October  21j  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
397 
parts  which  have  reached  the  extremities  of  the  trellis,  and  become  bare 
of  fruitful  wood.  Those  not  having  the  roots  restricted  will  require  hard 
pruning  at  the  upper  part  of  the  trellis,  allowing  room  for  the  growth 
of  the  successional  branches  ;  but  severe  pruning  only  induces  stronger 
and  less  fruitful  growths.  Such  trees  should  be  lifted,  and  have  the  roots 
confined  to  narrower  well-.drained  borders  of  firm  soil.  Eemove  the 
surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  pick  out  the  old  soil  from  amongst  them 
carefully,  and  supply  a  top-dressing  of  fresh  loam,  with  some  old  mortar 
rubbish  added  and  intermixed.  Ventilate  fully  at  all  times,  except  when 
frost  prevails,  and  at  such  times  heat  should  only  be  used  to  exclude  it, 
though  the  trees  will  not  take  any  harm  unless  the  weather  is  very 
severe. 
Succession  Houses.  —When  the  leaves  have  fallen  prune  the  trees  and 
well  wash  them  with  a  soapy  solution,  using  a  brush,  which  will  do  much 
to  dislodge  the  insects,  and  after  the  woodwork  and  walls  have  been 
scalded  with  hot  water,  keeping  it  off  the  trees,  the  latter  may  be  dressed 
with  an  insecticide  and  the  walls  limewashed.  Complete  any  root- 
pruning,  lifting  and  laying  the  roots  in  fresh  compost.  Tig  trees  with 
the  roots  restricted  are  more  manageable  and  fruitful  than  those  with  an 
unlimited  rooting  area,  therefore  lift  and  root-prune  any  unfruitful  trees, 
and  restrict  the  roots  to  moderate  sized  borders,  making  the  soil  firm, 
and  employing  good  loam  with  a  sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish  and  a 
similar  amount  of  road  scrapings,  good  drainage  being  afforded. 
Late  House.  —The  trees  should  have  the  wood  cut  out  that  has  borne 
fruit  and  is  no  longer  required,  and  any  trees  having  a  tendency  to  cast 
their  fruit  through  over-luxuriance  should  be  lifted  and  have  the  borders 
lessened  so  as  to  restrict  the  roots.  When  the  leaves  fall  the  trees  must 
be  unloosened  from  the  trellis,  and  being  tied  together  they  should  be 
made  safe  against  frost  by  placing  a  little  hay  or  straw  amongst  them 
and  covering  them  with  the  latter  or  mats,  for  trees  in  cool  houses  suffer 
nearly  as  much  from  frost  as  those  against  walls  outdoors.  The  roots 
near  the  collar  are  better  with  a  slight  protection  of  dry  material. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Eorced  Trees. — Where  the  supply  of 
fruit  in  late  April  or  early  in  May  is  from  trees  of  Stirling  Castle  and 
Royal  George  Peaches,  Lord  Napier  and  Stanwick  Elruge  Ne  darines, 
forcing  must  commence  in  earnest  at  the  beginning  of  December.  The 
trees,  therefore,  must  be  got  into  proper  order  without  further  delay,  not, 
however,  putting  on  the  roof-lights  to  make  things  comfortable,  as  they 
are  better  off  until  the  time  stated,  and  there  are  favourable  opportunities 
for  attending  to  the  necessary  work,  though  it  is  better  do'.e  as  soon  as 
the  trees  become  leafless. 
Succession  Houses,  —When  the  leaves  are  all  down,  there  not  being  any 
forcible  means  taken  to  secure  that  end  until  they  part  freely  from  the 
trees,  unfasten  the  trees  from  the  trellis,  and  prune  them,  also  thoroughly 
cleanse  the  house,  washing  the  trees  with  soapy  water  and  following 
with  an  insecticide,  secure  them  to  the  trellis,  leaving  room  for  the 
branches  to  swell,  as  tight  tying  is  one  of  the  most  prolific  sources  of 
gumming.  Clear  away  the  loose  surface  soil  or  mulching,  pick  some  of 
the  old  soil  from  amongst  the  roots  and  sujiply  fresh  rather  strong  loam. 
If  the  roof-lights  are  not  moveable,  give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  to  the 
inside  borders,  and  do  not  allow  them  to  become  dry  during  the  resting 
season,  ventilating  fully.  It  is  better,  however,  to  remove  the  roof-lights, 
and  let  the  rain  cleanse  and  refresh  the  trees,  also  moisten  and  enrich 
the  soil  through  to  the  drainage.  Attend  to  any  lifting,  or  the  intro¬ 
duction  of  fresh  trees,  as  this  work  and  root-pruning  should  be  performed 
before  the  leaves  have  dropped,  yet  the  wood  ripe  and  the  buds  plumped. 
Trees  for  planting  in  hojses  are  best  two  or  three  years  trained  to  walls, 
and,  lifted  in  the  preceding  year,  they  transplant  with  an  abundance  of 
fibres,  and  can  be  forced  very  well  the  first  year  if  not  started  until 
January,  not  brought  on  too  rapidly,  and  not  overcropped.  Trees,  how¬ 
ever,  that  have  been  grown  under  glass  have  the  wood  better  ripened, 
and  are  more  suitable  for  early  forcing.  If  young  trees  must  be  planted, 
select  such  as  have  no  trace  of  gum,  but  are  clean  in  growth,  not  very 
strong  in  the  w'ood,  shapely,  not  over-furnished  with  branches.  The 
sooner  they  are  planted  after  they  are  in  a  fit  condition  the  better. 
Late  Houses.  -  Cut  away  the  non-extensi  n  wood  that  has  l)orne  fruit, 
as  well  as  other  growths  not  required,  as  this  lets  daylight  reach  those 
that  are  left,  and  nothing  is  so  prejudicial  as  too  much  wood  in  late 
houses.  Any  trees  in  an  unsatisfactory  condition  should  be  lifted  as  soon 
as  the  leaves  commence  falling,  laying  the  roots  in  fresh,  firm,  sound 
material. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Allamandas. — These  will  continue  to  flower  for  some  weeks  longer, 
provided  they  are  liberally  supplied  with  stimulants.  Plants  grown  in 
pots  will  be  crowded  with  roots,  and  a  dressing  of  decayed  manure  on  the 
surface  will  help  them  to  develop  their  flowers ;  in  addition  to  liquid 
manure  frequently,  artificials  may  be  applied  to  the  surface.  If  the 
plants  are  not  well  supplied  with  food  the  flowers  will  be  small  and  only 
poorly  developed.  Growths  that  have  done  flowering  should  be  thinned 
out,  so  that  the  energy  of  the  plants  may  be  devoted  to  the  development 
of  the  flower  buds  that  are  formed.  Light  will  also  be  admitted  to  the 
occupants  beneath  and  also  to  the  flowers,  which  will  be  of  a  brighter 
colour. 
Gesneras. — Be  careful  not  to  water  these  on  their  foliage  or  they 
will  be  browned  and  disfigured.  At  this  period  of  the  year  until  they 
come  into  flower  they  do  best  on  a  shelf  fairly  close  to  the  glass,  M'here 
a  good  heat  and  a  fair  amount  of  moisture  is  maintained.  Give  these 
plants  clear  soot  water  every  time  they  need  water.  Be  careful  not 
to  allow  them  to  become  dry  ;  on  the  other  hand  they  should  not  be 
kept  wet. 
Tydaeas.— Those  that  are  coming  into  flower  may  be  removed  to 
the  sto\e  proper,  but  they  should  have  the  driest  position  or  the  foliage 
will  damp.  The  remaining  portion  of  the  stock  may  be  given  the 
treatment  advised  for  Gesneras.  Spring-flowering  kinds  of  the  Madame 
Heine  type  that  do  not  make  underground  stems  may  have  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  about  50°.  These  do  best  standing  on  some  moisture-holding 
material. 
Crotons. — Plants  that  are  needed  for  room  decoration  should  be 
given  slightly  cooler  treatment  than  the  main  stock  of  Crotons. 
When  well  hardened  these  plants  last  in  such  positions  for  a  very  much 
longer  period  of  time  ;  in  fact,  double  the  length  of  time  than  when 
removed  from  a  close  moist  structure  where  a  high  temperature  is  main¬ 
tained.  Growth  should  now  be  complete,  and  no  attempt  must  be 
made  to  force  those  plants  to  grow.  Young  leaves  made  at  this  season 
rarely  colour,  and  if  used  in  rooms  before  these  are  developed  they 
invariably  flag  and  frequently  fall  off. 
Acalyphas. — Plants  grown  for  winter  decoration  in  rooms  should 
not  be  kept  too  warm,  or  they  will  continue  to  grow  and  the  young 
leaves  flag  when  removed  to  cooler  and  more  draughty  quarters.  These 
plants  should  occupy  an  intermediate  structure  where  air  can  be  given 
daily.  This  not  only  prevents  further  growth  but  hardens  the  plants  so 
that  they  bear  room  decoration  fairly  well  for  a  time  without  losing 
their  foliage.  For  the  conservatory  in  summer  these  plants  will  in 
future  replace  Coleus  altogether.  When  properly  grown  for  this  purpose 
they  stand  well  and  are  much  more  effective,  being  choicer  in  appear¬ 
ance  than  Coleus.  Plants  that  have  become  shabby  may  be  cut  down 
and  placed  in  heat  to  break.  Keep  them  on  the  dry  side  at  first  or 
the  roots  will  perish. 
Poinsettias. — The  earliest  plants  will  have  commenced  to  show  their 
bracts,  and  these  may  have  a  temperature  of  65°.  The  plants,  if  strong 
and  well  grown,  will  develop  large  bracts  in  this  temperature.  Keep 
them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible  ;  on  this  depends  whether  the  bracts 
are  brilliant  in  colour  or  the  reverse.  Teed  with  weak  stimulants  every 
time  water  is  needed.  Later  plants  should  be  kept  at  60°  with  a  little 
air  daily  until  growth  is  completed,  when  the  temperature  may  lie 
raised.  If  kept  too  warm  before  the  completion  of  growth  the  plants 
often  start  growing,  and  only  poor  bracts  are  produced. 
Euphorbia  jacquiniseflora, — Keep  plants  at  55°  to  60°  until  they 
display  their  flower  buds  ;  if  the  growths  have  not  been  well  ripened  and 
are  kept  too  warm  they  will  start  into  growth  instead  of  flowering. 
Once  they  do  this  all  chance  of  their  blooming  satisfactorily  is  over.  Do 
not  over  water  these  plants,  for  they  are  very  liable  to  go  off  at  their 
roots  if  kept  too  wet.  Justicia  flavicoma,  not  yet  showing  flower,  may 
have  the  same  treatment.  Plants  that  are  showing  flower  may  be  brought 
into  bloom  in  the  temperature  advised. 
Celosias. — Plants  that  have  been  kept  in  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60° 
to  bring  them  into  flower  should  be  carefully  and  gradually  hardened 
before  they  are  placed  in  the  conservatory.  When  forced  in  heat  and 
removed  direct  to  a  lower  temperature  they  are  liable  to  damp  off  just 
above  the  soil.  When  care  is  taken  to  harden  them  they  should  be 
watered  judiciously,  and  then  they  will  last  a  long  time. 
s  ■■  — 
s 
m  BEE-KEEPER. 
- . 
^  (r^  f 
Notks  from  the  Heather, 
In  this  county  of  broad  acres  there  is  a  wide  expanse  of  Heather, 
and  within  thirty  miles  of  my  apiary  there  are  thousands  of  acres 
that  in  the  season  form  a  mass  of  bloom,  a  very  small  percentage  of 
which  is  visited  by  the  bees.  Although  bee-keeping  has  advanced 
by  leaps  and  bounds  during  the  past  quarter  of  a  century,  it  is 
an  acknowledged  fact  that  less  honey  is  now  obtained  from  the 
Heather  than  was  formerly  the  case.  As  the  honey  obtained  from 
this  source  is  often  preferred  to  any  other,  it  would  appear  at  first 
sight  as  if  apiculture  was  declining  in  this  country ;  but  that  such 
is  not  the  case  we  have  amp  e  proof.  What,  then,  is  the  reason 
that  so  few  bee-keepers  now  send  their  bees  to  the  moors  so  as  to 
obtain  a  surplus  from  the  Heather  ? 
It  is  owing  to  the  unfavourable  weather  usually  experienced 
when  the  Heather  is  in  bloom  and  the  honey  flow  at  its  height. 
The  past  season  has  not  been  an  excention,  as  from  our  own  observa¬ 
tions  and  reports  to  hand  from  bee-keepers  who,  after  great  expense 
and  labour  in  taking  their  bees  to  the  moors,  pronounce  the  yield  as 
nil.  This  is  the  more  disappointing  after  the  bright  weather 
experienced  in  July  and  early  in  August.  Owing  to  the  excessive 
heat  the  Heather  was  a  few  days  earlier  than  usual  in  coming  into 
bloom.  Under  these  favourable  conditions  more  bees  than  usual 
were  sent,  with  the  result  as  stated  above.  This  was  caused  by  a 
rapid  change ;  high  winds  and  a  low  temperature  prevailed,  the 
much-needed  rain  for  all  vegetation  throughout  the  country  came  down 
in  torrents,  and  with  it  the  bee-keeper’s  hopes  fell  to  zero. 
The  unfavourable  weather,  from  a  bee-keeper’s  point  of  view, 
continued  until  the  early  days  of  September,  when  there  was  a  sudden 
change  to  bright  sunshine  again.  Too  late,  however,  for  the  bees  to 
derive  any  benefit  from  the  Heather,  Such  being  the  case,  nothing 
remained  but  to  bring  the  bees  home  again,  and  as  the  hoped-for 
profits  from  the  Heather  had  all  evaporated,  the  bees  in  most  instances 
