,  and  replanting  any 
species  that  last  season  gave  signs  of  either  failing  health  or  of  being 
unduly  crowded.  Plant  all  the  medium-sized  to  large  bulbs  either  in 
lines  or  thin  groups  Avhere  they  will  be  best  seen,  and  they  are  suitable 
plants  for  fruit  borders  alongside  garden  walks,  and  the  smaller  offsets  in 
nursery  beds.  The  common  Daffodils  and  Pheasant-eye  Narcissi  may 
also  now  be  procured  for  growing  in  shrubberies,  alongside  woodland 
walks,  and  such  like.  They  are  well  adapted  for  planting  under  the 
turf  in  patches  or  singly,  as  they  flower  and  die  down  again  before  it  is 
necessary  to  mow  the  grass. 
Alstromerias. — There  would  be  fewer  failures  with  these  if  more 
judgment  were  exercised  in  the  selection  of  sites.  They  fail  in  cold  sites 
and  heavy  soil,  and  succeed  admirably  when  planted  in  the  narrow  warm 
borders  often  formed  close  up  to  sunny  house  fronts.  Plant  rather 
deeply  and  do  not  disturb  again  for  many  years.  Under  this  treatment 
they  will  increase  rapidly  and  flower  grandly  every  season. 
Irises. — The  bulbous  rooted  species  of  these  beautiful  plants  ought 
to  be  taken  up,  divided,  and  replanted  every  second  or  third  season. 
They  all  succeed  well  in  a  fresh,  moderately  rich,  and  not  too  heavy  loamy 
soil,  this  being  worked  to  a  good  depth.  Plant  from  6  to  8  inches  apart 
and  4  inches  to  5  inches  deep,  and  surface  the  beds  with  Pansies,  Violas, 
Alpine  Auriculas,  or  other  plants  that  will  not  take  more  than  their 
share  of  food  and  moisture  out  of  the  soil.  Plant  new  bulbs  as  soon  as 
they  can  be  had. 
Various. — Crocuses  permanently  planted  in  borders  should  be  lifted, 
divided,  and  replanted  every  third  or  fourth  autumn.  If  returned  to  the 
same  site  give  a  change  of  soil,  and  always  bury  the  bulbs  4  inches  deep. 
Snowdrops  can  be  lifted,  separated  into  patches,  and  replanted  without 
detriment  to  their  flowering  next  season.  They  move  best  after  fresh 
roots  have  been  formed.  Either  these  or  newly  purchased  bulbs  should 
be  buried  2  inches  deep.  During  this  month  plant  Cyclamen  Coum  and 
C.  europflBum.  These  are  rockwork  plants,  and  should  have  a  sheltered 
position  and  light  sandy  soil  to  grow  in.  They  are  most  effective  in 
groups  of  threes.  Triteleia  uniflora  flowers  very  early  and  grandly  at 
the  foot  of  sunny  fences  or  walls,  and  when  in  bloom  is  only  slightly 
checked  by  severe  frosts.  Plant  in  groups  of  nine  or  more  bulbs,  and 
2  inches  deep.  Treat  Jonquils  similarly  to  Narcissi. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Cauliflowers.— Caterpillars  are  very  plentiful  this  season,  and  unless 
well  looked  after  they  soon  spoil  Cauliflowers.  Tying  up  the  leaves 
closely  over  the  centres  soon  after  the  hearts  commence  forming 
excludes  butterflies,  and  leads  to  the  perfect  blanching  of  hearts. 
Those  who  desire  extra  large  Cauliflowers  should  apply  liquid 
manure  to  the  roots  freely  directly  they  commence  hearting-in. 
With  the  introduction  of  quick  maturing  varieties  there  has  been  less 
need  to  sow  seed  in  the  autumn  with  a  view  to  having  strong  plants  for 
hand-lights  or  frames  than  formerly.  There  is  yet  much  to  be  said  in 
favour  of  the  practice.  Sow  seexls  now,  or  not  later  than  the  first  week 
