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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
Septemher  28,  1897. 
Apples.— AW  the  earliest  varieties  of  Apples  ought  now  to  be  off  the 
trees.  Varieties  which  may  now  be  gathered  include  Lord  Suffield, 
Cellini,  Domino,  Potts’  Seedling,  Jolly  Beggar,  Cherry  Apple  or  Siberian 
Crab,  Yellow  Ingestrie,  Worcester  Pearmain,  and  Wellington. 
Pears. — Of  Pears,  gather  Williams’  Bon  Chretien,  which  is  rather  late 
this  season,  and  the  crop  poor  ;  Madame  .Treyve,  Brockworth  Park, 
Ilessle,  Autumn  Xelis,  Flemish  Beauty,  Fertility,  Autumn  Bergamot,  and 
Crassane. 
Plums. — The  following  varieties  are  now  ripe  or  approaching  maturity  — 
.lefferson,  Pond's  Seedling,  Washington,  Autumn  Compote,  Coe’s  Golden 
Drop.  Gather  the  choicest  fruits  by  the  stalk.  Ripe  or  ripening  fruits 
left  on  the  trees  should  be  well  protected. 
Applying  Liq^uid  Manure  to  Fruit  Trees.— The  autumn  months  are 
very  suitable  for  rendering  assistance  to  fruit  trees  which  require  addi¬ 
tional  nourishment  at  the  roots.  Such  applications  will  largely  benefit 
weakly  trees.  They  will  also  improve  the  soil  whei'e  a  succession  of  crops 
has  impoverished  it. 
State  of  the  Soil. — Liquid  manure  can  in  numerous  instances  be  applied 
freely  at  this  season,  inasmuch  as  the  soil  in  ojien  quarters  has  become 
suitably  moist  from  frequent  rains.  In  all  positions,  however,  this  may 
not  be  the  case.  Wall  trees  are  frequently  an  exception.  The  soil  near 
walls  may  have  become  so  dry  from  long-continued  drought  and  the 
extra  demands  of  trees  that  much  rain  is  necessary  to  moisten  it. 
Moist  Soil  Essential. — The  soil  must  be  made  comparatively  moist 
before  stimulating  and  sustaining  liquid  manure  can  be  applied  with 
benefit.  Therefore,  when  the  soil  is  very  dry,  give  copious  soakings  of 
clear  water  prior  to  the  maniire. 
Suitable  Liquid. — The  drainings  from  farmyard  manure  are  the  most 
generally  useful,  for  they  contain  most,  if  not  all,  the  essential  constituents 
of  plant  food.  Housebold  slops  diluted  with  soapsuds  may  be  employed. 
The  contents  of  cesspools  are  most  valuable  for  fruit  trees  when  diluted 
down  to  a  safe  strength  with  clear  water.  Stable  or  cowshed  drainings, 
either  alone  or  in  mixture,  form  useful  nourishment,  none  of  which  ought 
ever  to  be  wasted  where  well  established  or  old  fruit  trees  exist.  The 
soluble  ingredients  of  the  latter  will  then  be  better  retained  by  the  soil 
and  readily  available  for  alisorption  by  the  roots. 
Method  of  Application. — As  the  roots  of  trees  extend  as  far  as  the 
branches,  any  applications  intended  to  reach  the  root  must  cover  the  area 
of  ground  to  that  distance.  AVhere  roots  are  not  very  near  the  surface 
loosen  the  soil  with  a  fork,  so  that  the  water  or  liquid  manure  may  be 
more  readily  admitted.  A  few  deep  holes  made  with  a  crowbar  is  an 
excellent  way  of  quickly  moistening  the  lower  strata.  This  is  not  a  plan 
to  be  generally  recommended  for  trees  having  the  bulk  of  their  roots  near 
the  surface,  such  as  Apples  on  Paradise,  and  Pears  on  (Quince  stocks. 
Apples  on  Crab  stocks  and  Pears  on  Pear  stocks  have  roots  which 
penetrate  deeper  in  the  soil,  and  there  would  be  less  danger  of  damaging 
the  fibres. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Melons. — In  Houses. — As  the  days  are  shortening,  the  nights  being 
relatively  cold,  even  white  frost  occurring  in  the  morning,  and  the  moisture 
increases,  it  is  necessary  to  exercise  care  and  judgment  in  watering, 
never  doing  it  unnecessarily  ;  but  the  latest  plants  with  the  fruit  swelling 
must  not  be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  at  the  roots  as  to  prejudice  the 
foliage.  Maintain  moderate  moisture  by  damping  the  floors,  walls,  and 
sides  of  the  bed  every  morning  and  at  closing  time,  earthing-up  the  roots 
as  re([uired  ;  but  late  plants  recjuire  less  soil  to  grow  in  than  the  mid¬ 
season  plants.  Remove  all  superfluous  growths  as  they  appear,  and 
maintain  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°  at  night,  5°  less  on  cold  nights,  70°  to 
75°  by  day,  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  at  about  80°. 
Fruit  ripening  will  be  better  for  a  little  extra  fire  heat  and  a  circulation 
of  air  constantly.  A  dry  condition  at  the  roots,  but  not  so  as  to  cause 
the  foliage  to  flag,  accelerates  the  ripening  process  and  enhances  the 
quality  of  the  fruit. 
In  Pits  and  Frames.— In  those  heated  solely  by  fermenting  materials 
no  water  will  be  required  after  this  time  unless  the  soil  is  dry  and  the 
foliage  becomes  limp,  which  it  must  not  be  allowed  to  do.  Any  water 
supplied  should  be  so  as  not  to  wet  the  foliage  or  even  the  surface  of  the 
bed  more  than  can  be  helped.  Keep  the  frames  well  lined,  admitting  a 
little  air  constantly,  which,  with  the  fruit  raised  well  above  the  surface  of 
the  bed,  will  do  much  to  accelerate  the  ripening,  prevent  decay,  and 
impart  flavour.  Any  fruit  it  is  wished  to  keep  for  a  time  should  be  cut 
when  changing  with  a  good  portion  of  stem,  and  be  kept  in  a  dry,  airy 
room  ;  or  if  wanted  ripe  at  once  it  may  be  placed  in  a  warm,  airy  house 
on  a  shelf  in  the  full  sun.  Melons  ripen  better  there  than  in  frames  or 
pits  devoid  of  fire  heat. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — AA  e  would  again  urge 
the  necessity  of  attention  to  these  trees  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  all 
down,  following  the  instructions  given  on  September  9th  (page  252),  as 
the  procedure  strikes  at  the  root  of  jtests  passing  over  from  year  to  year, 
especially  red  spider  and  scale,  and  gives  the  trees  the  advantage  of 
thorough  rest,  with  o]!]  )ortunity  of  pushing  fresh  roots,  thus  being  well 
prejiared  for  a  start  when  the  jiroper  time  amves. 
Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — AA^here  new  trees  have  to  be  bought,  the 
earliest  jjlaced  orders  generally  secure  the  best  trees,  and  they  can  have 
their  ret|uirements  attended  to  in  respect  of  top-dressing  without 
delay.  This  is  very  important,  as  those  disturbed  late  at  the  roots  do  not 
carry  the  buds  well,  nor  is  the  start  and  setting  of  the  fruit  nearly  so 
satisfactory  as  when  this  has  been  anticipated  by  timely  attention  to 
secure  it  in  the  late  summer. 
^  Second  Early  Forced  T rees. — These,  often  the  first  in  many  places,  they 
being  started  at  the  new  year,  will  have  shed  their  leaves,  or  be  in  that 
condition  shortly,  anck  should  be  attended  to  in  pruning,  cleansing  the 
house,  dressing  the  trees,  and  top-dressing  the  border  according  to 
instructions  already  referred  to,  as  this  gives  them  better  advantages 
than  putting  off  everything  until  the  last  moment,  when  neither  house  nor 
trees  can  be  properly  cleansed,  and  much  after  trouble  in  respect  of  pests 
is  the  consequence. 
Trees  Pipening  the  Fruit  in  July. — The  trees  will  now  be  approaching 
the  resting  period,  and  the  foliage  becoming  sere.  Supply  them  with 
water  so  as  to  keep  the  soil  moistened  through  to  the  drainage,  but  if  the 
roof-lights  have  been  removed,  the  trees  being  in  a  condition  to  allow 
of  its  being  done  in  August  or  early  in  this  month,  they  can  remain  off 
until  the  time  of  starting  arrives,  and  the  soil  will  get  well  moistened  by 
the  autumnal  rains,  and  frost  and  snow  have  an  invigorating  effect  on  the 
trees,  as  well  as  having  a  good  result  on  the  enemies  that  beset  them.  If  the 
wood  is  not  ripe  it  is  not  wise  to  expose  the  trees  to  heavy  rains  and  snow. 
Assuming  the  wood  is  firm  and  the  buds  plumped,  it  is  advisable  to 
remove  the  roof  lights,  with  a  view  to  insure  complete  rest  and  the 
thorough  moistening  of  the  bcrder.  AA^hen  the  trees  are  very  strong  it  is 
not  desirable  to  withdraw  the  top-lights,  and  if  the  growth  is  complete 
(barring  a  few  sappy  laterals)  and  the  wood  not  ripening  kindly,  form  a 
trench  about  one-third  the  height  of  the  trees  from  the  stem,  and  detach 
all  roots  down  to  the  drainage,  leaving  the  trench  open  for  ten  days  to  a 
fortnight,  when  it  may  be  filled  firmly.  Young  trees  only  require  this, 
but  older  trees  that  have  the  wood  very  strong  may  be  root-pruned,  and 
the  roots  wholly  or  partially  lifted  before  the  leaves  have  fallen.  This 
requires  to  be  done  carefully,  as  very  vigorous  trees  have  roots  correspond¬ 
ing  to  the  branches — long,  strong,  and  few  ;  hence  a  severe  check  must 
follow  severe  root-pruning,  and  the  after-growth  be  more  or  less 
prejudiced,  if,  indeed,  the  trees  are  not  seriously  imperilled  in  life  and 
limb.  .ludgment  in  such  cases  must  be  exercised,  it  being  good  policy  to 
cut  only  a  few  strong  roots  in  one  year,  and  then  follow  on  with  the 
others  another,  so  that,  having  got  the  roots  comparatively  near  the  stem 
and  plenty  of  fibres,  complete  lifting  can  be  carried  out  without  any 
danger,  but  much  benefit  as  regards  health  and  cropping.  Some  trees 
have  straight  down  roots,  which  must  be  got  at  and  severed  before  there 
can  be  any  improvement  in  the  trees’  growth  and  bearing. 
In  the  case  of  weakly  trees  remove  the  old  soil  from  over  and 
amongst  the  roots,  supplying  fresh  strong  loam,  with  an  addition  of 
calcareous  matter  where  the  loam  is  not  of  that  nature,  making  it  firm, 
and  following  with  a  good  soaking,  the  drainage  being  good,  of  liquid 
manure,  afterwards  top-dressing  with  some  approved  fertiliser.  The 
manurial  matter  will  get  more  or  less  diffused  through  the  surface  soil 
during  the  winter,  and  possibly  adventitious  roots  be  pushed  into  it  before 
starting,  as  we  have  sometimes  noticed,  and  certainly  when  the  trees 
move.  Cut  out  weak  wood  and  branches. 
Trees  Pipening  the  Fruit  in  August  and  Early  Septemher. — The  wood  that 
has  borne  fruit  and  not  required  for  extension  must  be  cut  out,  leaving  no 
more  than  can  be  freely  exposed  to  light  and  air.  Cleanse  the  foliage  of 
dust  and  red  spider  by  water  directed  with  force  from  a  syringe  or  garden 
engine,  and  repeat  occasionally.  If  there  is  scale  syringe  with  water  at  a 
temperature  of  140°  to  160°,  and  for  red  spider  and  brown  aphis,  the  latter 
of  which  sometimes  attacks  the  younger  parts  of  the  wood  in  autumn, 
promptly  apply  an  insecticide,  the  aphis  being  best  destroyed  with  diluted 
tobacco  juice.  There  must  not  be  any  lack  of  moisture  at  the  roots, 
therefore  apply  water  to  the  inside  border  as  necessary,  to  prevent  their 
becoming  too  dry.  Afford  abundant  ventilation,  and  if  the  wood  is  not 
ripening  well  keep  the  house  rather  warm  by  day  and  throw  the  venti¬ 
lators  open  at  night  ;  but  a  warm,  close,  moist  atmosphere  must  be 
avoided,  as  that  would  be  more  injurious  than  otherwise.  In  other 
respects  the  house  cannot  be  too  freely  ventilated. 
Late  Trees. — A\’’hen  the  fruit  from  the  earlier  ripening  varieties  has 
been  gathered  the  trees  will  need  to  have  the  shoots  thinned  where  too 
crowded,  and  those  which  have  borne  fruit  and  not  required  for  extension 
can  be  cut  out  to  a  successional  shoot  at  the  base.  This,  with  free  venti¬ 
lation  and  gentle  fire  heat  in  dull  weather  in  cold  localities,  and  the  wood 
strong,  will  assist  in  ripening  the  growth,  which  is  of  primary  importance 
as  regards  next  year’s  crop.  It  is  also  important  to  keep  them  free  from 
insects,  hence  syringing  forcibly,  or  using  an  insecticide  after  the  fruit  has 
been  cleared  off  individual  trees,  must  be  attended  to,  always  without 
wetting  trees  with  fruit  ripening.  Avoid  a  too  dry  condition  of  the 
border,  and  expose  the  fruit  of  very  late  varieties  to  the  sun  and  light  as 
much  as  possible.  The  trees  must  not  lack  moisture,  and  yet  a  rather 
drier  condition  at  the  roots  is  advisable  whilst  the  fruit  is  ripening. 
jMealiness  often  arises  from  insufficient  supplies  of  water  during  the 
swelling  period  rather  than  from  dryness  during  the  ripening  process, 
but  at  no  time  is  dryness  to  the  extent  of  affecting  the  foliage  desirable. 
Some  soft  netting  will  be  useful  to  save  any  fallen  fruits,  but  it  must  be 
looped  up  in  small  pockets  to  prevent  the  fruit  bruising  each  other. 
AVith  an  examination  of  the  fruit  every  morning  hy  an  experienced 
person,  the  ripe  fruit  being  removed,  there  is  little  occasion  for  the 
netting,  especially  with  the  very  late  varieties.  The  fruit  is  better 
gathered  before  it  is  dead  ripe,  and  kept  in  a  light  airy  fruit  room 
until  thoroughly  matured. 
The  late  Peaches  are  very  noble  in  appearance,  and  of  excellent 
quality  when  well  done.  Prince  of  AA^ales,  very  little  seen,  is  a  magni¬ 
ficent  fruit  when  grown  under  glass  and  in  warm  soils,  but  it  is  not 
satisfactory  against  walls  and  in  heavy  soils.  Gladstone,  a  similar  fruit, 
does  splendidly  in  a  late  house,  it  being  very  large  and  of  first  rate 
quality  when  well  fed  during  growth.  For  looks  Princess  of  Wales  is, 
perhaps,  the  grandest  of  all  late  summer  Peaches,  attaining  a  large 
size  and  assuming  fine  colour  under  favouring  circumstances,  and 
Late  Admirable  also,  has  both  size  and  quality  to  recommend  it,  also 
