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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
November  4,  1897. 
be  so,  but  more  often  than  not  it  is  undesirable,  for  the  reason  that  the 
subsoil  may  be  poor  and  very  unsuited  for  the  free  and  vigorous  rooting 
of  Hoses.  Why  should  the  subsoil  be  poor?  Suppose  the  ground  has 
not  been  cultivated  for  more  than  one  spit  deep  over  a  long  period.  The 
subsoil  will  probably  be  stiff,  clayey,  gravelly  or  chalky,  deficient  in 
available  plant  food.  It  requires  to  be  broken  up,  intermixed  with  enrich¬ 
ing  material,  and  more  or  less  exposed  to  the  energising  influence  of  the 
atmosphere,  which  will  act  upon  it  beneficially,  gradually  causing  it  to 
yield  food  by  becoming  ameliorated  and  pulverised.  This  takes  place  but 
slowly.  It  may,  however,  be  much  improved  by  mixing  with  it  better 
material  and  manure. 
The  subsoil  being  well  disturbed,  it  is  not  advisable  to  bring  it  to  the 
surface,  but  to  deal  with  it  by  the  operation  known  as  bastard  trenching. 
This  is  carried  out  quite  easily,  and  the  ground  worked  two  spits  deep. 
If  the  plot  of  ground  is  of  good  size  divide  it  into  two.  Along  the  end  of 
one  of  these  divisions  mark  out  the  width  of  the  first  trench.  Take  out 
the  first  spit  and  deposit  it  on  the  other  half  at  the  same  end.  The 
bottom  spit  may  then  be  broken  up,  incorporating  with  it  manure,  soil, 
road  scrapings,  or  ashes,  whichever  will  most  tend  to  improve  it.  This 
done,  mark  out  the  next  trench  The  first  spit  taken  from  that  deposit 
on  the  broken-up  subsoil  of  the  first  trench  mixing  with  that  manure  or 
soil  for  improving  it.  The  same  course  of  treatment  must  naturally 
follow  with  the  others,  finally  finishing  where  the  soil  from  the  first 
trench  lies. 
Beds  of  small  dimensions  may  have  the  top  spit  of  soil  thrown  out, 
then  break  up  the  bottom  and  intermix  the  improving  material  as  neces¬ 
sary,  or  place  manure  in  layers,  alternating  with  soil.  Near  the  surface, 
however,  it  is  better  mixed.  Manure  in  direct  contact  with  the  roots  of 
newly  inserted  plants  will  prove  injurious. 
When  the  upper  layers  of  soil  are  in  good  condition  it  is  not  so 
essential  to  apply  manure  at  the  time  of  planting,  but  it  may  with  advan¬ 
tage  be  placed  below.  Half  or  thoroughly  decayed  manure  is  the  best 
to  employ.  Cow  manure  being  suitable  for  light  soil,  horse  manure 
for  heavy  soil,  and  mixed  farmyard  manure  for  soils  of  medium  texture. 
— E.  D.  S. 
Roses  foe  Makket. 
{^Concluded  from  page  388.) 
In  dealing  with  the  cultivation  of  Roses  under  glass,  I  hardly 
know  where  to  commence.  Young  grafted  plants  of  the  Teas  are 
used,  and  quite  small  plants  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  from  the 
open  ground,  the  last  being  worked  upon  the  Manetti  stock.  This  is 
by  far  the  best  stock  for  pot  plants,  and  never  grows  so  coarse  as  in  the 
open.  These  young  plants  are  placed  into  32*s,  a  compost  of  rich  turfy 
loam  only  being  used.  When  the  first  season’s  growth  is  finished  the 
plants  are  stood  in  the  open  for  a  couple  of  months,  which  will  bring  us 
to  the  early  part  of  September.  The  ripest  plants  are  then  picked  out, 
turned  out  of  pots,  a  considerable  amount  of  the  soil  removed  and  repotted 
into  a  6  or  7-inch  size.  Strong  turfy  loam  is  again  the  staple  of  our 
compost,  a  little  bonemeal  and  pulverised  cow  manure  being  also  used. 
Fresh  soil  always  causes  a  freer  and  quicker  formation  of  new  roots.  The 
plants  are  potted  much  firmer  than  the  average  amateur  practises.  When 
repotted  and  pruned  they  are  stood  in  a  cool  pit  and  kept  close  for  a 
month  or  so.  This  induces  rapid  root  growth,  and  the  buds  soon  plump 
up  ready  to  burst.  These  earliest  plants  are  intended  to  flower  about 
Christmas,  and  are  taken  to  one  section  of  the  house  by  the  middle  of 
October.  During  this  stage  quite  enough  plants  for  both  sections  can  be 
stood  into  one  division,  which  is  started  at  a  temperature  of  45°,  and 
gradually  brought  up  to  60°  Fahr. 
During  this  time  the  Roses  in  the  borders  are  also  coming  along  in 
unison  with  the  pot  plants.  The  roots  of  the  climbers  being  all  under 
cover  is  far  safer  for  forcing  purposes  than  when  such  are  planted  where 
many  roots  would  ramble  into  cold  outside  soil.  Those  upon  the  side 
walls  are  not  so  given  to  rambling,  and  will  keep  to  the  prepared  border. 
None  the  less,  we  give  a  little  outside  protection  in  the  shape  of  straw 
hurdles  leant  against  the  walls  where  no  side  pits  answer  the  same 
purj)ose.  By  keeping  off  excessive  wet  and  the  direct  influence  of 
weather  no  harm  accrues  to  the  roots. 
When  the  pot  Roses  have  grown  sufficiently  to  need  more  room,  the 
backwardest  are  draughted  out  to  the  other  section,  which  by  that  time 
has  finished  its  crop  of  Tomatoes  or  other  summer  occupants.  This 
section  is  now  heated  as  well,  but  the  first  one,  containing  the  most  forward 
plants,  is  raised  from  5°  to  10°.  Sometimes  a  house  is  filled  with  pot 
Roses  at  once,  cramming  these  in  almost  as  thickly  as  they  will  stand, 
and  draughting  them  off  to  other  houses  as  becomes  necessary  and  the 
various  summer  crops  will  allow.  It  is  a  pity,  and  would  never  pay  with 
the  present  low  prices  and  keen  competition,  to  set  the  plants  far  apart 
from  the  first,  while  Tomatoes  and  Roses  go  well  together,  and  make  use 
of  the  house  the  whole  twelve  months. 
By  regulating  the  temperatures  of  each  section,  and  by  bringing  the 
Roses  forward  in  batches,  we  get  a  succession  of  bloom.  When  a  number 
of  plants  have  given  the  greater  part  of  their  first  crop  the  temperature 
is  allovved  to  fall  a  few  degrees,  raising  this  again  a  fortnight  after.  It  is 
surprising  how  much  this  short  partial  rest  seems  to  assist  in  the  building 
up  of  new  growth,  which  soon  comes  into  flower  once  more.  But  this 
last  does  not  apply  to  the  climbers. 
The  varieties  named  do  not  cease  flowering  in  the  same  way  as  our 
summer  and  most  climbing  Roses,  but  they  fall  off  in  quantity  at  the  very 
time  there  are  plenty  to  be  had  under  cool  treatment.  During  the  whole 
time  of  flowering  growth  has  been  forming,  and  can  now  be  steadily 
ripened  preparatory  to  turning  the  plants  out  upon  a  sheltered  border 
beneath  a  wall  or  hedge,  thus  making  room  for  the  Tomatoe.s.  It  often 
happens  that  one  has  to  select  the  ripest  plants  from  the  two  sections, 
removing  these  only,  and  placing  those  with  much  young  and  tender 
growth  into  one  section  for  a  short  time  longer.  At  this  time  much  more 
ventilation  is  given,  but  draughts  are  as  carefully  avoided  as  during  the 
earlier  stages.  The  object  is  to  get  as  many  of  the  Roses  as  possible  in 
at  the  desired  time,  and  yet  make  room  for  early  Tomatoes,  which  have 
been  growing  on  in  Sj-inch  pots,  ready  for  use  as  soon  as  any  section  can 
be  cleared  of  Roses. 
We  must  now  return  to  cultural  details.  From  the  very  first  an  effort 
is  made  to  keep  a  fairly  uniform  temperature,  and  upon  no  occasion 
should  ventilation  be  accompanied  by  draughts.  This  is  one  of  the  chief 
causes  of  mildew,  any  sudden  change  being  almost  sure  to  bring  on  that 
most  disastrous  complaint.  Liquid  manures  are  given  freely  after 
the  growth  has  well  started,  but  not  before  ;  nor  are  these  ever 
used  at  any  great  strength,  or  tied  to  one  kind.  Both  cow,  stable, 
and  other  drainage  are  used.  As  for  artificial  manures,  we  find 
none  better  than  the  best  Peruvian  guano,  at  the  rate  of  2  ozs.  to 
3  gallons  of  water,  and  some  soot  dissolved  in  the  tank  or  tub.  The 
latter  should  always  be  enclosed  in  a  bag  to  avoid  unpleasant  scum. 
Both  guano  and  soot  water  will  be  about  the  colour  of  sherry  when  fit 
for  use,  and  it  is  far  better,  as  well  as  safer,  to  use  it  weak  and  freely 
than  to  risk  a  stronger  dose.  _ 
Insect  foes  are  kept  at  bay  from  the  outset,  otherwise  they  are  a  great 
expense  to  keep  down,  and  also  injure  the  plants  very  much.  Begin  the 
battle  early,  keep  a  close  look  out,  and  use  mild  measures,  then  the  Rose 
is  no  more  trouble  than  other  plants.  It  is  always  a  good  plan  to 
damp  down  with  liquid  manures— natural— occasionally  of  a  morning, 
especially  if  bright.  _ 
The  same  pot  plants  will  do  for  three  or  four  seasons,  but  it  is  well  to 
introduce  a  few  young  ones  each  year,  and  weed  out  those  carrying  much 
old  and  sere  wood. 
Pruning  is  a  most  important  item.  The  climbers  are  cut  back  rather 
hard  directly  the  crop  of  bloom  is  secured.  This  induces  more  young 
rods  from  the  base,  and  these  grow  on  while  our  pot  plants  are  giving 
a  succession  of  bloom.  One  must  not  hesitate  to  cut  back  closely  simply 
because  the  plants  are  carrying  healthy  foliage  and  growths.  We  cannot 
allow  overcrowding  of  lateral  shoots,  and  if  cut  back  early,  they  get 
away  from  the  Tomatoes  in  ample  time  to  be  fairly  well  ripened  by 
the  end  of  the  summer.  Nor  do  we  crowd  the  house  with  Tomatoes, 
but  use  them  as  a  catch  crop,  and  a  help  towards  the  labour  account. 
Pot  Roses  need  about  hklf  of  their  best  wood  left,  cutting  out  all 
weak  growth,  and  keeping  the  plants  fairly  compact.  Those  upon  the 
side  walls  are  pruned  and  tied  up  in  the  usual  manner.  Between  the 
times  of  removing  the  Roses  and  putting  in  Tomatoes,  give  the  Roses 
a  good  mulch  and  a  thorough  watering.  If  the  Tomatoes  are  not  in 
pots,  you  will  need  to  mend  the  border  a  little  each  season  ;  but  it  is 
far  more  satisfactory,  except  as  regards  the  water  supply,  to  grow  these 
in  pots,  as  one  has  the  roots  more  under  control,  whereas  they  would 
grow  very  coarse  in  the  unlimited  root  run  provided  by  the  borders. — 
Peactice. 
HEUBACEOUS  PiEONIES. 
Youe  correspondent  “  a  ”  (page  387)  must  have  a  singular  lack  of 
power  to  appreciate  beauty  in  Nature  if  he  disdain  the  lovely  autumn 
foliage  of  the  herbaceous  Pseony.  To  many  his  “dirty  brown  hue” 
appears  as  resplendent  tints  of  orange,  purple,  amethyst,  and  rich 
burnt  sienna,  with  an  occasional  splash  of  warm  carmine.  Our  fields 
of  Pasonies  in  September  and  October  cause  the  inhabitants  of  the 
neighbouring  parishes  to  ask  for  Pmony  leaves  at  harvest  festival  time  to 
mix  with  their  Gladioli  and  Dahlias  for  the  decoration  of  their  churches 
and  chapels.  People  send  us  money  for  the  foliage  from  places  hundreds 
of  miles  away.  The  Pseony  is  beautiful  in  autumn,  as  in  spring  and 
summer  ;  the  vivid  colour  in  the  young  growth  as  it  pushes  through  the 
ground  is  no  less  charming  than  the  picturesque  hues  of  age.  Of  course 
when  the  time  for  rest  has  actually  come,  and  the  foliage  has  really 
decayed,  then  this  beauty  departs,  as  with  other  herbaceous  or  dying- 
down  plants,  which  is  a  signal  for  the  gardener  to  lift  the  plant  if  need 
be,  or  to  clear  away  the  dead  stems  and  leaves.  But  never  should  the 
garden  or  the  plant  be  robbed  to  any  extent  of  the  lovely  autumn  Pseony 
foliage.— Kelw AY  &  Son.  _ 
Most  growers  of  the  Pseony  have  too  much  affection  for  this  grand 
flower,  to  think  of  cutting  off  the  leaves  as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
flowers  are  over.  It  is  surprising,  notwithstanding,  to  see  in  some 
gardens  the  common  Pseonia  officinalis  fl.-pl  undergoing  this  drastic 
treatment  year  after  year  without  apparent  deterioration.  I  should  not 
think  of  doing  it,  but  your  correspondent  “  A.”  might  find  it  worth 
while  trying  this  annually  for  a  few  years.  The  Paeony  is  very  accommo¬ 
dating,  but  it  is  possible  that  the  Chinese  varieties  would  not  stand  such 
a  severe  trial  as  our  old  double  Paeony  can  do. — A.  HaedimAN. 
