September  23,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
299 
THE  YOUNa  HARDENERS’  JDOMAIN. 
Apple  Cellini. 
In  a  year  like  the  present  one,  when  Apples,  generally  speaking,  are 
no  more  than  half  a  crop,  it  is  well  to  notice  those  varieties  that  are 
constant  croppers,  of  which  the  above  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  I  know. 
It  is  a  conical  shaped  fruit,  of  very  handsome  appearance,  and  from  medium 
to  large  in  size,  coming  into  use  in  September  and  keeping  till  the  end  of 
November.  It  cooks  well,  and  is  sometimes  used  for  dessert,  but  it  is 
rather  acid,  and  there  are  generally  plenty  of  good  dessert  Apples  at  that 
time.  Cellini  appears  to  do  equally  well  as  bush  or  pyramid.  The  tree  is 
a  small  grower,  consequently  it  does  not  retpiire  much  room  ;  planting 
distance  would  be  about  12  feet.  Although  many  varieties  in  the  same 
gardens  have  scarcely  any  fruit  on  them  this  season,  the  one  in  question 
requires  support,  owing  to  the  weight  of  its  crop. — .1,  L.  G. 
Spring  Bedding. 
"When  the  summer  plants  and  autumn  rubbish  are  cleared  off  a  layer 
of  well  decayed  manure  about  2  inches  thick  is  applied  to  the  beds  and 
dug  in  rather  deeply.  Treading  is  then  given  and  the  beds  smoothed 
over  with  a  rake.  If  the  gi’ass  be  wet  when  planting  commences  a  few 
pieces  of  sackcloth  or  anything  available  laid  down  prevents  it  being 
made  unsightly.  For  spring  bedding  we  use  Wallflowers,  Violas,  double 
Daisies,  Myosotis,  and  various  kinds  of  luilbs. 
Wallflowers  are  topped  when  5  or  6  inches  high  to  make  them  dwarf 
and  bushy  ;  they  then  stand  the  winter  better  than  tall,  lanky  plants.  If 
there  is  any  bracken  or  long  straw  available  a  little  placed  between  and 
around  them  protects  them  from  the  cold  cutting  winds  which  often  do 
much  injury  in  winter ;  also  a  slight  sprinkling  on  the  Hyacinths  and 
Tulips  is  well  worth  the  trouble  involved.  Hyacinths  are  planted  about 
6  inches  apart  and  3  inches  below  the  surface,  with  a  little  sand  around 
them.  The  same  applies  to  Tulips.  For  a  succession  of  bloom  of  the 
last  named,  alternate  planting  of  single  and  double  varieties  is  advisable. 
The  beauty  of  the  beds  is  enhanced  by  planting  tender  growths  of 
Myosotis,  Silene,  or  a  carpeting  of  Anemone  apennina.  A  bed  planted 
with  Scilla  sibirica,  with  an  edging  of  white  Daisies,  has  a  charming 
e  fleet, — Improver. 
[Our  correspondent  may,  perhaps,  like  to  know  there  is  room  for  him 
to  improve  in  three  directions: — 1,  In  composition  and  writing;  2,  in 
leaving  twice  the  space  between  the  lines  of  his  MS. ;  and  3,  in  sending 
his  letters  to  the  address  given  at  the  head  of  the  leading  article  and  of 
the  correspondents’  column  each  week.] 
Culture  of  the  Grape  Vine. 
^Continued  from  page  252.) 
Compost. — No  hard  and  fast  rule  can  well  be  laid  down  for  this.  On 
reference  being  made  to  any  standard  work  on  fruit  culture  we  can 
obtain  guidance,  but  we  cannot  take  all  from  a  book ;  our  brains  and 
powers  of  observation  must  be  used  to  the  fullest.  Local  composition  of 
the  soil  has  much  to  do  with  the  construction  of  Vine  borders.  In  some 
places  grand  Grapes  can  be  produced  from  almost  the  natural  soil,  which 
seems  to  contain  the  ingredients  that  are  necessary  for  the  sustenance  of 
the  Vine.  Happy  is  the  gardener  in  this  case. 
Take  another  example.  The  soil  may  be  bad,  almost  unfit  for  Vine 
culture,  yet  the  owner  of  the  land  and  vineiy  will  not  go  to  the  expense 
of  procuring  any  other.  What  troubles  and  anxieties  the  gardener  has 
to  contend  with  then.  Do  as  he  will,  his  Grapes  are  barely  presentable. 
Every  detail  in  the  cultivation  of  the  Vine  may  be  carried  out  to  the  letter, 
and  yet  there  is  always  something  lacking.  In  this  case  Vine  culture  is 
one  continual  source  ot  worry  to  the  gardener, 
I  haVe  seen  fine  Grapes  produced  from  good  calcareous  (containing 
lime)  turfy  loam,  the  top  4  or  5  inches  of  an  old  pasture,  the  loam  being 
roughly  broken  up,  and  old  mortar  rubble,  wood  ashes,  and  soot  well 
mi.xed  with  it,  according  to  the  discretion  of  the  cultivator,  no  strict  pro¬ 
portions  being  adhered  to.  The  compost  was  prepared  some  time  befoi’e 
being  required  for  use,  and  protected  from  the  action  of  the  weather. 
.Making  Vine  Bordees. — It  is  generally  advised  to  let  the  inside 
border  fill  with  roots  before  making  the  one  outside,  openings  in  the  wall 
of  the  house  being  bricked  up  for  the  time  being.  Opinions  differ  on  the 
subject,  but  I  am  an  advocate  for,  say,  yard  of  border  for  the  first  3'ear 
inside,  and  the  same  outside  the  house,  adding  I5  yard  each  succeeding 
year  until  the  whole  space  is  filled.  By  this  means  the  Vines  are  kept  in 
a  healthy  condition,  as  the  roots  are  ever  ready  to  take  freely  to  the 
new  compost. 
In  making  the  border,  cover  the  drainage  with  reversed  turves  ;  these 
will  keep  it  clear  for  a  long  time.  Place  the  compost  on  the  turves, 
making  it  firm  as  the  work  proceeds.  Let  the  outside  edges  slope  some¬ 
what,  in  order  that,  when  a  fresh  amount  of  compost  is  required,  the 
edges  can  be  lightly  pricked  up  with  a  small  fork,  the  added  compost 
binding  more  freely  by  this  means. 
Planting. — Some  gardeners  advise  planting  the  young  Vines  when  in 
a  growing  state,  these  being  taken  into  the  house  a  few  days  in  advance  to 
inure  them  to  the  temperature.  Other  Grape  growers  allow  the  Vines  to 
complete  their  growth  for  the  season,  and  rest  in  the  pots  before  planting. 
It  is  with  the  former  method  I  intend  dealing.  Excavations  should  be 
made  of  ample  depth  and  width  for  the  reception  of  the  balls  of  soil 
turned  out  of  the  pots,  and  the  roots  ought  to  be  carefully  disentangled  in 
oi'der  that  they  may  take  freely  to  the  compost  in  which  they  are  placed. 
In  planting  it  is  well  to  lay  out  as  many  as  possible  in  layers,  with  soil 
between  them,  taking  care  not  to  break  any  of  the  roots.  The  soil  must 
be  finely  broken  up  and  worked  amongst  them  with  the  fingers.  Plant 
firmly,  and  not  too  deeply,  and  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots  by  affording 
a  good  watering. 
Keep  the  Vine  straight  by  means  of  a  stick  fastened  to  the  wires,  the 
cane  being  tied  to  it,  A  straight  stem  will  then  be  produced,  which  looks 
better  than  a  crooked  one.  Allow  a  sufficient  distance  in  planting,  so  that 
when  the  stem  is  developed  it  will  not  come  in  contact  with  the  hot-water 
pipes.  It  will  be  found  necessary  to  resort  to  the  syringe  and  shading 
for  some  short  time  after  planting  the  Vines,  to  prevent  flagging.  As 
regards  distance,  for  permanent  Vines,  from  4  to  5  feet  asunder  is 
advisable.—  Sempeh. 
Anthueiums. 
This  large  genus  of  stove  and  greenhouse  plants  is  remarkable  for 
the  peculiar  intlorescence  and  often  noble  leaves.  Fibry  peat,  loam, 
sphagnum,  broken  crocks,  or  charcoal,  and  silver  sand,  form  the  most 
suitable  compost. 
In  preparing  the  peat,  it  should  be  broken  up  into  small  lumps,  and 
then  have  most  of  the  earthy  matter  knocked  out  of  it  by  giving  it 
a  few  raps  with  a  stick,  or  by  shaking  it  about  in  a  sieve.  To  this,  after 
so  treated,  add  about  one-fourth  its  bulk  of  sphagnum  and  about  half  its 
bulk  of  fibrous  loam,  and  just  a  sprinkling  of  fresh  broken  crocks,  or 
small  pieces  of  charcoal  and  sharp  silver  sand.  In  placing  them  in  the 
pots,  which  must  be  well  drained,  carefully  spread  out  the  roots  and 
work  the  mixture  among  them,  keeping  the  plants  well  up,  so  that  when 
finished  they  stand  clear  above  the  rim  of  the  pot  at  least  2  inches  or 
3  inches,  and  form  a  kind  of  mound  or  hillock.  They  must  then  be  kept 
freely  syringed  or  watered,  and  placed  in  a  moist  atmosphere,  where  they 
can  enjoy  a  temperature  ranging  between  60°  and  70°,  or  a  few  degrees 
lower  for  the  less  tender  species. 
Raising  plants  from  seed  requires  patience.  About  a  year  elapses 
from  the  time  the  flowers  are  fertilised,  which  should  be  done  artificially 
before  the  seed  ripens,  and  often  another  to  get  up  plants.  Sow  as 
soon  as  ripe  in  shallow,  well-drained  pans  or  pots,  filled  with  the 
potting  mi.xture,  and  cover  slightly,  in  a  close,  moist,  propagating  case, 
where  a  temperature  of  from  75°  to  85°  is  maintained,  or  they  may  be 
covered  with  bell-glasses.  The  principal  thing  is  to  keep  the  air  about 
them  constantly  humid,  and  the  material  in  which  they  are  sown  in  a 
uniformily  moist  condition  ;  if  this  is  done,  the  young  seedlings  will  make 
their  appearance  in  due  course.  When  these  are  of  sufficient  size  to 
handle,  they  should  be  pricked  off  in  the  same  sort  of  compost,  and  be 
kept  close  and  moist  till  they  get  a  start,  after  which,  gradually  inure 
them  to  more  air.  January  is  the  best  month  of  the  year  wherein  to  pro¬ 
pagate  these  plants  by  division.  This  is  done  by  carefully  turning  them 
out  of  their  pots  and  shaking  out  what  soil  they  have  amongst  their  roots, 
which  must  be  tenderly  dealt  with,  so  as  not  to  bruise  or  injure  them. 
This  done,  they  may  then  be  pulled  apart,  and  must  have  a  copious  supply 
of  water  at  all  times,  although,  of  course,  much  less  during  the  winter 
than  spring  and  summer  months.  There  is  no  season  of  the  year  when 
they  can  be  handled  for  any  purpose  with  less  risk  or  check  than  January. 
A  moderate  moist  stove  heat  is  advisable  for  them  generally. — W.  DI., 
Wexham  Park. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Wall  Trees. — Shortening  Secondary  Shoots. — ^Vpples,  Pears,  and  Plums 
trained  on  walls,  and  which  had  their  foreright  growths  shortened 
earlier  than  others,  will  most  probably  have  formed  fresh  young  shoots 
from  the  upper  buds  of  the  restricted  growths.  These  ought,  therefore, 
to  be  pruned  back  to  the  first  leaf,  when  that  has  attained  a  fair  size. 
Finally  Stopping  Growths.— 'Sew  extension  wood  or  shoots  iiroduced 
after  this  period  are  of  little  practical  use,  and  when  such  growths  indicate 
a  decided  tendency  to  continue  growth,  especially  Peaches,  Nectarines, 
and  Apricots,  the  shoots  may  be  stopped  by  cutting  off  the  points.  The 
effect  of  this  will  be  to  assist  the  ripening  process  of  the  current  year’s 
shoots,  and  cause  the  sap  to  concentrate  itself  in  the  buds  of  the  lower 
and  more  mature  portion  of  such  growths,  gradually  forming  them  into 
fruit  buds,  interspersed  with  wood  buds. 
Removing  Superfluous  Shoots. — When  the  fruit  has  been  gathered.  Peach, 
Nectarine,  and  Apricot  trees  should  receive  careful  examination,  so  as  to 
dispense  with  all  shoots  that  have  borne  fruit.  Cut  them  out  close  to  the 
origin  of  reserved  shoots  destined  for  the  future  bearing.  This  treatment 
relieves  the  trees  considerably,  and  directs  the  energy  towards  the  young 
wood.  An  additional  benefit  derived,  which  is  of  importance,  is  the  more 
thorough  exposure  of  shoots  to  light  and  air,  insuring  a  well-ripened 
condition. 
Securing  Growths. — In  preference  to  allowing  shoots  to  lay  about  in 
various  directions,  temporarily  lay  them  in  towards  the  wall  or  trellis  in 
the  direction  intended  for  final  training.  They  will  thus  receive  the 
advantages  of  warmth  of  wall. 
Cleansing. — During  the  time  the  leaves  remain  green,  assimilation  of 
food  from  the  roots,  and  that  taken  in  from  the  aii-,  goes  on.  This,  of 
course,  is  beneficial ;  but  if  red  spider  infest  the  trees,  the  work  the 
leaves  perform  is  obstructed.  Hence  it  is  desirable  to  give  the  trees  a 
dressing  of  insecticide  immediately  the  fruit  has  been  gathered,  and  occa¬ 
sionally  syringe  the  foliage  afterwards,  until  the  leaves  change  colour. 
Gathering  Fruit. — Carefully  continue  the  gathering  of  Apples  and 
Pears,  also  Plums  and  late  Peaches. 
