October  7,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  ANU  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
340 
Plants  in  bearing  should  not  be  overcropped,  or  the  fruit  allowed  to 
remain  longer  than  it  is  fit  to  cut,  removing  all  deformed  fruit  in  a 
young  state.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  70°,  5°  less  in  the  morningj 
75°  by  day,  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun,  admitting  a  little  air  at  the  top  of 
the  house  at  every  favourable  opportunity,  and  keeping  the  evaporation 
troughs  charged  with  liquid  manure,  floors  damped  with  water  about 
8  A.M.  and  4  p.m.,  dispensing  with  the  syringe  over  the  plants.  Reduce 
the  supply  of  water  at  roots,  but  not  so  much  so  as  to  cause  flagging.  A 
little  sweetened  manure  sprinkled  on  the  beds  occasionally  will  benefit 
the  plants  through  the  waterings,  washing  their  elements  into  the  soil 
and  the  ammonia  given  off,  but  this  must  not  be  excessive,  or  the  foliage 
will  be  injured.  Keep  the  foliage  thin  and  the  glass  clean,  so  as  to  secure 
thoroughly  solidified  growths. 
Melons. — The  end  of  the  Melon  season,  as  regards  those  grown  in 
frames  and  pits  heated  with  fermenting  materials,  is  approaching,  though 
fairly  good  fruit  may  be  had  up  to  November,  especially  of  kinds  that 
will  keep  some  time.  Any  fruits  approaching  ripeness  should  be  cut 
with  a  good  portion  of  stem,  and  placed  in  a  house  with  a  gentle  warmth, 
where  they  will  ripen,  and  be  welcome  additions  to  the  dessert. 
From  houses  a  supply  of  fruit  will  be  kept  up  some  time  longer,  the 
latest  fruits  only  swelling  now.  Sufficient  moisture  will  be  secured  to 
this  crop  b}'  damping  in  the  morning,  and  again  early  in  the  afternoon, 
affording  water  to  the  roots  moderately  ;  a  supply  once  a  week  will  in 
most  cases  be  sufficient.  All  superfluous  laterals  should  be  cut  out,  so  as 
to  afford  the  principal  foliage  the  benefit  of  the  autumn  sun.  Tlants  with 
fruit  approaching  ripeness  should  be  kept  dry,  and  a  brisk  heat  main¬ 
tained  with  rather  free  venfilation,  the  temperature  being  kept  at  65°  at 
night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  rising  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  beat,  affording  a 
little  air  at  the  upper  part  of  the  roof  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  trees  are  at  rest, 
bright  and  promising  in  appearance,  the  buds  not  too  large  or  over¬ 
developed,  and  likely  to  retain  their  hold  on  the  trees.  Where  the 
roof-lights  have  been  removed  the  borders  will  have  been  thoroughly 
moistened,  and  this,  with  the  invigoration  consequent  on  exposure,  is  the 
best  safeguard  against  the  buds  falling.  The  trees  must  be  pruned  and 
dressed  with  an  insecticide,  thoroughly  washing  the  woodwork  with  soap 
and  water,  the  glass  with  clear  water,  and  the  walls  with  liniewash.  Tie 
the  trees  to  the  trellis,  everything  being  forwarded  so  that  a  start  can  be 
made  without  delay  at  the  proper  time.  Let  the  lights  remain  off'  until 
the  time  of  closing  the  house.  If  the  lights  are  fixed  the  inside  border 
must  not  lack  moisture,  and  air  must  be  given  to  the  fullest  extent,  insur¬ 
ing  thereby  as  complete  rest  as  practicable  under  the  circumstances. 
Second  Early  House. — The  trees  have  shed  the  leaves.  Trees  that  have 
strong  wood,  which  takes  more  time  to  mature  than  the  moderately 
vigorous,  must  not  be  exposed  until  the  growths  and  foliage  are  well 
matured.  The  exposure  of  the  trees  has  an  invigorating  effect,  insures 
perfect  rest,  and  the  rains  do  much  to  free  them  of  insects,  besides 
properly  moistening  the  borders.  When  the  foliage  is  all  down  the 
necessary  pruning,  dressing  the  trees  with  an  insecticide,  and  cleansing  the 
house  should  be  proceeded  with,  removing  the  loose  surface  soil  down  to 
the  roots,  and  adding  fresh  material,  but  not  covering  the  roots  deeper 
than  2  or  3  inches.  In  the  case  of  fixed  roof-lights  watering  may  be 
necessary  ;  under  no  circumstances  must  the  trees  be  allowed  to  become 
dry  at  the  roots.  • 
Midseasun  Houses. — If  the  trees  are  in  a  satisfactory  condition  the 
border  will  be  sound,  but  when  indifferent  in  fertility  it  may  be  necessary 
to  have  recourse  to  lifting,  the  wood  being  firm  and  the  foliage  beginning 
to  fall.  It  must  be  done  with  dispatch,  all  the  materials  being  in  readi¬ 
ness.  Provide  efficient  drainage,  shorten  strong  roots,  and  hiing  any  that 
are  deep  near  the  surface,  employing  the  compost  moderately  firm.  Good 
loam,  rather  strong,  with  an  admixture  of  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish, 
will  grow  Peaches  perfectly.  If  the  soil  be  light  add  a  fourth  of  clay 
marl,  and  if  very  heavy,  a  similar  quantity  of  road  scrapings.  If  the  soil 
is  deficient  of  calcareous  matter  add  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish.  Avoid 
manure,  except  at  the  surface.  Give  a  good  watering,  and  the  roots  will 
soon  get  established  in  the  fresh  compost.  Trees  judiciously  treated 
at  the  roots  whilst  they  have  foliage  seldom  fail  to  set  and  stone  the 
fruit  satisfactorily. 
Borders  that  have  the  surface  a  soapy  mass,  and  it  is  not  possible  to 
remove  it,  may  have  a  good  dressing  of  quicklime  quite  an  inch  thick, 
mixing  it  with  the  surface  soil  as  deeply  as  the  roots  allow  without  much 
disturbance,  supplying  quickly  acting  top-dressings  in  the  s|)ring. 
Zafe  FfoMses.— October  Peaches  are  quite  as  much  valued  as  those  of 
May,  as  they  are  fine  in  appearance,  and  when  properly  supplied  with 
moisture  and  nutriment  dui’ing  the  growing  season  juicy  and  well 
flavoured.  Sea  Eagle  is  one  of  the  best— large,  showy,  good  flavoured, 
with  a  juicy  flesh,  free  of  the  stringiness  and  mealiness  too  prevalent  in 
some  late  Peaches.  As  the  wood  in  many  late  unheated  houses  is  not 
too  ripe,  the  house  may  be  kept  almost  closed  by  day  so  as  to  secure  a 
good  heat,  admitting  sufficient  air  to  insure  a  circulation,  continuing  the 
ventilation  at  night.  Any  trees  that  have  too  gross  wood  should  have  a 
trench  taken  out  as  deep  as  the  roots  and  about  one-third  the  distance 
from  the  stem  the  trees  cover  of  trellis,  and  left  open  for  a  fortnight,  then 
filled  in  again  firmly. 
Pines.  Plants  Showing  Fruit. — These  will  be  valuable  when  fruit  is 
scarce  and  dear,  therefore  afford  such  ])lants  the  best  positions  in  the 
fruiting  department.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  70°  at  night,  75°  arti¬ 
ficially  by  day,  up  to  85°  to  90°  with  sun,  closing  at  85°,  sprinkling  the 
paths  when  their  surfaces  become  dry,  and  occasionally  the  plants  on  fine 
afternoons.  Keep  the  bottom  heat  steady  at  85°  to  90°.  Examine  the 
plants  once  a  week  for  watering,  and  if  any  require  it  afford  a  supply  of 
clear  liquid  manure  at  about  the  same  temperature  a$  that  of  the  beds, 
Care  must  be  taken  not  to  overwater  the  fruiters,  as  that  has  a  tendency 
to  cause  the  fruit  when  cut  to  be  black  at  the  centre. 
Plants  to  Fruit  Early. — Queens  are  best  for  this  purjmse,  but  there  is 
not  always  a  certainty  of  their  doing  so  unless  they  are  given  a  period  of 
comparative  rest  after  making  good  growth.  Plants  intended  for  starting 
at  the  new  year  should  be  kept  in  a  temperature  of  about  6*5°  in  the  day¬ 
time  by  artificial  means,  60°  at  night,  ventilating  at  70°,  closing  at  that, 
and  allowing  the  bottom  heat  to  fall  to  70°  to  75°.  Water  the  plants  only 
when  necessary,  but  do  not  allow  them  to  become  so  dry  as  to  cause  the 
foliage  to  become  limp. 
Young  Plajits.  —  A\\  young  stock  should  now  be  arranged  so  as  to 
obtain  the  fullest  benefit  of  light  and  air.  As  the  sun  diminishes  a 
corresponding  diminution  of  temperature  must  take  place  at  night,  until 
it  reaches  the  winter  standard  of  55°  to  60°  at  night,  and  65°  in  the 
daytime.  Ventilate  freely  whenever  conditions  are  favourable,  paying 
particular  attention  to  watering.  Examine  plants  about  once  a  week,  and 
whenever  one  needs  water  give  it  copiously  at  about  the  same  temperature 
as  the  bed. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums.— These  should  be  housed  without  delay,  or  injury 
from  frost  may  result.  After  the  plants  are  placed  under  glass  syringe 
them  freely,  or  their  foliage  will  be  liable  to  suffer  by  the  dry  atmosphere 
of  the  structure.  Slugs  are  frequently  carried  into  the  houses  with  these 
plants.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  look  over  the  pots  carefully  with  a  light 
several  nights  in  succession  to  remove  any  that  show  themselves.  Slugs 
may  destroy  some  of  the  best  blooms,  while  they  prey  injuriously  upon 
the  cuttings  at  a  later  date.  If  aphides  are  prevalent  fumigate  the 
bouse  with  tobacco  smoke.  They  are  much  easier  destroyed  at  the 
present  time  than  when  the  plants  are  in  full  bloom.  Once  the  flowers 
are  infested  with  these  pests  they  are  soon  sjjoiled,  and  rendered  useleFS 
for  any  purpose.  Late  kinds  that  are  grown  for  cutting  purposes  only 
may  be  kept  outside;  but  the}’  should  be  placed  where  slight  protection 
can  be  given  them  in  ease  of  frost.  If  these  jdants  are  to  keep  their 
foliage  healthy  the  roots  must  be  kept  at  w'ork  near  tlje  surface,  and 
then  those  grown  for  large  blooms  will  develop  flowers  of  the  best  (jiiality. 
This  can  be  accomplished  by  applying  stimulants  in  a  weak  state,  and 
artificial  manure  in  small  quantities  to  the  surface  soil  occasionally.  Flat 
blooms  that  are  both  void  of  colour  and  substance  are  fre(|uently  the 
result  of  overfeeding,  which  destroys  the  roots  ;  unless  the  latter  are 
thoroughly  active  until  the  last  well-finished  blooms  cannot  be  e.xpected. 
Earwigs  are  often  numerous,  and  they  must  be  carefully  watched 
for,  as  they  soon  devour  the  petals  and  destroy  the  blooms.  Give 
abundance  of  air  to  plants  placed  under  glass,  so  that  the  flower  buds 
ai'e  not  unduly  hurried  forward.  It  is  also  the  best  means  of  preventing 
damping  in  those  expanding. 
Calceolarias.  —  The  earliest  of  these  may  be  placed  into  3  or  4-inch 
]>ots,  according  to  their  size.  Grow  these  plants  in  a  cold  frame,  but 
watch  for  slugs,  which  are  particularly  fond  of  them.  Later  plants  may 
be  pricked  into  pans  and  boxes  according  to  the  quantity  grown.  These 
may  now'  have  a  light  airy  frame,  and  will  do  better  than  if  kept  in  one 
with  a  northern  aspect. 
Cinerarias.  The  earliest  plants  of  these  will  be  coming  into  flower 
and  will  be  useful  in  the  conservatory.  Later  plants  that  need  more 
root  room  should  be  repotted  at  once.  It  is  useless  to  repot  those  that  are 
already  showing  their  flower  stems.  Those  for  flowering  in  spring  should 
be  well  cared  fV)r,  because  they  are  invaluable  when  the  majority  of 
bulbous  plants  are  over.  These  plants  will  do  for  some  time  in  cold 
frames.  Give  them  abundance  of  air  daily,  and  leave  a  little  on  the  frames 
all  night  when  mild.  The  watering  of  these  plants  should  now  be  done 
in  the  morning.  To  those  in  their  flowering  pots  that  are  well  filled  with 
roots  weak  stimulants  may  be  given.  Soot  water  in  a  clear  state  is  very- 
beneficial  to  them.  Watch  for  aphides  and  destroy  them  directly  they 
make  their  appearance. 
Lilium  Harris!. —This  is  a  useful  decorative  plant  when  in  bloom,  and 
ought  to  be  grown  in  quantity.  Medium  sized  bulbs  should  be  placed  in 
6-inch  pots  that  are  well  drained.  The  compost  may  consist  of  fibry 
loam  three  parts,  the  remaining  i)art  being  composed  of  leaf  mould  and 
sand  ;  to  this  may  be  added  one-seventh  of  decayed  manure.  In  potiing 
the  bulbs  must  be  just  covered.  If  the  soil  is  moderately  moist  no  water 
should  be  given.  Stand  the  ]iots  in  a  cold  frame  and  fill  the  spaces  between 
them  with  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse,  covering  the  surface  with  about  2  inches 
of  the  same  material.  Failing  this  fine  ashes  will  answer  the  same 
purpose.  When  subjected  to  this  treatment  evaporation  is  prevented  and 
the  bulbs  soon  commence  to  root  and  grow.  As  soon  as  they  show 
through  the  plunging  material  remove  the  plants  to  the  greenhouse  and 
apply  water.  If  grown  in  (juantity  a  low  cool  airy  house  will  suit  them 
well,  or  they  may  be  placed  on  shelves  moderately  close  to  the  glass. 
From  one  potting  a  long  succession  of  bloom  may  be  obtained  if  proper 
treatment  is  given. 
Callas.— If  these  are  still  in  the  open  they  should  be  lifted  without 
delay,  well  watered,  and  stood  behind  a  north  wall  until  root  action  has 
commenced,  when  place  in  their  winter  quarters.  Solanums,  Bouvardias, 
Salvias,  and  other  plants  that  are  outside  should  be  lifted  and  treated  in 
the  same  way  until  they  are  established.  If  there  is  any  appearance  of 
frost  while  the  plants  are  outside  protect  them  by  covering  with  mats. 
Ivy-leaved  Pelargoniums. -Plants  that  have  been  well  ripened  will, 
if  placed  under  glass  where  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  can  be  main¬ 
tained,  soon  come  into  flower.  If  the  plants  have  been  standing  outside 
they  should  have  cool  airy  treatment  for  a  week  or  two  and  then 
gradually  kept  close.  Those  well  ripened  under  glass  and  recently  potted 
will  in  gentle  warmth  soon  come  into  flower.  Those  for  spring  flowering 
