324 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  30,  1897. 
from  sun  heat.  The  temperature  at  the  base  of  the  pots  ought  not  to 
exceed  75°,  and  it  is  better  to  commence  with  it  at  65°  about  the  pots, 
and  increase  the  warmth  as  the  growth  advances.  Water  must  be  given 
verj"^  carefully  at  frst,  suflSce  that  the  soil  be  kept  evenly  moist,  not  in 
any  case  wet,  as  this  retards  rather  than  forwards  root  formation,  and  it 
is  only  Avhen  the  Vines  have  leaves  and  evaporate  largely  that  plentiful 
supplies  of  water  are  required. 
Early  Forced  Houses. — Vines  that  are  to  furnish  ripe  Grapes  with 
certainty  next  April  should  be  started  by  the  middle  of  November.  It  is 
not  an  advisable  jirocedure  to  start  Vines  permanently  planted  at  so 
early  a  season.  Very  early  forcing  places  a  great  strain  on  them  through 
their  having  to  make  growth  when  the  natural  conditions  are  at  the 
worst  for  elaboration  and  assimilation,  and  to  rest  at  the  hottest  part  of 
the  year,  there  being  great  danger  of  the  foliage  collapsing  from  attacks 
of  red  spider,  or  ri[)ening  too  early  from  climatic  conditions.  This  may 
cause  the  buds  that  are  to  furnish  the  next  year’s  crop  to  start  into 
growth  at  the  time  the  A  ines  should  be  resting.  It  can  only  be  ayoided 
by  retaining  some  lateral  growths  as  an  outlet  for  any  sap  which  the  roots 
absorb,  and  it  will  not  do  any  harm,  but  good,  by  securing  a  considerable 
amount  of  stored  matter,  always  provided  the  lateral  growths  are  not 
allowed  to  Interfere  Avith  the  free  access  of  light  and  air  to  the  jwincipal 
leaves.  These  laterals  should  be  removed  gradually  and  continually  from 
late  August  tmtil  early  September,  so  as  to  admit  of  the  Vines  intended 
for  starting  early  in  November  or  December  by,  or  soon  after,  tbe 
middle  of  September,  and  they  will  not  bleed,  nor  will  the  buds  start  into 
growth  if  the  house  be  kept  cool  and  dry.  There  is  no  need  to  wait  until 
the  leaves  are  all  down,  as  the  resting  having  set  in  there  will  not  be  any 
upward  flow  of  sap  ;  but  bear  in  mind  this  must  have  been  secured  by  the 
gradual  reduction  of  the  laterals  and  the  resting  apparent,  otherwise  the 
pruning  buds  may  start.  If  not  already  pruned  lose  no  time  in  performing 
it,  also  the  Vines  to  be  started  in  December,  not  deferring  pruning  beyond 
the  time  the  foliage  commences  to  fall,  so  as  to  giye  the  Vines  a  few  weeks’ 
rest. 
Outside  borders  are  a  great  mistake  in  early  forcing  Vines,  especially 
^^uscats,  and  whether  heated  below  by  hot-water  pipes,  or  above  by  fer¬ 
menting  materials,  not  nearly  equal  to  due  internal  jwovision  for  the  roots. 
Still  there  are  such  biwders,  and  have  to  be  made  the  most  of,  or  the 
Vines  in  them.  The  old  practice  of  shielding  them  from  the  heavy 
autumnal  rains  by  spare  lights  has  not  been  improved  upon,  as  it  lets  the 
border  have  the  benefit  of  any  sun  that  may  appear,  and  that  without 
depriving  the  soil  of  air.  Thus  later  on  the  border  can  be  covered  with  a 
good  thickness  of  dry  leaves  or  fern,  with  some  litter  on  top,  so  placed  as 
to  throw  off  some  of  the  wet,  and  the  heat  thus  covered  up  remains  most 
of  the  winter.  Where  there  may  be  plenty  of  leaves  and  stable  litter  the 
well-tried  practice  of  keeping  out  cold  and  getting  some  warmth  into  the 
border  by  placing  them  on  top,  renewing  them  from  time  to  time,  answers 
as  well  now  as  ever. 
But  we  do  not  advise  such  procedure  where  better  conditions  obtain, 
yet  adaptation  to  circumstances  is  a  fine  thing,  and  marks  the  cultivator 
as  successful  or  otherwise.  The  very  old  practice  of  using  fermenting 
material  inside  early  forced  vineries  has  not  been  bettered,  as  ridges  of 
sweet  fermenting  material  always  give  off  heat,  moisture,  and  nutrition, 
favouring  good  breaking  and  development  of  the  growths,  besides  saving 
fueL  In  the  heap  fashion  ridges,  like  outdoor  and  indoor,  for  a  very 
successful  Grape-grower  uses  the  stuff  for  growing  ;Mushrooms  and  then 
spreads  the  beds  over  the  border  as  a  mulch  for  the  Vines.  Three  parts  of 
leaves.  Oak  or  Beech,  and  one  of  stable  litter,  thrown  into  a  heap  a  week 
or  ten  days  before  being  placed  in  the  house  get  warm,  then  placed  in 
ridges  on  the  border  as  shown  in  “  klushrooms  for  the  ^lillion  ;  ”  allowed 
to  become  hot,  then  turned  a  time  or  two,  give  out  all  the  heat  that  starts 
the  Vines,  and  the  beds  are  spawned,  earthed,  and  anon  lots  of 
Mushrooms  appear,  so  there  is  a  sweet  air  for  the  Vines  after  they  start 
and  the  roots  come  into  the  sweet  material. 
The  whole  thing  means  abundance  of  nitrogen,  for  the  old  spawn 
decays  along  with  the  manure,  prime  stuff  speedily  passing  into  ammonia, 
and  with  occasional  s])rinklings  of  air-slaked  lime  soon  gets  into  nitrate, 
and  better,  into  the  Vines.  This  may  Vie  a  wrinkle  for  someone  hard  set 
to  make  ends  meet.  Anyway,  we  advise  the  ridges  of  fermenting  material 
in  early  forced  vineries,  always  using  that  rare  article  discriminative 
judgment  where  there  are  jdants,  sweetening  the  manure  properly,  or 
the  foliage  may  be  seriously  injured  by  the  vapour  given  off.  Therefore 
mix  well  together  when  thrown  into  the  heap,  damping  the  materials  if 
dry,  turning  when  getting  warm,  again  damping  if  necessary,  and  when 
well  warmed  through  they  are  fit  for  placing  in  the  house. 
Midseason  Houses. — Black  Hamburghs,  and  other  descriptions  of  thin- 
skinned  black  Grapes,  have  the  colour  taken  out  of  them  by  hanging,  and 
can  only  be  lessened  by  keeping  a  good  spread  of  foliage,  or  drawing  a 
double  thickness  of  herring-net  over  the  roof  lights.  The  latter  is  the 
]ireferable  plan,  as  lateral  growths  interfere  with  light  to  the  principal 
leaA'es,  and  the  free  access  of  air  so  desirable  for  maturing  the  wood. 
Those  from  which  the  Grapes  have  been  cut  may  have  the  growths  cut 
back  to  a  few  joints  above  the  pruning  buds,  first  curtailing  tbe  laterals 
and  then  cutting  back  the  main  growths.  This  insures  the  buds  becoming 
plumper,  whilst  the  freer  access  of  light  and  air  affects  the  wood  favour- 
ably.  A  free  circulation  of  air  is  necessary  to  expel  damp,  with  a  little 
constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  a  gentle 
warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes  being  necessary  when  the  external  air  is 
cold  and  damp  ;  but  tbe  wood  being  ripe  and  the  growth  matured  it  will 
suffice  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50°,  and  the  cooler  by  day  the  house 
is  kept^the  longer  the  Grapes  will  keep  plump.  Vines  that  have  not  the 
wood  ripe  should  not  haA-e  a  less  temperature  than  60°,  and  this,  with  a 
free  circulation  of  air,  must  be  continued  until  there  is  no  doubt  on  the 
point.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  check,  not  allowing  them  to  interfere 
with  the  chief  growths.  The  border  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  too 
dry,  or  the  Grapes  will  shrivel,  therefore  afford  a  supply  of  water  where 
necessary,  always  in  the  morning  and  on  a  fine  day,  so  that  air  can  be 
given  and  the  superfluous  moisture  pass  off.  The  watering  will  not  do' 
the  least  harm,  for  it  is  not  moisture  at  the  roots,  unless  excessive,  that 
causes  Grapes  to  spot  and  decay,  but  a  confined  stagnant  atmosphere, 
moisture  being  condensed,  it  may  be  imperceptibly,  on  the  berries  that 
gives  moulds  their  opportunity,  which  they  never  let  pass  by,  but  grow 
and  multiply  under  the  favouring  circumstances.  Keep  well  ventilated, 
and  have  no  leaks  in  the  roof,  then  all  will  be  well  with  the  Grapes. 
Late  Grapes. — Where  the  Vines  were  started  in  good  time,  say  March, 
and  aided  in  the  spring  by  fire  heat,  as  well  as  during  the  summer,  the 
Grapes  Avill  be  thoroughly  ripe,  in  which  state  they  can  only  be  expected 
to  keep  satisfactorily,  and  the  wood  thoroughly  matured  ;  all  laterals  or 
sprays  may  be  removed  down  to  the  main  buds,  ventilating  freely  on  all 
faA'ourable  occasions.  Fir6  heat  will  only  be  necessary  to  prevent  the 
temperature  falling  below  50“.  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  however,  matures 
better  in  a  temperature  of  55°.  To  prevent  dust  falling  on  the  berries, 
raking  or  SAveeping  must  not  be  practised.  Mats  or  clean  straw  laid  over 
the  inside  borders  will  to  some  extent  prevent  evaporation.  Outside 
borders  need  not  be  covered  where  the  soil  acts  like  a  sieve,  but  where 
composed  of  someAvhat  moisture-holding  material  a  covering  against 
heavy  rains  is  advantageous.  Glass  lights  are  best,  wooden  shutters  good, 
and  tarpaulin  over  dry  bracken  or  straw  ansAvers  well.  A  thick  thatch 
of  bracken  or  straw  is  very  serviceable.  Where  the  Grapes  are  not  yet 
ripe  the  temperature  must  not  be  less  than  70°  to  75  '  by  day  and  65°  at 
night,  falling  5°  through  the  night,  allowing  an  advance  to  80°  or  85° 
from  sun  heat,  continuing  this  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  at  least  until  the 
wood  is  brown  and  hard,  for  it  is  almost  hopeless  to  expect  good  finish 
in  Grapes  that  are  not  so  by  this  time. 
Young  Vines. — The  laterals  must  now  be  gradually  cut  back,  letting 
the  sun  have  a  clear  effect  on  the  principal  growths,  not  removing  them 
all  at  once,  but  by  degrees,  getting  them  near  the  main  rod  with  little 
further  delay,  so  as  to  leave  nothing  but  the  chief  cane  or  canes,  and  thus 
the  principal  leaves  will  plump  the  buds.  Those  having  a  tendency 
to  continue  groAving  to  a  late  period  may  be  checked  by  stopping 
the  shoots  moderately,  facilitating  the  ripening  by  a  high  and  dry  tem¬ 
perature  by  day,  starting  of  the  heat  and  keeping  the  ventilators,  except 
during  frost,  open  at  night.  Afford  water  only  at  the  roots  to  prevent 
the  foliage  becoming  limp.  This  will  harden  the  wood  and  tend  to  induce 
maturity  of  the  growths. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Unsightly  Flower  Beds. — At  this  season  of  the  year  floAver  beds  com¬ 
mence,  from  varying  causes,  to  present  a  very  untidy  appearance,  and 
the  sooner  the  beds  are  put  into  a  more  orderly  state  the  better  in  most 
cases.  Where  the  beds  have  to  be  filled  AAUth  shrubs  and  sjiring-flowering 
plants,  as  much  as  possible  of  this  ought  to  be  done  before  November. 
Dry  weather  should  be  chosen  for  this  important  Avork,  as  then  it  can  be 
done  Avithout  unduly  disfiguring  the  walks  and  turf,  and  if  the  beds  are  a 
little  on  the  dry  side  so  much  the  better,  nothing  ever  thrmng  so  well 
when  it  is  little  better  than  puddled  in.  Therefore  unhesitatingly  break 
up  the  disfigured  l>eds,  and  jiroceed  at  once  with  the  work  of  refilling. 
Hints  upon  Planting.— Nearly  any  kind  or  variety  of  Conifer  in  a 
small  state  looks  well  in  masses,  but  the  coloured  forms  of  Retinosporas, 
Thuias,  Cupressuses,  Yews,  and  such  like  as  specially  prepared  by  the 
leading  nurserymen  for  the  fiower  garden,  are  by  far  the  most  effective. 
Variegated  tree  Box,  Hollies  in  varieties,  Berberises,  Ivies,  Osmanthuses, 
and  Euonymuses  are  also  admirably  adapted  for  the  decoration  of  flower 
beds,  and  Avith  these  maybe  associated  Bernettyas,  Cotoneasters,  Skimmia 
japonica,  and  other  berry-bearing  plants.  Very  neat  dwarf  Rhododen¬ 
drons  in  beautiful  variety  and  Avell  set  with  buds  can  also  be  had  at  a 
comparatively  cheap  rate,  and  these  are  very  gorgeous  late  in  the 
spring.  Handsome  trees  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  height  of  the  Conifers 
named  are  most  effective  when  dotted  among  dwarf  flowering  and  varie¬ 
gated  foliage  plants,  and  to  these  may  well  be  added  elegant  Yuccas  and 
variegated  Iris.  All  transjilant  readily  both  now  and  again  next  spring, 
and  if  taken  good  care  of  are  available  for  the  beds  seAcral  autumns  in 
succession.  Flowering  plants,  such  as 'Wallflowers,  Forget-me-nots,  Silenes, 
Saponaria,  Polyanthirses,  Primroses,  Daisies,  Limnanthes,  and  others 
should,  if  provided  in  sufficient  number,  be  planted  rather  thickly,  as 
they  seldom  make  much  top  growth,  after  being  placed  in  the  beds.  See 
that  they  are  iu  a  moist  state  at  the  roots  before  they  are  lifted,  move  Avith 
a  good  ball  of  soil  about  the  roots,  and  replant  very  firmly.  Golden 
Pyrethrum,  if  not  allowed  to  floAver,  will  be  available  for  replanting,  and 
the  smaller  Beet  from  the  flower  borders  or  the  kitchen  garden  will  give 
a  little  colour  for  several  weeks,  and  if  the  winter  is  mild  look  well 
till  next  summer,  especially  if  the  flOAver  stems  are  pinched  out.  Old 
Violas  should  have  straggling  growths  cut  away,  and  if  divided  and 
replanted  will  present  a  very  gay  appearance  next  spring,  flowering  a 
little  later  than  summer-rooted  plants. 
Spring-flowering  Bulbs. — Freely  used  these  enliven  the  flower  garden 
surprisingly  in  the  spring.  Narcissi,  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Leucoiums, 
Crocuses,  Scillas,  and  Snowdrops  associate  well  with  the  shrubs  and  plants 
already  named,  or  the  beds  may  be  principally  filled  with  them  and 
carpeted  over  with  short  neat  pieces  of  tree  Ivy,  Box,  Aucubas,  Hollies,^ 
Laurels,  Mahonias,  and  other  evergreens,  these  presenting  a  fresh  appear¬ 
ance,  being  a  great  improvement  on  the  bare  soil  for  several  months,  and 
