240 
JOlJRS\i1^  OF  HOH'iiCULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  QARDENER. 
September  9,  1897. 
cooling,  causes  such  coldness  that  the  dew  freezes,  and  a  whole  year’s 
work  may  be  blasted.  These  “frosts”  fall  perpendicularly,  and  thus  we 
need  only  to  thinst  a  dried  Spruce  or  Yew  hough  below  the  coping,  or 
have  glass  protectors  sloping  out  a  foot  from  the  wall  top,  so  as  to  shield  all 
beneath  it.  It  would  be  inconvenient  for  Mr.  Murphy,  perhaps,  to  have 
mats  for  his  trees,  but  surely  he  might  contrive  to  fix  an  overhanging 
ledge,  or  the  means  for  securing  boughs,  canvas,  or  old  sheets  of  any 
suitable  material. 
To  protect  standard  or  espalier  trees,  a  framework,  over  which  some 
light  material  can  be  stretched,  is  the  only  true  and  safe  method  ;  the 
standard  trees  placed  perpendicularly,  a  long  pole  through  the  middle 
part  of  the  tree,  and  have  others,  plus  covering,  to  be  in  readiness  on 
emergency.  Poles,  or  slender  bars  placed  X  fashion  over  the  trellis,  with  a 
horizontal  bar  running  in  line  with,  and  resting  on,  their  small  top  angle, 
securing  these  from  collapse,  afford  a  frame  for  covering,  and  keep  the 
material  free  from  the  blossom,  which  might  be  spoilt  unless  the  pro¬ 
tected  cover  be  held  off. 
You  cannot  get  your  fruit  without  less  trouble,  unless  you  start  and 
plant  cordons  along  the  edge  of  your  walks,  forming  a  series  of  arches 
with  them  by  bending  down  the  points.  Splendid  results  have  been 
obtained  from  this  simple  plan.  Now  as  to  watering.  It  is  essential 
that  the  buds  be  “plumped  up”  before  the  season’s  vigour  ceases. 
Water  and  mulch  so  as  to  secure  stoutness  in  wood  and  bud,  yet  reckon 
to  have  the  wood  properly  ripened.  A  dry  autumn  is  a  desideratum. 
Mr.  W.  J.  Murphy  had  blossoms  this  year,  therefore  last  year  cannot  be 
blamed  much.  Proper  nourishment  with  pi'otection  this  spring  would 
have  secured  “fruits  in  their  season.”  Head  “H.  D.’s”  article  on 
“Watering  Wall  Trees,”  page  139,  August  12th.  Have  no  rank  roots 
to  your  trees  ;  let  them  be  fibrous.  Keep  the  branches  well  apart,  and 
with  spur-bearing  trees  attend  to  ])inching  ;  thin-out  young  shoots  early 
on  other  trees.  Never  allow  insects  or  disease  to  harm  your  trees. 
Water,  mulch,  and  protect  when  needed  ;  then  and  not  till  then,  you  will 
have  done  your  duty.— .1.  II.  D. 
THE  FUNGI  OF  THE  WHEKIN. 
The  Wrekin,  which  is  denominated  the  oldest  mountain  in  England, 
and  which  is  such  a  conspicuous  headland  as  seen  from  the  railway 
running  through  Wellington  in  Shropshire,  near  which  town  it  is  situated, 
is  a  famous  place  for  fungi,  the  woods  which  surround  its  base  and  sides 
literally  teeming  with  them,  especially  during  the  months  of  September 
and  October.  Botanists  and  ordinary  visitors  alike  who  visit  the  famous 
Salopian  hill  in  the  course  of  their  rambles  around  cannot  fail  to  be  im¬ 
pressed  with  what  is  well  termed  the  mycological  flora  of  the  neighbour¬ 
hood. 
We  all  know  now,  or  ought  to  at  least,  that  in  addition  to  the  ordinary 
field  Mushroom  which  finds  such  general  favour,  there  are  great  numbers 
besides  which  afford  capital  eating.  The  woods  around  the  Wrekin  are 
in  most  seasons  most  prolific  in  the  production,  both  specifically  and 
numerically,  of  these  interesting,  and  in  many  cases  extremely  curious, 
forms  of  vegetable  life. 
Many  species  of  Polypori  are  to  be  found  growing  out  of  the  trunks  of 
the  Larch  and  Pine  trees  and  their  roots,  or  on  the  patches  where  the 
wood  has  been  burnt  for  charcoal,  such  as  P.  squamosus,  P.  rufescens, 
P.  perennis,  P.  chionens,  the  beautiful  P.  frondosus,  whilst  in  many  places 
the  edible  Hydnum  repandum  abounds,  with  its  awl  shaped  spines  on  its 
lower  surface.  The  very  curious  H.  gelantinosum  has  also  been  found  at 
times  in  old  saw  pits  and  in  similar  places.  The  large  red  copper  Agaric, 
Amanita  muscaria,  and  A.  phalloides  are  unfortunately  rather  common. 
They  are  both  poisonous,  hence  it  will  be  seen  the  selection  of  fungi  is  no 
easy  matter  for  an  amateur,  who,  if  not  sure  of  what  he  is  gathering,  had 
better  inquire  from  one  better  versed  in  the  knowledge  than  himself,  and 
to  avert  unconscious  disaster.  Singular  to  say  Amanita  rubescens, 
another  variety  of  the  same  species,  is  perfectly  wholesome. 
Flammella  carbonaria,  as  might  be  inferred  from  its  name,  is  found 
where  there  is  charcoal.  Tricbiloma  imbricatus,  T.  rutilans,  T.  sapo- 
naceus,  and  T.  terrens  are  everywhere  to  be  seen.  Chitocyte  giganteus, 
a  favourite  edible,  grows  in  rings  in  many  places  with  several  other 
species  of  the  same  genus.  Lactarius  deliciosus  is  found  mainly  under 
Fir  trees,  and,  as  its  name  implies,  is  good  eating.  The  Boleti  are 
numerous.  Amongst  them  B.  luteus,  B.  tiavus,  B.  edulis,  B.  elegans, 
B.  luridus,  and  B.  scaber,  a  pretty  fair  variety. 
The  edible  Cantherellus  cibarius  is  also  met  with  in  some  spots,  but 
is  by  no  means  common.  Near  the  top  amidst  the  moss  we  come 
across  Hygrophorus  Houghtoni  (named  after  the  Rev.  W.  Houghton, 
F.L.S.,  who  has  written  much  about  the  district  of  the  Wrekin),  the  lovely 
golden  yellow  Peziza  aurantiaca  is  also  to  be  seen.  The  curious  but 
nasty  smelling  Stinkhorn  (Phallus  impudicus)  is  rather  common,  whilst 
the  equally  curious  but  not  so  repellant  in  odour  Cynophallus 
caninus,  which  is  generally  held  to  be  a  rare  kind,  grows  in  the  grass 
amongst  the  Larch  trees  and  the  Oaks  in  the  large  fields  bordering  on  the 
next  side  of  the  mountain. 
Several  other  species  of  Hygrophori  are  also  to  be  found  in  the 
same  locality,  amongst  them  H.  coccineus,  H.  pratensis,  H.  psittacinus, 
H.  conicus,  H.  calyptraeformis,  H.  puniceus  ;  whilst  in  the  adjoining 
woods  we  meet  with  H.  corsus,  with  its  strong  goat-like  odour,  by  no 
means  pleasant.  These  woods  are  a  rare  hunting  ground  for  the 
Mushroom  hunter.  It  is  impossible  to  enumerate  a  tithe  of  the  species 
that  are  there  to  be  found,  but  the  above  selection  will  serve  to  show  that 
the  woods  of  the  Wrekin  are  full  of  rich  treasures  for  the  botanist  and 
others.— Wm.  Norman  Brown. 
KALOSANTHE.S  COCOINEA. 
Taking  into  consideration  all  the  good  qualities  possessed  by  this 
beautiful,  sweet-scented  greenhouse  plant,  it  is  surprising  that  it  is  not 
more  frequently  met  with  in  a  condition  creditable  to  the  cultivator. 
Under  good  cultivation  its  habit  is  close  and  compact,  producing  a 
profusion  of  bright  flowers  which  contrast  well  with  the  deep  green 
foliage.  Although  it  is  of  too  stiff  a  character  to  be  useful  for  cutting 
(an  indispensable  quality  with  many),  still,  when  it  is  grouped  with  other 
plants  in  the  conservatory,  or  associated  with  Ferns  and  foliage  plants 
for  house  decoration,  it  is  generally  admired. 
The  ease  with  which  it  is  propagated,  the  short  time  required  to  grow 
it  to  a  serviceable  size,  and  its  comparative  immunity  from  the  attacks  of 
insects,  ought  to  commend  it  to  everyone. 
1  v\dll  give  a  few  hints  on  the  culture  of  this  beautiful  old-fashioned 
plant,  and  first  as  to  propagation.  This  is  too  often  recommended  to  be 
done  in  August.  It  roots  freely  at  any  season,  but  I  think  the  best  time 
is  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  middle  of  May,  or  as  soon  as 
convenient  after  the  bloom  is  visible  in  the  tips  of  the  shoots.  Select 
shoots  that  have  failed  to  bloom,  and  take  them  oS  close  to  the  old 
wood.  Trim  a  few  of  the  bottom  leaves  off  and  insert  them  singly  into 
thumb  pots,  or  five  in  a  large  60.  Use  a  mixture  of  fibry  loam  and 
peat,  or  loam  and  leaf  soil,  with  a  good  dash  of  sharp  sand.  Water  well, 
and  place  in  a  warm  moist  atmosphere  for  about  three  weeks,  when  they 
will  be  rooted  sufficiently  to  be  removed  to  cooler  quarters — a  shelf  near 
the  glass  in  a  greenhouse,  where  they  may  remain  till  they  fill  their  pots 
with  roots. 
About  the  beginning  of  June  the  young  plants  should  be  shifted  into 
a  size  larger  pots,  the  single  plants  into  d^-inch,  and  those  with  fivt 
cuttings  into  5-inch  pots,  using  the  same  compost,  but  in  a  rougher  state, 
and  with  less  sand  in  it.  Drain  the  pots  well,  and  place  a  little  moss 
over  the  crocks  to  keep  them  clear  of  soil.  The  plants  may  then  be 
placed  in  a  close  frame  till  they  have  well  rooted  into  the  fresh  soil,  then 
gradually  harden.  After  this  our  practice  is  to  plunge  them  out  in 
coal  ashes,  giving  them  exactly  the  same  treatment  as  winter-flowering 
Pelargoniums.  Those,  however,  who  have  a  very  heavy  rainfall  to 
contend  with  should  have  them  in  frames,  or  a  sash  placed  over  them 
to  throw  off  the  heavy  showers,  exposing  fully  in  dry  weather.  As  soon 
as  required  each  plant  should  have  a  small  stick  to  it,  to  keep  it  upright 
and  prevent  its  being  broken. 
Most  writers  on  the  Kalosanthes  recommend  the  young  shoots  to  be 
pinched.  I  have  proved  this  to  be  quite  unnecessary  ;  in  fact,  it  tends 
to  make  a  rather  stiff  plant,  more  formal  than  it  would  be  if  left  to  its 
natural  growth.  Allow  the  plants  that  have  been  potted  singly  to  grow 
without  stopping.  Those  intended  for  larger  plants,  the  four  plants 
round  the  outside  of  the  pot,  may  be  stopped  early  in  July,  but 
train  the  centre  plant  to  a  stick  without  stopping.  They  will  thus 
produce  free,  natural  pyramids,  clothed  with  flowers  to  the  edge  of 
the  pots. 
Excepting  that  they  should  be  carefully  watered,  but  little  attention 
is  necessary  till  they  are  housed  for  the  winter  at  the  end  of  September 
or  beginning  of  October.  They  should  then  be  placed  on  shelves  near 
the  glass,  where  they  will  be  cool  and  have  plenty  of  air.  They  will 
continue  growing,  and  should  by  no  means  be  stinted  for  water,  as  is 
advised  by  some  writers.  Of  course,  as  the  days  shorten  less  water  is 
required  as  a  natural  consequence,  but  this  does  not  mean  that  the  soil  is 
to  be  allowed  to  get  dry,  for  the  roots  are  very  active  during  the  autumn 
months,  and  should  be  encouraged.  Soon  after  the  turn  of  the  year — 
say  the  middle  of  January — the  plants  should  be  shifted  into  their 
flowering  pots.  The  single  plants  may  be  potted  into  5  or  6-inch  pots, 
and  the  others  into  7  or  8*-inch.  The  plants  make  rapid  progress  during 
February  and  March,  They  should  be  regularly  attended  to  with  water, 
and  when  the  pots  are  well  filled  with  roots,  should  be  assisted  with  a 
little  weak  liquid  manure  twice  a  week. 
By  the  end  of  the  latter  month  the  plants  will  he  showing  blooms, 
when  they  must  be  staked  and  tied.  Stakes  should  be  used  as  sparingly 
as  possible.  One  or  two  to  each  plant  is  generally  sufficient,  the  other 
shoots  being  looped  together  for  support,  something  after  the  style  of 
tying  Phoenocomas  and  hardwooded  Heaths  for  exhibition.  Keep  the 
plants  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible  till  they  come  into  bloom.  They 
will  be  cooler  and  require  less  labour  in  watering  if  turned  out  into 
frames  or  cold  pits  early  in  May,  from  which  they  can  be  transferred  to 
the  conservatory  as  they  come  into  bloom. 
Old  plants  are  generally  considered  useless  as  far  as  blooming  the 
following  season  is  concerned.  One  plant  last  year  bloomed  so  freely 
that  we  had  a  difficulty  in  getting  sufficient  for  this  year’s  stock.  I  was 
thus  induced  to  save  a  few  old  plants  to  furnish  cuttings.  These  were 
allowed  to  become  dry  at  the  roots,  cut  hard  back,  and  after  giving  the 
wounds  time  to  heal  to  prevent  bleeding  were  placed  in  a  brisk  heat. 
They  were  afterwards  placed  outdoors  with  the  others  and  had  the  same 
treatment,  except  that  they  were  shifted  when  they  were  housed  for 
the  winter  into  pots  a  size  larger.  These  have  furnished  us  with 
abundance  of  cuttings,  and,  more  than  we  expected,  a  fair  sprinkling  of 
bloom. 
The  Kalosanthes  is  hardier  than  some  of  our  bedding  plants.  Some 
of  the  above-mentioned  plants  were  outdoors  in  the  open  till  the 
12th  of  November,  and  endured  3°  of  frost  without  showing  the  least 
signs  of  having  been  injured.  It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  those  plants  that  may 
very  easily  be  “  killed  with  kindness.” 
Market  growers,  who  require  flowering  plants  as  quickly  as  possible, 
do  not  follow  this  mode  of  culture  in  every  respect.  Instead  of  rooting 
