236 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  9,  1897. 
There  is  another  cause,  though,  which  was  unknown  in  the  higher 
class  gardens  years  back,  but  which  is  increasing  slowly  but  surely  every 
year,  and  that  is,  the  commercial  sjurit  which  has  entered  into 
nearly  all  private  establishments,  great  and  small.  When  a  nobleman 
opens  an  emporium  in  one  of  the  principal  streets  in  London,  and  sends 
to  it  the  best  products  of  the  garden,  the  farm,  the  dairy  of  his  estate, 
and  makes  no  secret  of  it,  and  he  only  one  of  many  who  trade  in  one 
way  or  other,  we  may  well  say  that  market  gardening  has  become  the 
trade  of  the  aristocracy.  When  this  shop  supply  has  to  be  kept  up 
day  by  day,  and  week  by  week  the  year  through,  then  the  gardening 
at  that  establishment  has  to  go  on  quick,  up-to-date  lines.  More 
orchards  of  the  new,  attractive,  and  quick  bearing  Apples,  Pears, 
Plums,  and  Cherries  are  planted,  larger  breadths  of  land  laid  down  for 
the  bush  fruits,  and  more  and  larger  areas  of  the  garden,  and  some¬ 
times  farm  land,  devoted  to  Strawberries.  Everything  is  arranged  to 
bring  in  the  “nimble  ninepence”  and  the  “slow  shilling”  crops, 
including  the  wall  trees,  have  to  get  what  attention  they  can. 
This  is  enough  to  make  the  hair  stand  on  end  of  the  old  gardener 
who  has  been  accustomed  to  take  things  calmly,  to  have  time  for 
everything,  and  to  distribute  what  he  had  of  overplus  to  those  on  the 
estate,  who  would  be  benefited  thereby.  Oh,  yes  !  “  the  old  order 
changeth.”  Now  all  is  push  and  “  go,”  and  jobs  that  used  to  be  done 
steadily  by  the  workman  are  very  often  pushed  on,  and  the  workman 
is  unceremoniously  told  that,  “  It’ll  do,”  and  sent  on  to  the  job. 
Well,  gardeners  who  are  wise  will  recognise  this  state  of  things,  and 
adapt  themselves  to  them  as  well  as  they  can,  and  even  we  old  fogies 
must  bend  to  circumstances,  and  adapt  ourselves  to  them.  It  is  no 
use  moaning  and  lamenting  over  past  days.  We  may  groan  over  our 
neglected  wall  trees,  which  have  been  our  hobby  for  many,  and  many 
a  year,  and  sigh  over  the  decadence  of  wall  tree  fruit  tree  growing,  but 
cui  bono  ? 
To  my  mind  these  are  the  strongly  operating  causes,  and  I  send 
them  in  as  my  vote  or  opinion  to  account  for  the  decadence  of  wall 
fruit  tree  culture. — An  Old  Pkovincial. 
LIFTING  AND  POTTING  CALLAS. 
•  The  Callas  (Arum  Lilies)  which  have  been  planted  out  in  the 
open  ground  should  now  be  lifted  and  potted,  so  that  the  plants  may 
have  time  to  become  established  before  the  advent  of  frosty  nights 
deinaiids  that  the  shelter  of  glass  be  afforded  them.  The  size  of  the 
j)ot  the  plants  retpiire  will  depend  on  their  strength,  and  whether  a 
number  are  growing  together,  or  only  a  single  crown.  Fairly  strong 
anil  vigorous  single  plants  may  be  placed  in  7  or  8-inch  pots.  Two 
plants,  if  strong  and  well  furnished  with  roots,  cannot  be  easily  accom- 
modated  in  a  less  size  than  a  9-inch  pot,  unless  the  roots  are  freely 
reduced  to  lit  a  smaller  pot.  Larger  specimens  may  be  made  by 
employing  clumps  with  an  increased  number  ol  plants,  or  placing 
smaller  clumps  together  to  till  the  pot.  Provided  the  plants  were  given 
good  material  when  planted  in  the  open  in  early  summer,  they  may  be 
lilted  with  the  soil  adhering  to  the  roots,  only  sufficient  of  the  latter 
being  cut  off,  along  with  the  slicing  of  the  soil,  to  make  the  ball  fit 
the  pots. 
Some  check  may  be  afforded  to  the  rapid  growth  of  the  plants  pre¬ 
vious  to  lifting  by  running  a  sharp  spade  round  them  about  a  week  in 
advance  of  potting.  They  may  need  the  roots  still  further  reducing 
at  the  time  of  lifiing,  but  the  check  will  be  less  sudden  and  severe. 
It  is  an  advantage  to  have  the  roots  and  soil  moist,  though  not  in 
a  wet  mortary  state.  To  insure  a  moist  condition  water  copiously  the 
day  before  lifting.  This,  however,  would  be  unnecessary  if  the 
operation  is  carried  out  on  the  first  dry  day  after  a  good  downfall  of 
rain. 
The  pots  required  ought  to  be  clean,  moderately  drained,  and  in 
readiness  to  be  occupied  as  the  plants  are  lifted  and  prepared.  Over 
the  drainage  of  crocks  consisting  of  two  large  pieces  and  a  few 
smaller,  place  a  layer  of  flaky  manure,  scattering  upon  that  a  dusting 
of  soot.  Very  little  jrrejiared  compost  will  be  required,  but  some 
may  be  conveniently  at  hand  to  till  up  spaces  when  potting.  Loam, 
with  one-fourth  decayed  manure  and  a  little  sand,  forms  a  suitable 
mixture. 
When  each  plant  is  lifted  with  the  spade  chop  round  it  to  the 
approximate  size  of  the  pot  and  cut  off  the  base  to  the  necessary 
depth.  Carry  out  the  final  reductinii  of  the  roots  with  a  sharp 
table  knife,  reducing  the  ball  so  that  it  may  be  sunk  into  the 
pot  just  about  level  with  the  rim.  Then,  by  gently  jarring  the  pot 
on  firm  but  yielding  ground,  the  whole  may  be  sunk  low  enough  to 
afford  room  below  the  rim  for  the  supply  of  water.  Any  spaces  left 
may  be  filled  in  with  compost. 
After  potting  stand  the  plants  in  the  shade,  giving  a  good  soaking 
of  water.  Syringe  freely  every  dry  day,  and  when  established  bring 
out  the  plants  to  a  sunny  and  open  position,  where  they  can  remain 
until  the  period  of  housing  for  the  winter. — E.  I).  S. 
HOME-MADE  WINES. 
{Concluded  from  page  214.) 
Haisin  Wine. 
When  we  consider  that  raisin.s  are  merely  Grapes  deprived  of 
their  water  by  evaporation  in  the  sun,  we  have  no  difficulty  in  seeing 
how  well  they  are  adapted  for  wine  making.  The  best  for  this  ])urpose 
are  Valencias,  and,  if  these  cannot  be  had,  the  next  best  are  Malagas. 
Before  using  them  the  raisins  must  ail  be  separated  from  the  stalks. 
To  make  an  18-gallon  cask  of  wine,  20  gallons  of  must  has  to  be 
provided,  and  6  lbs.  of  the  picked  raisins  must  be  added  to  each  gallon  of 
water,  so  that  it  will  require  120  lbs.  of  raisins  to  make  the  20  gallons. 
After  the  raisins  are  stripped  from  their  stalks  they  are  to  be  put 
into  an  infusing  cask,  with  20  gallons  of  soft  water,  heated  to  the 
temperature  of  90°,  and  then  the  whole  is  to  be  well  stirred.  The 
stirring  and  bruising  of  the  fruit  in  the  infusing  cask  is  to  be  done 
three  times  a  day  for  eighteen  days,  and  a  sample  of  the  must  is  to- 
be  taken  out  morning  and  evening  for  the  purpose  of  being  examined  by 
the  saccharometer,  and  the  gravity  noted.  As  soon  as  the  saccharometer 
indicates  a  gravity  of  80,  the  must  is  to  be  drained  off  from  the 
infusing  cask  and  strained  through  a  sieve  into  the  feimenting  tub, 
the  fruit  being  well  pressed  with  the  hands  and  thrown  into  another 
vessel  ready  to  receive  it.  ffhe  20  gallons  of  must,  which  will  now 
indicate  a  gravity  of  80  or  90,  is  to  be  brought  up  to  the  standard  of 
135  by  the  addition  of  sugar,  which  will  be  a  little  over  1^  lb.  for  each 
gallon,  and  also  6  ozs.  of  argol. 
As  the  making  of  this  wine  takes  place  in  the  winter,  the  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  apartment  where  it  is  conducted  should  not  be  less  than 
55°.  The  must  is  to  be  well  stirred  every  morning,  and  if  all  goes 
well  the  gravity  will  probably  i'all  in  the  course  of  a  week  to  between 
90  and  100,  but  this  will  greatly  depend  on  the  warmth  of  the 
weather.  When  the  must  has  attained  this  gravity,  it  is  to  be  put 
into  casks  for  the  final  fermentation,  and  the  casks  ought  to  be  washed 
out  with  boiling  water,  and  the  must  put  in  while  they  are  warm.  If 
fermentation  through  this  has  been  checked  and  the  must  remains  in 
a  dormant  state,  put  in  three  table-spoonfuls  of  good  thick  brewers’ 
yeast,  mixed  with  a  quart  of  the  must,  heated  to  a  temperature  of 
85°.  The  heated  must  and  yeast  are  then  to  be  put  in  a  vessel  capable  of 
containing  two  quarts,  as  it  will  expand.  In  about  an  hour  after  this 
expansion  will  take  place,  and  be  accompanied  by  an  early  fermenta- 
tation.  It  is  then  to  be  put  into  the  18-gallon  cask,  which  is  to  be  kept 
full  to  the  bunghole  so  long  as  the  vinous  fermentation  lasts,  and  after¬ 
wards  bunged  up. 
To  Clabify  Wine. 
If  the  wine  be  good  and  rich  but  not  bright  it  may  be  fined  by  any 
of  the  following  methods  :  — 
Milk  Fining. — This  is  only  used  for  white  wine,  as  it  would 
injure  the  colour  of  red  wine.  The  quantity  to  be  used  is  1  pint  of 
sGmmed  milk  to  every  5  or  6  gallons  of  wine.  Four  upon  the  milk 
some  of  the  wine  drawn  I'rom  the  cask,  mix  it  well  by  stirring  with  a 
stick,  then  pour  it  into  the  cask  ;  rouse  it  up  well  with  a  stick, 
without  disturbing  any  dregs  there  may  be  at  the  bottom.  In  three 
or  four  days  it  will  be  fine,  and  must  be  bottled  off  as  soon  as  possible. 
Wine  is  always  spoiled  by  leaving  it  long  in  contact  with  the  fining, 
whatever  the  fining  may  consist  of.  Milk  fining  is  preferred  when 
the  wine  is  harsh  and  has  acquired  a  dark  stain,  which  milk 
removes. 
Isinglass  Fining. — This  fining  is  preferable  to  milk  for  general 
use,  and  is  applicable  to  red  as  well  as  white  wines.  The  best  method 
to  pursue  is  as  follows  : — For  a  hogshead  of  wine  take  a  quart  of  warm, 
water  in  a  large  jug,  and  put  to  it  1  oz.  of  isinglass  broken  small ; 
add  to  this  1  pint  of  white  wine  if  for  general  use,  or  some  of  that 
which  is  to  be  fined  ;  stir  the  whole  up  three  tu-  four  times  before  the 
water  is  cold ;  let  it  remain  two  or  three  hours,  or  if  not  dissolved, 
two  or  three  days — the  time  is  immaterial,  but  it  should  be  quite  cold 
and  quite  dissolved  before  going  further— now  add  a  pint  more  wine  ; 
stir  the  whole  up  well,  and  strain  it  through  fine  linen.  This  is  wine 
fining,  as  sold  by  the  makers  in  wine  countries,  and  1  pint  of  it  is 
sufficient  for  15  gallons  of  wine. 
According  lo  the  size  of  your  cask,  take  so  man}’  pints  of  this 
fining  ;  mix  more  wine  with  it,  which  will  perhaps  occasion  a  fioccu- 
lent  deposit ;  this  must  not  be  lost,  but  the  whole  tabbed  through 
the  hair  or  wire  sieve,  or,  still  better,  milk  strainer.  The  fining  will 
be  ready  now  to  ^'lut  into  the  cask  ;  and  the  reason  of  diluting  it  first 
is,  that  if  you  put  it  in  too  strong  it  coagulates  immediately  and  falls 
down  in  lumps,  rather  than  in  the  fine  particles  which  are  required. 
Stir  the  whole  up  well  after  the  diluted  fining  is  poured  in,  bung  the 
cask  down  tightly,  let  it  stand  till  the  wine  is  fine,  which  will  be 
from  three  or  four  days  to  a  week.  Bottle  off  without  disturbing  the 
lees  or  sediment. 
Figg  Fining. — For  English  home-made  wines  and  for  the  red 
wines  of  France,  the  white  of  an  egg  is  generally  employed.  The 
white  of  seven  eggs  is  sufficient  for  a  hogshead  of  wine,  and  to  employ 
