OetoVier  14,  1897. 
372  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
finely  sifted  material,  water  with  a  fine  rose  to  settle  the  soil,  and  then 
cover  the  pan  with  a  [liece  of  shaded  glass  to  prevent  evaporation.  A 
temperature  ranging  from  60°  to  70°  is  suitable,  and  the^  soil  should  he 
kept  moist,  though  not  wet.  The  seedlings  will  appear  in  from  five  to 
siv  weeks,  wlien  the  covering  may  be  removed  and  the  jian  placed  close  to 
the  glass,  and  shaded  from  strong  sun  with  a  piece  of  thin  piijier.  During 
bright  weather  damp  the  seedlings  two  'or  three  times  a  day  with  a  very 
fine  rose. 
This  treatment  will  ju-ove  satisfactory  until  the  plants  have  made  four 
leaves,  when  they  must  be  removed  to  a  temperature  of  40°  to  45°,  still 
keeping  near  the  glass.  Let  them  remain  in  this  position  until  early  in 
February,  then  remove  again  to  the  higher  temperature,  continuing  the 
same  cultural  details.  By  the  beginning  of  Mai'c  h  the  plants  will  be 
ready  for  potting.  Preserve  every  root,  and  secure  a  little  ball  of  soil  to 
each  plant.  Two-and-a-half  inch  ])Ots  answer  best  for  this  potting,  and 
they  must  be  thoroughly  clean  and  well  drained.  The  com])Ost  may' 
consist  of  good  fibrous  loam  and  leaf  mould  in  equal  parts,  with  coarse 
sand  and  a  4-inch  potful  of  Thomson’s  manure  to  a  barrowload  of  soil. 
Alway's  pot  lightly,  and  let  the  conn  project  about  half  way  out  of  the 
soil.  After  potting,  water  with  a  fine  rose  to  settle  the  soil  about  the 
conn,  and  again  place  near  the  glass  in  the  same  temperature,  keeping 
shaded  from  strong  sun,  and  sprinkling  the  plants  twice  daily  in  bright 
weather. 
In  about  seven  or  eight  weeks  the  plants  will  be  ready  for  a  shift  into 
a  4j  or  5- inch  pot,  according  to  the  size  of  the  corm.  The  compost  may 
be  the  same  as  recommended  for  the  previous  potting,  with  the  addition 
of  a  fourth  of  old  Mushroom  bed  manure  to  a  barrowload  of  soil.  Again 
place  as  close  to  the  glass  as  possible,  and  continue  to  damp  the  plants 
on  bright  days.  By  the  end  of  duly  or  early  in  August  the  jdants  will 
be  ready  to  transfer  to  their  flowering  pots.  After  potting,  ]ilace  the 
plants  in  an  easterly  or  northerly  as])ect,  giving  as  much  light  as  possible. 
Shade  from  strong  sun,  and  s])rinkle  occasionally  until  the  middle  of 
August,  after  which  this  must  cease.  Avoid  wetting  the  corm  when 
watering,  as  if  this  is  done,  the  leafstalks  are  liable  to  damp  and  spoil 
both  the  flowers  and  the  appearance  of  the  ]dant.  Flower  sjiikes  should 
show  in  September  or  October,  when  the  plants  may  be  removed  to  the 
conservatory  to  flower,  which,  with  attention,  they  will  do  until  the  end  of 
March.  The  flowers  should  not  be  cut,  but  pulled  out  with  the  thumb 
and  finger. 
After  the  jdants  have  done  flowering  ])re|)are  a  frame  in  the  following 
manner: — Place  plenty  of  old  bricks  and  rubble  in  the  bottom  to  insure 
good  drainage,  then  a  foot  de])th  of  com])Ost  similar  to  that  recommended 
for  the  final  potting  of  seedlings,  bringing  this  close  to  the  glass.  Turn 
the  plants  out  of  their  pots,  partly  shake  away  the  soil,  and  plant  out  into 
the  prepared  frame,  allowing  plenty  of  room  for  the  plants  to  develop. 
The  best  Cyclamens  I  ever  saw  wei'e  planted  out  on  a  Vine  border,  but 
it  was  an  exceptionally  good  summer.  Water  well  after  planting  to 
settle  the  soil  about  the  roots,  and  after  the  plants  start  into  growth 
sprinkle  on  bright  days.  Towards  the  end  of  August  lift  the  plants 
carefully,  preserving  every  root  possible ;  pot  into  suitable  sized  pots  and 
place  in  a  pit  or  frame  kept  rather  close  for  a  few  days,  afterwards 
removing  to  a  house  with  a  temperature  of  50°  to  60°,  and  keep  near  the 
glass.  If  these  instructions  are  followed  there  will  in  the  dark  days  of 
winter  be  Cyclamens  which  will  be  a  pleasure  to  all  concerned.— -.I.  C., 
Lancashire. 
WOKK.^oii.the  WEEK. 
— T!!_- 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Win&s.— Earliest  Vines  in  Pots. — Well  managed  Vines  in  pots  produce 
useful  Grapes,  and  often  better  than  Vines  planted  in  borders,  from  the 
conditions  of  culture  being  more  favourable.  This  is  the  case  where  the 
Vines  are  given  bottom  heat.  To  insure  success  the  canes  must  be  strong, 
thoroughly  ripened,  and  duly  rested.  As  a  start  must  be  made  about  the 
1st  of  November  to  have  ripe  Gra]>es  in  March  or  early  in  April,  the  tree 
leaves  and  stable  litter  should  be  in  course  f  [(reparation  for  affording  a 
mild  sweet  bottom  heat.  The  heat  about  the  pots  should  not  exceed  65"  at 
the  start,  bringing  up  the  fermenting  material  to  the  level  of  the  pots  by 
degrees,  so  as  to  augment  the  temperature  to  70°  to  75°  by  the  time  the 
Vines  are  in  leaf.  Any  Vines  in  ])Ots  reipiired  for  starting  later  shoidd 
be  placed  under  cover,  an  open  shed  with  a  north  aspect  being  suitable  ; 
but  the  pots  must  he  nrotected  with  dry  hay  or  straw,  and  mice  and  rats 
kept  down,  or  the  animals  may  render  the  Vines  useless  by  girdling  them 
at  the  collar. 
Vines  for  Starting  in  December. — Pruning,  if  not  already  done,  must 
not  be  farther  delayed,  as  early  and  complete  rest  for  a  few  weeks  con¬ 
tributes  to  an  even  break.  Pruning  to  two  buds  is  usually  followed  by  a 
good  show  of  useful  bunche.';,  but  if  such  has  not  been  so  in  [(revious 
years,  or  larger  bunches  are  desired,  the  shoots  may  be  left  a  little  longer, 
or  pruned  to  the  most  [(romising  eye  nearest  the  base.  What,  however, 
is  gained  in  size  of  bunch  is  usually  lost  in  compactness  thereof,  uneven¬ 
ness  of  berries,  and  bad  finish.  Besides,  bunches  of  1  to  2  lbs.  weight  are 
(juitc  large  enough  for  early  Grapes.  Remove  any  loose  bark,  but  avoid 
the  close  peeling  and  scra]nng  that  injures  the  rods,  and  wash  them  with 
tepid  soapy  water,  4  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  following  where  there  has 
been  red  spider  with  a  solution  of  2  ozs.  caustic  soda,  and  2  ozs.  pearlash 
to  gallon  of  water,  or  where  there  has  been  fungi  trouble,  use  a 
solution  of  sulphate  of  copper  1  oz.  to  I2  gallon  of  water;  apply  carefully, 
but  just  wetting  every  part  with  a  brush  moistened  in  the  solution. 
Thoroughly  cleanse  the  woodwork  of  the  house  and  limewash  the  walls. 
Remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  if  not  to  the  whole  extent  of 
the  border,  for  a  distance  of  3  or  4  feet  from  the  stem,  and  supply  fresh 
loam  so  as  to  encourage  new  fibres,  and  an  extension  of  fresh  roots  from 
the  collar,  adding  about  a  quart  of  steamed  bonemeal  and  a  gallon  of 
wood  ashes  to  each  3  bushels  of  loam,  or  supply  some  approved  fertiliser, 
according  to  the  instructions.  Keep  the  house  cool,  dry,  and  airy  until 
the  time  arrives  for  starting. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Grapes. —  Thin-skinned  Grajies  are  more  susceptible  to 
cold  and  damp  than  are  the  thick-skinned  varieties.  This  applies 
equally  to  Black  Ilamburghs  and  similar  kinds  as  to  ^lufcat  of 
Alexandria  and  Madresfield  Court,  but  Ilamburghs  do  not  require  a 
temjjerature  of  over  45°  for  good  keeping,  and  there  must  not  be  any 
deficiency  of  moisture  at  the  roots,  otherwise  the  Grapes  will  shrivel. 
Remove  all  dead  and  decayed  leaves  from  the  Vines  where  Grapes  are 
now  hanging,  and  look  over  the  bunches  for  any  shanked  or  decayed 
berries  and  burn  them.  A  temperature  of  50°  is  the  most  suitable  for 
Muscat  of  Alexandria.  Lose  no  opportunity  of  giving  air  when  the  days 
are  fine,  turning  on  the  heat  so  as  to  cause  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes, 
not  so  much  to  dry  the  atmosphere  as  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air,  which 
is  the  best  safegdiard  against  damp.  Turn  off  the  heat  at  midday,  or  soon 
after,  so  as  to  allow  the  pipes  to  cool,  but  not  so  as  to  lower  the  tempera¬ 
ture  below  the  night  minimum.  When  the  heat  falls  too  low  and  the 
temperature  is  raised  moisture  condenses  on  the  berries,  and  being 
stagnant  the  skin  of  the  (J  rapes  is  more  or  less  decomposed,  and  fungal 
germs  find  a  medium  of  germination  and  soon  setup  speedy  decay.  There 
is  no  harm  in  a  low  night  temperature,  the  fault  lies  in  not  giving  air 
soon  enough,  so  that  the  heat  from  the  hot-water  pipes  or  sun 
expands  the  atmosphere,  and  the  moisture  is  deposited  on  the  berries  as 
well  as  on  the  glass.  In  dull  weather,  especially  during  fog,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  a  genial  warmth  in  the  pipes,  bnt  the  house  closed,  in 
which  case  the  moisture  will  be  condensed  on  the  glass  instead  of  the 
Grapes. 
Late  Grapes. — Thick-skinned  Grapes  re([uire  time  to  mature  after  they 
are  ripe,  though  Alicante  improves  nothing  whatever  in  keeping,  and  is 
at  its  best  as  soon  as  well  ripened,  and  the  same  maybe  said  of  Gros 
Maroc.  Airs.  Fince  is,  perhaps,  the  best  quality  late  Grape  with  a  thick 
skin,  as  it  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  to  finish,  and  is  at  its  best 
shortly  after  being  ripe.  Its  great  defect  is  not  colouring  well  up  to  the 
stalk,  and  it  makes  no  difference  whether  the  bunches  are  large  or  small. 
It  also  loses  colour  more  than  any  other  late  Grape,  becoming  quite  red, 
but  will  hang  as  long  as  any  other,  and  retain  its  excellent  quality 
even  in  a  shrivelled  condition.  Started  early,  say  in  March,  the  berries 
set  better,  and  the  fruit  ripens  quite  up  to  the  shank,  and  when  covered 
with  its  fine  bloom  is  very  taking  in  appearance.  Alicante  retains  its 
colour  well,  and  as  a  prelude  to  Gros  Colman  is  a  very  desirable  Grape, 
as  it  is  good  in  quality,  the  vinous  flavour  being  very  refreshing,  and  the 
earthiness,  as  in  Gros  Colman.  entirely  absent,  whilst  its  appearance  is 
unrivalled  by  any  oval  Grape  except  Alnwick  Seedling,  which  is  one  of 
the  best  late  Grapes. 
The  magnificence  of  Gros  Colman  renders  it  popular,  as  that  goes  a 
long  way  even  with  table  Grapes,  and  is  all-important  for  market.  Its 
beautiful  appearance  whets  the  appetite,  and  the  flavour  is  entirely  over¬ 
looked,  as  that  beside  West’s  St.  Peter’s,  less  presumptuous  in  bunch  and 
berry,  is  comparably  bad  ;  yet,  when  stai'ted  early,  so  as  to  allow  it  time 
to  mature,  the  berries  are  not  only  superb,  but  the  quality  is  vastly 
imju’oved.  But  its  principal  value  consists  in  the  easiness  of  its  growth  ; 
the  bunches  ai'e  always  compact,  the  berries  set  well,  they  swell  to  a  good 
size,  and  w'hen  the  Vines  are  not  overcropped,  they  colour  well.  It 
is  far  the  best  in  ([uality  when  grown  on  the  old  red  sandstone  formation, 
though  it  does  well  on  the  alluvial  silts,  as  do  all  the  coarse  vinous  Grapes. 
For  rich  vinous  quality  no  thick-skinned  Grape  can  vie  with  West’s  St. 
Peter’s,  but  it  is  of  no  use  where  appearance  at  table  is  the  chief  merit  in 
a  Grape. 
Lady  Downe’s  is  not  only  the  best  kee[)ing  Grape  (we  have  had  it 
excellent  in  .lune),  but  is  unexcelled  by,  any  late  Grape  for  uniform 
excellence  in  quality,  though  only  about  half  as  taking  in  appearance  as 
Gros  Colman,  and  not  giving  nearly  so  much  weight  of  fruit  per  length  of 
A’ine ;  it  retains  its  richness  to  the  last,  simply  becauie  it  contains  more 
sugar,  and  mostly  has  a  “  smack  ”  of  Muscat.  In  white  Grapes  there  are 
some  aspirants  for  fame,  but  none  takes  a  higher  place  than  Trebbiano 
for  ajjpearance  sake,  while  being  firm,  crisp,  and  sweet.  There  is  Airs 
Pearson  standing  well  out  in  the  white  Grapes,  and  having  quality,  as 
well  as  other  desirable  properties;  but,  as  a  rule,  the  black  Grapes 
hold  the  sway  when  neither  Aluscat  of  Alexandria  or  Canon  Hall 
Aluscat  are  in  the  race.  There  must  be  no  deficiency  of  moisture  in 
the  border,  and  the  atmosphere  not  allowed  to  become  stagnant,  but 
have  enough  warmth,  with  air,  to  keep  it  in  motion,  the  temperature 
not  being  allowed  to  fall  much  below  50°  until  the  leaves  fall. 
Vines  not  Ripening  the  Wood.  —  Any  that  are  not  yet  hard  and  brown 
in  the  wood  should  have  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65’^  by  artificial  means, 
with  a  little  air  constantly.  The  heat  from  sun  influence  may  run  up  to  85° 
or  90°,  only  let  there  be  enough  air  to  insure  a  circulation.  The  laterals 
.should  be  reduced  l(y  degrees,  bringing  them  down  to  the  principal  buds  ; 
and  when  there  is  no  danger  of  starting  these,  the  shoots  may  be 
