514 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
November  25,  1897. 
suchjiinproved  methods  of  ventilation  that  we  may  hope  ere  long  scalding 
of  the  berries  will  be  a  thing  of  the  past. 
When  late  Grapes  are  hanging  some  time  after  being  ripe  all  means 
for  their  protection  must  he  resorted  to.  Dead  or  decaying  leaves  should 
he  removed  daily,  and  the  bunches  looked  over  at  least  three  times  a  week, 
removing  all  bad  berries.  It  is  astonishing  how  quickly  one  berry,  if 
left,  will  ruin  a  hunch,  therefore  this  operation  needs  es|)ecial  care.  The 
house  must  be  kept  dry  and  well  aired  on  all  favouralsle  occasions,  and 
should  the  weather  be  damp  a  small  amount  of  pipe  heat  must  lie  resorted 
to,  hut  do  not  get  it  too  fierce,  as  it  will  aid  shrivelling,  especially  in 
Muscats.  The  outside  borders  must  alio  receive  protection  of  some  kind 
from  the  wer,  as  should  the  borders  become  too  moist  at  this  season. 
))remature  dec-iy  may  take  place  in  the  berries.  This  protection  should 
be  removed  as  soon  as  the  Grapes  are  cut. 
Late  keeping  Gra|ies  must  be  cut  sufficiently  early  to  afford  the  Vines 
a  good  rest.  The  Grapes  will  keep  well  if  cut,  and  the  piece  of  cane 
attached  placed  in  bottles  filled  with  clear  soft  water.  It  is  advisable  to 
leave  a  length  of  wood  beyond  the  bunch.  The  bottles  must  be  so  fixed 
that  when  the  stem  is  placed  each  bunch  will  hang  quite  clear.  The 
bottles  must  be  examined  two  or  three  times  to  see  that  the  Grapes  do 
not  lack  for  water,  especially  early  after  bottling,  as  it  will  then  be  found 
the  bunches  have  taken  up  a  considerable  amount  of  the  water.  The 
bunches  must  also  be  fre(]uently  examined,  cutting  out  all  decaying 
berries. 
Red  spider,  thrips,  and  mildew  will  generally  be  found  the  worst 
enemies  gardeners  have  to  deal  with.  For  the  former,  slightly  dusting 
affected  parts  with  flowers  of  sulphur  will  hold  it  in  check.  For  thrips, 
if  they  become  troublesome,  sponge  the  leaves  with  lukewarm  water  in 
which  a  little  insecticide  has  been  placed.  For  mildew,  on  its  first  appear¬ 
ance,  sulphur  must  be  used.  If  this  enemy  once  get  a  strong  hold  it  will 
play  terrible  havoc,  not  only  with  the  leaves,  but  also  the  bunches  ;  there¬ 
fore  we  must  be  especially  watchful  for  a  first  appearance  of  it. 
In  writing  these  few  articles,  I  hope  I  may  have  been  a  lit'le  service  to 
the  j’ounger  members  of  our  craft ;  I  dare  not  hope  for  the  older  ones.  1 
have  endeavoured  to  give  the  cultivation  of  the  Grape  Vine  as  I  have  seen 
it  for  better  or  worse.  I  hope  I  have  succeeded.— Semper. 
Dendrobtum  Phal^nopssis  Sciirodertanum. 
I  THINK  Dendrobium  Fhalfenopsis  Schroderianum  might  well  be 
called  king  of  the  genus,  both  for  its  freedom  of  growth  and  flowering. 
It  is  very  early  grown,  adapting  itself  anywhere  where  it  can  get  a 
sufficiency  of  light,  heat,  and  moisture.  An  ordinary  stove  will  suit  it 
as  well  as  a  house  purposely  for  them. 
It  should  be  placed  as  close  to  the  glass  as  convenient  without  the 
pseudo-bull)s  touching  the  glass,  and  after  once  being  started  into  growth 
should  never  be  allowed  to  get  dry.  Shading  must  only  be  resorted  to 
in  the  hottest  part  of  the  flay,  syringing  the  plants  thoroughly  when 
closing  the  house,  as  this  will  induce  strong,  healthy  growths,  and  help 
to  check  thrips  and  other  insect  pests  which  are  apt  to  disfigure  the  plants 
and  retard  the  growths  from  full  development.  After  the  plants  have 
finished  Powering  they  should  be  given  a  thorough  resting. 
The  colours  of  the  Pow'ers  of  this  delightful  plant  range  from 
almost  pure  white  to  velvety  crimson,  and  are  borne  on  spikes  averaging 
from  18  inches  to  2  feet  in  length,  bearing  from  sixteen  to  twenty  flowers. 
It  is  so  useful  for  house  decoration  in  a  cut  slate,  and  when  in  flower  on 
the  plant  for  grouping,  for  which  it  seems  to  be  an  especial  favourite,  as 
we  see  it  used  so  extensively  in  all  the  premier  groups  at  the  leading 
shows. 
The  pests  that  infest  these  plants  are  thrips  and  scale,  which  can 
only  be  kept  down  by  frequent  sponging.  There  is  also  a  small  weevil, 
or  beetle,  which  bores  its  way  into  the  bulbs,  and  there  deposits  its  eggs, 
which  cause  the  bulb  to  decay,  and  can  only  be  exterminated  by  frequent 
fumigations  of  XL  vaporiser. 
Another  great  thing  it  has  to  commend  it  is  the  moderate  price 
at  which  it  can  be  purchased  and  the  small  amount  of  room  it  requires, 
which  is  a  consideration  where  space  is  limited.  One  often  hears  visitors, 
when  passing  through  Orchid  houses,  remark,  “What  a  lot  of  dry-looking 
sticks  they  are  !  ”  when  out  of  flower  (which  is  very  rare).  Yet  when 
they  see  them  in  flower  they  are  aroused  to  a  state  of  enthusiasm  not 
often  seen. — .1.  B.,  Bowden.  Wilts. 
Fernbttya  mucronata. — This  is  one  of  the  few  shrubs  which 
take  foremost  places  in  more  than  one  division.  It  can  be  put  into 
a  front  place  among  evergreens,  it  is  one  of  the  very  best  ornamental 
fruited  shrubs,  and  although  individually  the  flowers  are  small,  the  great 
freedom  with  which  they  are  produced  makes  it  interesting  as  a  flowering 
shrub.  Looked  at  as  an  evergreen,  it  forms  a  low-growing  compact 
bush  with  small  ovate,  lanceolate  leaves  half  an  inch  or  so  long.  They 
are  dark  green  and  glossy,  and  are  relieved  by  the  red  bark  of  the  young 
wood.  The  Powering  period  is  spring,  though  a  few  flowers  may  be 
found  at  almost  any  time.  The  flowers  are  small  and  white,  and  are 
followed  by  bright  coloured  fruits.  The  fruits  are  produced  in  dense 
clusters,  and  have  a  wide  range  of  colour  in  the  various  varieties' 
Some  are  white,  some  pink,  red,  or  purple,  with  many  shades  of  each. 
The  plant  is  not  very  particular  regarding  soil  and  position  so  long  as  the 
soil  is  not  too  heavy.  It  is  useful  either  as  a  single  plant  or  grown  in  a 
mass,  white  a  bed  containing  a  dozen  or  so  of  the  best  varieties  is  very 
interesting.  The  stock  of  plants  can  be  readily  increased  by  division  or 
from  seeds,  the  latter  lieing  the  slower  method.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
in  sandy  peat,  and  the  seedlings  pricked  off  in  pans  or  boxes  until  large 
enough  for  the  nursery  border,  when  they  should  be  treated  in  a  similar 
manner  to  Ericas. — K. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  growing  of  clean  straight  fruit  in  winter  is  no  easy 
matter.  There  is  nothing  like  plenty  of  heating  surface  for  growing 
winter  Cucumbers.  The  heal  not  being  radiated  at  a  high  temperaturei< 
good  for  vegetation,  and  the  water  in  the  pipes  not  having  to  be  kept  near 
boiling  point  the  results  are  satisfactory  in  produce  and  cost  of  produc¬ 
tion,  for  hard  firing  means  a  corresponding  waste  of  fuel.  Very  little  air 
will  be  needed  no^v,  yet  a  change  of  atmosphere  whenever  a  favourable 
opportunity  offers  will  be  of  great  service  in  hardening  the  tissues,  always, 
however,  excluding  sharp  and  cold  air,  tuining  off  the  top  heat  when  the 
sun  is  very  bright  and  likely  to  raise  the  temperature  much  over  85°  or 
90°.  In  bright  weather  damp  the  house  in  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
but  be  careful  not  to  wet  the  embryo  fruit,  for  water  hanging  on  it  will 
cause  decay.  Vbiter  will  be  required  at  the  roots  about  twice  a  week, 
always  affording  it  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  bed.  Maintain  the 
night  temperature  at  65°,  5°  less  on  cold  mornings,  and  5°  higher  in 
mild  weather,  70  to  75°  by  day,  and  10°  to  15°  advance  from  sun  heat. 
The  plants  from  the  August  sowing  planted  out  in  September  have 
covered  the  trellis  and  are  fruiting  plentifully,  but  this  must  be  allowed 
moderately  if  the  plants  are  expected  to  afford  full  supplies  at  a  later 
period.  Young  plants,  however,  always  give  the  best  results;  hence  when 
they  become  strong  the  better  plan  is  to  fruit  them  and  have  a  succession 
to  follow  when  they  indicate  exhaustion.  Attend  frequently  to  stopping 
and  thinning,  also  tying  the  shoots,  avoiding  overcrowding,  as  stout 
foliage  better  endures  the  trying  ordeal  ot  wintry  weather.  Canker  must 
be  held  in  check  by  quicklime  rubbed  well  into  the  affected  parts. 
Removing  old  useless  leaves  is  good  for  the  plants,  and  may  keej)  off' 
attacks  of  red  spider;  but  the  best  safeguard  against  this  pest  and  white 
fly  is  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot-water  pipe.s,  also  for  mildew.  Aphides 
succumb  to  fumigation  with  toliacco  paper  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine 
essenc(',  but  neither  must  be  used  excessively  or  the  foliage  will  suffer; 
besides,  either  operation  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  in  modera¬ 
tion  makes  sure  of  the  pests  and  thrips. 
"Figs.  ~  Earliest  Trees  in  Pots. — To  have  fruit  ripe  at  the  end  of  April 
or  early  in  May  the  trees  should  be  started  in  December,  and  they  must 
be  of  the  early  varieties.  Afier  trying  most  vve  find  St.  .Tohn’s  and 
Early  Violet,  with  Pingo  de  Mel  and  Brown  Turkey,  unequalled.  Dress 
the  trees  with  an  insecticide,  adhering  closely  to  the  instructions.  Stand 
the  trees  on  loose  brickwork  pillars,  so  that  they  may  not  settle  with  the 
fermenting  material,  which,  being  placed  in  the  pit  and  brought  up  about 
the  pots,  will  afford  a  genial  warmth  and  moisture,  but  the  heat  about  the 
pots  must  not  exceed  65°  until  the  trees  are  fairly  in  growth.  The  top 
heat  may  be  50°  to  55°  at  night,  and  65°  by  day,  the  trees  and  house 
being  damped  in  the  morning  of  fine  days,  and  again  in  the  afternoon, 
but  it  must  be  done  sufficiently  early  to  allow  of  the  trees  getting  fairly 
dry  before  night.  Water  must  be  given  at  the  roots  to  render  the  soil 
evenly  moist,  supplying  it  at  the  same  temperature  as  that  of  the  heat 
about  the  pots;  but  avoid  overwatoring  or  a  wet  condition  of  the  soil,  as 
that  neither  favours  root  formation  nor  a  sturdy  development.  Also 
avoid  a  close  moist  atmosphere  ;  the  moisture  arising  from  the  fermenting 
material,  with  an  occasional  damping  of  the  paths  and  walls,  will  be 
sufficient  in  dull  weather. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees,  -  The  earliest  house  should  be  closed 
in  December  to  have  ripe  Figs  in  May.  Where,  how’ever,  the  earliest 
Figs  are  obtained  from  trees  in  pots,  starting  the  trees  in  borders  may  be 
deferred  until  the  new  year,  so  a.s  to  afford  a  succession.  Planted-out 
trees,  even  with  the  roots  confined  (as  they  should  be  for  early  forcing) 
to  narrow  inside  borders,  will  not  ripen  the  fruit  so  early  as  trees  in  pots 
with  the  aid  of  bottom  heat,  hence  if  started  at  the  same  time  they  will 
afford  a  close  succession  to  that  from  the  trees  in  pots.  The  trees  having 
been  pruned  and  dressed  with  an  insecticide,  the  house  thoroughly 
cleansed  and  the  border  top-dressed,  attention  must  be  given  to  the 
moisture  of  the  border.  Assuming  the  soil  has  become  dry,  apply  water 
in  a  tepid  state  to  the  roots  at  frequent  intervals  until  the  soil  is  thoroughly 
moistened,  but  not  made  sodden  by  over-supplies.  In  the  matter  of 
temperature  proceed  as  for  the  house  with  trees  in  pots. 
Succession  Houses. — Prune  the  trees  when  the  foliage  has  fallen.  Shoots 
which  have  reached  the  limit  of  the  trellis  must  be  cut  back  to  where  the 
succeeding  shoots  start  in  order  that  they  may  occupy  their  places  in  the 
ensuing- season.  Cut  away  all  elongated  spurs,  reserving,  however,  as 
there  is  room,  a  few  of  those  which  are  short-jointed  and  fruitful.  Loosen 
the  trees  from  the  trellis,  thoroughly  cleanse  the  woodwork  with  soap  and 
water,  the  glass  with  clear  water,  limewmsh  the  walls,  adding  a  little 
sulphur,  and  wash  the  trees  with  soapy  water,  afterwards  dressing  them 
with  some  approved  insecticide,  avoiding,  however,  those  containing  sub¬ 
stances  injurious  to  the  bark.  Tie  the  trees  to  the  trellis,  leaving  suffi¬ 
cient  space  in  the  ligatures  for  the  swelling  of  the  branches.  Iflghtly 
point  the  border,  remove  the. loose  material,  supply  fresh  loam  with  a 
sprinkling  of  bonemeal,  and  scatter  a  few  sweetened  horse-droppings  on 
the  surface.  Ventilate  freely  in  mild  weather,  only  closing  when  frost 
prevails. 
