326 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  30,  1897. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  he  directed  to  “  The  Editou,”  8,  Rose  Hill  Road, 
Wandsworth,  liondon,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  Fleet  Street.  It 
is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  corre¬ 
spondents,  seeking  information  on  matters  discussed  in  this 
Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and 
expense,  and  de])artmental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer 
any  letters  they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects 
through  the  post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular 
subject  from  any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named, 
endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should  never  send 
more  than  two  or  three  questions  at  once.  All  articles  intended 
for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Preserving  Angelica  (IF  Hubbard),  —  The  stalks  of  Archangelica 
officinalis  are  occasionally  candied  with  sugar,  and  when  so  prepared  are 
used  in  desserts  by  those  who  esteem  them  to  “  stimulate  the  stomach.” 
The  stalks  have  been  also  blanched  and  used  in  salads  in  the  same  way  as 
Celery.  We  are  unable  to  give  you  the  details  of  preserving,  but  presume 
they  are  much  the  same  as  for  Lettuce  stalks  and  ginger.  If  any  of  our 
readers  can  supply  the  necessary  particulars  for  preserving  Angelica,  we 
will  readily  publish  them. 
Paris  Green  as  a  Winter  Dressing  for  Pruit  Trees  (A.  P.  has 
been  found,  by  many  trials  and  carefully  conducted  experiments,  that 
Paris  green,  applied  to  the  stems  and  branches  of  fruit  trees  in  October, 
has  absolutely  no  effect  on  the  eggs  of  the  winter  moth.  There  is  nothing 
to  equal  the  caustic  soda  and  crude  potash  wash  for  cleansing  branches 
of  filthy  incrustations  when  the  trees  are  in  a  dormant  state  (see  reply 
to  “Pat”).  We  are  glad  you  have  found  Paris  green  in  other  ways 
so  beneficial  to  your  trees.  Thousands  of  winter  moths  have  been 
caught  by  sticky  bands  applied  towards  the  end  of  October  or  early  in 
November. 
Chemical  Manure  for  Strawberries  (//enton).— Nitrate  of  soda, 
2  cwt.;  dissolved  bones,  5  cwt.;  kainit,  10  cwt..  This  very  full  dressing  per 
acre  should  be  applied  as  follows  The  kainit  and  phosphate  in  autumn, 
pointing  in  lightly  ;  nitrate  of  soda  sown  broadcast  in  the  following  spring 
after  the  plants  are  well  started,  but  before  any  bloom  appears,  having  it 
crushed  fine,  and  taking  care  to  apply  the  nitrate  when  the  leaves  are 
quite  dry.  (irdinarily  half  the  amounts  quoted  suffice  per  acre.  We  have 
used  a  mixture  of  bone  superphosphate  and  kainit  in  equal  parts  in  autumn 
at  the  rate  of  b  cwt.  per  acre,  and  2^  cwt.  of  nitrate  of  soda  in  the  spring, 
with  good  results,  esijecially  on  light  land. 
Destroying  Weeds  and  Moss  with  Arsenical  Preparation  (A  T.).— 
Dissolve  1  lb.  of  powdered  arsenic  in  3  gallons  of  cold  water,  boil,  and 
keep  stirring;  then  add  7  gallons  of  cold  water  and  2  lbs. 'of  cru.shed 
soda.  Stir  the  whole  well  whilst  boiling,  and  with  a  rose  watering-pot 
apply  to  the  walks  in  dry  weather,  from  March  to  May  inclusive  being 
the  best  time.  The  above  quantity  will  be  enough  for  25  square  yards. 
An  inclining  board  should  be  placed  at  the  sides  of  the  walks  or  grass  to 
keep  off  the  hot  liquid.  If  you  have  Box  edgings  the  soda  and  arsenical 
solution  must  be  kept  from  them,  otherwise  they  will  be  killed.  Caution  : 
Very  poisonous.  There  are  other  methods  of  preparation,  but  why  not 
obtain  a  ready-made  weed  killer? 
Mushrooms  in  Pastures  (./.  T.  The  insertion  of  Mushroom 
spawn  in  ])astures  has  been  attended  with  good  results  in  some  cases,  but 
without  success  in  many  others.  Both  the  soil  and  weather  must  be 
favourable  for  the  growth  of  the  Mushroom  jdant  within  the  soil.  The 
best  practice  is  to  prepare  some  manure  as  described  in  “Mushrooms  for 
the  Million;  ”  and  from  the  middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of  June,  just  as 
dry  weather  prevails,  or  a  prospect  of  it  is  likely,  take  out  squares  of 
turf  about  3  inches  deej)  and  the  size  of  a  spade,  removing  sufficient  soil 
to  admit  of  a  large  forkful  of  the  manure,  and  in  the  centre  of  this  place 
about  a  quarter  of  a  brick  of  spawn,  replacing  the  turf  at  once  and 
treading  and  beating  it  down  to  make  hard  and  level  as  before  removal. 
Elevated  parts  of  the  ground  are  better  than  damp  hollows.  Crushing 
and  sowing  spawn  over  a  field  to  the  extent  of  a  bushel  or  so  provides 
the  requisite  legal  conditions  for  prosecuting,  as  any  Mushrooms  that 
appear  are  then  regarded  as  “  cultivated,”  though  the  process  itself  does 
not  bring  them.  A  dressing  of  salt  b  cwt.  jier  acre  in  February  has  been 
followed  by  abundance  of  Mushrooms,  and  also  benefits  pastures,  espe¬ 
cially  in  dry  districts.^  “  Mushrooms  for  the  Million  ”  can  be  obtained 
by  post  from  the  publisher,  171,  Fleet  Street,  London,  in  return  for  Is.  2d. 
in  stamps. 
Lfli'ge  Beans  (No  Name). — It  is  contrary  to  the  rules  of  the  Journal  of 
Horticulture  to  insert  communications  from  correspondents  who  withhold 
their  names  and  addresses  from  the  Editor,  though  the  names  of  WTiters 
are  never  published  against  their  wishes.  It  is  not,  of  course,  necessary 
for  regular  contributors  to  sign  their  names  on  each  MS.,  as  they'  are 
perfectly  well  known. 
Freaks  of  Fungi  (J.  SmitK). — The  small  Mushroom-like  specimen  you 
send  is  exactly  the  shape  of  those  familiar  round  bread  loaves  with  a 
small  “naggin”  on  the  top.  You  may  call  it,  if  you  like,  a  Mushroom 
two  storeys  high.  When  the  small  tubercular  growths  form  in  a  dense 
mass  some  of  them  get  displaced  by  the  pressui'e,  and  occasionally  become 
piled  one  on  the  other,  those  elevated,  if  I’esting  closely',  being  supported 
through  the  tissues  of  others  below. 
Artificial  Manure  for  Black  Currants  (//.  T.).— Sulphate  of  ammonia, 
^  cwt.  ;  dried  blood,  J  cwt.  ;  fish  meal,  |  cwt.  ;  dissolved  raw  bones,  dry 
and  crumbling,  2  cwt.  ;  muriate  of  potash,  1  cwt. ;  these  =  4  cwt.  Apply 
now,  or  after  the  late  autumn  or  early  winter  pruning,  forking-in  lightly. 
For  use  as  soon  as  the  buds  commence  swelling  in  the  Bjiring  -  nitrate  of 
soda,  ^  cwt.,  and  mineral  superphosphate,  37  per  cent.  soluWe  phosphate 
of  lime,  5  cwt.,  distributing  evenly  when  the  ground  is  moist.  The  dress¬ 
ing  is  for  1  acre.  The  dressing  is  a  full  one,  half  sufficing  if  only 
moderate  growth  is  wanted. 
Keeping  Catillac  Pears  (A.  G.  G.).—A  sweet  cold  cellar  inclining  to 
be  damp  would  be  better  for  the  fruits  than  a  very  dry  room.  We  have 
more  than  once  found  fruits  of  this  Fear  that  have  passed  the  winter 
among  the  grass  of  an  orchard  as  sound  in  the  spring  as  when  they  fell 
from  the  trees  six  months  previously.  This  is  mentioned  as  proving  the 
hardiness  of  the  “  Iron  ”  Fear.  "We  have  known  the  fruits  to  shrivel  in 
very  dry  rooms.  If  y'ou  keep  yours  firm  they  will  realise  more  money 
in  the  spring  than  at  the  present  time.  There  is  not  infrequently  a  good 
demand  for  them  in  March  and  April. 
Apple  for  Forming  a  Screen  (A.  TV.). — A  gardener  who  has  practised 
at  an  altitude  of  nearly  700  feet  above  sea  level  says:— The  closest 
growing,  hardiest  Apple  for  forming  a  screen  to  the  north  was  Hunthousc, 
a  rather  small  tree,  with  somewhat  pendulous  growths,  of  immense 
productiveness.  The  trees  w'ere  3  feet  apart,  cut  hard  hack,  and  grown 
exactly  like  a  Thorn  hedge,  only  the  knife  was  used  instead  of  a  bill  or 
shears.  Inside  this  was  another  hedge  of  Carlisle  Codlin,  7  feet  6  inches 
from  it,  a  free-growing  variety  when  young,  but  bearing  early,  soon 
getting  hedge  like,  and  that  gave  fruit  in  abundance  from  August  to 
December.  The  outer  hedge  was  kept  4  feet,  and  the  inner  6  feet  high. 
In  another  place,  but  in  one  hedge,  he  had  Manx  Codlin,  fruit  in  season 
August  till  November  ;  Minchull  Crab,  November  to  March  ;  and 
Northern  Greening  or  “  Robin,”  November  to  April,  the  object  being  to 
get  a  long  succession  of  useful  culinary  fruit ;  but  the  trees  did  not 
succeed  well  so  mixed,  as  the  Northern  Greening  outgrew  the  others. 
As  the  result  of  his  exiierience  he  recommends  -  for  a  low  screen,  Manx 
Codlin  on  English  Paradise  ;  tree  very  hardy,  remarkably  ..healthy, 
early  and  abundant  bearer.  For  a  medium-sized  screen. — Minchull 
Crab,  also  on  English  Paradise  ;  tree  very  hardy,  not  subject  to  canker 
or  plagues  of  insects,  and  an  abundant  bearer.  For  a  large  screen. — 
Northern  Greening  on  English  Paradise  ;  tree  very  hardy,  strong  grower, 
and  abundant  bearer.  Distance,  2,  3,  and  4  feet  respectively.  Perhaps 
some  of  our  correspondents  can  improve  upon  the  three  varieties,  but  the 
condition  is  they  must  be  of  undoubted  hardiness. 
Growths  on  Vines  (Pat). — The  small  warts,  or  excrescences,  are 
caused  by  the  piercing  of  the  tissues  of  the  Vine  at  the  junction  between 
spur  and  rod,  where  there  are  probably  aerial  roots,  by  the  beaks  of  the 
Grape  Vine  louse  (Phylloxera  vastatrix).  There  are  present  in  the 
rough  parts  the  hibernating  form,  a  most  remarkable  thing,  and  pro¬ 
bably  a  consequence  of  the  whole  border  being  “  sour  and  bad,”  so  much 
so  with  w'etness  that  the  insect  chose  to  hibernate  on  the  rods  rather  than 
on  roots,  as  usual.  Of  course,  there  are  other  things  belonging  to  this 
most  disastrous  insect  pest  of  the  Grape  Vine,  and  we  are  going  to  tell 
of  a  very  simple  mode  of  killing  it.  1,  Remove  the  warts,  or  excres¬ 
cences,  such  as  those  you  sent  us,  and  burn  them;  prune  early,  and  then 
dress  every  part  of  the  Vines  above  ground  with  the  following  solution  — 
Caustic  soda,  98  per  cent,  purity,  2  ozs.  ;  crude  commercial  potash 
(carbonate  o'  potash,  or  pearlash),  2  ozs.;  water,  gallon.  Dissolve 
each  separately  in  a  pint  of  water,  add  together,  then  the  remainder  of 
the  water  boiling.  Apply  with  a  clean  half-worn  i)aint  brush,  reaching 
well  into  every  angle,  hole,  and  crevice,  the  solution  being  at  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  130°  to  140°,  and  not  used  exces&ivel}',  but  taking  care  to  wet 
every  part  of  the  rods  and  spurs.  Loose  bark  may  be  removed,  but  do  not 
peel  the  rods  or  spurs  into  the  quick  or  live  bark,  (lai'efully  collect  and 
burn  all  the  primings  and  peelings.  Having  attended  to  the  rods,  rake  off 
any  loose  surface  material,  not  injuring  the  roots,  and  char  it  on  the 
rubbish  heap.  Then  water  the  border  with- a  solution  of  Little's  soluble 
l>henyle,  1  part  to  9(5  parts  of  rain  or  soft  water  — that  is,  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  to  3  gallons  of  water,  and  apply  with  a  rose  watering  can,  giving 
the  amount  quoted,  or  3  gallons  per  square  y'ard  of  the  solution  duly 
stirred,  then  a  milk-like  preparation.  The  soil  must  be  moderately 
moist,  so  that  the  solution  will  enter  and  moisten  the  whole  evenly,  without 
having  to  give  an  extra  dose  to  effect  it.  It  will  not  matter  if  the  soil  be 
already  wet,  for  the  solution  will  force  the  excess  water  out  or  take  its 
place.  The  pest  chiefly  acts  on  the  young  roots  near  the  surface,  and 
especially  near  the  stems  or  collars,  therefore  apply  from  these  out¬ 
wards,  but  to  every  part  of  the  border.  The  solution  of  soluble  phenyle 
may  be  used  again  just  before  the  Vines  start  into  growth.  It  acts  as  a 
manure,  which  will  show  itself  in  the  Vines  next  year.  Caution  ;  No 
other  form  of  jihenyle  or  phenol  may  be  used,  it  being  absolutely 
imperative  that  this  be  soluble. 
