396 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  21,  1897 
temperature  of  40°  to  45°  by  night.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  Grapes 
are  intended  for  later  use,  the  Vines  may  be  allowed  to  break  naturally 
without  the  aid  of  fire  heat.  Examine  the  border,  and  if  dry  lifford  a 
good  sujiply  of  tepid  water.  As  the  buds  begin  to  push,  raise  the 
temperature  to  50\  55°  by  night.  Slightly  syringe  the  canes  twice  a 
day,  and  as  growth  advances  raise  the  temperature  to  60°,  65°  by  night. 
Be  very  careful  in  giving  air,  as  a  sudden  rush  will  often  cripple  the 
tender  young  growths.  liOt  this  be  governed  by  the  outside  conditions 
of  the  weather,  admitting  very  little  at  first,  with  a  gradual  increase, 
until  the  ma.ximuin  which  is  thought  safe  is  reached.  Close  the  house 
early,  endeavouring  to  keep  a  genial  atmosphere,  and  the  Vines  free 
from  insect  pests.  Do  not  stop  any  of  the  growths,  neither  leader  nor 
laterals,  as  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  the  more  foliage  our  young  Vines 
make  the  more  roots  we  shall  have.  The  laterals  should  be  tied  to  the 
wires  as  growth  advances,  to  avoid  a  mass,  and  to  allow  the  sun  to  get 
at  the  wood  as  much  as  possible.  See  that  the  young  Vines  do  not 
suffer  from  lack  of  water,  but  do  not  afford  too  much,  or  it  may  make 
the  border  sour.  As  the  season  advances  gradually  harden  the  growth 
made,  but  d<''-not  on  any  account  remove  any  leaves.  All  the  leaves 
having  fallen,  rest  the  Vines,  allowing  plenty  of  air  day  and  night. 
Some  time  before  starting  the  house,  in  the  second  year,  which  should 
he  one  month  earlier  than  in  the  first,  the  young  canes  must  be  cut  off 
to  within  2  feet  of  the  wires,  the  laterals  being  pruned  to  a  single  eye, 
dressing  the  wounds  with  either  knotting  or  styptic  to  prevent  bleeding. 
The  treatment  this  year  will  be  very  similar  to  last,  only  the  laterals  must 
be  stopped  at  four  or  five  leaves,  and  any  bunches  which  show  should  be 
pinched  off. 
The  Vines  ought  now  to  be  thoroughly  established.  In  pruning  during 
the  third  year,  cut  the  cane  to  about  8  feet  from  the  wire,  and  the  side 
shoots  to  the  first  good  eye.  Make  all  clean  by  thoroughly  washing  the 
glass  and  woodwork  of  the  house,  and  afford  the  Vines  a  dressing  of 
Gishurst  compound,  used  according  to  the  directions.  Slightly  fork  the 
surface  of  the  border,  giving  a  top-dressing  of  good  loam  in  which  a  little 
wood  ashes  and  soot  are  mixed.  Close  the  house  about  the  middle  of 
November  with  a  temperature  of  40°  to  45°.  Give  the  border  a  thorough 
watering  with  clear  water,  used  at  a  temperature  of  80°.  We  will  now 
leave  our  young  Vines  to  break, •and  endeavour  to  give  the  future  cultiva¬ 
tion  in  further  articles. — SskpER. 
WOKK,foi\.theWEEK..  ^ 
iSlI 
HAEDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Lifting  Fruit  Trees. — Young  trees  planted  in  the  course  of  recent 
years  frequently  develop  a  tendency  to  grow  too  vigorously,  making 
wood  growth,  and  showing  few  signs  of  forming  fruit  buds.  At  first  it 
is  desirable  to  encourage  considerable  freedom  in  the  formation  of  wood, 
so  that  the  trees  may  build  up  a  regular  and  substantial  framework  of 
branches.  After  a  certain  stage  such  freedom  of  growth  is  undesirable. 
Should  it  continue  and  thus  retard  the  fruiting  condition  being  reached, 
a  mild  and  judicious  check  may  advisedly  be  resorted  to.  Such  a  check 
as  lifting  and  replanting  will  probably  accomplish  the  object  sought  for. 
The  present  month  is  a  suitable  season  to  carry  out  the  operation, 
choosing  the  smaller  and  more  portable  of  the  trees  or  bushes  which 
require  checking.  Largo  and  unwieldly  examples  are  not  suitable  for 
this  form  of  treatment  owing  to  their  size  rendering  them  awkward  to 
move  about.  Another  objection  is  the  larger  extent  of  young  wood  and 
foliage  present,  which  complete  lifting  of  the  roots  might  cause  to  suffer. 
As  a  check  to  such  trees,  root-pruning  is  the  proper  method. 
Lifting  and  replanting  young  trees  at  the  proper  time  may  render  root- 
pruning  in  subsequent  years  unnecessary,  as  in  the  former  operation  it  is 
possible  to  carefully  cut  back  any  strong  descending  roots  and  regulate  the 
rest  in  a  spreading,  horizontal  direction.  Lifting  trees  is  adopted,  not  only 
as  a  check  to  exuberant  growth,  but  to  bring  the  roots  nearer  the  surface 
where  they  have  the  benefit  of  pulverised  and  aiirated  soil,  and  are  more 
easily  fed  and  watered.  The  operation  requires  to  be  carried  out  quickly. 
Fresh  soil  for  placing  among  the  roots  should  he  at  hand,  and  the  roots, 
especially  the  delicate  fibres,  ought  not  to  be  exposed  longer  than 
necessary  to  the  drying  influences  of  air.  In  adding  soil,  either  under  or 
among  the  roots,  compress  it  firmly.  Cut  smoothly  all  damaged  or 
bruised  ends  of  roots,  spreading  them  out  in  a  horizontal  direction  to  their 
full  extent.  Stake  each  tree  firmly,  and  mulch  over  the  roots  with  short 
littery  manure. 
Root-pruning  Fruit  Trees.  -The  fruitfulness  of  most  hardy  fruits 
largely  depends  on  the  character  of  the  roots.  Strong  roots  strike 
deeply,  and,  becoming  stronger  from  the  excess  of  moisture  available,  cause 
the  stems  and  branches  to  increase  in  size  more  rapidly  than  is  desirable. 
A  rich,  loose,  deep  root-run  favours  the  descent  of  roots  into  the  subsoil. 
A  firm,  but  fairly  rich  rooting  medium  induces  roots  to  spread  more  and 
partake  of  a  fibrous  character,  while  the  wood  produced  is  of  medium 
strength,  having  a  tendency  to  form  both  wood  and  fruit  buds  in  due 
]).ro])ortion. 
Trees  Requiring ^  Root-pruning. — An  unfruitful  condition  from  over- 
luxuriance  is  the  principal  indication  that  the  roots  should  be  checked. 
Root-pruning  must  be  carried  out  with  judgment,  and  only  with  trees 
that  can  produce  their  fibrous  roots  near  the  stem,  and  not  at  a  distance 
away,  as  in  the  case  of  trees  grafted  on  wildling  stocks.  Apples  on  the 
Raradise  stock,  Gheyries  on  the  Mahaleb,  and  Pears  on  the  Quince  have 
the  habit  of  '  reducing  their  best  roots  near  the  stems,  and  continue  to  do 
so  under  favourable  conditions  of  soil  and  position.  Unsuitable  treatment 
and  other  causes  may  encourage  roots  to  extend  beyond  a  desirable  radius 
or  to  descend  deeper  than  is  beneficial. 
affects  of  Root-pruning. — When  carried  out  judiciously  and  not  too 
severely  it  affords  a  check,  limiting  tlie  production  of  strong  sajtpy  wood, 
and  concentrating  the  energy  of  the  trees  in  the  more  liberal  formation 
of  fruit  buds. 
Approved  Methods.  -  The  method  of  carrying  out  root-pruning  consists 
in  first  cutting  a  trench  round  trees  3  or  4  feet  away  from  stems,  severing 
all  the  roots  found  to  a  fair  depth.  Roots  of  slender  size  and  fibrous  may 
be  preserved  intact  if  possible.  When  the  trench  has  been  excavated  to 
a  sufficient  depth,  undermine  the  ball  of  roots.  Cut  off  the  strong,  per- 
])endicular  roots  with  a  clean  transverse  cut  as  a  finish.  The  thick  roots 
entering  the  trench  from  the  side  of  ball  must  be  carefully  pruned  with  a 
cut  slanting  ui)ward.  No  roots  should  be  left  without  smoothly  pruning 
the  ends,  or  the  principal  object  of  root-pruning — the  emission  and 
multiplication  of  fibrous  roots — will  be  frustrated.  Roots  left  in  their 
damaged  state  by  the  rough  severance  of  the  spade  cannot  properly  heal 
and  send  forth  new  rootlets,  but  instead  they  die  back. 
When  root-pruning  must  necessarily  be  severe  to  effect  an  improve¬ 
ment  only  treat  half  the  roots  at  a  time,  leaving  the  remaining  half  for  the 
next  season. 
In  filling  in  the  soil  again  round  the  roots  add  a  little  fresh  compost 
to  the  old  material  and  compress  the  whole  firmly.  A  mulch  of  littery 
manure  spread  on  the  surface  over  the  roots  will  be  of  service. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  autumn  fruiters  being  in  full  bearing  must  not  be 
overcropped,  but  the  plants  will  bear  enormously  if  well  supplied  with 
nourishment.  Cut  the  fruit  directly  it  becomes  fit  for  use,  also  remove 
tendrils,  male  blossoms,  and  an  excess  of  fruit  blossoms  or  deformed 
fruits.  Supply  a  little  fresh  loam  to  the  surface  of  the  beds  as  often  as 
the  roots  appear,  and  let  it  be  wanned  through  before  using.  Examine 
the  plants  at  least  once  a  week  for  the  removal  of  bad  leaves,  and  for 
stopping  and  cutting  away  the  superfluous  growths.  Sweetened  horse 
droppings  sj)rinkled  on  the  beds  occasionally  act  as  a  gentle  excitant  to 
the  roots,  supply  nourishment  to  the  soil,  and  ammonia  to  the  atmosphere. 
Spare  no  eflort  to  keep  the  foliage  clean  and  healthy,  and  do  not  permit 
accumulations  of  dirt  on  the  glass. 
Allow  the  winter  fruiters  to  extend  well  up  the  trellis  before  stopping 
them  ;  train  the  shoots  right  and  left  at  about  1  foot  distance  apart, 
crowding  being  fatal  to  well-developed  foliage,  and  the  sturdier  the  plants 
are  grown  the  better  will  they  be  able  to  withstand  the  trying  ordeal  of 
continued  dull  or  prolonged  severe  weather.  Earth  the  roots  as  they 
protrude  from  the  hillocks  or  ridges,  supply  water  as  required,  not  less  in 
temperature  than  that  of  the  bed,  being  careful  not  to  overwater,  or 
allow  the  plants  to  lack  needful  supplies  of  that  element  and  liquid  manure,  • 
or  surfaee  dressings  of  fertilisers  washed  in.  Maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  65°  to  70  in  mild  weather,  60°  to  65°  when  the  nights  are  cold,  70  to 
75°  by  day  artificially,  advancing  to  80',  85°,  or  90°  with  sun  heat.  Admit 
a  little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable,  but 
avoid  cold  currents  ;  indeed  it  must  be  done  without  lowering  the 
temperature  or  drying  the  air  too  much,  and  lose  no  opportunity  of  closing 
early  in  the  afternoon  on  days  when  a  little  ventilation  has  been  given  in 
the  early  part  of  the  day.  On  dull  days  little  moisture  will  be  required, 
but  on  very  fine  days  the  plants  may  be  lightly  dewed,  and  the  floors 
and  walls  damped  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  also  when  much  fire 
heat  is  used  in  the  evening. 
Yigs.— Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots,  —  Trees  that  are  to  be  started 
gently  about  the  middle  of  November  to  afford  a  supply  of  ripe  fruit  at 
the  close  of  April  or  early  in  May,  will  now  need  to  have  the  wood 
brushed  over,  using  petroleum  softsoap,  4  ozs.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  apply¬ 
ing  the  solution  with  a  brush  at  a  temperature  of  120°  to  140°,  and 
reaching  every  part,  being  careful  not  to  rub  oS  the  embryonic  Figs,  or 
to  injure  the  shoots,  as  those  of  the  current  year  are  very  brittle.  If 
trees  have  to  be  purchased,  select  those  with  single  stems,  and  such  as 
have  not  been  hard  second  cropped,  thoroughly  ripe  in  the  wood,  and 
having  Fig  buds  in  evidence  of  cropping.  The  large  fruits  will  not  come 
to  anything,  it  is  the  small  rounded  fruit  or  buds  that  give  the  first  crop. 
The  trees  may  be  potted  if  they  require  a  shift,  but  let  it  be  small  ;  in 
fact  it  is  wisest  to  merely  cut  oS  the  drainage  portion  of  the  ball,  loosen 
the  soil  at  the  sides,  and  remove  the  loose  surface  soil,  shortening  any 
straggling  roots,  and  return  to  the  same  size  of  pot,  or  such  as  will  admit 
of  a  little  fresh  soil  under,  around,  and  over  the  ball,  all  pressed  as  firmly 
as  possible.  Figs  like  a  calcareous  soil,  say  three  jiarts  yellow  fibrous 
loam,  one  part  old  mortar  rubbish,  one  part  road  scrapings,  and  one  part 
stable  manure,  with  a  9-inch  potful  of  quarter-inch  bones  to  3  bushels  of 
the  compost,  and  a  similar  proportion  of  charcoal,  all  well  mixed.  Suitable 
varieties  for  early  forcing  are  St.  John’s,  Early  Violet,  Bingo  de  Mel, 
and  Brown  Turkey. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees, — Those  planted  in  borders  and  intended 
to  afford  ripe  fruit  at  the  end  of  May  or  e.s.rly  in  June,  they  being 
started  at  the  new  year,  must  now  be  untied  from  the  trellis  and  pruned. 
Trees  restricted  at  the  roots  to  firm  small  borders  will,  from  their  short- 
jointed  and  sturdy  growths,  require  little  more  in  the  shape  of  pruning 
than  thinning-out  the  shoots  where  too  crowded,  and  cutting  away  the 
