348 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October '7,  1897. 
one  part  peat  broken  into  lumps,  one  part  sand,  charcoal,  and  potsherds 
broken  small,  with  an  addition  of  artificial  manure,  and  place  back  in  the 
same  temperature  until  they  are  well  established,  when  a  cooler  tempera¬ 
ture  will  suffice. 
Plenty  of  water  must  be  given  them,  and  they  are  benefited  by 
occasional  waterings  with  liquid  manure.  They  require  shading  from 
the  bright  sun,  also  abundant  syringings  amongst  the  pots,  but  only 
lightly  on  the  foliage.  Two  good  climbing  varieties  are  plumosus  and 
tenuissimus.  Deflexus  is  very  useful  for  hanging  baskets,  as  also  is 
Sprengeri.  The  growths  of  the  latter  when  young  hold  themselves  erect, 
and  gradually  arch  over  as  they  grow  older,  until  they  are  straight  down. 
It  is  also  the  best  variety  for  cutting,  as  it  preserves  its  vitality  a  great 
deal  longer  than  the  others.1  Two  good  dwarf  varieties  are  plumosus 
nanus  and  albanense. 
Mealy  bug  is  the  worst  enemy,  and  may  be  removed  by  occasional 
dippings  in  the  case  of  the  dwarf  varieties,  and  syringing  the  tall  with  a 
weak  paraffin  insecticide,  as  the  small  pinnules  will  not  stand  a  strong 
dose. — Elveden. 
Carnations  in  Beds. 
Carnations  are  now  recognised  by  many  growers  as  the  most  useful 
plants  for  either  beds  or  borders,  as  with  a  good  collection  abundance  of 
flowers  may  be  had  for  a  long  period.  Where  cut  flowers  are  in  demand 
Carnations  are  of  grfeat  value  for  either  house  or  table  decoration  when 
tastefully  arranged  with  their  own  grass  and  made  to  look  as  light  as 
possible. 
It  is  advisable  where  possible  to  devote  a  special  bed  to  their  culture, 
as  far  better  results  are  obtained  than  when  planted  in  a  mixed  border. 
If,  however,  this  system  is  necessary  a  good  compost  ought  to  be  prepared 
for  them.  Autumn  planting  is  the  best  in  most  cases,  as  it  saves  the 
trouble  of  wintering  in  pots,  and  is  undoubtedly  advantageous  to  the 
plants,  which  become  established  and  start  growing  much  better  than 
those  wintered  in  pots.  The  beds  may  be  made  large  enough  for  from 
four  to  six  rows  of  plants,  with  a  path  on  each  side. 
As  regards  the  mixture  of  soil,  no  rule  can  be  specially  given.  The 
cultivator  must  examine  the  natural  staple,  and  should  this  be  of  a  light 
sandy  nature  it  will  be  found  suitable  after  a  top-dressing  of  wood  ashes, 
lime,  and  soot,  which  should  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  surface  soil 
when  dug.  If  the  soil  is  found  to  be  stiff  and  clayey  apply  a  top-dressing 
of  sandy  loam  and  lime  rubbish  in  addition  to  the  above.  As  soon  as  the 
layers  are  sufficiently  rooted  they  may  be  carefully  separated  from  the 
old  plants,  placed  in  boxes,  and  be  firmly  planted  in  rows  18  inches  apart 
each  way.  Always  keep  the  beds  free  from  weeds,  and  apply  a  mulching 
of  half-decayed  manure,  which  will  help  to  protect  the  roots  in  winter  and 
prevent  the  surface  from  becoming  too  dry  in  the  summer. 
As  soon  as  the  flower  buds  appear  an  occasional  application  of  liquid 
manure  and  soot  water  will  be  found  beneficial.  The  flower  stems  will 
also  require  staking,  so  as  to  display  the  flowers  and  prevent  them 
getting  soiled. — J.  E.  D. 
[By  all  means  send  the  notes  on  Carnations  in  pots,  as  if  thoroughly 
practical  they  will  be  of  service  to  many  young  growers.] 
HAEDY  ERUIT  GARDEN. 
Gathering  and  Storing  Fruit. — The  gathering  of  Apples  and  Pears 
should  be  continued  as  the  various  varieties  become  ready.  Most  of 
them  are  sufficiently  matured  when  the  pips  are  of  a  dark  brown  or  black 
colour.  Any  fniits  that  are  not  easily  detached  from  the  spurs  may 
remain  on  the  trees  longer.  It  is  seldom  that  every  fruit  on  a  tree  is 
ready  at  one  time.  In  gathering  avoid  bruising  the  fruits  as  much  as 
possible.  Store  in  single  layers  on  clean  boards  or  slates  in  a  dark  cool  room 
or  proper  fruit  room.  Windfalls  ought  not  to  be  placed  with  sound  fruit, 
or  indeed  in  the  same  compartment.  Damaged  fruits  decay  quickly, 
sooner  or  later  emitting  odours  which  may  prove  inimical  to  sound  fruits, 
especially  those  approaching  ripeness. 
Plums. — The  later  varieties  of  dessert  Plums  may  now  be  gathered, 
wrapped  in  tissue  paper,  and  stored  in  a  dry  place  where  they  will  keep 
for  some  time.  The  varieties  thus  treated  include  Coe’s  Golden  Drop, 
Ickworth  Imperatrice,  Blue  Imperatrice,  and  Reine  Claude  de  Bavay, 
Filberts  and  Cob  Nuts. — Nuts  must  be  gathered  in  the  driest  weather, 
preferably  after  several  days  of  wind  and  sun,  so  that  the  husks  may  be 
dry.  After  gathering  lay  out  the  nuts  thinly  in  an  airy  structure  to  dry 
out  every  particle  of  moisture,  and  then  store  in  jars,  pressing  the  nuts 
closely  together,  excluding  air  with  tightly  fitting  lids. 
_  Strawberries. — Strawberries  may  still  b»3  planted,  but  the  plants 
inserted  ought  to  be  those  which  have  been  well  prepared,  either  in  small 
nursery  beds,  or  allowed  sufficient  space  to  develop  good  crowns  and 
abundant  roots  between  the  rows  of  established  plants.  Plenty  of  strong 
pl^ts  are  now  obtainable  where  a  liberal  clearance  of  superfluous  runners 
weeds  were  carried  out  before  any  were  crowded. 
Only  the  strongest  plants  should  be  employed  now  for  permanent  planting. 
The  smallest  may  be  inserted  6  inches  apart  in  beds  for  the  winter, 
planting  finally  in  spring.  Well  cultivated  and  liberally  manured  ground 
should  be  selected  for  Strawberries. 
Trimming  Old  Beds. — From  force  of  circumstances  or,  it  may  be, 
neglect.  Strawberry  beds  are  occasionally  left  until  this  late  period  before 
runners  are  cut  away  and  weeds  removed.  Prom  such  beds,  owing  to  the 
rank  growth,  there  will  be  few  young  plants  of  any  value.  Therefore, 
with  a  sharp  knife,  sever  all  attachment  with  the  old  plants.  There  is 
then  a  clear  course  for  hoeing  up  the  weeds  and  runners.  This  is  a 
rough-and-ready  method,  applicable  to  the  special  conditions,  but  inferior 
to  an  earlier  clearance  of  superfluous  growths  between  the  rows. 
Mulching. — A  liberal  dressing  of  well  decayed  manure  spread  between 
the  plants  will  prove  of  substantial  service  in  affording  nutriment  for 
the  roots,  and  assisting  the  plumping  up  of  bold  crowns  for  the  next 
season’s  crop.  It  is  not  desirable  to  mulch  young  plants  at  this  season, 
inasmuch  as  they  are  able  to  find  adequate  support  in  the  soil. 
Young  Plantations. — A  final  clearance  of  runners  inay  be  given  to 
recently  planted  beds,  after  that  a  Dutch  hoeing  will  be  beneficial. 
Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines. — In  order  that  the  wood  of  these  choice 
stone  fruit  trees  may  attain  to  a  well  ripened  condition,  the  whole  of  the 
bearing  wood  which  has  produced  the  fruit  this  season  ought  to  be  care¬ 
fully  pruned  out.  Sun  and  air  are  then  permitted  to  reach  the  growths 
from  their  point  of  origination  to  their  extremities.  W eakly  or  worn-out 
branches  may  also  be  removed.  If  at  any  point  the  retained  or  succession 
shoots  appear  to  be  crowded,  and  room  cannot  be  found  for  the  whole  of 
them,  cut  out  the  ill-placed,  crooked,  or  otherwise  irregular  growths. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  prune  now  in  a  full  and  complete  manner,  but  only 
so  far  as  to  admit  sun  and  air  freely.  Branches  and  shoots  crowded  in 
one  part  and  not  in  another  may  be  temporarily  regulated,  finally  over¬ 
hauling  and  pruning  away  all  that  is  necessary  previous  to  the  late 
winter  tying-in  or  nailing. 
Thinning  out  Wall  Tree  Branches.— The  mistake  is  frequently  made 
of  allowing  the  main  branches  of  wall  trees  to  remain  arranged  too  closely 
together.  Now  that  the  foliage  is  present  is  an  excellent  opportunity  to 
rectify  such  an  error.  It  may,  in  the  case  of  horizontally  trained  trees, 
be  necessary  to  remove  every  other  branch,  even  at  the  risk  of  leaving 
the  remainder  rather  wider  apart  than  is  essential.  A  foot  distance 
asunder  for  the  branches  is  suitable,  and  few  trees  do  well  and  bear  freely 
when  the  branches  are  at  a  less  distance.  Ean-trained  trees,  too,  are 
frequently  crowded.  Some  of  the  weakest  and  partially  exhausted 
branches  may,  in  their  case,  be  removed,  regulating  the  remaining  at 
proper  distances. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — A  structure  devoted  to  Cherries  is  not  common,  but 
no  fruit  proves  more  useful  for  dessert  in  the  spring.  The  house  for 
Cherries  should  be  light,  well  ventilated  top  and  bottom,  and  efficiently 
heated  ;  a  lean-to  or  three-quarter  span  facing  south  for  early  forcing,, 
or  a  span  roof  with  the  ends  north  and  south  for  affording  fruit  in  May 
and  June.  The  trees  may  be  trained  to  a  trellis  fixed  12  inches  from 
the  glass,  border  inside,  and  not  made  all  at  once.  A  4  to  6  feet  width 
of  border,  according  to  the  size  of  the  trees,  is  sufficient  to  commence 
with,  draining  it  with  rubble  9  inches  deep,  and  on  that  a  3  inch  thickness 
of  old  mortar  rubbish.  From  20  to  24  inches  depth  of  soil  is  ample,  but 
deeper  at  first  to  allow  for  settling.  Good  turfy  loam,  preferably  rather 
strong  lime  rubbish  from  an  old  building  one-fifth,  and  a  sixth  of  road 
scrapings,  form  a  suitable  compost.  The  trees  may  be  planted  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  fall.  Those  trained  to  walls  four  to  six  years,  and  in  a 
fruitful  healthy  state,  also  recently  lifted  so  as  bear  removal  safely  and 
without  check,  are  the  most  suitable.  The  border  being  put  together 
compactly  and  the  trees  firmly  planted,  following  with  a  good  watering, 
and  mulching  with  a  little  stable  manure,  will  give  a  fair  crop  the  first 
season.  The  most  suitable  varieties  are  Early  Rivers,  Governor  Wood, 
and  Black  Tartarian.  The  roof-lights  should  be  taken  off  and  remain  so 
till  the  beginning  of  next  year. 
Cherries  are  readily  forced  in  pots,  and  give  a  long  succession  of  fruit. 
The  house  may  be  heated  for  forcing,  or  a  cool  one,  well  ventilated,  and  as 
the  trees  ripen  their  crops,  they  can  be  placed  outdoors.  The  trees  should 
be  secured  at  once,  and  if  they  require  a  shift  into  larger  pots,  attend  to 
it  without  delay,  disentangling  the  roots  at  the  sides  of  the  ball,  and  cut¬ 
ting  back  any  straggling  and  thick  ones.  Provide  good  drainage,  and 
ram  the  soil  firmly.  Trees  that  are  in  as  large  pots  as  desired  need  only 
have  the  drainage  rectified  and  the  surface  dressed  ;  or  the  drainage  may 
be  cleared  away,  a  few  inches  from  the  base  removed,  the  roots  shortened 
back,  and  fresh  soil  given  as  advised  for  borders,  with  a  fifth  of  well- 
decayed  manure,  removing  also  the  loose  surface  material  and  supplying 
rich  compost.  For  forcing  in  pots.  Early  Rivers,  Belle  d’Orleans,  Empress 
Eugenie,  Governor  Wood,  Black  Tartarian,  Black  Eagle,  Elton,  and 
Mammoth  are  good.  For  a  cool  house.  Belle  d’Orleans,  Early  Rivers, 
Early  Red  Bigarreau,  Empress  Eugdnie,  Bigarreau  de  Schreken,  Governor 
Wood,  May  Duke,  Black  Eagle,  Archduke,  Nouvelle  Royale,  Florence,  and 
Late  Duke.  Those  are  compact  growers,  and  the  following  large  growers  : 
Early  Jaboulay,  Black  Tartarian,  Bohemian  Black  Bigarreau,  Elton, 
Reine  Hortense,  Bigarreau,  Bigarreau  de  Mezel,  Mammoth,  Duchesse 
de  Palluau,  Bigarreau  Napoleon,  Belle  Magnifique,  and  Tradescant’s 
Heart. 
Cucumbers. — The  latest  plants  which  are  to  afford  a  supply  of  fruit 
about  the  new  year  should  be  placed  out  on  ridges  or  hillocks,  training 
with  a  single  stem  to  the  trellis,  up  which  they  may  be  allowed  to  advance 
two-thirds,  when  pinch  off  the  lead.  Those  not  having  the  convenience 
of  a  Cucumber  house  may  secure  fair  supplies  of  winter  fruit  by  growing 
the  plants  in  pots  or  boxes,  training  the  growths  near  the  glass  over  the 
paths  in  stoves,  fruiting  Pine  houses,  or  other  well-heated  structures. 
