322 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
September  30,  1897. 
PLANTING  DAFFODILS. 
Thehe  is  perhajis  no  better  month  in  the  year  for  planting  the  majority 
of  Daffodils  and  Narcissi  than  early  October,  though  some  growers 
make  a  start  even  earlier.  Such,  however,  are  exceptions,  and  not  the 
rule  ;  indeed,  amateurs  have  not  the  opportunity  of  procuring  their  bulbs 
much  before  this  date.  With  regard  to  lifting  and  storing  them,  I  will 
only  say  that  it  is  too  late  to  attempt  it  if  not  already  done,  as  many  are 
already  rooting  freely  that  have  not  been  disturbed,  therefore  to  lift  them 
and  lose  all  their  new  roots  would  be  a  serious  error.  But  now  a  few 
words  as  to  planting  them  and  their  general  cultivation. 
Regarded  collectively,  the  majority  of  Daffodils,  and  particularly  the 
grand  Trumpet  varieties,  which  belong  to  the  magni-coronatae  group, 
delight  in  a  deep  rich  fertile  loam,  such  as  fresh  turf  from  a  pasture.  In 
this  they  thrive,  though  it  is  not  forthcoming  in  a  great  many  instances, 
and  they  have,  therefore,  to  be  planted  in  something  else.  They  are  by 
no  means  a  fastidious  group,  however,  as  may  be  gleaned  from  the 
manner  in  which  some  thrive  in  cottage  gardens  that  have  not  been  dis¬ 
turbed  for  years,  where  they  have  grown  into  large  masses,  too  crowded, 
it  may  be,  to  flower  with  their  wonted  freedom  when  under  good  cultiva¬ 
tion  ;  for  let  it  be  borne  in  mind  that  while  these  cottage  garden  clumps 
appear  to  thrive,  the  number  of  dowers  will  be  very  small  as  compared 
with  the  number  of  bullis. 
Like  all  other  plants.  Daffodils  cannot  grow  to  perfection  when  left 
alone.  If  one  of  these  large  clumps  be  examined,  it  is  most  likely  there 
may  be  fifty  or  a  hundred  bulbs  of  all  sizes  heaped  one  on  another,  and 
probably  not  a  dozen  dowering  bulbs  in  the  whole.  The  case  is  quite 
different  with  Daffodils  under  cultivation,  when  single  bulbs  (I  allude 
more  particularly  to  the  old  double  Daffodil)  will  produce  three,  four,  and 
even  dve  dowers  each  ;  thus  illustrating,  on  the  one  hand,  the  plant  in  a 
semi-wild  condition,  and  on  the  other,  the  result  of  high-class  cultivation. 
1  mention  these  extremes  to  show  that  Daffodils,  even  when  planted  in 
shrubberies  or  semi-wild  places,  are  much  benefited  by  periodical  lifting 
and  separating. 
Suitable  Position. 
The  majority  of  Daffodils  are  very  accommodating  a.s  to  position,  and 
may  be  planted  in  the  herbaceous  border  proper,  or  fringing  a  plantation 
of  Rhododendrons  ;  on  grassy  slopes  ;  in  shady  groves  ;  in  the  woodland 
or  wild  garden,  or  in  fact  any  place  out  of  doors  where  a  fair  depth  of 
good  soil  may  be  given  them.  Not  the  least  important  feature  in  con¬ 
nection  with  many  of  them  is  their  adaptability  for  forcing  and  for  pot 
culture  un^er  glass.  Only  a  few  years  ago  the  rich  and  varying  tones  of 
gold  and  yellow,  which  are  now  so  much  admired  in  these  Daffodils  in 
the  early  spring  time,  were  considered  vulgar.  Fashion  and  tastes  quickly 
change,  however,  for  who  would  have  thought  a  few  years  ago  that  our 
common  double  Daffodil  would  ever  become  sufficiently  popular  and 
valuable  that  bouquets  chiefly  composed  of  them  should  figure  prominently 
in  leading  "West  End  florists’  windows?  Yet  it  is  so,  and  extremely 
effective  they  are  when  arranged  skilfully,  and  at  the  same  time  they  are 
very  enduring  provided  they  have  not  been  forced  too  hard.  As  pot  plants 
in  the  conservatory  or  the  drawing-room  they  are  highly  ornamental,  and 
are  l^eing  more  eagerly  sought  after  year  by  year. 
In  Pots. 
But  no  matter  for  whatever  purpose  they  are  required,  whether  it  be 
for  pots  or  for  the  ojien,  no  time  should  now  be  lost  in  obtaining  supplies 
and  having  them  planted  at  once.  For  pot  culture  the  best  plan  to  adopt 
is  that  which  most  growers  emjdoy  for  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  and  the  like, 
covering  with  a  few  inches  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  or  coal  ashes.  In  this 
they  will  be  safe  for  eight  weeks  or  thereabouts,  by  which  time  abundance 
of  roots  will  lie  formed,  when  they  may  with  safety  be  introduced  into 
gentle  heat.  The  only  difference  I  would  make  with  Daffodils  for  pot 
culture  would  be  to  bury  them  completely  in  planting,  and  not,  as  is  the 
case  with  Hyacinths,  leave  the  apex  of  the  bulb  above  the  surface. 
Daffodils  when  first  introduced  into  heat  need  not  occupy  the  stages  ; 
they  may  be  placed  beneath  them,  provided  they  are  not  in  contact  with 
or  even  near  the  pipes,  as  that  would  mean  a  serious  injury  to  their 
flowering.  If  left  plunged  in  the  ashes  a  longer  time  than  I  have  stated 
some  of  the  earlier  ones  may  have  commenced  growth,  in  which  case  they 
should  be  shaded  from  full  light  for  a  few  days.  In  planting  them  in  the 
open  ground  they  are  not  so  easily  accommodated,  unless  it  be  in  instances 
where  beds  are  devoted  to  them,  when  the  planting  is  simple  enough. 
Compost. 
In  all  gardens  where  light  sandy  loam  abounds  Daffodils  are  easily 
accommodated,  and  may  be  planted  from  4  to  6  inches  deep  for  the  larger 
bullis,  such  as  Empress  and  Emperor,  Golden  Spur,  and  spurius,  while 
2  or  .3  inches  deep  will  be  ample  for  such  as  the  Hoop  Petticoat  section 
and  those  generally  of  small  stature.  For  the  more  delicate,  such  as 
cernuus,  cernuus  plenus,  albicans,  odorus  plenus,  pallidus  praecox,  nobilis, 
scoticus,  and  moschatus,  a  maximum  depth  of  3  inches  will  be  sufficient  ; 
in  heavy,  holding,  and  clayey  soils  further  precautions  will  be  necessary 
in  the  shape  of  abundance  of  sharp  grit,  burnt  earth,  and  leaf  mould  to 
render  the  soil  as  open  and  light  as  possible.  The  stronger  varieties  do 
not  object  to  heavy  soils  provided  they  are  well  drained,  in  which  case 
they  are  benefited  by  abundance  of  sharp  sandy  grit,  which  is  not  so 
important  on  lighter  soils, . 
Another  important  point  is  that  of  manure  for  Daffodils.  This  is, 
however,  a  question  which  individuals  must  settle  for  themselves,  depend¬ 
ing  as  it  does  in  its  entirety  on  the  condition  of  the  soil.  A  rich  fertile 
loam  will  grow  Daffodils  perfectly  without  manure  of  any  kind,  while  a 
poor,  hungry,  or  gravelly  soil  will  be  benefited  by  a  dressing  of  cow 
manure  worked  in  3  or  4  inches  below  the  bulbs,  or  failing  this  a  good 
soaking  of  liquid  manure  may  be  given  with  excellent  results  when  the 
roots  are  most  active — viz.,  from  September  to  end  of  January.  The  idea 
of  supplying  liquid  manure  in  winter  to  these  and  other  bulbous  plants 
has  not  received  the  attention  its  importance  deserves,  and  is  probably 
overlooked  at  a  season  when  rain  or  snow  have  made  the  ground  suffi¬ 
ciently  moist  for  most  things  ;  but  not  only  is  it  highly  beneficial  to 
Daffodils  and  Narcissi,  but  to  Liliums,  Spanish  and  English  Irises, 
tulierous  Anemones,  and,  in  fact,  the  majority  of  bulbous  plants  which 
make  a  number  of  fresh  roots  annually. 
Selection  of  Varieties. 
For  anyone  desiring  a  selection  of  Daffodils  and  Narcissus  to  form  a 
start,  I  have  given  the  names  of  some  of  the  best  and  most  useful.  Cor- 
bularia  conspicuus,  the  golden  Hoop  Petticoat ;  princeps,  yellow  and 
sulphur,  good  for  forcing  ;  nobilis,  sulphur  and  yellow,  trumpet  reflexed 
and  fringed  ;  maximus,  deep  golden,  a  fine  flower  ;  obvallaris  (Tenby 
Daffodils),  the  best  forcing  variety  Of  single  Daffodils  ;  Telamonius 
plenus,  the  old  double  Daffodil,  grand  for  forcing  ;  spurius,  spurius  major, 
andcoronatus,  all  excellent  for  a  second  early  batch  indoors  ;  Golden  Spur, 
a  grand  flower  for  any  purpose  ;  Emperor,  one  of  the  granflest  of  all  its 
tribe,  too  valuable  for  forcing  ;  Horsefleldi,  an  exquisite  flower,  will  force 
steadily  ;  Empress,  a  noble  flower  of  great  merit  ;  rugilobus,  a  useful 
variety,  very  free  flowered  ;  cernuus  and  its  double  form,  moschatus 
albicans,  William  Goldring,  cernuus  pulcher,  tortuosus,  are  all  charming 
in  the  garden  but  not  suited  to  growing  in  heated  structures. 
Next  I  would  name  a  choice  kind  which  is  always  admired — viz., 
pallidus  praecox,  a  pleasing  sulphur  .shade  and  most  useful  ;  then  in  the 
Incomparable  group  are  Stella,  Glow,  Cynosure,  Princess  ]Mary.  and  Sir 
AVatkin,  each  distinct  and  good.  Barri  conspicuus  is  remarkable  for  its 
large  spreading  jierianth  segments  of  sulphur  and  yellow,  and  cup  stained 
with  orange  scarlet,  this  is  exceedingly  showy.  To  those  named  may  be 
added  poeticus  ornatus,  poetieus  plenus,  and  the  sulphur  and  orange 
Phoenix  ;  poeticus  ornatus  is  the  best  white  forcing  variety  in  cultivation, 
and  its  flowers  by  the  tens  of  thousands  find  their  way  into  Covent  Garden 
jMarket  from  .January  to  Ajiril  inclusive.  Of  (course  such  specialists  as 
Messrs.  Barr  &  Sons,  Covent  Garden,  have  newer  varieties  of  the 
most  exquisite  beauty,  particulars  of  which  will  be  found  in  their 
catalogues. — J. 
BANBURY  ONION  SHOW. 
Thi.s  annual  Show  of  Mr.  Deverill’s  took  place  on  the  16th  inst.,  and, 
as  usual,  proved  a  great  attraction  to  the  inhabitants  of  Banbury  and 
disti’ict.  The  fine  display  of  herbaceous  flowers  exhibited  in  bunches 
from  Mr.  Deverill’s  nursery  made  a  very  pleasant  addition  to  the  Show, 
also  Dahlias,  which  I  believe  this  firm  has  successfully  exhibited  for  the 
first  time  this  season.  Probably  owing  to  the  early  attack  of  mildew 
the  Onions  were  not  quite  so  heavy  as  usual  in  the  principal  classes, 
although  Mr.  Bowerman’s  best  exhibits  were  not  much  below  the  average. 
The  cottagers  again  showed  extremely  well,  in  fact  several  of  their 
exhibits  would  not  have  disgraced  any  exhibition  table. 
Class  I.  is  called  the  champion  class,  and  is  for  the  six  lai'gest  and 
handsomest  specimens  of  any  variety  of  Deverill’s  Pedigree  Onion.  The 
prize  is  a  medal  or  timepiece,  and  was  well  won  by  5lr.  Bowerman  of 
Hackwood  Park,  Basingstoke,  with  Ailsa  Craig,  weighing  14f  lbs.  Of 
this  variety  Mr.  Bowerman  seems  to  have  a  very  fine  strain.  In  the 
next  class,  for  twelve  specimens  of  either  Ailsa  Craig  or  Cocoa-nut,  ^Ir. 
Bowerman  was  again  successful  with  Ailsa  Craig,  weighing  26  lbs.  clean 
solid  bulbs.  Mr.  N.  Kneller,  Malshanger,  was  a  close  second  as  regards 
weight,  but  the  bulbs  were  not  so  well  finished  as  the  former.  iMr. 
IMasterson,  gardener  to  Marquis  Camperdown,  AA^eston  Park,  Shipston-on- 
Stour,  was  third,  also  showing  Ailsa  Craig. 
For  twelve  specimens  of  either  Anglo-Spanish,  Lord  Keei>er,  Royal 
Jubilee,. or  Rousham  Park,  the  first  prize  was  awarded  to  Mr.  AY.  Keep, 
The  Gardens,  Faringdon  House,  Berks,  who  showed  Rousham  Park, 
weighing  21^  lbs.  ;  Mr.  R.  Lye,  Sydmonton  Court,  Newbury,  was  second 
with  Anglo-Spanish  ;  and  Mr.  Waite,  Glenhurst,  Esher,  third  with  Lord 
Keeper.  iMr.  E.  Thorne  of  Oxford  was  first  with  twelve  Improved 
AA^roxton,  his  exhibit  weighing  12|  lbs.  ;  Mr.  Lye  second.  Mr.  Lye  was 
first  with  twelve  Challenge,  and  Mr.  Waite  second. 
The  competition  for  the  best  single  specimen  of  any  variety  of 
Deverill’s  Pedigree  Onions  was  rather  limited,  but  the  specimen  which 
secured  IMr.  Bowerman  the  first  prize  was  a  handsome,  clean,  solid  Ailsa 
Craig,  weighing  2  lbs.  IS  ozs.  ;  iMr.  Kneller  was  second  with  a  fine  speci¬ 
men  of  Anglo-Spanish,  weighing  2  lbs.  ozs.  ;  Mr.  Lye  third  with  Ailsa 
Craig,  weighing  2  lbs.  1  oz.  For  six  Leeks  (Deverill’s  Oxonian)  Mr. 
Lye  was  first  with  clean  well-blanched  roots,  Mr.  Bowerman  second,  ^Ir. 
Kneller  third. 
In  the  class  provided  for  cottagers,  for  twelve  Onions  any  variety, 
there  were  twenty-four  entries,  and  all  most  creditable  exhibits.  The 
first  prize  going  to  Mr.  H.  Ellmer  of  Cuckfield,  Sussex,  for  Ailsa  Craig, 
weighing  18|  lbs. ;  Mr.  Woodcroft,  Neithrop,  Banbury,  was  second  with 
the  same  variety,  weighing  14J  lbs.  ;  iSIr.  R.  Horton,  Tysoe,  AA’^arwick,  a 
close  third  with  Ailsa  Craig.  Three  extras  were  awarded  in  this  class. 
The  class  for  eight  kinds  of  vegetables,  five  to  be  of  Deverill’s 
specialities,  brought  some  fine  produce  from  Messrs.  Lye  and  AYaite, 
the  former  just  gaining  the  first  award,  his  Aylesbury  Prize  Celery  and 
Oxonian  Leeks  being  very  good,  also  Autumn  Giant  Gauliflower  and 
Carrots.  Mr.  AYaite’s  best  dishes  were  equally  good.  Autumn  Giant 
