302 
JOURKAL  OF  TTORTTCULTURF  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER,  September  23,  1897. 
Burning  Sulphur  in  vinery  (  Walthmn). — W e  do  not  burn  sulphur  in 
houses  of  any  kind  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  useful  plants.  After  prun¬ 
ing  the  Vines  and  removing  the  rough  bark,  we  wash  the  rods  carefully 
with  a  brush,  using  a  solution  of  sulphate  of  iron,  1  lb.  to  1§  gallon  of  water. 
Itacts  against  both  fungi  and  insects,  especially  mites  (red  spider);  or  4  ozs. 
caustic  soda  (97  per  cent.),  and  4  ozs.  commercial  potash  (pearlash),  dis¬ 
solved  in  3  gallons  of  water,  applying  when  the  Vines  are  dormant. 
This  will  kill  the  very  fne-coloured  hybernating  mites,  commonly  called 
“  eggs  ”  of  red  spider,  and  these  got  rid  of  there  will  be  none  to  continue 
the  breeding  the  following  year,  unless,  of  course,  they  come  from  else¬ 
where. 
Obtain  a  large-mouthed  bottle,  holding  about  a  quart  of  syrup,  over 
the  mouth  tie  a  piece  of  muslin,  or  something  of  open  texture,  fasten 
it  tightly  round  the  neck  with  a  piece  of  string.  The  hole  at  the  top 
of  the  skep  must  first  be  covered  with  a  piece  of  perforated  zinc,  on 
the  top  of  which  the  inverted  bottle  must  be  placed,  and  the  whole 
covered  up  warm.  It  is  an  advantage  if  the  syrup  is  given  warm  at 
this  season,  Kefill  the  feeder  as  often  as  is  necessary,  and  the  chances 
are  that  stocks  of  bees  treated  in  the  above  manner  will  come  out 
strong  and  healthy,  and  will  throw  off  early  swarms  the  following 
spring. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  8,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  Ziondon,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  Fleet  Street,  It 
is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  corre¬ 
spondents,  seeking  information  on  matters  discussed  in  this 
Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and 
expense,  and  departmental  w'rilers  are  not  expected  to  answer 
any  letters  they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects 
through  the  post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular 
subject  from  any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named, 
endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should  never  send 
more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only.  We 
cannot,  as  a  rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do 
not  undertake  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason, 
cannot  be  inserted. 
Carnations  Diseased  (C.  A.).  -  The  “  grass  ’  is  infested  by  a  mild 
form  of  rust  fungus  (Uroinyces  caryopliillinus).  The  parasite  readily  yields 
to  dilute  Bordeaux  mixture,  mentioned  in  re})ly  to  “  R.  S.,”  or  dusting  with 
the  advertised  fungicides  in  powder,  such  as  anti-blight,  fostite,  and  other 
similar  preparations ;  but  some  growers  prefer  permanganate  of  potash, 
1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  spraying  on  the  loliage  lightly,  just  coating 
them  with  a  thin  film  of  the  solution.  If  those  preventives  had  been  applied 
much  sooner,  the  plants  would  not  be  in  the  condition  they'  are  now. 
Removing  “Yew”  Tree  (/.  W.,  York').—l{  the  spray  sent  was  from 
the  tree  it  is  an  Elm,  the  Winged  or  Wahoo  (Ulmus  alata),  a  very  desirable 
North  American  species.  By  cutting  off  the  head  at  1^  yard  from  the 
ground,  you  will  to  some  extent  check  the  growth  of  the  roots,  and 
prevent  the  further  lilting  of  the  asphalte  pavement,  but  it  will  not  kill 
them,  and  though  not  such  a  keen  suckering  species  as  the  English  Elm, 
it  would  probably  throw  up  suckers,  also  push  growths  from  the  part  of 
bole  left.  We  should  clear  the  free  away  bodily  as  soon  as  the  leaves 
have  fallen,  say  in  November,  and  then  bore  holes  with  an  augur  in  the 
direction  of  each  root  of  the  tree  from  the  cut-off  part,  f  iling  each  with 
a  saturated  solution  of  saltpetre,  or  til  with  the  article  and  pour  in 
sufficient  water  to  cover  the  nitre,  then  plug  the  hole  tightly  with  a  wood 
plug,  and  you  may  not  be  troubled  with  suckers,  at  least  we  found  the 
plan  answer  almost  as  well  as  arsenic,  this  being  a  very  dangerous  sub¬ 
stance  to  use  and  the  other  quite  safe. 
Diseased  Chrysanthemum  Leaves  ((7.  S'.).— The  magnificent,  large, 
thick,  leathery,  dee])  green  leaves  (barring  brown  s[)ots)  are  seriously 
infested  by  the  rust  fungus  (Triehobasis  Artimism),  the  pustules  being 
much  larger  than  commonly  found  on  Chrysanthemums.  This  shows  the 
fungus  not  to  attack  the  ])lants  because  unhealthy  and  poverty  stricken, 
for  the  leaves  afford  evidence  of  high-class  culture.  Quite  a  cloud  of 
dust  fell  on  the  microscopic  slide,  thousands  of  s|)ores  on  the  square  inch 
of  surface.  Every  one  will  grow  if  it  has  a  chance  in  presence  of  such 
abundance  of  food  as  your  ])lants  afford.  The  point  is  to  jirevent  the  s])ores 
germinating.  'This  ought  to  have  been  done  at  least  a  month  ago  by  dusting 
the  plants  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  with  a  10  |)er  cent,  sulphate  of 
coi)])er  ]ireparation  in  ]>owder,  such  as  anti-blight  or  fostite,  using  a  bellows 
apparatus,  and  blowing  upwards.  Now  lay  the  plants  on  their  sides,  and 
spray  or  syringe  with  a  solution  of  sulphide  of  potassium,  1  oz.  to  3  gallons 
of  water,  doing  it  outside,  as  the  sulphide  smells  nastily  and  discolours 
paint.  Do  it  well  ;  let  the  leaves  get  nearly  dry,  then  syringe  with  clear 
water  if  you  like,  but  that  is  not  necessary  for  anything  but  appearance. 
There  are  numbers  of  jiustules  not  broken  through  the  epidermis  ;  these 
will  not  be  killed  by  the  sulphide  solution,  therefore  repeat  in  the  course 
of  a  tew  days.  If  more  readily  obtainable  use  permanganate  of  potassium, 
1  oz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  spraying  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  This 
sinks  into  the  pustules.  It  is  only  necessary  to  coat  the  under  side  of 
the  leaves  with  the  finest  possible  film.  Do  something,  and  at  once,  for 
never  was  seen  a  finer  harvest  of  spores,  and  that  means  a  corresponding 
broad-casting  of  seed  for  another  crop. 
Young  Vines  Killed  by  Eel  worm  (Cross).— The  four  young  Vines,  at 
least  the  one  you  have  sent  us,  have  been  attacked  by  eelworm,  as  you 
suspected,  hence  asked,  “  Would  eelworm  enter  the  Vine  roots?’’  The 
answer  is  No  ;  the  species  only  attacks  the  plants  on  the  root  stems  just 
above  the  roots,  thus  making  sure  of  a  plentiful  supply  of  nourishment 
for  itself  and  offspring.  It  is  the  root-stem  eelworm  (Tylenchus  obtusus), 
and  the  most  prevalent  form  attacking  Cucumbers  in  this  country.  In 
answer  to  your  other  question,  “Is  there  any  disease  in  stem  or  roots  ?” 
The  stem  has  its  bark  entirely  destroyed  all  round  just  within  the  soil. 
The  roots  are  perfectly  healthy,  a  mass  of  fibres,  such  as  any  grower 
would  be  pleased  to  see,  and  the  cane  itself  stout,  short  jointed,  hard  in 
wood,  and  small  in  pith.  The  eelworm  was  probably  introduced  in  the 
“rank  ’  top  6  inches  of  old  Cucumber  soil.  We  should  give  at  once  a 
dressing  of  best  chalk  lime,  freshly  burned,  cwt.  per  rod,  slating  with 
the  smallest  amount  of  water  necessary  to  cause  the  lumps  to  fall  to  a 
fine,  a])parently  dry,  powder,  spreading  evenly,  and  pointing  in  the  soil 
as  far  as  can  be  done  without  injury  to  the  roots,  and  not  deeper  than 
6  inches,  taking  small  spits  so  as  to  incorporate  well.  Watering  the 
Vines  with  soluble  phenyle,  1  part  in  96  parts  of  water,  will  do  no  harm, 
and  may  do  good,  using  it  on  the  affected  stems.  If  you  li  e  to  earth 
up  the  other  three  so-called  “  dead  Vines  you  will  get  roots  from  above 
the  girdled  parts,  and  also  test  the  potency  of  the  preparation  mentioned 
for  killing  eelworm.  We  may,  perhaps,  give  an  illustration  of  the  case. 
Diseased  Pears  {R.  S.). — The  Pears  are  attacked  b}'  brown  rot  fungus 
(Monilia  fructigena),  now  in  the  mycelial  hyphse  stage,  which  you  may 
easily  see  on  cutting  a  fruit  in  halves.  The  brown  irregular  marking 
corresponds  to  the  cells  or  parts  destroyed  by  the  jiarasite,  and  the  fungal 
threads  are  readily  distinguished  by  a  lens  enlarging  250  diameters,  as 
pushing  their  way  in  the  intercellular  spaces  of  the  living  cells  of  the 
fruit.  Later  on  the  fruit  ordinarily  becomes  covered  with  a  white  mould 
in  beautiful  rings.  This  is  the  conidial  condition  or  Monilia  fructigena 
form  ;  but  the  affected  fruit  sometimes  onl}'  remains  brown,  even  drying 
and  ■shrivelling,  yet  small  bkdck  bodies  form  in  the  fruit,  and  these  carry 
the  disease  over  from  year  to  year.  The  common  form  of  continuance 
is,  however,  by  perennial  mycelia  in  the  wood  of  the  tree  affected, 
commonly  referred  to  as  “canker”  on  young  shoots.  IVe  mention  this, 
for  if  there  are  any  such  on  your  tree  they  must  be  cut  out  to  sound 
wood,  dressing  the  cuts  with  gas  tar,  but  not  allowing  this  on  the  young 
wood.  Then  root-])rune  the  tree  as  soon  as  the  leaves  commence  falling, 
operating  carefully,  so  as  not  to  cause  a  very  severe  check,  on  cne  side  of 
the  tree  if  roots  are  strong  this  autumn,  following  with  the  other  side  the 
next.  This,  and  su])j)lying  fresh  comi)Ost,  with  the  burning  of  affected 
fruits,  we  have  found  effectual  from  a  cultural  j)ointof  view,  supplemented 
by  spraying  with  a  dilute  Bordeaux  mixture,  1  lb.  of  copper  sul})hate  and 
1  lb.  of  lime  to  121  gallons  of  water  (1)  just  before  the  blossoms  open  ; 
(2)  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  well  formed  ;  (3)  a  fortnight  afterwards  ;  >(4) 
again  in  another  fortnight.  This  prevents  the  fungus  spores  taking 
possession,  and  thus,  paradoxically  sjieaking,  goes  to  the  root  of  the  evil 
at  the  to])  of  the  tree. 
Fruit  Trees  for  Walls  (TV  B.'). — Apricots:  Erogmore  Early  (small). 
Alberge  de  .Montgamet  (small,  chiefiy  used  for  preserving).  New  Large 
Eaidy  (large),  Hemskerk  (large),  Kaisha  (medium).  Peach,  Moorpark, 
St.  Ambroise,  Powell’s  Late  (the  last  four  large  and  excellent).  Cherries: 
Early  Rivers,  Belle  d’Orleans,  Governor  Wood,  Bigarreau  de  Schreken, 
Downton,  Black  Tartarian,  May  Duke,  Black  Eagle,  Werder’s  Early 
Black  Bigarreau,  Elton,  Bigarreau  Napoleon,  Reine  Hortense,  Florence, 
and  Tradescant’s  Heart.  Figs:  St.  John’s,  Telfer,  Brunswick,  Brown 
Turkey,  and  White  Marseilles.  Nectarines:  Early  Rivers,  Lord  Napier, 
Darwin,  Stanwick  Elruge,  Violet  Hative,  Hardwick’s  Seedling,  Humboldt, 
Dryden,  Pinea})ple,  and  Victoria.  Peaches:  Alexander,  Early  Louise, 
Hales’  Eai'ly,  Dr.  Hogg,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Dymond,  Royal  George,  Belle- 
garde,  Noblesse,  A'iolet  Hative,  Barrington,  Princess  of  Wales,  and  Wal- 
burton  Admirable.  Pears :  Doyenn^  d’Ete,  .largonelle,  AYilliams’  Bon 
Chretien,  Beurre  d’Amanlis,  Souvenir  du  Congres,  Triomphe  de  Vienne, 
Beurre  Superfin,  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey,  Marie  Louise,  Emile  d’lleyst. 
Doyenne  du  Comice,  Thompson’s,  Glou  Morejeau,  Passe  Colmar,  Josephine 
de  Malines,  Beurre  d’ Anjou,  Marie  Benoist,  Winter  Nelis,  Passe  Crassane, 
Beurre  Ranee,  Doyenne  d’Alencon,  Bergamotte  d’Esperen,  and  Easter 
Beurrt',  with  ITvedale’s  St.  Germain  for  stewing.  Plums:  Dessert— July 
Green  Gage,  De  Montfort,  Denniston’s  Superb,  Jefferson,  Purple  Gage, 
Green  Gage,  Transpai’ent  Gage,  Rivers’  Golden  Gage,  Coe  s  Golden  Drop, 
Reine  Claude  de  Bavay,  Bryanston  Green  Gage,  and  Ickworih  Impera- 
trice.  Kitchen  —  Early  Prolific,  Czar,  Belgian  Purple,  Large  Black 
Imperial,  Prince  Engelbert,  A'ictoria,  AVhite  Magnum  Bonum,  Diamond, 
Pond’s  Seedling,  Monarch,  Autumn  Compote,  and  Archduke.  A  south 
aspect  suits  all  the  fruits,  but  the  most  suitable  are  Apricots,  Figs, 
Nectarines,  and  Peaches  ;  an  east  aspect  answers  for  Cherries  and  Plums, 
and  a  west  for  Pears.  Only  Morello  Cherry  does  well  on  a  north  aspect ; 
but  kitchen  Plums,  especially  Victoria,  bear  fairly,  and  some  Pears  ;  also 
the  May  Duke  of  all  Cherries. 
