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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  September  so,  1897. 
low  unheated  structure.  Atmospheric  conditions  in  such  a  house  vary 
considerably.  When  sudden  changes  do  occur,  the  tender  tissues  of  the 
jietals  are  injured,  and  the  result  is  decay.  Fungus  probably  takes 
possession,  and  damping  is  complete.  The  best  way  to  avoid  this  is  to 
place  the  plants  at  a  reasonable  distance  from  the  glass,  and  to  ventilate 
freely  at  first.  When  the  fiowers  are  opening,  and  there  is  damp  dull 
weather  at  the  time,  apply  a  little  fire  heat,  which  causes  the  atmosphere 
to  be  brisk  by  counteracting  the  extra  moisture.  Always,  however, 
admit  air.  On  very  bright  and  sunny  mornings  afford  shade  to  well- 
advanced  flowers,  which  may  prevent  injury. 
When  housing  the  plants,  the  pots  should  be  washed  and  the  drainage 
holes  cleared  of  dirt,  which  might  prevent  the  escape  of  superfluous  water. 
Dead  leaves  on  the  plants,  weeds,  and  rubbish  on  the  soil  provide  a 
harbour  for  earwigs.  All  such  ought  to  be  cleared  away.  A  little  hint 
may  also  be  worth  recording,  that  the  hollows  above  the  upper  culms  or 
joints  in  Bamboo  sticks  are  admirable  hiding  places,  too,  for  the  well- 
known  earwig.  Those  who  did  not  adopt  the  precaution  of  stopping  up 
the  holes  will  find  it  advantageous  to  do  it  now. 
The  foliage  of  any  variety  affected  with  mildew  ought  to  be  dusted 
with  sulphur,  as  a  means  of  checking  the  fungus.  The  Japanese  variety, 
AV.  Tricker,  is  subject  to  it,  so  plants  of  that  variety  will  almost  certainly 
require  sulphuring.  After  housing  give  water  carefully.  In  dull  weather 
little  will  be  required  for  several  days,  if  plants  were  adequately  moist 
when  conveyed  in. 
Continue  to  disbud  terminal  shoots,  or  to  take  late  crown  buds.  The 
best  results,  even  for  decorative  purposes,  are  to  be  had  from  one  bud 
on  a  shoot  of  all  the  large-flowering  varieties. 
Feeding— Artificial  AIanuees. 
When  outdoors  showery  weather  is  a  suitable  time  to  feed  the  plants 
with  sprinklings  of  artificial  manure,  but  feeding  must  be  -continued 
after  housing,  though  very  little  the  first  week.  Take  precautions,  how¬ 
ever,  not  to  a|)ply  those  of  a  hot  burning  character,  such  as  guano, 
without  mixing  with  soil,  so  that  active  young  rootlets  near  the  surface 
may  not  he  damaged. 
The  easily  dissolved  salts,  such  as  sulphate  of  ammonia  and  nitrate 
of  soda,  ought  not  to  be  applied  direct  to  the  surface,  but  dissolved  in 
water  at  the  rate  of  J  oz.  to  the  gallon.  These  are  s]>ecial  manures, 
and  furnish  quickly  in  a  readily  available  form  one  important  element 
of  plant  food — namely,  nitrogen.  Both  are  highly  stimulating,  and 
being  so,  but  few  applications  at  wide  intervals  are  necessary.  The 
high-class  general  artificial  manures  supply  most  of  the  essential 
elements  of  plant  food,  and  may  be  given  more  frequently  to  well-rooted 
plants. 
Animal  Manures. 
It  is  a  commendable  plan  to  alternate  general  and  special  manures 
with  solutions  prepared  from  animal  manures  obtained  in  a  fresh  con¬ 
dition.  The  manures  employed  may  include  horse,  cow,  sheep,  and 
fowl  manure.  They  may  be  used  separately  or  in  combination,  but 
preference  ought  to  be  given  to  the  use  of  them  separately.  A  peck 
of  each  to  30  gallons  of  water  forms  rich  and  sustaining  food,  giving 
first  one  and  then  another  for  a  few  days.  Dilute  to  a  safe  strength, 
and  use  clear,  this  being  best  assured  by  tying  up  the  manure  in  a  coarse 
bag. 
Soot  Water. 
This  solution  forms  a  clean  and  valuable  liquid  if  prepared  properly. 
Place  a  quantity  in  a  canvas  bag,  sinking  in  a  tub  of  water.  When 
well  mixed  throw  in  a  shovelful  of  lime.  Stir  well  and  allow  to  settle.  A 
scum  will  appear  on  the  surface.  On  removing  this  the  water  below  will 
be  of  a  rich,  clear  wine  colour,  due  to  the  lime  clarifying  or  making  it 
clear.  If  too  rich  or  strong,  dilute  it  to  the  colour  of  beer,  and  apply 
in  rotation  with  other  liquid  food.  'Soot  water  gives  a  deep,  dark 
colour  to  the  leaves,  and  a  richer,  fuller  colour  to  the  flowers.  It 
contains  nitrogen  in  the  form  of  sulphate  of  ammonia. 
After  a  prolonged  course  of  weak  applications  of  liquid,  somewhat 
stronger  doses  may  be  given  with  advantage,  especially  to  vigorous, 
strongly  rooted  plants.  The  last  swelling  and  the  commencement  of  the 
unfolding  of  the  buds  is  a  period  when  abundance  of  food  should  be  within 
the  reach  of  healthy,  hungry  roots,  gradually  reducing  the  supply  to 
clear  water  as  the  flowers  are  becoming  fully  developed.— E.  D.  S. 
ROOT-PRUXINa  FRUIT  TREES. 
AVhen  quite  a  beginner  I  was  much  perplexed  to  hear  and  read  of 
gardeners  pruning  the  roots  of  trees -notably  fruit  trees.  It  seemed  to 
me  a  most  absurd  practice,  because  I  knew  a  tree  could  not  live  without 
its  roots.  As  I  becaine  older,  however,  1  began  to  imiuire  into  the  “  why 
and  wherefore  ”  of  this  subject,  and  learned  that  in  supposing  the  practice 
to  be  bad  I  was  entirely  wrong.  The  necessity  for  root-pruning  is 
brought  about  by  several  different  causes,  among  them  being  careless  or 
improper  planting,  vigorous  rootstocks,  and  shallowness  of  fertile  soil. 
AVe  will  consider  the  planting  first,  as  upon  it  largely  depends  the 
future  of  the  tree.  The  most  common  mistake,  probably,  is  planting  too 
deeply  If  this  is  done  the  roots  are  of  necessity  placed  farther  away 
from  the  modifying  effects  of  the  sun  and  air,  and  are  consequently  in 
peater  danger  of  dying  or  remaining  inactive.  It  is  then  the  mischief  is 
being  contracted.  AA’’hile  the  surface  roots  are  inactive  the  lower  and 
stronger  roots  are  pushing  straight  down  into  the  subsoil.  Thus  the 
advisability  ot  shallow  jilanting  becomes  clear  to  even'  thoug-htful 
gardener.  ® 
Too  vigorous  rootstocks  was  the  next  point  I  mentioned.  It  often 
occurs  that  trees  are  grafted  on  stocks  much  more  vigorous  in  consti¬ 
tution  than  the  scion  or  graft.  This  is  done  in  order  to  make  a  weak 
growing  tree  more  productive  than  it  would  be  on  its  own  roots  or  on 
a  stock  of  medium  strength.  But  it  also  has  a  tendency  on  shallow 
soils  to  induce  sappy  growth  by  the  roots  entering  the  subsoil,  hence 
the  need  of  root-pruning. 
A  shallow  surface  soil  is  no  fault  of  the  gardener,  and  it  is  under  such 
conditions  that  root-pruning  becomes  a  periodical  necessity  where  satis¬ 
factory  crops  of  fruit  are  desired.  It  is,  therefore,  well  for  us  to  have,  if 
possible,  a  knowledge  of  the  depth  and  nature  of  the  soil  as  well  as  of 
the  stocks  and  constitution  of  trees  we  are  dealing  wdth  before  planting 
largely. 
Having  considered  what  makes  root-pruning  necessary,  let  us  see 
what  results  are  obtained  from  pursuing  such  a  course,  and  why  it  should 
he  done  at  all.  AA^hen  does  a  tree  require  to  be  root-pruned,  and  what  are 
the  signs  to  go  by  ?  AVhat  is  the  best  time  of  the  year  to  do  it  ?  AVhich 
roots  shall  we  sever  ?  These  are  questions  which  puzzle  the  uninitiated. 
Briefly,  the  real  object  of  root-pruning  is  to  make  the  trees  more  pro¬ 
ductive  of  fibrous  roots  as  near  the  surface  as  possible.  These  will  tend 
to  produce  wood  of  medium  strength  that  will  mature  properly  and 
produce  plenty  of  fruit  buds  instead  of  sappy  growths,  which  no  amount 
of  autumn  sun  will  mature.  Of  course  it  does  not  follow  that  every  tree 
requires  its  roots  checked,  for  it  would  be  absurd  to  tamper  with  those  of 
one  that  was  bearing  heavy  crops  of  fruit  annually.  Bather  give  such 
a  specimen  help  in  the  shape  of  mulchings  and  liquid  manure.  It  is  trees 
that  produce  nothing  but  long  succulent  growths  till  late  autumn  which 
indicate  to  a  careful  observer  that  something  is  wrong  somewhere,  and 
one  may  rest  assured  the  mischief  is  at  the  roots. 
The  best  time  to  do  this  work  is  as  soon  as  the  fruit  has  been 
gathered,  as  the  new  roots  will  then  have  time  to  lay  hold  of  the  fresh 
soil  before  the  advent  of  hard  weather.  It  is  an  operation  which  requires 
to  be  done  quickly  and  well.  Commence  about  4  to  6  feet  away  from  the 
bole  of  the  tree  and  remove  the  soil  with  a  fork  to  a  depth  of  2  to  3  feet, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  tree  and  depth  of  fertile  soil.  Retain  all  the 
fibrous  roots,  severing  the  thick  ones  with  a  sharp  knife,  always  making 
the  cut  from  bottom  to  tO]),  so  that  the  cut  side  will  face  downwards. 
After  getting  down  to  the  required  depth  proceed  to  undermine  the  tree  in 
the  same  careful  manner,  making  a  clean  cut  wherever  it  is  necessary,  as 
jagged  ends  will  cause  the  roots  to  decay.  It  is  important,  too,  that  as 
many  of  the  severed  portions  of  roots  as  possible  be  removed,  as  if  left  in 
the  ground  they  are  favourable  to  the  growth  of  fungi,  which  will  in  time 
attack  the  living  roots. 
Replace  the  soil  firmly,  adding  to  the  staple  a  liberal  quantity  of  good 
turfy  loam,  which  will  induce  the  formation  of  the  root  fibres  so  essential 
to  a  good  crop  of  fruit.  Give  a  mulch  of  half-decayed  manure  and  the 
work  is  finished.  During  this  time  the  tree  must  not  have  been  allowed 
to  flag,  being  freely  syringed  and  shaded  occasionally  if  necessary  until 
the  roots  take  hold  of  the  fresh  compost.  A  tree  thus  treated  will  in  most 
cases  be  found  to  give  entire  satisfaction  in  after  years  with  an  ordinary 
share  of  attention. — T.  P. 
PREPARING  SOILS. 
The  successful  planting  and  establishment  of  hardy  trees,  shrubs,  and 
plants  of  all  kinds  depends  in  a  great  measure  on  previous  and  thorough 
preparation  of  the  soil.  It  is  true  there  are  other  essential  conditions— 
namely,  the  judicious  preparation  of  the  subjects  to  be  jdanted.  Trees 
and  shrubs  are  best  planted  when  of  portable  and  medium  size.  They 
should  be  well  furnished  with,  if  possible,  balls  of  fibrous  roots,  so 
that  they  do  not  suffer  from  removal.  Herbaceous  plants  ought  to  be 
lifted,  divided,  and  replanted  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  Deep  and 
thorough  disturbance  of  soil  is  only  possible  when  there  is  no  danger  of 
cutting  and  damaging  valuable  roots.  Hence  the  desirability  of  taking 
extra  trouble  to  trench,  dig,  and  manure  before  planting  permanently. 
Soils  are  of  diverse  character,  but.  their  preparation  previous  to 
planting  may  in  one  particular — viz.,  deep  culture,  be  practically  the 
same.  Heavy  soils  are  largely  improved  in  mechanical  condition  by 
deep  digging  or  trenching.  Soils  of  medium  texture  have  their  usefulness 
increased.  Light  soils  cultivated  deeply  are  able  to  draw  upon  the  subsoil 
for  moisture  when  needed.  Should  the  evaporation  from  the  surface  in 
hot  weather  be  more  rapid  than  desirable  there  are  various  methods  of 
checking  it.  The  chief  plans  resorted  to  are  compressing  the  surface, 
mulching,  and  hoeing.  The  latter  is  good  for  all  soils,  as  it  affords  facility 
for  the  free  entry  of  oxygen  from  the  air. 
The  depth  of  soil  required  by  high  class  cultivation  is  2  to  3  feet. 
Trenching  is  the  most  complete  and  effectual  method  of  moving  the  soil, 
but  there  are  two  ways  of  carrying  out  the  0]ieration.  One  is  the 
total  reversal  of  the  position  of  the  layers  of  soil,  the  other  is  the  movino- 
to  a  similar  depth,  but  without  altering  its  original  position.  The  former 
acts  well  when  the  whole  depth  of  soil  is  of  uniform  quality,  or  can  be 
advantageously  mixed  if  the  subsoil  differs  from  the  upper  layer.  It  is 
esfential  to  carry  out  the  latter  method  when  the  subsoil  is.  poor  and  the 
upper  layer  good.  Serious  mistakes  have  been  made  by  neglecting  to 
ascertain  the  respective  quality  of  each.  This  has  resulted  in  burying 
the  good  and  fertile  upper  layer,  and  bringing  to  the  surface  the  hungry 
jioor  subsoil,  in  which  probably  few  plants  or  crops  could  thrive  at  first. 
The  best  plan  is  to  leave  such  soil  in  its  original  position,  but  breaking 
it  up  well,  mixing  with  it  decayed  manure  or  vegetable  material. 
Heavy  clayey  soils  or  heavy  adhesive  loamy  soils  are  much  improved 
