418 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October  28,  1897. 
When  Figs  are  gathered  they  should  be  handled  by  the  footstalk 
whenever  this  is  practicable,  as  being  very  soft  they  are  easily  disfigured 
and  made  untit  for  table  or  exhibition.  For  packing  Figs  we  find 
nothing  better  than  the  leaves  of  the  Runner  Bean,  their  own  leaves 
being  rough  are  quite  unsuitable  for  it. 
The  standard  variety  grown  in  England  is  Brown  Turkey,  being  a 
sure  cropper  ;  fruits  of  medium  size  and  very  luscious.  A  good  large 
variety  is  Negro  Largo.  As  its  name  implies,  it  is  nearly  black,  of  hand¬ 
some  appeai-ance,  but  inferior  in  fiavour  to  Brown  Turkey.  For  outdoor 
culture  Brunswick  is  an  excellent  variety,  coming  into  use  in  September. 
— YoUNCrSTEK. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
vines. — Earliest  Vines  in  Pots. — Many  lovers  of  Grajies  do  not 
appreciate  the  thick-skinned  varieties,  and  desire  thin-skinned  Grapes  at 
all  times.  In  that  case  it  is  better  to  take  the  early  supply  from  Vines 
in  pots  than  to  start  the  permanently  planted  Vines  at  a  very  early 
period.  Vines  in  pots  produce  fruit  little  inferior  to  that  borne  by  others 
planted  out,  and  often  superior  to  that  produced  by  those  having  the  roots 
in  inside  borders,  and  always  better  than  when  the  borders  are  wholly 
outside.  Success  in  early  forcing  is  more  certain  where  there  is  convenience 
for  affording  bottom  heat,  the  canes  being  sufficiently  strong,  thoroughly 
ripened,  and  duly  rested.  The  materials  for  affording  bottom  heat,  such 
as  tree  leaves  and  stable  litter,  should  be  in  course  of  preparation.  The 
heat  to  begin  with  must  not  exceed  6.5°  about  the  pots,  augmenting  it  by 
bringing  up  the  fermenting  materials  to  the  level  of  the  pots  by  degrees, 
so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  to  70°  to  75"  when  the  Vines  are  in  leaf. 
We  advise  the  pots  to  be  stood  on  pillars  of  loose  bricks.  Let  the  Vines 
be  suspended  over  the  fermenting  materials  in  an  horizontal  pefsition  to 
induce  the  buds  to  break  evenly.  Sprinkle  the  canes  three  times  a  day, 
and  damp  every  part  of  the  house  at  the  same  time  in  bright  weather. 
In  order  to  induce  regularity  of  starting  a  somewhat  higher  temperature  is 
necessary  at  this  period  than  later  in  the  season,  50°  to  55°  at  night,  and* 
60°  to  65°  by  day  is  not  too  high  to  begin  with.  The  Vines  to  have  fruit 
ripe  in  April  must  be  started  early  in  November. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Fines.— Those  for  affording  fruit  at  the  end 
of  April  or  early  in  May  should  be  set  to  work  about  the  middle  of 
November,  not  later.  Thoroughly  moisten,  but  not  saturate  to  sodden¬ 
ness,  the  inside  border  at  a  temperature  of  90°,  and  in  the  case  of  weakly 
Vines  supply  liquid  manure.  This  enriches  the  soil,  even  conducing  to  a 
good  break  by  the  imperceptible  ferment  taking  place  in  the  soil  and  by 
increasing  the  supply  of  food.  If  the  border  or  floor  of  the  house  is 
covered  with  leaves  and  litter  in  a  state  of  fermentation,  occasionally 
turning  the  material  and  adding  fresh,  the  moisture  and  warmth,  also  the 
ammonia-charged  atmosphere,  are  very  beneficial  to  the  Vines,  and  make 
a  considerable  difference  in  the  fuel  used.  The  outside  border  must  have 
^  covering  of  leaves,  with  some  litter  or  fern  sloping  from  the  house 
outwards,  and  thus  throw  off  some  rain  as  well  as  exclude  frost.  No  roots 
can  work  in  frozen  soil.  Fermenting  material  is  not  indispensable  for 
placing  on  outside  borders,  but  the  warmth  is  a  great  aid  in  keeping  the 
roots  active  and  near  the  surface.  Outside  borders,  however,  are  great 
mistakes  for  Vines  that  are  forced  early  year  after  year. 
Vines  for  Starting  in  Z>ecm6er.— Prepare  the  Vines  and  house  for 
active  service  at  the  time  named,  which  is  the  latest  to  have  Muscats  ripe 
early  in  .June  and  the  early  varieties  in  May.  Prune  the  Vines  directly 
the  leaves  have  fallen,  as  it  contributes  to  early  and  complete  rest.  In 
pruning  two  buds  are  mostly  sufficient  to  leave  for  affording  compact 
bunches  of  Grapes.  Longer  pruning  may  be  practised  when  the  Vines 
are  wanted  to  give  fewer  and  larger  bunches,  for  it  does  not  answer  to 
allow  as  many  large  bunches  on  a  Vine  as  of  medium  sized.  Large 
bunches  are,  as  a  rule,  loose,  irregular  in  size  of  berry,  and  do  not  finish  satis¬ 
factorily.  Medium  sized  bunches  are  more  regular  in  form  and  size  of 
berry  and  finish  well.  If  the  eyes  at  the  base  of  the  shoots  are  not 
plump  three  eyes  may  be  left,  but  this  requires  frequent  renewal  of  the 
spurs.  The  Vines  should  be  stripped  of  loose  bark,  in  fact  all  that  can 
be  removed  without  stripping  them  to  the  live  bark,  and  be  washed  wdth 
a  tepid  softsoap  solution,  2  ozs.  softsoap  to  a  gallon  of  water.  That  is  all 
that  is  necessary  where  the  Vines  are  free  from  insects,  and  where  there 
has  not  been  mealy  bug,  scale,  red  spider  or  thrips,  but  for  these  use  a 
solution  of  caustic  soda  and  commercial  potash  (pearlash),  2  ozs.  each  to 
1  ^  gallon  of  hot  water,  applying  with  a  brush  at  a  temperature  of  130°  to 
140°.  It  kills  both  hibernating  pests  and  eggs. 
If  troubled  with  fungous  pests  in  previous  season  use  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron  1  lb.  to  I  gallon  of  water,  applying  cold  with  a  brush  ; 
but  do  not  use  both,  the  latter  sufficing  for  both  fungi  and  insects.  The 
woodwork  must  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  if  necessary  painted,  and  the 
walls  limewashed,  adding  a  handfiil  of  flowers  of  sulphur  to  each  pailful 
ot  limew'ash.  Remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  and  supply 
fresh  lumpy  loam  w'ith  a  9-inch  potful  of  bonemeal.  Though  a  some¬ 
what  dry  condition  of  the  roots  is  desirable,  the  border  must  not  be 
allowed  to  become  parched  and  cracked,  affording  water  if  necessary,  but 
not  saturating  the  soil  to  the  extent  of  making  it  sodden.  Keep  the 
house  cool,  admitting  air  freely  except  when  frost  prevails.  If  the  house 
is  occupied  with  plants  employ  fire  heat  only  to  exclude  frost. 
Vines  Ripening  the  Wood. — Vines  not  yet  ripe  in  the  wood,  the  foliage 
being  quite  green  and  the  wood  not  brown,  should  have  the  laterals 
closely  pinched,  bringing  them  down  by  degrees  to  the  principal  buds, 
which  will  have  a  tendency'  to  promote  rest  by  admitting  more  light  and 
restricting  the  root  action,  especially  if  air  is  admitted  freely  at  night, 
the  house  being  kept  rather  warm,  but  not  close,  by  day,  as  that  would 
have  a  tendency  to  induce  growth.  When  growth  in  the  laterals  has 
been  checked  the  shoots  may  be  shortened  to  a  few  leaves  above  the 
pruning  buds.  This  will  assist  the  basal  buds  to  plump  and  the  wood  to 
ripen,  a  genial  warmth  being  kept  in  the  pipes  and  air  freely  admitted. 
Houses  of  Ripe  Grapes. — A  temperature  of  about  50°  artificially  is  most 
suitable,  Muscat  of  Alexandria  being  the  better  if  5°  more,  losing  no 
opportunity  of  giving  air  when  the  days  are  fine,  turning  on  the  heat  in 
the  morning  so  as  to  cause  a  genial  warmth  in  the  pipes,  and  so  expel 
damp,  turning  off  the  heat  at  midday,  or  soon  after,  so  as  to  allow  the 
pipes  to  cool,  and  the  temperature  at  night  not  to  be  kept  above  50°,  even 
for  Muscats,  and  5°  less  for  other  varieties,  or  even  less  on  cold  nights ; 
but  a  slight  warmth  in  the  pipes  will  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture 
on  the  berries  and  prevent  “  spot,  ’  inasmuch  as  the  moisture  is  condensed 
on  the  glass  instead  of  the  Grapes.  A  low  night  temperature  causes  the 
mo'sture  present  in  the  air  to  be  rapidly  condensed  on  the  Grapes  in  the 
early  part  of  a  fine  day,  when  the  heat  is  not  turned  on  early  and  air 
admitted,  the  sun  heating  the  atmosphere  much  quicker  than  the  Grapes. 
This  must  not  be  overlooked,  and  during  the  prevalence  of  dull  weather  it 
will  be  necessary  to  keep  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes,  the  ventilators 
closed ;  yet  there  will  be  a  circulation  of  air,  causing  the  moisture  to 
settle  on  the  glass,  thereby  preserving  the  Grapes  from  damp.  Excess  of 
dryness  or  of  heat  will,  however,  cause  the  Grapes  to  shrivel ;  hence  the 
question  is  air — the  prevention  of  moisture  settling  on  the  berries. 
Pines. — Only  sufficient  heat  need  be  employed  to  sustain  the  plants  in 
health  and  maintain  the  progress  made.  They  should  be  placed  as  near  the 
glass  as  possible.  This  will  enable  them  to  make  the  most  of  every  ray  of 
light  and  sunshine  whenever  it  prevails.  Though  the  plants  may  not  per¬ 
ceptibly  grow  they  store  essential  matter  in  spells  of  bright  weather,  and 
become  stouter  where  due  attention  is  given  in  keeping  the  glass  clean,  and 
admitting  air  whenever  favourable  conditions  arise.  The  sturdy  plant 
throws  up  a  well-formed  fruit  in  due  season,  but  the  drawn  weakly  plant, 
though  apparently  larger  in  leaf,  furnishes  a  much  smaller  fruit  on  a 
lanky  stem  at  an  uncertain  and  irregular  time.  Therefore  to  give  plants 
the  benefit  of  clean  glass  and  proximity  to  it  without  touching  is  to  grow 
with  a  view  to  fruit,  and  to  keep  them  at  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
glass  and  crowded  or  beneath  glass  more  or  less  opaque  through  dirt, 
with  a  concomitant  moister  atmosphere,  is  to  produce  foliage  instead  of 
fruit. 
Fermenting  Beds. — The  materials  subside  considerably  through  decom¬ 
position,  and  fresh  made  ui  beds  settle  rapidly  unless  well  trodden  down. 
In  either  case  prompt  attention  should  be  given  to  raising  the  plants  so 
that  they  have  full  benefit  of  the  light,  and  in  so  doing  take  care  not  to 
chill  or  allow  them  to  become  overheated  at  the  roots.  New  beds  should 
be  made  where  necessary.  The  best  plan  is  to  remove  all  the  plants  to  a 
structure  with  the  suitable  temperature,  clear  out  the  old  fermenting 
material,  supply  fresh,  and  not  return  the  plants  until  the  beds  are  in  a 
proper  condition.  To  take  plants  out  of  a  warm  house  and  then  in  a  cold 
place  chills  them,  and  returning  to  warm  beds  from  cooler  quarters  acts 
in  the  opposite  direction,  sometimes  causing  them  to  “bolt” — that  is, 
throw  up  fruit  prematurely.  Oak,  Beech,  and  Spanish  Chestnut  leaves 
are  much  the  best,  as  they  are  more  durable  than  others,  and  the  heat  is 
consequently  milder  and  lasts  longer.  Tan  is  the  most  serviceable 
where  it  can  be  easily  procured,  and  about  half  the  quantity  suffices,  but 
leaves  in  many  cases  may  be  secured  for  nothing  beyond  the  labour. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN, 
Tuberous  Begonias. — These  plants  are  in  most  places  left  in  the 
beds  and  borders  till  frosts  cut  down  the  tops.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to 
wholly  clear  the  tubers  of  soil.  Enough  to  fairly  hide  them  should  be 
left  on  each,  this  keeping  some  of  the  fleshy  roots  alive,  a  stronger  and 
sure  growth  of  shoots  resulting  next  spring  accordingly.  Expose  the 
Begonias  as  much  as  possible  to  all  the  sunshine  and  air  going  ;  stages 
and  dry  beds  in  borders  in  freely  ventilated  vineries  being  good  places  for 
them  till  the  tops  are  sufficiently  dried  and  decayed  to  admit  of  their 
being  cleanly  separated  from  the  tubers.  Pack  them  closely  together  in 
shallow  boxes.  If  the  tubers  have  been  cleared  of  earth  these  should  be 
surrounded  by  some  fresh  fine  dry  soil,  but  those  not  so  cleared  need 
none  of  the  latter.  Tuberous  Begonias  keep  admirably  in  a  dry,  warm 
cellar,  and  failing  this  convenience  store  them  in  a  shed  or  cool  room, 
taking  care  to  provide  a  sufficiently  heavy  covering  of  mats  to  exclude 
frosts.  The  tubers  are  far  from  being  hardy,  and  on  the  other  hand  a 
very  warm,  dry  position  may  cause  their  loss  bj?  dry  rot.  Those  in  pots 
may  be  turned  out,  partly  cleared  of  soil,  and  wintered  as  advised  in  the 
case  of  those  dug  from  the  beds  ;  or  they  may  be  stored  on  their  sides 
under  a  staging  in  greenhouse  where  moisture  does  not  reach  them. 
Late-raised  plants  left  thickly  in  pans  or  boxes  should  be  kept  cool  and 
dry,  and  the  tops  when  decayed  be  cleared  off  them  ;  but  the  tiny  tubers 
should  remain  where  they  are  till  next  spring.  They  can  be  grown  into 
strong  plants  before  bedding-out  time  comes  round  again. 
Dahlias.— These  should  now  be  cut  down,  leaving  9  inches  length 
of  stem,  the  labels  being  securely  attached  to  this.  The  tubers  should  be 
lightly  cleared  of  soil  and  laid  on  their  sides  in  a  covered  shed  for  a  few 
