266  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  September  i6,  1897. 
-  JvONDOX  Allotments. — In  the  report  for  the  current  year  the 
Small  Holdings  Committee  of  the  London  Council  expresses  regret  that 
another  year  has  passed  without  any  amendment  of  the  law  l)eing  made 
enabling  the  Council  to  provide  allotments  in  the  county  of  I^ondon. 
The  Council,  says  a  contemporary,  is  still  unable  to  let  small  plots  o* 
land  direct  to  tenants,  but  is  forced  to  proceed  under  the  Small  Holdings 
Act,  1892,  under  the  provisions  of  which  the  Council  lets  land  in  plots  of 
«)ver  one  acre  in  extent  to  tenants  who,  by  the  terms  of  their  agree¬ 
ments,  cultivate  a  specified  jiortion  of  their  holdings  and  sublet  the 
remainder  to  approved  sub-tenants.  The  Council  is  desirous  of  acquiring 
legal  power  to  let  plots  of  less  than  one  acre  direct  to  persons  who  wish 
to  take  them.  The  Local  Government  Board  has  issued  orders  con¬ 
ferring  the  powers  of  a  parisli  council  in  regard  to  hiring  land  for 
allotments  upon  the  vestries  of  Charlton  and  Greenwich,  but  the  Com¬ 
mittee  is  of  opinion  that  the  power  only  to  hire  land  scarcely  meets  the 
case,  and  they  hold  that  local  authorities  should  be  authorised  to 
purchase  land  for  the  purpose.  During  the  past  year  the  working  of  the 
Council’s  allotments  at  Millmeads  and  Last  Ham,  and  of  the  small 
holdings  at  Derry  Rise,  Plumstead,  and  West  Norwood,  has  been  in  all 
respects  satisfactory.  Additional  land  at  Plumstead,  about  13  acres  in 
extent,  has  been  taken  on  a  tenancy  for  seven  years  at  a  yearly  rental 
of  £33  9s.  The  Council  has  also  taken  a  tenancy  of  about  11  acres  of 
land  in  Shooter’s  Hill  Road,  Blackheath,  at  £25  a  year.  The  Council’s 
officers  have  endeavoured  to  find  suitable  land  in  other  localities,  “  but,” 
says  the  Committee,  “experience  proves  that  landowners  are  not  often 
willing  to  grant  leases  on  terms  which  the  Council  could  be  recommended 
to  accept.”  The  number  of  cultivators  on  the  existing  allotments  and 
small  holdings  of  the  Council  is  588. 
-  Kei-Apple  as  a  Hedge  Plant. — This  shrubby  South  African 
plant  (Aberia  Craffra,  Harv.  4’  Sond.),  a  member  of  the  Annatto  order 
(Bixineje),  is  armed  with  long  spines,  and  makes  excellent  hedges.  It  is 
evei-green  and  bears  fruit  like  small  yellowish  Apples.  When  fresh  they 
are  acid  and  used  as  a  pickle  ;  when  ripe  they  make  a  good  jam.  The 
“  aikato  Times  ”  of  New  Zealand  recommends  the  Kei-Apple  as  a  hedge 
plant  in  the  following  terms  :  —  “  One  is  always  hearing  complaints  nowa¬ 
days  of  the  paucity  of  good  plants  suitable  for  hedge  purposes.  This 
harl^urs  the  heat  rust  or  the  leech,  but  dies  out  in  patches,  while 
another  would  be  admirable  were  the  cows  not  so  fond  of  it.  This  being 
so,  the  thanks  of  the  community  are  due  to  Mr.  A.  Tempest  of  Parnell 
for  his  enterprise  in  introducing  and  propagating  the  ‘  Kei-Apple.’  It 
was  Sir  George  Grey,  I  believe,  who  first  mentioned  the  shrub,  which 
grows  wild  upon  the  Karoo,  or  sandy  plains  of  South  Africa,  and  it 
certainly  seems  a  perfect  hedge  plant.  It  is  a  sturdy,  stocky,  short- 
jointed  grower,  an  evergreen,  and  with  thorns  which  grow  to  6  inches 
long  and  over,  and  a  ‘perfect  terror  to  evil  doers,’  be  they  beasts  or 
human  beings.  As  an  added  advantage,  the  female  plants  (they  are  of 
both  sexes)  fruit  heavily,  bearing  in  great  quantity  yellow  Plum-shaped 
fruit,  the  size  of  a  Green  Gage,  which  are  both  pleasant  eating,  and 
make  an  exquisite  jam.  Orchardists  would  do  well  to  bear  this  shrub 
in  mind  when  planting.”  To  this  the  following  note  is  added  in  the 
“  Agricultural  .Journal  ”  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  “  It  will  be  noticed 
that  a  wrong  part  of  the  country  is  stated  to  be  the  native  habitat  of  this 
plant,  but  all  the  good  qualities  as  a  hedge  plant  are  perfectly  true.  In 
some  old  books  of  travels  in  South  Africa  it  is  stated  that  on  the  eastern 
coast  there  were  ‘  wild  Apricots  ;’  were  these  Kei-Apples  ?  Pew  people 
like  to  eat  the  fruit  raw,  but  the  jam  is  first-rate.  A  proportion  of  Kei- 
Apple  with  Tomato  would  make  a  good  jam.”— (“  Kew  Bulletin.”) 
TOMATOES  FOR  WINTER  AND  SPJUNO. 
As  Tomatoes  have  rapidly  gained  favour  with  nearly  alt  classes  of 
society  my  subject  must  be  a  popular  one.  It  is  generally  admitted  the 
taste  for  this  esculent  must  be  acquired,  conse(iuentlv  the  'start  should  be 
made  with  perfectly  ripened  fruit  ;  and  later  on.  if  this  cannot  be  had, 
fruit  of  inferior  (quality,  such,  for  instance,  as  that  imported,  will  be 
relished.  The  recent  advance  in  house  culture  has  been  princijially  made 
in  medium-sized  or  smad  gardens,  the  owners  of  which  have  become  very 
fond  of  Tomatoes,  and  are,  besides,  lustly  proud  of  their  productions. 
Many  of  these  have  grown  profitable  crops  during  the  summer  and 
autumn,  and,  provided  they  can  command  sufficient  heat,  there  is  no 
reason  why  they  should  not  grow  them  during  the  winter  also.  ( )rna- 
mental  and  useful  they  will  undoubtedly  prove,  and  this  cannot  be  said  of 
the  majority  of  the  ordinary  occupants  of  our  houses  during  the  winter 
months. 
Cuttings  may  be  rooted  or  seed  may  be  sown  at  the  present  time  for 
the  winter  and  early  spring  crops.  The  former  should  be  well-ripened 
top  shoots,  taken  off  about  6  inches  in  length,  trimmed  at  the  lowest 
joint,  dibbled  in  thinly  round  the  sides  of  well-drained  (5-inch  or  8-inch 
pots,  and  placed  either  in  a  warm  frame  or  a  hand-light  in  a  heated 
house.  They  should  be  watered  in  and  be  kept  moist,  but  not  saturated, 
and  should  not  be  damped  over  the  foliage  ;  and  if  much  moisture  con¬ 
denses  on  the  glass,  air  should  be  admitted  for  a  short  time  every  morning 
in  order  to  properly  dry  the  glass  and  foliage.  They  require  to  be  shaded 
from  bright  sunshine  till  rooted,  after  which  the  plants  must  be  gradually 
exposed  to  sun  and  air.  The  cuttings  to  be  preferred  are  the  strong  yet 
well-matured  tops  of  plants  grown  under  glass  ;  and  those  to  be  avoided, 
as  being  liable  to  damp,  are  the  gross  shoots  often  formed  on  plants 
grown  in  the  open.  Light  loamy  soil  is  suitable  for  cuttings  or  seeds. 
The  latter  may  be  sown  thinly  either  in  pots  or  pans,  and  placed  in  heat 
till  germinated,  after  which  the  plants  require  to  be  disposed  near  the 
glass  to  make  them  sturdy.  Thin  out  where  at  all  crowded,  and  when 
the  rough  leaves  are  fairly  visible  pot  singly  in  4-inch  pots,  or  in  pairs  in 
6-inch  pots,  sinking  the  stems  up  to  the  seed  leaves.  This  will 
tend  to  keep  them  dwarf,  and  the  buried  stems  rooting  freely  materially 
strengthen  the  plants. 
Various  methods  of  fruiting  Tomatoes  are  adopted,  these  being,  or 
ought  to  be,  in  accordance  with  the  intended  sites.  We  have  fruited  tliemi 
singly  in  11  and  12-inch  pots,  or  in  pairs  in  larger  pots,  in  any  rather 
flat  common  boxes  available,  and  planted  out  in  ridges  of  soil  as  we  treat 
Cucumbers.  They  are  grown  on  the  front  side  and  central  stages,  an<J 
staked,  or  in  the  two  former  positions  tied  to  wires  disposed  across  the- 
roof  or  ends  as  the  case  may  be.  We  have  also  utilised  the  back  walls  of 
forcing  houses  for  the  purpose.  In  each  case  the  result  has  been  mostr 
satisfactory,  and  what  we  can  achieve  is  equally  possible  to  others  if  they 
choose  to  make  the  attempt.  As  compost  we  prefer  roughly  broken' 
turfy  loam  with  a  liberal  addition  of  decayed  manure,  but  it  is  possible  to- 
grow  excellent  crops  of  fruit  or  plants  rooting  in  ordinary  weH-enriched. 
garden  soil.  It  should  always  be  remembered  the  Tomato  loves  goodi 
living,  and,  no  matter  how  planted,  is  benefited  both  by  fre([uent  sujjplies- 
of  Ihiuid  manure  and  occasional  top-dressings  of  rich  compost,,  the  latter 
being  quickly  taken  possession  of  by  the  roots.  Those  who  are  unable' 
to  procure  farmyard  liquid  manure  are  advised  to  give  artificial  manure 
or  guano  a  trial,  using  these  at  the  strength  recommended  by  the  vendors.. 
Although  our  plan  is  to  grow  and  fruit  the  young  plants  with  single- 
stems,  rubbing  out  all  side  shoots  as  they  form,  and  stopping  beyond 
the  second  or  third  bunch  of  bloom,  and  allow  ng  the  leading  shoot 
following  to  extend  and  fruit,  this  is  not  necessarily  the  only  or  best 
method  ;  but  as  a  rule  heavy  crops  can  be  had  in  this  way  without 
unduly  shading  the  other  occupants  of  the  house.  Unless  the  house  is 
devoted  principally  to  them  they  should  be  disposed  at  least  2  feet  apart 
but  if  they  are  of  primary  imjmrtance  and  plenty  of  root  room  is  pro¬ 
vided  they  may  be  jdanted  closer.  If  preferred  fewer  jdants  may  be  thus 
grown,  these  being  disposed  2  feet  apart,  and  second  growths  from  the 
base  may  be  laid  in  and  fruited.  It  is  also  easy  to  fill  a  house 
with  one  or  two  plants  much  after  the  manner  of  trained  Cucumbers.. 
For  this  method  plants  that  have  been  previously  fruited  in  pots 
or  l)Oxes  are  '  available.  These  should  have  their  balls  slightly 
reduced,  and  be  shifted  either  into  larger  boxes  or  small  pits  about  2  feet 
square  and  as  much  in  depth,  which  may  be  formed  with  loose  bricks, 
allowing  room  in  both  instances  for  top-dressings.  When  this  reserved 
space  is  filled  further  top-dressings  may  be  given  if  a  rim  is  formed  with 
slates  or  boards  in  the  first  instance,  or  more  bricks  in  the  other.  Such 
plants,  if  kept  thinned  out  and  stopped  occasionally  beyond  the  bunches- 
so  as  to  gradually  occupy  the  allotted  space,  prove  very  remunerative. 
From  the  commencement  in  every  case  the  plants  should  never  be 
allowed  to  become  dry  at  the  roots,  and  should  receive  light  airy  positions- 
as  near  the  glass  as  possible.  Syringing  must  be  avoided,  and  at  times 
when  many  flowers  are  expanding  the  fruit  may  fail  to  set  unless  the- 
atmosphere  of  the  house  be  kept  rather  dry.  We  grow  a  variety  of 
fine-foliaged  plants  and  Ferns  under  our  Tomatoes,  the  temperature  of 
the  house  ranging  on  most  occasions  from  55°  to  60°  by  night  to  60°  to- 
65°  by  day,  the  ventilators  being  slightly  opened  for  a  short  time  towards 
the  middle  of  every  mild  day.  In  this  manner,  and  by  attending  closely 
to  watering  with  tepid  water  varied  with  liquid  manure,  and  top  dressing, 
whenever  exhaustion  is  apparent,  that  healthy  growth  may  be  maintained 
which  may  be  relied  upon  for  perfecting  moderate  crops  throughout  the 
winter  and  spring,  or  till  such  times  as  the  house  may  be  wanted  for 
other  purposes.  We  make  three  annual  sowings  ;  the  first  in  January, 
for  plants  to  be  fruited  in  pots  during  April,  May,  and  June  ;  the  next- 
in  April  for  plants  to  be  fruited  in  boxes  in  Peach  and  other  somewhat, 
cool  houses  during  July,  August,  and  September  ;  and  the  last  in 
August  or  early  in  September  for  the  winter  su])ply.  Any  fruits  of  the 
late  autumn  crop  there  may  be  unripe  in  October  are  cut  and  hung  up. 
in  bunches  in  a  warm  house  to  ripen,  and  these  and  any  we  may  cut 
green  at  the  end  of  September  from  the  few  we  have  on  the  (men  walls 
and  ripened  similarly  prove  of  service  in  maintaining  the  suppl^  till  the 
house-grown  jiroduce  is  fit  to  use.  Tomatoes  may  also  be  ripened  in. 
boxes  placed  before  the  kitchen  fire  whenever  convenient,  or  on  a  rack 
at  a  safe  distance  above  the  fire. 
A  difficulty  is  frequently  experienced  in  setting  good  crops  during;, 
the  dull  autumn  and  winter  months  even  with  notoriously  free  setters. 
Every  care  should  De  taken  that  the  plants  receive  no  check  in  any  way,, 
and  by  closely  rubbing  out  all  superfluous  growth,  the  bunches  of  bloom., 
will  be  encouraged  to  develop  strongly.  A  drier  atmosphere  maintained 
and  frequent  smart  taps  given  towards  midday  or  about  an  hour  after  air 
has  been  given  will  distribute  the  pollen  and  insure  a  good  set.  If  this 
fails  the  blooms  may  be  lightly  touched  over  with  a  camel’s-hair  brush.. 
We  invariably  secure  good  sets  ;  in  fact  find  it  necessary  to  thin  out  the- 
bunches,  as  a  constant  if  comparatively  light  supply  is  preferable  to- 
occasional  gluts,  whith  result  if  extra  heavy  crops  are  allowed  to  mature- 
at  one  time. — W.  E.  •  > 
