JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  16,  1897. 
2  ( 6 
the  day,  but  not  so  as  to  lower  the  temperature,  keeping  the  bottom  heut 
steady  at  80''.  Water  the  plants  whenever  they  require  it,  employing 
weak  and  tepid  liquid  manure.  Avoid  the  use  of  the  syringe  too 
frequently,  as  sprinkling  the  paths  morning  and  evening  will  suffice  in  all 
but  very  bright  weather.  Fruiting  plants  should  have  a  night  tempera¬ 
ture  of  70°,  with  80°  to  90°  by  day,  closing  at  85°, 
Strawberries  in  Pots. —Watering  the  plants  must  not  be  neglected,  but 
they  are  seriously  injured  by  continued  needless  watering.  The  varietie.5 
intended  for  early  forcing  should  soon  be  given  the  protection  of  frames, 
only  using  the  lights  in  frosty  weather  and  to  throw  off  heavy  rains  and 
snow,  ventilating  freely  when  the  weather  is  mild,  withdrawing  the  lights 
when  fair,  and  when  wet  tilting  them.  Any  plants  that  have  the  soil  very 
w'et,  and  remain  so  for  some  time  without  watering,  should  have  the 
drainage  seen  to.  The  crowns  are  often  too  numerous,  not  on  La  (irosse 
Sucree,  but  on  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury,  Where  a  number  of 
crowns  cluster  round  tbe  central  one,  remove  the  small  ones  sideways 
with  a  wedge-like  piece  of  wood  without  injuring  the  central  crown  or 
crowns  or  the  leaves.  This  will  concentrate  all  the  vigour  of  the  plant 
on  the  chief  crown  or  crowns,  and  though  there  will  be  fewer  trusses  of 
bloom  there  is  no  need  to  fear  a  deficiency  of  crop.  There  is  nothing  like 
a  loose  surface  for  Strawberries  in  pots,  wliich  prevents  the  soil  leaving 
the  sides  of  the  pots,  and  admits  of  the  water  passing  evenly  through  the 
ball,  moistening  the  soil  thoroughly.  A  little  dried  cow  manure  or  horse 
droppings,  rubbed  through  a  quarter-inch  sieve,  applied  to  the  surface  of 
the  pots,  will  keep  all  right  there.  Remove  all  runners  as  they  appear, 
also  weeds,  and  do  not  allow  the  plants  to  suffer  through  want  of  room, 
giving  them  plenty  of  space  for  the  full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light 
and  air,  which  is  essential  to  a  steady  growth  and  plump,  well-developed 
crowns. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Bulbous  Plants. — Any  bulbs  in  a  dry  state  are  considerably  weakened 
by  being  kept  out  of  the  ground  much  later  than  this,  though  as  far  as 
bedding  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissi,  and  Crocuses  are  concerned  they 
cannot  well  be  planted  before  the  beds  are  cleared  of  their  summer  occu¬ 
pants.  In  addition  to  taking  an  early  opportunity  of  planting  miscellaneous 
biilbs,  newly  bought  in  or  otherwise,  advantage  should  also  be  taken  of  a 
dry  time  in  September  or  the  early  part  of  ( Ictober  for  lifting,  dividing, 
and  replanting  many  of  the  bulbous  plants  already  established  on  the 
place.  Not  that  these  require  annual  or  even  biennial  attention,  but 
most  of  them  pay  well  for  lifting  and  replanting  every  third  or  fourth 
autumn. 
Anemones. — The  apennina,  nemorosa,  vernalis,  and  coronaria  types  are 
all  perfectly  hardy.  They  are  very  beautiful  in  the  early  spring  and 
summer  months,  and  are  simply  indispensable  where  tu'ight  coloured 
dowers  are  largely  required  for  cutting.  They  succeed  admirably  in  a 
variety  of  positions,  including  fruit  borders.  They  ought  to  have  the 
benefit  of  a  freely  worked  loamy  soil  to  which  road  grit  or  sand  and  well 
decayed  cow  or  horse  manure  have  been  freely  added.  Dispose  the  roots 
2^  inches  deep  and  about  5  inches  apart  each  way. 
Crocuses. — Hatches  of  these  in  variety  are  very  effective  near  the  fronts 
of  shrubberies  and  mixed  borders,  where,  if  they  are  planted  early  and 
about  4  inches  deep,  they  will  increase  rapidly,  paying  well  for  lifting, 
dividing,  and  replanting  every  third  or  fourth  autumn. 
Crown  Imperials  and  Fritillarias. — These  ought  not  to  be  disturbed 
often,  but  if  there  are  signs  of  failure  or  it  is  desirable  to  increase  the 
stock  of  any  of  the  varieties,  directly  their  growth  is  completed,  lifting, 
dividing,  and  replanting  may  take  place.  They  ought  not  to  be  very 
roughly  used,  but  a  small  ball  of  soil  and  roots  should,  when  possible,  be 
saved  with  each  bulb,  the  replanting  not  being  long  delayed.  Mixed 
borders  and  the  fronts  of  newly  formed  shrubberies  are  the  best  positions 
for  this  class  of  plants,  there  being  then  no  necessity  for  often  disturbing 
them.  Any  bought  in  should  be  obtained  and  planted  not  later  than 
October.  All  require  a  rather  rich  loamy  soil,  those  that  have  been 
purchased  or  roughly  used  being  well  surrounded  with  sand.  Plant  just 
below  the  surface  in  groups  of  three  or  six  bulbs. 
Cyclamens.  —Both  C.  Coum  and  C.  europseum  are  comparatively  hardy 
in  the  more  southern  parts  of  the  country,  and  are  admirably  adapted  for 
rockwork.  The  present  is  a  good  time  for  planting  them  ;  they  ought 
to  have  a  rather  dry  sheltered  position  and  a  light  sandy  soil  to  root 
in.  Plant  in  groups  of  about  three  plants. 
Dog’s  Tooth  Violets. — These  are  more  hardy  than  the  foregoing,  and 
are  worthy  of  cultivation  for  their  beautiful  leaves  alone.  They  thrive 
best  in  a  peaty  sandy  soil,  where,  if  not  interfered  with,  they  spread 
rapidly.  The  fronts  of  shrubberies  and  the  margins  of  beds  are  the 
best  places  for  them.  If  the  soil  is  of  a  somewhat  heavy  nature  add 
common  peat  and  sand  freely,  or  failing  the  former  use  abundance  of 
good  leaf  soil. 
Hyacinths. — Those  permanently  planted  should  not  often  be  dis¬ 
turbed,  but  when  they  are  moved,  September  and  October,  or  before  fresh 
root  action  commences,  will  be  the  best  time  to  do  it.  Late  in  October 
or  early  in  November  is  quite  soon  enough  to  plant  new  bulbs  in  beds 
or  borders.  The  Grape,  Feather,  and  Musk  Hyacinths  are  of  a  very 
different  character,  and  alt  are  very  effective  in  their  way.  Every  four 
or  five  years  is  quite  often  enough  to  disturb  them,  and  they  ought 
therefore  to  be  planted  rather  deeply  in  front  of  the  borders.  They  are 
not  particular  as  to  the  kind  of  soil  they  are  planted  in. 
Irises. — Al)out  every  third  season  the  bulbous-rooted  varieties  ought 
to  be  lifted,  divided,  and  replanted,  taking  care  not  to  wholly  clear  the 
roots  of  soil.  This  may  well  be  done  now,  and  new  bulbs  planted  as 
soon  as  they  can  be  had.  They  all  ought  to  have  the  benefit  of  a  freely 
worked  well-enriched  soil,  and  if  planted  somewhat  thinly,  or  about 
8  inches  apart,  and  fully  4  inches  deep  in  beds,  the  surface  of  the  latter- 
during  the  winter  and  spring  may  be  furnished  with  Alpine  Auriculas,. 
Pansies,  and  such  like  ;  and  during  the  summer  with  Verbenas,  Migno¬ 
nette,  and  other  tender  plants  that  do  not  unduly  rob  the  ground  of 
moisture  and  fertility. 
Narcissi  and  Daffodils. — These  rank  among  the  most  serviceable  and 
the  most  popular  spring  flowering  bulbs  that  can  be  grown.  To  be 
constantly  successful  with  them  they  must  not  be  disturbed  oftener  than 
every  third  or  fourth  year.  Single  bulbs  of  choice  varieties,  given  good 
room  and  not  disturbed,  soon  surround  themselves  with  offsets,  all  of' 
which  flower  grandly  when  comparatively  small,  always  providing  they 
are  not  prematurely  detached  from  the  parent  bulb.  It  will  thus  be  seen, 
that  flower  beds  are  not  the  proper  places  for  any  but  the  cheap  Narcissi 
of  the  Polyanthus  type  ;  but  they  will  do  well  near  the  fronts  of  mixed, 
borders,  shrubberies,  and  even  the  open  spaces  between  fruit  trees. 
Commoner  Daffodils  should  also  be  extensively  planted  along  side  paths 
and  drives  in  woods,  and  the  poeticus  type  of  Narcissi  thrive  admirably 
on  the  banks  of  ponds  and  lakes.  It  may  not  be  advisable  to  dot  them, 
promiscuously  over  lawns  and  turf  generally,  but  they  thrive  well  and 
are  very  effective  when  grouped  in  the  turf  not  far  from  shrubberies 
and  under  high  spreading  trees.  In  most  cases  the  tops  die  down  before 
the  grass  need  be  mown,  and  every  season  the  e fleet  will  be  greatly 
improved.  From  6  inches  to  8  inches  apart  each  way  is  none  too  much 
space  to  allow  all  the  larger  varieties  in  the  various  sections,  the  smaller 
forms  being  located  about  5  inches  apart.  Plant  to  a  depth  of  about  5  or 
6  inches.  They  will  thrive  in  almost  any  kind  of  soil,  but  are  most  at 
home  in  a  fairly  rich  free-working  loam,  sand  or  road  grit  being  freely 
added. 
Snowdrops. — These  must  be  planted  early,  and  not  often  disturbed,  or 
otherwise  the  stock  of  bulbs  will  soon  dwindle  away.  Groups  of  bulbs 
2  inches  below  the  turf  on  lawns,  banks,  in  shady  places,  and  the  margins 
of  lakes,  shrubberies,  and  borders  where  they  are  seldom  or  never  dis 
turbed,  rarely  fail  to  increase  rapidly  and  flower  abundantly. 
Tulips. — Any  that  have  been  long  undisturbed  in  one  place  may  shortly 
be  lifted  and  replanted,  and  new  bulbs  of  boi’der  varieties  ought  to  be  put 
out  not  later  than  the  middle  of  October.  Give  them  some  fresh  loamy 
soil  and  a  little  sand  to  each  bulb. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Cabbage. — In  many  districts  wet  weather,  almost  without  a  break, . 
has  been  experienced  ever  since  the  “  spring  ”  Cabbage  seed  was  sown, 
and  as  a  consequence  slugs  have  had  matters  nearly  all  their  own  way. 
Where  hundreds  ought  now  to  be  almost  ready  for  pricking  out,  or  even 
planting  out,  only  a  few  solitary  plants  are  to  be  seen.  It  is  too  late  to 
sow  more  seed,  with  a  view  to  having  abundance  of  plants  for  moving 
again  this  autumn  ;  but  any  raised  soon  might  stand  through  the  winter 
in  the  seed  beds,  and  be  available  for  planting  out  early  next  spring. 
The  plan  of  sowing  seed  where  a  portion  of  the  plants  are  to  remain  and 
heart-in  early  next  spring  is  well  worthy  of  a  trial.  Select  good  first 
early  varieties,  sow  the  seed  on  well-prepared  ground  thinly  in  shaUow 
drills  15  inches  apart.  Directly  the  seedlings  show  through  the  ground 
dust  them  with  soot  and  lime,  repeating  as  often  as  necessary,  by  way  of 
preventive  of  slug  and  flea  attacks.  If  all  goes  on  well  a  capital  lot  of 
plants  will  be  available  for  transplanting  next  spring,  those  left  a  foot 
apart  in  the  rows  hearting-in  early. 
Celery. — Wet  weather  has  also  greatly  interfered  with  the  work  of 
moulding  up  Celery.  Advantage  should  be  taken  of  dry  days  to  push 
on  with  this  kind  of  work,  especially  if  the  plants  are  opening  out  badly. 
Once  the  leaves  assume  their  natural  horizontal  position  they  cannot  be 
made  to  enclose  the  hearts  properly,  many  of  them  also  splitting  when , 
tied  up.  In  all  cases  remove  sucker-growth  and  the  smallest  leaves,  and 
after  the  reserved  leaves  have  been  gathered  well  up  together  surround 
them  with  only  enough  fine  soil  to  keep  them  upright.  It  may  be  found 
that  partially  moulded  up  rows  are  comparatively  dry  at  the  roots. . 
Unless  those  needing  it  receive  a  good  soaking  of  water  or  liquid  manure 
before  more  soil  is  banked  against  the  stalks  “  bolting  ”  will  take  place 
prematurely.  Much  Celery  is  annually  spoilt  owing  to  neglecting  the 
plants  at  the  roots  after  earthing  has  commenced.  If  slugs  or  grubs  are 
troublesome  dust  soot  freely  about  the  stalks.  This  may  entail  extra 
cleaning  when  the  Celery  has  to  be  prepared  for  use ;  but  that  is 
better  than  disfigured  stalks.  Celery  bandaged  with  strong  brown 
paper  prior  to  moulding-up  is  the  cleanest  of  all  when  lifted  for  use. 
Celeriac. — The  Turnip  like  base  of  Celeriac  ought  now  to  be  swelling 
fast.  These  should  be  kept  free  from  sucker  growths  and  weeds,  but 
must  not  be  moulded  up  yet.  When  they  are  earthed  over  in  October 
this  will  be  done  with  a  view  to  affording  protection  from  severe  frosts, 
not  because  any  blanching  is  necessary. 
Late  Peas. — Hot  weather  in  July  and  too  many  wet,  dull  days  since 
has  had  the  effect  of  practically  spoiling  numerous  rows  of  late  Peas. 
Mildew  is  rampant,  and  for  this  there  is  no  remedy  other  than  a  change- 
to  warm,  dry  weather.  Where  the  rows  are  doing  compai  atively  weU 
small  birds  have  to  be  reckoned  with,  these  emptying  the  pods  before  they 
are  fit  to  gather.  In  the  case  of  tall-growing  varieties  it  is  next  to  impos¬ 
sible  to  protect  the  pods,  small  birds  finding  their  way  through  doubled, 
fish  nets  even.  The  medium  height  to  dwarf  varieties  grown  entirely 
without  stakes  are  the  least  interfered  with. 
Potatoes.  — Lifting  and  storing  should  take  place  as  much  as  possible  • 
during  dry  weather.  As  the  Potatoes  are  lifted  they  should  be  sorted, 
and  stored  at  once.  What  drying  is  necessary  can  take  place  in  the 
heaps  before  the  tubers  are  covered  heavily.  This  is  the  time  to  select 
tubers,  and  not  after  they  have  been  spoilt  by  being  treated  similarly,  to 
the  ware  or  cooking  tubers.  The  latter  must  be  stored  in  the  dark,  and- 
