490 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  18,  1897. 
WQKKJo^™iWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Fruit  Trees.  —The  weather  has  been  suitable  for  preparing 
soils  of  varying  character,  the  absence  of  heavy  rains  insuring  the  moving 
and  breaking  up  of  the  soil  being  carried  on  under  clean  conditions. 
Heavy  and  retentive  soils  are  always  better  when  they  can  be  prepared 
under  good  circumstances,  the  roots  of  newly  planted  trees  taking  freely 
to  ground  that  is  fairly  pulverised,  moist,  and  warm. 
Should  the  positions  intended  for  fruit  trees  still  be  unprepared,  it  is 
desirable  that  the  work  of  preparation  be  commenced  forthwith.  When 
the  soil  is  very  light  and  dry  there  need  be  no  hesitation  in  trenching  it 
to  the  depth  of  feet.  Keep  the  best  soil  on  the  top,  however,  but  well 
break  up  the  subsoil.  Should  the  latter  be  very  unsuitable  for  the 
entry  of  roots  it  might  in  special  instances  be  removed  to  the  depth  of  a 
foot,  substituting  better  material.  The  average  depth  of  good  soil 
necessary  for  the  roots  of  fruit  trees  is  2  feet.  Wherever  this  depth  can 
be  commanded  there  will  be  no  necessity  to  remove  any  subsoil,  but  see 
that  it  is  sufficiently  open  to  admit  of  free  drainage. 
Good,  substantial  soil  needs  no  manuring  at  the  time  of  planting.  The 
best  enriching  material  is  good  loam,  which  may  be  added  freely  to  soils 
below  an  average  quality.  Pulverised  clay  is  good  for  light  and  very 
sandy  soils,  and  will  increase  their  retentive  power.  Wood  ashes  well 
worked  into  the  surface  soil  render  it  friable  and  suitable  for  the  emission 
of  rootlets,  so  that  newly  planted  trees  may  become  readily  established. 
Selection  of  Trees. — Whether  trees  are  personally  selected  by  the 
cultivator  or  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  nurseryman  is  a  matter  of  con¬ 
venience.  Hardy,  vigorous  trees  or  bushes  of  medium  strength  are  the 
best  for  all  purposes.  They  should  possess  a  good  ])roportion  of  fibrous 
roots,  which  ought  to  be  carefully  preserved  in  lifting  and  kept  from  the 
drying  influences  of  the  air  by  careful  packing. 
Distances  to  Plant. — Planting  too  thickly,  whether  on  u'alls,  fences, 
borders,  or  open  plots,  is  decidedly  disadvantageous  to  the  welfare  of  the 
trees,  besides  a  waste  of  material  and  a  cause  of  unnecessary  trouble  in 
planting.  Fruit  trees  should  be  planted  with  regard  to  their  ultimate 
develoi)ment.  If  they  are  planted  so  closely  that  when  approaching  to  a 
good  bearing  condition  the  branches  grow  into  one  another  considerable 
harm  accrues  which  can  never  be  properly  rectified.  Apricots,  Peaches, 
Nectarines,  Plums,  and  Cherries  on  walls,  trained  fan  sha])ed,  may  be 
15  feet  apart.  Apples  and  Pears,  horizontally  trained,  18  feet  apart ; 
fan  shaped,  15  feet.  Pyramid  Pears  on  Pear  stocks,  16  feet  apart.  If 
root-pruned,  10  feet  apart.  Pears  on  C^uince  stocks,  not  root-pruned, 
6  feet  apart.  Cordon  Pears  and  Apples  on  walls  or  fences,  18  inches  to 
2  feet  apart.  Standard  trees  ought  to  be  25  to  30  feet  apart,  bush  trees 
of  Ap])les  and  Pears  10  feet  apart.  Gooseberry  and  Currant  bushes, 
6  feet  apart. 
Details  of  Planting.— It  is  important  to  throw  out  the  soil  for  the 
reception  of  the  roots,  so  as  to  form  wide,  but  shallow  holes.  Previous 
to  inserting  the  trees  in  position  any  broken  and  bruised  ends  of  the 
roots  ought  to  be  pruned  smoothly,  making  a  short,  upward,  slanting  cut. 
Shorten  long,  rambling  roots  to  a  reasonable  length  for  them  to  be  laid 
out  straight.  Form  the  soil  at  the  base  of  the  holes  into  a  convex  mound, 
and  on  the  to])  place  the  trees,  which  must  not  be  planted  deeper  than 
formerly.  Tlie  earth  marks  on  the  stems  will  determine  this.  Some 
fine,  light  material,  consisting  of  friable  soil  and  wood  ashes,  should  be  at 
hand  for  jdacing  among  the  roots.  Spread  out  the  roots  in  layers  to 
their  full  extent,  securing  them  in  position  by  scattering  the  fine  soil  over 
them  from  the  stem  outwards.  Treat  each  layer  of  roots  the  same  way, 
the  uppermost  layer  being  3  or  4  inches  from  the  surface  when  finished. 
The  soil  about  the  roots  should  be  made  as  firmly  as  possible,  but  avoid 
heavily  treading  with  the  feet.  This  may  so  strain  the  roots  that  they 
will  be  broken  or  injured. 
Watering.— 'Vhe  best  possible  way  of  washing  the  soil  among  the  roots 
is  to  give  a  thorough  watering  after  planting  wdth  a  rosed  can.  The 
water  will  carry  the  particles  of  soil  among  the  finer  roots,  and  all  air 
spaces  will  thereby  be  t  lied  up,  leaving  the  soil  sufficiently  firm  for  the 
roots  to  grasp  readily. 
Staking  Trees. — In  some  cases  it  is  more  convenient  to  insert  the  stakes 
before  planting.  All  trees,  however,  which  require  support,  ought  to 
have  it  as  soon  as  planted.  If  rocked  to  and  fro  by  the  wind  great 
pressure  is  placed  on  the  roots  which  have  obtained  no  hold  on  the  soil. 
Soft  material  should  be  placed  round  the  stems,  securing  them  to  the 
stakes  with  copi)er  wire. 
Mulching. —  Shoi  tly  after  planting,  the  ground  above  the  roots  may  be 
lightly  mulched  with  short  half-decayed  manure.  It  will  assist  in  conserv¬ 
ing  heat  in  the  soil  and  in  preventing  the  entry  of  frost. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  House. — The  trees  must  be 
started  to  ripen  the  fruit  in  May,  when  the  varieties  consist  of  Hale’s 
Early,  Stirling  Castle,  Crimson  Galande,  Dymond  or  Grosse  Mignonne, 
Royal  George  and  Rellegarde  Peaches,  with  Lord  Napier,  River.s’  Orange, 
Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt,  and  Dryden  Nectarines.  The  very  early 
varieties — Alexander  or  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  Early  Louise,  and 
Condor  Peaches,  with  Cardinal,  Advance,  and  Early  Rivers  Nectarines — 
need  not  be  started  until  the  new  year.  If  the  lights  have  been  off, 
the  inside  border  will  have  been  thoroughly  moistened  down  to  the 
drainage.  Weakly  trees  will  be  benefited  by  an  application  of  liquid 
manure.  Fire  heat  need  only  be  employed  at  night  to  exclude  frost,  and 
by  day  to  insure  a  temi>erature  of  50“  Commence  ventilating  at  50\  and 
close  the  house  at  that  temperature,  ventilating  fully  without  lowering  the 
heat  below  .50“  in  the  daytime.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and 
early  afternoon  of  fine  days  until  the  buds  begin  to  show  colour  ;  but  then 
(and  on  dull  days  jmior  thereto)  discontinue  the  syringing,  yet  maintain 
a  suitable  moisture  in  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the  paths,  borders,  and 
other  available  surfaces  on  bright  mornings  and  fine  afternoons,  admitting 
a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house.  Aim  at  bringing  the  trees 
on  gradually  to  secure  well  developed  blossom. 
Houses  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Trees  started  early  in  the  year  for 
affording  fruit  at  the  end  of  May  or  early  in  .Tune  must  now  be  kept  as 
cool  as  ])Ossible.  Pruning  will  have  been  attended  to,  which  is  a  light 
affair  where  jjroper  attention  has  been  given  to  disbudding,  retaining 
growth  only  essential  for  extension  and  next  year’s  bearing,  and  cutting 
out  after  the  fruit  is  gathered  the  useless  wood.  The  trees,  however, 
must  be  examined  to  remove  wood  not  required,  and  that  have  been 
overlooked  during  growth.  Brown  scale  is  sometimes  troublesome,  and 
must  be  destroyed.  Secure  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  allowing  plenty  of 
space  in  the  ties  for  the  swelling  of  the  branches.  Remove  any  loose 
inert  soil  from  the  surface  of  the  border,  supplying  fresh  material  not 
more  than  a  couple  of  inches  thick  on  the  roots.  Quickly  acting  fertilisers 
should  not  be  applied  until  the  crop  has  set,  a  dressing  then  being  given, 
and  at  intervals  of  a  month  or  six  weeks  afterwards  up  to  the  fruit 
changing  for  ripening.  Mulching  also  with  short  manure  should  be 
deferred  until  the  trees  are  somewhat  in  growth.  Houses  with  fixed  roof- 
lights  should  be  kept  as  cool  as  possible,  ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent 
except  when  severe  frost  prevails. 
Houses  for  Starting  in  Februarg. — The  trees  started  early  in  February 
ripen  the  fruit  late  in  .Tune  or  early  in  .luly,  and  will  now  require  similar 
treatment  to  that  advised  for  those  in  the  house  to  be  started  at  the  new 
year.  The  roof-lights  are  much  better  removed,  but  it  is  a  common 
practice  to  use  bouses  of  this  kind  for  plants  requiring  protection  from 
frost,  especially  Chrysanthemums.  It  is  not  a  good  procedure,  for  the 
Peach  trees  are  deprived  of  the  rest  essential  to  success,  and  it  often 
excites  the  trees  prematurely,  being  then  followed  by  a  check,  as  is  usually 
caused  when  the  Chrysanthemums  are  over  by  throwing  the  house  open, 
inducing  the  buds  to  fall.  It  is  also  a  bad  system  to  leave  houses  and 
trees  unattended  after  the  leaves  fall  until  the  absolute  necessity  arises 
for  starting  the  trees.  The  trees  are  never  handled  so  safely  as  when  the 
wood  contains  least  sap,  which  is  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have  fallen,  and 
the  delay  is  taken  advantage  of  by  red  spider,  thrips,  and  other  insect 
pests  to  find  safe  retreats.  The  house,  therefore,  should  be  thoroughly 
cleansed,  the  trees  pruned,  readjusted  to  the  trellis,  and  every  needful 
operation  performed,  so  that  a  start  can  be  made  with  confidence  when  the 
proper  time  arrives. 
Houses  Started  in  March. — The  trees  in  these  structures,  and  closed 
early  in  March,  will  ripen  their  fruit  in  July  if  brought  forward  by 
artificial  heat ;  but  where  warmth  is  given  when  the  trees  are  in  blossom, 
and  to  secure  the  safety  of  the  young  fruit  from  frost,  the  fruit  will  not 
ripen  until  August  or  September  if  kept  cool.  The  house  may  be  a  Peach 
case  or  glass-covered  wall,  with  sufficient  hot-water  jiiiung  to  exclude 
frost;  afford  a  genial  warmth  when  the  trees  are  in  blossom,  accelerating 
the  ripening  as  may  be  necessary,  and  ripening  the  wood  in  cool  districts. 
The  trees  are  now  leafless  where  they  have  been  subjected  to  artificial 
heat  to  ripen  the  fruit  in  August,  and  should  undergo  the  operations 
advised  for  those  in  the  early  house.  The  roof-lights  should  be  removed, 
the  hot-water  pipes  emptied,  leaving  the  lights  off  until  the  blossoms  show 
colour,  unless  it  is  desired  to  start  the  trees  before.  If  the  lights  are 
fixed,  the  ventilators  should  be  thrown  open  to  the  fullest  extent,  except 
when  frost  prevails. 
Late  Houses. — Make  no  attempt  to  remove  the  leaves  until  they  ])art 
readily  from  the  trees  by  shaking  the  trellis,  but  cut  outall  the  wood  that  has 
borne  fruit  and  all  superfluous  growths.  Do  not  allow  the  soil  to  become 
very  dry,  but  if  necessary  give  water  to  moisten  down  to  the  drainage. 
Keep  the  house  cool  by  free  ventilation,  clearing  away  the  leaves  as  they 
fall.  Trees  that  grow  too  luxuriantly  should  be  root-pruned  and  lifted 
whilst  the  leaves  are  upon  them,  but  the  wood  being  unripe  they 
must  not  be  lifted  until  the  leaves  have  for  the  most  part  fallen,  or 
the  unripe  wood  will  shrivel  and  die.  If  the  wood  does  not  ripen  well 
turn  the  heat  on  by  day  with  moderate  ventilation,  and  turn  it  off  in 
the  afternoon  so  as  to  have  the  pipes  cool  before  night,  and  then  open 
all  the  ventilators,  unless  frost  prevails,  when  ventilate  according  to 
circumstances,  for  the  sudden  collapse  of  the  foliage  is  detrimental  to  the 
trees’  health.  When  the  wood  does  not  ripen  up  to  the  points  of  the 
shoots  a  trench  may  be  taken  out  at  some  distance  from  the  stem  and 
the  roots  be  cut,  which  will  check  the  tendency  to  growth  and  induce 
ripening.  After  remaining  open  ten  days  to  a  fortnight  the  trenches  may 
be  closed,  making  the  soil  firm  and  giving  a  good  watering. 
Wall  Cases  or  Unheated  Houses. — In  some  localities  Peaches  and 
Nectarines  do  not  succeed  against  walls,  and  they  are  covered  with  glass, 
under  which  the  trees  afford  more  satisfactory  crops.  The  walls  should 
have  south  aspects  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  kingdom  ;  in  the  south  late 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  ripen  well  in  September  and  October  in  structures 
facing  west.  They  are  not,  however,  always  satisfactory.  Sometimes 
the  border  is  at  fault  and  the  trees  make  late  growth,  not  ripening  the 
wood  well.  Where  that  occurs  the  trees  should  be  lifted  and  the  roots 
laid  in  fresh  compost  nearer  the  surface.  If  the  drainage  is  not  good  it 
